TRAVELS' 



FROM OCCIDENT TO ORIENT AND 
AROUND THE WORLD 



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■^VKV'1 



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NORTH AMERICA, JAPAN, CHINA, INDIA 
EGYPT AND EUROPE 




Book_E±4L- 

Copyright N° 



COPYR[GHT DEPOSIT. 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



Where It May Be Found 

On every railroad train, botli in Europe and the United States. 

On every passenger steamer of importance between the United States and Europe, Asia, 
AustraUa, India and Africa. 

IT WILL BE FOUND AT EVERY AMERICAN CONSULATE AROUND THE 
WORLD. 

In the principal hotels of the following cities : New York, Washington, New Orleans, 
Philadelphia, St. Louis, Chicago, St. Paul, Denver, Seattle, Portland, San Francisco, Los An- 
geles, Honolulu, Yokohama, Tokyo, Kobe, Nagasaki, Shanghai, Hankow, Peking Tientsin, 
Hongkong, Canton, Manila, Saigon, Bangkok, Singapore, Batavia, Penang, Rangoon, Calcutta, 
Boniba}'', Madras, Colombo, Cairo, Naples, Genoa, Constantinople, Marseilles, Paris, Hamburg, 
Bremen, Amsterdam, London, Edinburgh, Dover, Southampton and Liverpool. 

NOTICE — Business firms, hotel proprietors, steamship owners, and others interested in 
advertising their business, are earnestly requested to offer any suggestion which will improve 
this guide from year to year. 

THIS GUIDE WILL BE PUBLISHED ANNUALLY ON THE FIRST OF EACH 
YEAR, AND DISTRIBUTED GRATIS AT ALL PLACES ABOVE MENTIONED. 




TYPE OF ORIENTAL WOMAN 



FROM OCCIDENT TO ORIENT 
AND AROUND THE WORLD 



OR 



FROM GRANDEURS OF THE WEST 
TO MYSTERIES OF THE EAST 



DESCRIPTIVE OF 

UNITED STATES, HONOLULU, JAPAN, CHINA. PHILIPPINE ISLANDS 

COCHIN CHINA, SIAM, STRAITS SETTLEMENTS, ISLAND 

OF JAVA, BURMAH. INDIA, CEYLON 

EGYPT, EUROPE, ETC. 



BY 

CHARLTON B. PERKINS 

M 
Author of "Across the Pacific on U. S. Monitor 'Monadnock,' 
"Chinese Tortures," Etc. 



THE CHARLTON B. PERKINS COMPANY 

PUBLISHERS 

505 PEARL STREET. NEW YORK CITY 






JLiBRAfiYofCONGBEaS 
Two Ooplcs Heceived 

DEC 3 I90f 
I OonjfileM Entry 

ASS la, XXC, No, 

' COPY a/ » 



Copyright, 1907, by 

The Charlton B. Perkins Co 

New York City 



V/VNKOOP MALLENBEOK OFIAWFORO CO., NEW YORK. 



INDEX TO CONTENTS 



Page 
Travel 9 

AMERICA. 

Niagara Falls 12 

Yellowstone Park 13 

Seattle 17 

Vancouver, B. C 19 

San Francisco 20 

San Francisco Earthquake 23 

Departure for across the Sea 25 

Hawaiian Islands z'j 

Honolulu 28 

W'estward-Ho 30 

JAPAN. 

Miscellaneous Information Z2> 

Yokohama 36 

Tokyo 40 

Nikko 42 

Kyoto ; . . . 44' 

Osaka .' . . . 45 

Kobe .;,.'.■. '46 

Inland Sea of Japan 47 

Nagasaki <-;.—* vIq . 

Constitution and Government 51 

Russo-Japanese War and Portsmouth Treaty 52 

CHINA. 

China. Reigning Sovereign and Family 95 

Shanghai, New York of the Far East 55 

Hankow ■/■] 

Peking 85 

Great M'all 90 

Western Tombs 91 

Tientsin g 1 

Shanhaikwan 94 

Chef 00 94 

Tsingtau 95 

Trade and Industry 97 

The New China 98 

Hongkong loi 

Macao 123 

Canton 125 

A\'uchow 132 

PHILIPPINE ISLANDS. 

Manila 134 

Philippines 147 

COCHIN CHINA. 

Saigon 150 

Annam, Cambodia and Tonking 152 

SIAM. 

Bangkok 152 

Government and Ruling Power 155 

STRAITS SETTLEMENTS. 

Singapore 157 

Johore, Kingdom of 161 

ISLAND OF JAVA. 

Batavia 171 

Buitenzorg 179 

Djokjakarta 181 

Surabaya ■ 183 



Page 
ISLAND OF PENANG. 
Penang 185 

BURMA. 
Rangoon 187 

INDIA. 

Calcutta 194 

Darjeeling 201 

Benares 204 

Allahabad 206 

Cawnpore 207 

Lucknow 208 

Agra 209 

Delhi ' . . 211 

Bombay ., 213 

Madras ." 217 

Trichinopoly 219 

Tiladura . ; 220 

Tuti£orin 221 

;. -:;.-' _ .^ CEYLON. 

Colombo 222 

Government and Descriptive 227 

ARABIA. 

Aden and Red Sea 229 

Port Abraham and Suez Canal 230 

Port Said 232 

Jerusalem 235 

EGYPT. 

Cairo 232 

Alexandria 233 

The Pyramids 234 

M I S CELL AN EOU S. 

Athens and Constantinople 236 

The Far East, Departure from 237 

Naples, Italy 237 

Paris, France, and London, England 240 

Homeward Bound and New York City 244 

GENER.\L INFORMATION. 

Leading Hotels Around the World 25S 

\'alue of Foreign Coins 263 

Largest Cities in the World 264 

Principal Post Routes of the World 261 

Distances Between Principal Cities in Europe 262 

Cost of Cablegrams from China 262 

Inhabitants of the Earth by Continents 262 

Tickets 253 

Letters of Credit 253 

Baggage 253 

Purchase of Curios 254 

Passports 254 ' 

Travel in India 253 

Sleeping Car Rates in the L^nited States 256 

United States Custom Regulations 256 

Difference of Time 257 



Introductory. 



■"The man who gleans his all from books 
May gain a knowledge great ; 
But the man who learns by travel, 
Is the one who is up-to-date." 

TRAVEL is the key that unlocks Nature's heart and reveals her secrets ; and, when ac- 
companied by a keen and close observation, becomes one of man's highest accomplish- 
ments. 

It is a commendable and peculiar characteristic of human nature, as betrayed in the 
Western mind : the desire to gain all possible knowledge of the present-day civilization of the 
world, as well as of the past of the people — their vices, their virtues, their customs and their 
religions, their victories and their defeats. Though millions have crossed the Atlantic to 
visit the scenes of the Old ^^'orld, to the average traveler fexcept in verj' recent years) the 
mysteries of Asia have remained untraversed and are practically unknown. 

This lurid Orient, with its mystic lands, has stood sponsor, during centuries of slow ad- 
vancement, for the most remarkable epochs in the annals of the world's history; it has been 
the mother of invention, of highly accomplished arts, education, and the cradle of the great 
religions of Mohammed and Buddha. Every object your eyes rest upon within the confines 
of this vast continent is shrouded in mystery and associated with events of the most profound 
interest. 

Not all the interesting sights are to be found in the land of our nativity. Each country 
and each race has its own peculiar and dominant characteristics. The histories, i. e., the lives 
of nations, are very similar to those of men, except in point of duration. Nations rise, gen- 
erally, by some social upheaval, live their allotted time, and are no more, save as in resur- 
rection by the pen of the historian. The exact facts concerning ancient Syria are practically 
myths to-day. Egypt has for centuries remained an unopened and unexplored secret. Greece 
and Rome have yielded to modern research a little knowledge of past glories, but not to the 
extent the student might desire. Our knowledge of the ancient history of the Western 
Hemisphere is deplorably incomplete, and a few centuries carry us back to the legendary 
myths of Europe concerning it. The conditions existing in the New World prior to its dis- 
covery in 1492 are, in a large measure, matters of conjecture. If this applies to the Western 
World, what a vista for thought and speculation does the Eastern Hemisphere present — 
shrouded deep in the mysteries of untold centuries of profound isolation. And of China this 
is particularly true : it is without doubt the most absorbingly interesting country in the world 
to-day, holding in the hollow of its hand undreamed-of possibilities of greatness to come. 

This book claims no literary merit ; it is placed before the prospective traveler to the 
Orient and around the world, intended to supply him all the accurate information necessary 
for a thorough visit to the various places of note ; special mention being made of the inter- 
esting features of Asia, and how best to see it traveling by way of anj^ of the several steam- 
ship lines maintaining a regular service to that part of the world, both from the Pacific and 
Atlantic seaboards. 

C. B. P. 



FROM OCCIDENT TO ORIENT AND 
AROUND THE WORLD 



Travel 



THE paramount object of all pleasure travel 
is to see, feel and experience something 
new, to enlarge one's observations, to re- 
ceive new sensations, to accjuire worldly knowl- 
edge ; and to gain all this it is necessary to 
travel in those sections of the world where an 
ever-varying' panorama opens to the view. Dur- 
ing this "hurry-up" period of the twentieth 
century, the age of rapid and highly-improved 



floating palace, as in some Arabian Nights' 
fable, conveys the voyager across the Pacific or 
the Atlantic Ocean, and ere long reveals to him 
the wondrous charm of distant and strange 
lands. 

Many have ridden upon the back of a strong- 
limbed horse, or traveled across country in rail- 
way' trains surrounded by every luxury and con- 
venience ; but in this age of marvelous maritime 




THE NEW WHITE STAR STEAMSHIP ADRIATIC, WHICH HAS ACCOMMODATIONS FOR 3,000 PERSONS 
The new Atlantic Liner "Adriatic," wliich has just completed her maiden trip, is the latest and largest 
of the great fleet of vessels which the enterprise of The White Star Line has added to the transoceanic 
service. She is 725 feet 9 inches long, 75 feet 6 inches beam, and about 50 feet deep; her gross tonnage is 
nearly 25,000, and she displaces over 40,000 tons. The ship has no less than nine steel decks. Some of 
the special features included in her c<?nstruction are a fully equipped gymnasium, a Turkish bath, and an 
electric elevator which operates through four decks. 



methods of sea transportation, it has been made 
possible for one to visit the most remote and 
inaccessible parts of the known world in great 
comfort and luxury; trips which a few years ago 
were fraught with great hardships and dangers, 
which but few could endure, are to-day a pleas- 
urable pastime — something to anticipate, to de- 
light in. 

Time has practically been annihilated and 
space minimized ; the day of the old, slow, 
clipper sailing vessel is happily past, and now a 



achievement how comparatively few have trav- 
eled out over the trackless ocean on the mag- 
nificent steamships of the present day. 

These ships are well termed floating palaces ; 
they are like home in comfort, and a modern 
hotel in appointment, including' all the delicacies 
that satisfy the most fastidious taste; with cozy 
beds and whitest of linen, running hot and cold 
water, electric lights, telephones, call bells, gym- 
nasium, swimming pools, Turkish baths, ele- 
vators, restaurants, barbers and manicures. 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



Throughout the ships may be found cozy cor- 
ners, reading rooms, writing rooms supplied 
with finest of stationery, smoking rooms, and 




TWIN-SCREW STEAMSHIP DEUTSCHLAND 
Hamburg-American Line 



hbraries containing thousand of volumes, and 
replete with standard works of fiction, science, 
history and travel. 

It is no exaggeration to state that the mod- 
ern passenger steamers are the fulfilment of in- 
ventive genius in ocean 
transportation, and the 
comparatively cheap 
rates have placed that 
delightful experience , of 
crossing the deep''- seas 
within the reach of all, 
even though blessed with 
but moderate means. 
Physicians universally 
agree that the only efifec- 
tive and efficient remedy 
for rehabilitating and re- 
newing the broken-down 
system, the result of 
over-prolonged labor, 
over-anxiety, or the all- 
too-strenuous life, is a 
voyage at sea, where one 
may inhale the pure, 
healthful, salt air, and 
recuperate in short or- 
der. There is ever a 
certain indefinable at- 
mosphere attendant up- 
on an ocean trip, never experienced elsewhere, 
that enables one to lay aside for the time 
being all cares and worries, and give way 
to the glorious freedom of one's surroundings. 



Modern invention, guarded by experience and 
practice, tempered with keen observation as to 
best requirements, has brought ships as near a 

condition of abso- 
lute safety as hu- 
man ingenuity can 
devise. Now all 
vessels are built 
with twin screws, 
numerous water- 
tight bulkheads, 
and a double steel 
b o 1 1 o m, all of 
which tend to 
greatly reduce the 
dangers of a sea 
voyage. One of 
these double bot- 
toms might be in- 
jured, or even de- 
stroyed, yet the ship 
would float with 
ease. Other safe- 
guards are pro- 
vided, and each 
year witnesses new 
additions applied 

for the protection 

and safety of passengers. Few people can realize 
the amount of thought and labor necessary, the 
care embodied, and the means of handling the 
food supply essential for a sea trip. 

One can form only a vague idea as to the 





.\ilEKR".\.\ UXE STEAMSHIP ST. PAUL 



extent of the magnificent refrigerating plants and 
ice machines, installed for the preservation of 
tons of meats, vegetables and perishable fruits. 
The menu on board the leviathans of tiie 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



deep leaves nothing to be desired. In addi- 
tion to the sumptuous meals served at regular 
hours in the dining-room, you may have 
brought to you on deck 
chicken broth at ii 
A. M., tea at 4 p. m., or 
you may have coffee 
and oranges during the 
early morning, and at 
10 p. M. tea and cakes 
if so wished. 

As the trend of 
civilization has ever 
been WESTWARD, 
the endeavor is here 
made in shadowy out- 
line to give a brief de- 
scription of the six- 
teen countries possible 
to visit while follow- 
ing the beaten track 
WESTWARD, 
around the World 
from Broadway. 

It is a recognized 
fact that where there is 
mystery, there is ever 
charm, and in distant 
Asia, especially China, 
■enough abounds to 
keep one charmed for 
an entire lifetime. Of 

China, Siam, Java, Japan, Cochin China, the 
Philippines. Burma and India, it may well be 
said that they are one vast treasure-trove for the 



measure the student, the pleasure-seeker, the 
scientist or the sage ; all of whom, and including 
the ever-present missionary, and even the invad- 





T\\"IN-SCRE\V CRUISING STEAMSHIPS MOLTKE AND BLUrHER 
Hamburg-Ajinerican Line 



traveler,' antiquarian or student ; filled, so to say, 
to the very brim by Mother Nature and the hand 
of man with scenes and objects for observation, 
study or pleasure, sufficient to satisfy in full 



STEAMSHIP KAISER WILHELM II 
German Mail, Atlantic Service 

ing armies of the International Powers, have 
traversed China's boundless fields and covered 
her vast territory — yet the Celestial Empire re- 
mains securely 
veiled to the West- 
ern mind and eye. 
The entire Far 
East is one huge 
emporium of 
strange sights and 
still stranger people 
and customs. 
Everywhere the 
eye beholds the 
mark of antiquity. 
Asia can, and does 
reveal more of real 
interest in a shorter 
time than all the 
world combined. 

Leaving N e w 
York City — the 
commercial m e - 
tropolis of the 
world — the trav- 
eler can choose any 
one of several transcontinental railwaj's leading 
westward to the Pacific Coast, all of which have 
perfect service and are maintained at the highest 
standard. 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



N 



lagara 



Fall: 



THERE are many points en route well 
worthy the extra time spent in viewing 
them. The mighty falls of Niagara River, 
one of the greatest scenic attractions of the 
world, are visited every year by thousands of 
tourists. Possibly the most remarkable feature 
of Niagara, aside from its wonderful scenic 
beauty, is the immense volume of water passing 
over, amounting to 28,000 cubic feet per second. 
The water plunges from a height of 160 feet, 
though the river has a total descent of 112 feet. 
The grandeur of this green flood pouring into 
an abyss where it is half lest in the masses of 




NIAGARA FALLS 
On Line of New York Central Railway 

ascending mist can be realized only by personal 
observation. Sight-seeing there has been greatly 
facilitated in recent years, and since 1885 visitors 
are protected from impositions formerly prac- 
tised by conversion of the land on both sides of 
the Falls into public parks. The New York 
State Reservation contains 107 acres, and Queen 
Victoria Niagara Falls Park on the Canadian 
side 154 acres. Since these banks became gov- 
ernment property, the mean, industrial structures 
that marred their outline have been torn down, 
and the wonderful spectacle may be enjoyed at 
leisure from shady avenues, artificial platforms, 
and other advantageous points of view. Trains 



passing along the Canadian side halt a few min- 
utes to give passengers a glimpse of the vast 
sheet of water curving over Horseshoe Falls. 
An electric trolley line has been built through 
the gorge along the brink of the river on the 
American side, connecting by the Queenstown 
bridge with the electric line skirting the Cana- 
dian heights along the gorge, and extending past 
the Horseshoe Falls to Chippewa; a railroad 
also skirts the United States edge of the gorge, 
so that visitors can see its entire length and take 
in the terrific features of the rapids and the 
whirlpool. Many visitors enter the Cave of the 
Winds, approach the falls on the steamer "Maid 
of the Mist," or enjoy the superb general view 
from the middle of the upper arch bridge or the 
high terrace below the Horseshoe Falls on the 
Canadian bank. 

About a half mile above the brink of the falls, 
(loat Island divides the river into two unequal 
streams, the one on the American side being 
comparatively shallow and narrow, and dis- 
charging over the American Falls ; while most 
of the larger part of the river swings around to 
the left of Goat Island and discharges over the 
Horseshoe or Canadian Falls. The resemblance 
in outline of these falls to' a horseshoe has been 
destroyed by the more rapid recession of the 
central part of the cataract edge. The American 
Falls are 1,060 feet wide, and the water is very 
sl'.allow as it plunges over the edge, falling 167 
feet. The Horseshoe Falls have a total width of 
3,010 feet, measured along the curve, or 1,230 
across the chord, a maximum estimated depth 
of 20 feet, and a vertical height of 158 feet. As 
the water is derived from the immense reservoir 
of the lakes, there is little variation in the quan- 
tity, the difiference in volume depending not so 
much upon precipitation as upon the strong 
winds that slightly retard or accelerate the move- 
ment of the surface waters of Lake Erie to the 
mouth of the river. The normal flow cr\'er the 
cataract is about 500,000 tons per minute. 

It is only in recent years that important at- 
tempts have been made to utilize the energ}' of 
Niagara Falls for industrial purposes. The 
largest plant is that of a power company which 
generates electricity by leading water through a 
canal from above the falls to a wheel-pit in 
which are turbines ; the water discharging 
through a tunnel into the river below the falls. 
Many industries at the falls are using its elec- 
tricity, and the City of Buffalo, 22 miles distant, 
utilizes it for its city railroads and other power 
purposes. Over three-fourths of the power gen- 
erated, however, is consumed in the neighbor- 
hood of the falls. 



12 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



Yellowstone Park 



How strange it seems, but nevertheless true 
to a great extent, that the people of the 
United States are willing to believe the 
greatest scenic beauty and natural wonders are 
to be found in foreign lands, instead of in our 
own country ; and thousands travel annually to 
Switzerland to view the Jungfrau or the Mat- 
terhorn. Go where you will — Switzerland, Scot- 
land, Spain, to the plateaus of Tibet overlooking 
the monarchs of the Himalayas, or elsewhere in 
this great world, and you cannot see more 
beautiful, diversified scenery than the rugged 
mountains of Yellowstone Park. Here in the 
deep recesses of the mountains, wonderfully re- 
mote from the beaten paths of travel, lies a 
region so far beyond what man, unseeing, can 
form a conception of, that when beheld he 
stands aghast, bewildered, awed. It is here in 
nature's wonderland that one marvel is piled 



upon another, and to describe them the English 
language is completely inadequate. 

Easily accessible by the "Northern Pacific 
Railway," and a convenient trip from any por- 
tion of the United States, this wonderful Na- 
tional Park positively excels anything of its 
kind in the world. 

h'or an exhibition of beautiful and grand vol- 
canic force this region has not been equaled 
since the destruction by a volcanic eruption of 
the White Terrace in New Zealand. The won- 
der of this section lies in its number of minor 
objects of interest, as cliffs of obsidian, or vol- 
canic glass, along the shore of Beaver Lake ; the 
petrified forests found on some of the plateaus ; 
the curious freaks of erosion seen in the mush- 
room-shaped pillars of the "Hoodoo Region," 
and in the natural bridge spanning one of the 
creeks flowing into Yellowstone Lake. 



Yellowstone Lake and Canon 



THE Yellowstone River enters the park at 
its southeastern corner in a marshy valley, 
and flows almost immediately into the 
southeastern arm of Yellowstone Lake. The 
lake lies at an altitude of 7,741 feet above sea 
level, being the largest of that altitude in North 
America, and one of the most beautiful moun- 
tain lakes in the world. Ancient beaches indicate 
that the lake was formerly much larger and 
deeper than now, and that instead of discharging 
into the Yellowstone River and the Atlantic 
Ocean, it formerly sent its waters to the Pacific 
Ocean. After leaving' the lake at the northern 
end, the river is broad and tranquil for several 
miles ; then becomes narrow, rapid, and broken 
by huge rocks ; and, after turning to the north- 
east, it falls over a precipice no feet high, and 
is narrowed to a width of 100 feet. A half mile 
below this cataract, known as the Upper Falls, 
the river plunges again over a ledge of trachyte, 
and falls 310 feet into the Grand Canon. Here 
it rushes for 20 miles as an emerald green, foam- 
ing stream, shut in by precipitous, or exceed- 
ingly steep walls of lava, 1,200 to 1,500 feet 
high, which are brightly colored with red, green 
and yellow incrustations, and crowned by dark 
green spruces above. 

The largest and deepest is the Grand Canon, 
where the Colorado cuts through the Kaibab and 
Unikaret plateaus, 7,000 to 9,000 feet high, in 
the northern part of Arizona. The caiion is five 
to six miles wide at the top and 5,000 to 6,000 



deep, falling in several successive escarpments, 
indicating pauses in the upheaval of the plateau. 
In the middle is the narrow and gloomy cafion 
proper, with a sheer precipitous depth of 2,000 
to 3,000 feet, at the bottom of which rushes the 
river. 

Rudyard Kipling, writing of the Grand 
Canon of the Yellowstone, says : "The sides of 
that gulf were one wild welter of color — crim- 
son, cobalt, ochre, amber, honey splashed with 
port wine, snow-white, vermilion, lemon, and 
silver gray, in wide washes. So far below that 
no sound of its strife could reach us, the Yellow- 
stone River ran — a finger-wide strip of jade 
green. The sunlight took these wondrous walls 
and gave them fresh hues to those nature had 
already laid there. Once I saw the dawn break 
over a lake in Rajputana, and the sun set over 
the Oodney Sagar amid a circle of Holman Hunt 
Hills. This time I watched both performances 
going on below me, upside down, yoti under- 
stand — and the colors were real. The cafion 
was burning like Troy town ; but it would burn 
forever, and, thank goodness, neither pen nor 
brush could ever portray its splendor adequately. 
Evening crept through the pines that sheltered 
and shadowed us, but the full glow of the day 
flamed in that cafion as we went out, very cau- 
tiously, to a jutting piece of rock — blood red or 
pink it was — that overhung the deepest of all. 
Now I know what it is to sit enthroned amid the 
clouds of sunset." 



13 



Froi 



Occident to Orient and Around the U'orld 




Dr. Talmage, the famous divine, 'wrote 
in the following words : "But the most 
wonderful part of this American Continent 
is the Yellowstone Park. After all poetry 
has exhausted itself, and all the Morans 
and Bierstandts and the other enchanting 
artists have completed their canvas, there 
will be other revelations to make, and other 
stories of its beauty and wrath, splendor 
and agony to be recited — that peroration 
of all majesty — and grandeur — the Grand 
Canon. It is here that it seems to me — 
and I speak it with reverence — Jehovah 
seems to have surpassed himself. It seems 
a great gulch let down into the eternities. 
Here hung up and let down, and spread 
abroad, are all the colors of the land, and 
sea, and sky ; upholstering of the Lord 
God Almighty ; best work of the Archi- 
tects of the worlds ; sculpturing by the In- 
finite ; masonry by an Omnipotent trowel. 

"What a hall this would be for the last 
judgment. See that mighty cascade with 
the rainbow at the foot of it. If these 
waters congealed and transfixed with the 
agitations of the day, what a place they 
would make for the shining feet of a judge 
of the quick and dead ; and those rainbows 
look like the crowns to be cast at his feet. 
At the bottom of this great caiion is a floor 
on which the nations of the earth might stand, 
and all up and down these galleries of the rocks 




LOWER FALLS — GRAND CANON OF THE YELLOWSTONE 
On Line of Northern Pacific Railroad ' 

the nations of the heaven might sit, with ample 
room and freedom." 



14 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



Hot Springs and Geysers 

SPRINGS of all kinds abound throughout are the hot springs due to volcanic heat stilt 

the park; countless springs of pure, cold present beneath the surface. There are hot 

water and some cold mineral springs, but springs everywhere ; in the valleys and on the 

the peculiar feature for which the park is famous mountain summits, on the plateaus, at the bot- 




GRAND CANON 
On Line of Xorthern Pacific Railroad 

15 



From Occident to Orient and Around the JVorld 



toms of and on the sides of canons,, and even at 
the bottoms of the rivers and lakes. They range 




CREVASSE IN SPEREY GLACIER 
Along Line o£ Great Northern Railway in Montana 

in size from a few square inches to several acres, 
and most of them are highly charged with min- 



eral matter, mostly silicious, while many emit 
sulphurous fumes, and some are distinctly 
poisonous. Of the non-eruptive type, the 
most famous are the ]\Iammoth Hot 
Springs, situated near the northern en- 
trance to the park. 

There are over seventy eruptive hot 
springs, or geysers, in the park, among 
them being the largest geysers in the 
world. Most of the geysers are irregular 
in their periods of eruption, Old Faithful 
being perhaps the only one of which safe 
predictions can be made. 

The great geysers found here, besides 
Old Faithful which still continues its 
eruptions with the same regularity, are 
the Giant and Giantess, Lion and Lioness, 
Grand, Beehive, Castle, Splendid and 
Riverside. Besides these there are lesser 
ones as to eruptions, but not less inter- 
esting as geysers. Such are the Eco- 
nomic, Sawmill. Turban, Fan and Ob- 
long. Many of these can be seen from 
the Old Faithful Inn, and at night a 
monster searchlight is turned on Old 
Faithful and any other geysers that may be play- 
ing. The effect is beautiful in the extreme. 



Government of the Park 



THE park is under the sole jurisdiction of 
the Federal Government, and is adminis- 
tered by the Secretary of the Interior. It 
is directly in charge of a superintendent, an army 
officer, who is aided by a detach- 
ment of Federal troops in enforc- 
ing regulations. Hunting, trap- 
ping, or killing any animals, ex- 
cept to prevent it from doing 
serious injury, is prohibited; but 
fishing for pleasure or food is 
permitted. All private commer- 
cial enterprises are excluded, ex- 
cept that small plots of land may 
be leased to private parties for 
hotel purposes, and all hotels 
thus conducted by the lessee are 
placed under Government inspec- 
tion. Good carriage roads now 
give access to the principal 
places, and a small steamboat 
plies the Yellowstone Lake. The 
park as yet is only accessible to 
visitors at two places : through 
the valley of the Yellowstone 
River on the north, where a 
branch of the Northern Pacific 
Railway has a terminus just outside the entrance 
and through the Madison Valley on the west 



The park was established in 1872. Subse- 
quently a Forest Reserve was added on the east 
and south sides. The park proper is about sixty- 
two miles long from north to south, fiftv-four 




LAKE Mcdonald 
Along Great Northern Railway 

miles wide, and has an area of 3.312 square 
miles. 



16 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



Seattle 



THE largest city of the State of Washington, 
and county seat of King County, is Seattle, 
situated at the head of Puget Sound (one 
of the most beautiful sheets of water imag- 
inable), 864 miles by water north of San 
Francisco, Cal., and 185 miles by rail north of 
Portland, Ore. It is a terminal point for the 
Great Northern Railway, the Northern Pacific 
and Canadian Pacific ; the last named using the 
tracks of the Northern Pacific for its entry into 
the city. The transportation facilities by water, 
too, are excellent, it being the terminal for sev- 
eral transpacific steamship lines, the most im- 



ships. Add to this the height of the various 
decks, and the total depth from keel to the upper 
navigation bridge will average 88 feet 4 inches. 
The total dead-weight capacity is 23,000 tons, 
with a cubical capacity of 28,000 tons. Each 
vessel can carry over 2,000 people, including 250 
cabin passengers. These figures convey but an 
imperfect idea of their great size. On their first 
trip to the Orient each one carried sufficient 
cargo to make a hundred railway train-loads of 
twenty-five cars each, or a single train seven 
miles long. 

The Great Northern Steamship Company 




STREET SCENE, SEATTLE, WASHINGTON 
Western Terminus of Great Northern Railway 



portant of which is the "Great Northern Steam- 
ship Company," operating its magnificent 
steamers, the Minnesota and Dakota, between 
Seattle and Hongkong, calling at all principal 
ports both in China and Japan. These giant 
vessels are the largest cargo-carriers in the 
world, having' safeguards and facilities for pas- 
senger traiific which give them a unique place 
among the greatest liners. They are 630 feet 
in length, 73 feet 6 inches in beam, and 56 feet 
deep from the keel to the saloon deck amid- 



operates its vessels upon a schedule of sailings 
alternating' with the sailings of the vessels be- 
longing to the Nippon Yusen Kaisha (Japanese 
Steamship Company) and the Northern Pacific, 
making a total fleet of eight steamers dispatched 
every ten days to the Orient. 

Owing to the spherical shape of the earth, the 
shortest distance between any two places on its 
surface is the arc of a great circle connecting 
the two points, therefore it will be readily seen 
that the steamship companies plying between 



17 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



Seattle and the Orient enjoy a shorter route than 
any other by over 1,200 miles. 

Seattle has a population of over 150,000 souls. 
Its only rival city on the Pacific coast having 
been destroyed by a disastrous earthquake and 
fire, its future success is now a certainty, and 
within a few short years the promises are that it 
will become one of the greatest and most im- 
portant cities in the United States. Lying upon 
the shores of a natural, deep-water harbor, in 
close proximity to the Alaskan country, and 
affording the 'shortest route to the Orient, it has 
developed into an up-to-date and progressive 
city, filled with wealth and new energy, that will 
one day stai"tle the world by its rapid growth. 

Seattle is mag- 



nificently situated 
midway between 
the Cascade- and 
Coast Ranges, with 
Puget Sound in 
front and Lake 
Washington at its 
rear: Green and 
Union Lakes are 
within the munici- 
pal limits, and Du- 
w a m i s h River 
flows through the 
city. The business 
quarter occupies 
the lower level, 
near the river and 
sea. Planks, gravel, 
macadam, asphalt, 
wooden blocks and 
vitrified brick con- 
stitute the paving- 
material of the 
more important ■ 
thoroughfares. The 
water supply of this '^ 
wide-awake city is 
owned by its 
people, and is ob- 
tained from a 
mountainous 
stream, fed by melting snow, and delivered by 
gravity into a reservoir 412 feet above the" water 
level. It has its own municipal, lighting-power 
plant of 7,500 horse-power. Five railways enter 
the city, and the two transcontinental railroads 
have just completed a modern granite and steel 
depot costing over a half million dollars. ' 
.• The scenic beauty of the surrounding country 
is exceptionally fine. The city, in the center of a 
large amphitheater, is surrounded on all sides by 
lofty and imposing mountains, several of which 
show white caps of snow the year around. The 
city is surrounded and intercepted with beauti- 
ful and extensive parks, chief among which are 
the Denny and Kinnear, Lincoln, Volunteer, 




GREAT NORTHERN STEAMSHIP MINNESOTA 



Woodland and Washington. The annual appro- 
priation for the maintenance of parks is about 
$60,000. 

The principal buildings comprise the City 
Hall, County Courthouse, the High School, 
Providence Hospital, and the seven buildings of 
the University of Washington. The Federal 
Government has purchased land costing $150,- 
000, on which to erect a $750,000 structure for 
its various departments. A public library 
($200,000), the gift of Andrew Carnegie, oc- 
cupies a prominent site acquired by the city at a 
cost of $100,000, and contains 40,000 volumes. 

Commercially and industrially, Seattle is one 
of the foremost cities of the Pacific coast, hav- 
ing valuable fish- 
eries, a surround- 
ing region rich in 
timber, minerals 
and agricultural re- 
sources. The open- 
ing of the Alaskan 
gold fields, for 
which the city is a 
sailing point, and 
the development of 
trade with the Ori- 
ent, especially the 
Philippines since 
the Spanish- Ameri- 
can War, have con- 
tributed to its re- 
markable growth, 
which has almost 
doubled in ten 
years. Since the 
discovery of gold 
in Alaska over 
$140,000,000 worth 
has been taken 
from its mines, and 
of this a m o u n t 
more than $100,- 
000,000 has passed 
in and out of the 
Government Assay 
Office in Seattle ; 
gone into the busi- 
adding to its pros- 



and 



a large portion has 
ness- arteries, of the city, 
perity. 

The manufacturing interests, too, are of vast 
importance. In 1906, $20,132,000 capital was in- 
vested in various industries, which aggregated a 
production valued approximately at $56,373,000. 
The manufacture, of .lumber, foundry and 
machine-shop products and bridge work, slaugh- 
tering and meat packing, flour milling, fish can- 
ning and preserving, ship and boat building, 
roasting and grinding of coffee and spices, bot- 
tling,'' 'and the' manufacture of confectionery, 
dairy products, furniture and carriages are the 
leaiding industries. 



iS 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



Vancouver, B. C. 



SEATTLE by no means enjoys a monopoly 
of the transpacific passenger and freight 
traffic, for, just over the border, in Canada, 
is situated the largest city of British Columbia, 
Vancouver, the western terminal of the Cana- 
dian Pacific Steamship Company, operating a 
line of six steamers across the Pacific to Hong- 
kong. 

The latter is a very important mail line, liber- 
ally supported by the Canadian and British Gov- 
ernments, not only because of its efficient mail 
service, but also as a military highway enabling 
England to reach her Far Eastern possessions. 

Recently the com- 
pany placed two 
new, modern pas- 
senger steamers. 
Empress of Britain 
and Empress of 
Ireland, on the run 
between Liverpool 
and Quebec, con- 
necting with "its 
t r a n s c o n t i n e n tal 
railway ; thereby 
establishing a regu- 
lar fortnightly ser- 
vice from Liver- 
pool to Hongkong. 
Thus the longest 
line in the world 
under one flag — 
with trains and 
steamers forming" a direct course 
Britain to China, 12,000 miles — is 



cheaper rates, as for tourist excursions and ac- 
commodations, which vary at different times and 
seasons. 

The schedule of fares on the Empress of India, 
Empress of China, or Empress of lapan, to 
points across the Pacific ranges as follows : 

Vancouver to Yokohama $200 00 

Vancouver to Kobe 207 00 

Vancouver to Nagasaki 222 50 

Vancouver to Shanghai 225 00 

Vancouver to Hongkong 225 00 

Vancouver to Manila 225 00 

Fares 

mediate 




by inter- 
steamers 
from Vancouver, 
or vice-versa: 



EMPRESS OF CHINA 
Canadian Pacific Steamsliip Company's Pacific Steamer 



from Great 
traversed in 
the remarkably short space of 29 days. 

The Company's steamers across the Pacific, 
Monteagle, Tartar and Athenia, formerly 
equipped for first-cabin passage, are now devoted 
to intermediate passengers. Travelers who do not 
wish to pay the first-class rate will find these 
steamers excellent in service and accommodation. 
. The railway fare from New York to Van- 
couver is approximately $75, Canadian Pacific 
Railway ; Pullman sleeper costing $19. ■ These 
figures represent first-class tickets, but there are 



V^ancouver to 
Yokohama, 

$100 GO 
Vancouver to 
Shanghai, 

$115 00 
\'ancouver to 
Hongkong, 

$115 DO 

The Canadian Pa- 
cific Company like- 
wise operates four 
liners between Vic- 
toria, B. C, and 

B. C. ; Honolulu, 
Fiji ; Brisbane, Queensland and 



calling at Victoria 



Australia 

H. T. ; Suva, 

Sydney; New South Wales 

The four steamers on this nm are high class 
in every respect. 

Fares from Vancouver to Australia : 



Vancouver to Honolulu. 
Vancouver to Suva, Fiji. 
Vancouver to Brisbane. . 
Vancouver to Sydney . . . 
Vancouver to Auckland. 



irst class 


Second 


class 


$75 00 


$45 


00 


200 00 


I GO 


GG 


200 00 


100 


00 


200 00 


lOG 


GG 


200 GO 


IGO 


GO 



19 



From Occident to Orient and Around the IJ^orld 



Information Concerning San Francisco 

THE first settlement was made October 9, 1776, when two Franciscan monks named 
Palan and Cambon established an Indian Mission, called San Francisco de Assisi. 

In 1822 the Mexicans took control of San Francisco, then called Dolores. In 1836 
a small village called Yerba Buena was founded, from which the modern city really developed. 
In 1846 the United States took possession. In 1848 gold was discovered near San Francisco. 

The city was almost completely destroyed by fire on five different occasions: December 
14, 1849, May 4, 1850, June 14, 1850, May 2, 1851, and June 2, 1851 — the property lost aggregating 
a value of $16,000,000. 

The Vigilance Committee was formed in 1851 and again in 1856. The city was incor- 
porated in 1850. An earthquake caused considerable damage October 21, 1868. The first 
railroad reached San Francisco in 1869. 

On April 18, 1906, at 5.13 a.m., a violent earthquake wrecked many buildings, followed by 
a terrific fire which almost entirely ruined the city, and in three days 250,000 inhabitants were 
homeless. An area of five square miles was destroyed, including property valued at $350,- 
000,000, covered by insurance to the extent of $208,000,000. 

STEAMSHIP CONNECTIONS.— San Francisco is the terminal of the Pacific Mail 
Steamship Company, which maintains six luxuriantly equipped steamers departing at regular 
intervals of ten days for China, Japan and Manila. This Company has also a regular service 
to Mexico, South America and Australia. 



RAILROAD COMMUNICATIONS lead to all parts of the United States. 

HOTELS. — The St. Francis, a magnificent twenty-story building, only slightly damaged 
during the fire, is now ready to accommodate the traveling public. Hotel Fairmount, on Nob 
Hill, was opened to the public April 18, 1907. Hotels Jefferson and Majestic offer comfortable 
accommodations to the traveler. 

Distances from San Francisco to the following points: 



Miles 

Yokohama, Japan 4,700 

Honolulu 2,080 

New York 3,270 

Hongkong, via Japan 6,280 

Manila, via China- Japan 6,880 



Miles 

653 

750 

804 

826 

Chicago 2,350 



Portland, Oregon 

Victoria, B. C 

Seattle, Wash. . . 
Tacoma, Wash. . . 



oan 

THE name of San Francisco has become 
memorable on account of the disastrous fire 
and earthquake in April, 1906, which al- 
most laid the city in ashes — a catastrophe ranked 
among the most calamitous events of ancient or 
modern times. From a property valuation the 
estimated loss is placed at $350,000,000 ; but the 
loss from a personal standpoint, representing 
years of toil and accumlation, can never be com- 
puted. 

The following is a description of the city prior 
to the earthquake of 1906: 

San Francisco, the largest and most important 
city of the vast region west of Chicago, and the 
largest on the Pacific Coast of the United States, 
is built on a peninsula, washed by the Pacific 
Ocean on one side and the Bay of San Francisco 
on the other, and occupies a central position on 
the coast line of California. 



rancisco 

The city's land area is 47 square miles. Its 
site is largely hilly, and, viewed from the harbor, 
it presents a most pictureque appearance. The 
part devoted to commerce lies along the shores 
of the bay, and is comparatively level ; but the 
residential districts are on an elevation. The most 
fashionable quarters are those overlooking the 
ocean, bay and town proper. "Nob Hill." upon 
which the millionaires of the city built their pa- 
latial homes, is about 300 feet above the ocean 
level ; and "Pacific Heights" rise still higher. 
The "Twin Peaks," forming a background to the 
leading thoroughfare, are 900 feet high. 

A portion of the site of San Francisco is re- 
claimed from the bay. Some of the most sub- 
stantial structures in the business section are 
reared on piles driven to bed rock through made 
ground, vast areas of sand dunes having been 
leveled in order to conform localities to the street 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



system, which was arbitrarily decided upon with 
little reference to contour. Market Street, a thor- 
oughfare several miles long, and the streets south 
of it, are level ; but those intersecting it from the 
north and west strike boldly at the hills, with 
grades in some instances as high as 50 per cent. 
It is this feature which gives the town its striking 
sky line. From the bay it has the aspect of a 
city with houses piled on top of one another; 
while from points of vantage offered by the hills, 
views of rare beauty may be obtained, embracing 
the ocean, the bay with its islands and active 
commerce, the densely populated districts and 
the distant mountains. 

Its geographical situation on a peninsula across 
which blow the summer trade winds has given 
San Francisco a unique climate. During thirty 
years of observation the lowest temperature re- 
corded was 29° F., and the highest 100°. The 
lowest mean temperature for any month during 
this period was 46°, the highest 65°. The mean 
temperature was lowest in the month of Decem- 
ber, averaging 50°, the highest in September, 
reaching 63°. Semi-tropical plants grow in great 
profusion in the open air throughout the winter. 
During the summer months rain rarely falls, but 
the skies over the city are frequently clouded 
with fog, which sometimes descends in the form 
of mist. The rainfall averages about 21 inches. 
The precipitation usually begins in October and 
ceases in May. The term "rainy season" applies 
to weather conditions in central and southern 
California, and simply means that during certain 
months rain falls, not signifying a season of con- 
tinuous rain. A prominent feature of the climate 
is the regular afternoon winds. 

The thoroughfares throughout the city, with 
the exception of a few small streets on the water 
front, are wide and roomy. Market Street, the 
main artery, starts at the Ferry Building and cuts 
across the town in a southwesterly direction, in- 
tersected on the north side by streets laid out in 
conformity with the cardinal points. This ar- 
rangement has produced irregular blocks at the 
points of crossing, leaving spaces free for the 
erection of monuments. The streets south of 
Market, excepting Mission, which describes a 
lengthened arc, cut each other at right angles. 
The sidewalks are wide in all sections and are 
generally constructed of artificial stone. There 
are in all 750 miles of streets open to travel. Of 
these 104 miles are paved with bituminous rock 
laid on a foundation of concrete ; a large propor- 
tion, however, is paved with blocks of basaltic 
rock laid in sand ; and in some neglected quarters 
cobbles still prevail. 

Market Street at all times offers a scene of ani- 
mation. Some of the largest department stores 
are there located, although the chief shopping 
district is to the north of that thoroughfare, in- 
cluding Kearney, Sutter, Post, Geary and Stock- 
ton Streets and Grant Avenue. Union Square, 



in the same locality, is becoming a fashionable 
shopping center. An extensive system of boule- 
vards furnishes a continuous driveway of nearly 
twenty miles. It starts near the heart of the city> 
traverses the United States Military Reservation 
and Golden Gate Park, skirts the Pacific Ocean 
for two or three miles, and winds in and out 
among the hills lying southwest of the town. 

GOLDEN GATE PARK.— This park con- 
tains more than 1,000 acres and enjoys the dis- 
tinction of having been redeemed from a sand 
waste. There are now nearly 300 acres of close- 
shaved sward — green and attractive all the year 
round — and a still greater area is planted with 
shrubs and trees, semi-tropical types largely pre- 
dominating. In addition to Golden Gate Park 
numerous smaller ones, chiefly four blocks in ex- 
tent, are scattered throughout the city, and are 
generally studded with trees and shrubbery that 
remain green summer and winter — several varie^ 
ties of palms also being in evidence. 

BUILDINGS AND INSTITUTIONS.— 

The most conspicuous building in San Francisco 
is the City Hall, surmounted by a dome 332 feet 
high. It cost over $6,000,000, and twenty-five 
years were consumed in its erection. The archi- 
tectural style is composite ; it is very solidly con- 
structed, and has walls of brick, covered with ce- 
ment. The interior of the dome is decorated with 
native marble. The structure houses all the ad- 
ministrative departments of the City Government 
and several civil courts. The criminal and police 
courts and the police department occupy a mod- 
ern building, known as the Hall of Justice. It is 
built of brick and stone and is surmounted by a 
clock tower. The Post Office, completed in 1906, 
is a substantial edifice of granite, costing more 
than $5,000,000. The last named is not a striking 
architectural production, but impressive for its 
massiveness. In addition to the Post Office the 
Federal Government maintains a mint and a sub- 
treasury. 

The State maintains the Ferry Building, on the 
water front, a structure over 800 feet in length, 
built of a light-colored sandstone, surmounted by 
a graceful clock tower. Through this building 
you are most likely to enter in visiting the city. 
A lofty nave runs through its entire length. The 
building is frequently used for exhibiting the 
products of the State ; it houses a permanent ex- 
hibit illustrative of the resources of California, 
under the auspices of the State Board of Trade ; 
a fine Alaskan ethnological collection and a 
complete display of the State's mineral products 
arranged by the State Mining Bureau. The 
Academy of Science (endowed by James Lick), 
a substantial building holding a growing mu- 
seum, is devoted to natural sciences. In Golden 
Gate Park may be found the Memorial Museum, 
built to commemorate a successful international 
fair held in 1894. The Hopkins Art Institute, 



2t 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 






m 



t 




situated on "Nob 
Hill," contains the nu- 
cleus of a fine arts col- 
■ lection. The building 
and . contents were 
presented to the Uni- 
versity 'of California 
to be reserved for the 
benefit of the public. 

THEATRES, 
CLUBS AND HO- 
TELS.— The Colum- 
bia, the California, the 
Alcazar, and the 
Grand Opera House 
constitute the leading 
playhouses. The Or- 
pheum and Fisher's 
are devoted to vaude- 
ville. The Tivoli pre- 
sents opera in some 
form every night in 
the year. .The Central 
and Grauman's are 
the most conspicuous 
among the various 
low-priced theatres. 

The clubs are num- 
srous'and well housed. 
The Bohemian, orig- 
inally founded by ar- 
tists and literary 
people, has a world- 
wide reputation for 
entertaining noted 
visitors. Its rooms 
are decked with excel- 
lent pictures, many of 
them gifts of artist 
members. The Pacific 
Union is composed 
chiefly of wealthy citi- 
zens. The Hebrew 
element has two 
prominent societies — 
the Concordia and the 
Verein. The Century, 
Forum, Outdoor Art 
League and Califor- 
nia form the leading 
clubs organized by 
women. With the ex- 
ception of the two last 
named, whose inter- 
ests are centred on 
civic matters, the 
women's clubs are de- 
voted principally 'to 
social and literary 
pursuits. 

Of "the numerous 



hotels comprising all classes, the most ])rominent 
are the Palace, the Occidental and the St. Fran- 
cis ; the last mentioned being a modern twentieth- 
century, twelve-story building of steel and stone, 
adinirably situated on Union Square. 

COMMERCE AND INDUSTRY.— The im- 
portance of San Francisco is largely due to its 
position on the bay of the same name, distin- 
guished as one of the finest harbors in the world. 
With an area of 450 square miles, and a varying 
width of from 5 to 12 miles, the harbor is 
navigable by the largest vessels for a distance 
of over 40 miles from its single opening to the 
ocean, the famous Golden Gate — the entrance to 
which is a mile in width. Several steamship lines 
cross to China and Japan, Australia, and the 
Hawaiian and Philippine Islands. An active 
coastwise commerce is carried on with Alaska, 
the ports of Puget Sound, the southern points 
of California and the ports of the Atlantic. In 
addition, a large fleet of sailing vessels bear to 
Europe via this port most of the surplus grain 
and miscellaneous merchandise of California. 

Of the lines to the Orient the Pacific Mail 
Steamship Company, familiarly known as "the 
Sunshine Route," is of the greatest importance. 
It maintains a regular ten-day service, with stops 
at Honolulu, Japan and all the principal ports in 
China and the Philippines. Its steamers are of 
the latest design and pattern, and afiford unex- 
celled accommodations. 

A brief account of the relations existing be- 
tween the Pacific Mail, the Occidental-Oriental 
and the Toyo Kisen Kaisha lines may not be un- 
interesting. The Pacific Mail began its over-sea 
career in 1869, at the time of completion of the 
first Pacific railroad, the "Union and Central Pa- 
cific Line." Five years later this first Pacific 
railroad, not satisfied with the existing arrange- 
ments between it and the Pacific Mail, chartered 
four vessels belonging to the White Star Line, 
establishing the Occidental-Oriental Steamship 
Company. A severe rate war between the two 
companies ensued, with great loss to both, fol- 
lowed by an agreement of rates, schedules and 
other conditions of the service. The two com- 
panies established joint agencies, and took steps 
to prevent further rate-cutting and discrimina- 
tions ; they worked separately, but in friendly 
competition. In the early nineties the Southern 
Pacific purchased the Pacific Mail, and then 
brought the two companies under the same con- 
trol. Later in the nineties the Toyo Kisen Kaisha 
announced its intention to engage in tlie traffic 
between Japan and San Francisco. The Southern 
Pacific interests decided to avoid a rate war by 
entering into an agreement with the new com- 
petitor, and the three lines are now working in 
harmony. 

For the year ending December 31, 1905, the 
exports of foreign and domestic commerce were 



22 



S^e^>c5V< 




First Word— THE PEN 



Third Word— THE CLIP-CAP 




VERYBODY writes. Almost everybody writes 
differently. Each has some preference in 
the selection of a pen. This we recognize. 
Therefore, for the man who wishes a 
stub pen we have a stub pen; a Falcon for 
the man who likes a Falcon pen; for mani- 
folding we make a stiff pen that writes like a 
pencil and makes a better copy; for stenog- 
raphers we have special points, and much of our success has 
been due to our ability to satisfy stenographers; for bookkeepers 
we have pens that make fine lines and deposit little ink, so that 
blotting i)aper is unnecessary. 

In short, pens are made for the finest work and the most 
delicate shading. 

These pens are made in all sizes, and the size of the gold 
pen determines the price; because, as the pen increases in size the 
barrel increases in ink-holding capacity anil the whole increases 
in price. 

Make your mark with Waterman's Ideal Fountain Pen, 
whether you want the finest of fine lines or the coarsest of 
coarse ones. We have a pen to suit your hand. Insist on being 
satisfied. 

Pens are of 14-Kt. gold unaffected by the acid in any ink. 
Points are tipped with iridium. 



Second Word— THE SPOON FEED 




HEN the Spoon Feed was first introduced it was 
the only one of its kind on the market. It 
was flat and broad. At the present time al- 
most every fountain pen has a flat broad feed. 
There is no virtue, however, in mere width 
of rubber. The merit of the Spoon Feed 
lies in the semi-circular pockets cut into the 
side, which are not visible ordinarily, and 
which hold any overflow of ink caused by air pressure or other- 
wise. This is the feature 
that is patented. This is 
the Spoon Feed. 

It eliminates the flooding 
so common to all ordinary fountain pens. It makes it a safe pen 
for bookkeepers and other careful writers. 

The feed question Is the rock upon which all other makes 

have foundered, whereas with , . 

the Ideal this proper feed prin- ^li illlEaP'illM 
ciple has had the effect of mak- 
ing it the Standard of the World. No other feed will give such a 
perfectly uniform flow of ink, no other pen gives always enough 
and never too much. This is perfection. Beyond it there is 
nothing to attain. 




HIS Clip is fastened to the cap in such a way 
as to make it almost a part of the Cap itself. 
It enables one to carry a fountain pen in 
either coat or vest pocket with a positive 
sense of security. When vests are discarded 
it is a boon. It will hold your pen securely 
either inside or outside of your loose summer 
coat. It will keep the pen from rolling off 
the desk and dropping to the floor. 

Clips add to the cost of the Cap or the pen as follows : Ger- 
man Silver, 25c.; Sterling Silver, 50c.; Rolled Gold, Jl.OO; 
Solid Gold, $2.00. 

The careful writer needs it. The careless one cannot keep 
a pen without it. 

Fourtli Word — STYLES 




HE plate of pens shown, illustrates gold pen 
sizes from No. 2 (the smallest) to No. 8 
(the largest), and indicates the relative sizes 
of our cone cap holders. No. 12 to No. 18. 
These are shown in the most popular styles. 
Almost every one of the different styles 
shown is made in all of the sizes illustrated — 
but the ones shown in the illustrations are 
only a few of those we carry. Waterman's Ideal Fountain Pen 
has come to be regarded by people of good taste as an Ideal 
gift and, therefore, many presentation styles are manufactured, 
because a gift should be beautiful as well as useful. 

It is an exceptionally appropriate gift from employer to em- 
ployee, because it will be a convenience to the recipient and a 
satisfaction to the donor, in that it will save time for both. 



Fifth Word- 
THE 



-THE BEST WORD IN 
'IDEAL" WORLD 




HIS word makes all the difference in the world, 
because it means the genuine. It enables 
you to select the best. You will find this 
word "Ideal " stamped on every Water- 
man's Ideal Fountain Pen. It means extra 
care taken in the process of manufacture ; it 
means the best materials, the widest range of 
pen points (which is an important matter); 

it means the most valuable patents in the fountain pen world; it 

means reliability and satisfaction and the guarantee of exchange 

until satisfied. 

The word "Ideal " is your protection. Look for the word 

in the world. Almost a quarter century old. 



Unless the gold pen is adapted to your style of handwriting, even this fountain pen will not give maxi- 
mum satisfaction. Pen points are made to suit the varying tastes of all w^riters. Insist on being satisfied. 

L. E. Waterman Company, 173 Broad\vay, New^ York. 



[\^^erman^(lde2J)R)un 



(QTWl^ EBJ 



JklML mHi 



(Cuts Vs actual size) 



t«5(lD&MJ)FOUHT 

!3. (899X^5^ It AUC.^ 




Size No. 

Also made in 
sizes listed 



»12 



Plain Black; also Chased, Mottled or Cardinal. 
No. 12 $2.50 No. 14 $4.00 No. 10 $6.00 No. IS . 



No. 13 . 



3.50 No. 15 5.00 No. 17 7.00 



. $S.00 




S 

Also 



ize No. ^ '^ 

Iso made in I ^^ 
izes listed "^ *-' 



No. 12, G. M. M. 
No. 13, G. M. M. 



Chased, Gold-mounted, Middle Band, 18-K. Filled. 

. $3.50 No. 14, G. M. M. . $5.00 No. 16, G. M. M. . $7.00 No. 18, G. M. M. 
■ "" No. 15, G. M. M. . 6.00 No. 17, G. M. M. 



4.50 



8.00 



.$9.00 



,rcLIP-CAP (idem, o o 



2 



Size No. 

Also made in 
sizes listed 



14 



Cardinal, with Clip-Cap. This colored pen used largely for red ink, 
German Silver Clips add 25c. to all prices. 

No. 12 $2.50 No. 14 $4.00 No. 16 $6.00 No. 18 

No. 13 3.50 No. 15 5.00 No. 17 7.00 



.$8.00 




Size No. 

Also made in 
sizes listed 



15 



Gold -mounted, Chased Bands, with Clip-Cap (also withtivo plain bands as on No. 13). 

Gold-filled Clips add $1.00 to all prices ; Solid Gold Clips add $2.00 to all prices. 
No. 12, G. M. . . .$3.50 No. 14, G. M. . . .$5.00 No. 36, G. M. . . .$7.00 No. 18, G. M. . . .$9.00 
No. 13, G. M. . . . 4.50 No. 15, G. M. . . . 6.00 No. 17, G. M. ... 8.00 



Size No 



Also made 
sizes listed 



il6 



No. 12, Fil. 
No. 13, Fil. 



Filigree ; Sterling Silver with Clip-Cap, Black or Cardinal. 
Sterling Silver Clips add 50c. to all prices. 

. . . $5.00 No. 14, Fil $7.00 No. 16, Fil $9.50 No. 18, Fil. . 

Not made No. 15, Fil 8 50 No. 17, Fil 11.00 



. $12.00 



Size No. 

Also made in 



17 



Chased; also Blaclc or Mottled, with Chased or Plain Gold-mounted Cap. 
No. 12, G. M. Cap . $3.50 No. 14, G. M. Cap . $5.00 No. 16, G. M. Cap . $7.00 No. 18, G. M. Cap . $9.00 
No. 13, G. M. Cap . 4.50 No. 15, G. M. Cap . 6.00 No. 17, G. M. Cap . " "" 



i.OO 



FOR SALE BY DEALERS ALL OVER THE WORLD 





"^^"Wi— iiwMi iirifi iiMB^^^^^^B! 




■n 




lllllglllljljjlljjl 


MMjj 




Size No. -| Q 

Also made in 1 (^ 
sizes listed ^"^ 


No. 12. . . 
No. 13. . . 


. . .$2.50 
. . . 3.50 


Mottled ; 

No. 14. . . 
No. 15. . . 


also Black, Chased or Cardinal. 

. . . $4.00 No. 16 $6.00 

... 5.00 No. 17 7.00 


No. 18. . . 


. . .$8.00 



L. E. Waterman Company, 173 Broadway, New York. 

8 School Street, Boston. 209 State Street, Chicago. 742 Market Street. San Francisco. 136 St. James Street. Montreal. 

6 Rue de Hanovre, Paris. 13 Bank Strasse, Dresden. Via Bossi 4, Milan. 12 Golden Lane, London. 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



valued at $47,727,011, and the imports at $44,- 
240,984. Large quantities of gold and silver pass 
through San Francisco ; the export in 1905 being 
$5,144,380, the import nearly $12,000,000. The 
export of wheat has reached as high as $24,862,- 
09s cwt. in a single year. For the year ending 
December 31, 1905, the grain shipped by sea 
amounted to 19,433,053 bushels ; the receipts of 
wine amounted to 16,697,962, of which 644,134 
gallons were exported by sea and 366,823 cases 
of salmon were exported. Coffee is largely im- 
ported from Central America, Equador, Mexico 
and the East Indies, the quantity in 1905 being 
37,559,264 pounds. A large part of this coffee is 
di tributed in the States and Territories west of 
the Mississippi. 

Imports of tea from China and Japan in 1905 
amounted to 8,818,744 pounds. 

The receipts of customs amounted to $7,173,- 
686 in the year ending June 30, 1905. The 
activity of trade is reflected in the bank 
clearings, which showed a steadv increase 



from $602,806,000 in 1896 to $1,513,927,257 
in 1904. 

POPULATION. — San Francisco has grown 
very rapidly. The population in i860 was 56,802 ; 
in 1870, 149,437; in 1880, 233,959; in 1890, 
298,997; in 1900, 342,782. One-third of the pop- 
ulation in 1900 was of foreign birth. Of these 
the Germans numbered 35,194; Irish, 18,963; 
English, Scotch and Welsh, 12,342 ; Italians, 
7,508; and Chinese, 13,954, The Chinese live in 
a distant quarter known as "China Town," which 
has assumed many of the characteristics of their 
native land, and is frequented by visitors, who 
are attracted b)' its Oriental aspect. The number 
of Chinese immigrating has greath' diminished 
in recent years, since the operation of the Ex- 
clusion Act. In 1890 25,833 were enumerated. 
Though this class of Orientals is on the wane, an- 
other element, perhaps even more undesirable, 
the Japanese laborers, are entering the port by 
the thousands. 



San Francisco Earthquake 



AT 5.13 o'clock on the morning of April 18, 
1906, the people of San Francisco, and a 
very large district along the adjacent t^a- 
cific Coast, were awakened by the first tremors of 
an earthquake. Light shocks are not uncommon 
in California, but in this instance the movements 
became unusually violent in many localities, and 
the ground rocked and swayed to such an extent 
that many buildings were wrecked, movable ob- 
jects shifted and animals were thrown violently 
to the ground. This was repeated a few minutes 
later, followed by comparatively slighter shocks 
for several days. The area affected was at least 
450 miles in length, e.xtending from Eureka, in 
Humboldt County, to the southern extremity of 
Fresno County, and probably for fifty miles in 
width at most points. At many places the vio- 
lence of the shock seems to have exceeded that 
felt in San Francisco, but because of its density 
of population and subsequent disasters, the atten- 
tion of all nations was centred for several days on 
that city exclusively. The streets were soon 
crowded with people whose sole thought at first 
seemed to be to reach more open and safe ground 
or escape from the city entirely. The cracking 
vi-alls, swaging chandeliers and toppling chimneys 
lent a reality to the dangers of their vicinity that 
could not be disregarded by the inhabitants. Ob- 
servers on the scene declare that walls of build- 
ings had fallen from the violence of the shock, 
that the streets were more or less obstructed with 
debris, that here and there the ground was dis- 
torted into miniature hillocks and hollows, and 
that occasionally cracks yawned at their feet. Be- 
yond a doubt damage of this nature would soon 
have been repaired and the dangers forgotten 



were it not for the more serious developments of 
the catastrophe. With the first shock a few fires 
started in the lower part of the city. The fire 
department responded with confidence in its 
ability to subdue the flames, only to find that the 
earthquake had damaged the water mains to the 
alarming extent of making the available supply 
ver}' inadequate to meet the unusual demands of 
the situation. With this department practically 
helpless, the city soon became the scene of one of 
the most extensive and hopeless conflagrations of 
modern times. When the utter dispair of the sit- 
uation became known a general exodus from the 
zone of more immediate danger began, adding 
immeasurably to the first confusion by reason 
of efforts made to move the most highly-prized 
personal effects. 

For three days this conflagration raged in the 
heart of the business section. At the end of the 
first day an area along I\Iarket Street as far as 
Tenth Street, and from four to si.x blocks on each 
side, had been destroyed by fire. With water 
from the bay and the aid of the navy a narrow 
belt along the water front was saved. Later on, 
by the 20th, salt water was used to fight the 
progress of the fire at greater distances through 
a mile of hose length. Two more days and repairs 
upon local water system began to give additional 
relief; and on the 21st, as a result of extreme 
emergency measures, the fire was reported under 
control and the rest of the city out of danger. 

It was estimated that half of the population 
spent the night of the 19th under the open sky 
in the parks and streets — 200,000 people camped 
in Golden Gate Park and 50,000 in the Presidio 
Military Reservation. 



23 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



EMERGENCY MEASURES.— The serious- 
ness of the calamity was grasped at once by the 
officials in whose hands lay the means of organ- 
izing relief and protection. General Funston, 
stationed at the Presidio, without awaiting orders 
from Washington, at once sent out detachments 
of troops to patrol the city. On the afternoon of 
the first day Mayor Schmitz called together over 
forty of the leading men of the city to discuss 
measures for the emergency. This was an- 
nounced as a Committee of Safety, also known as 
the Committee of Forty, that, together with its 
sub-committees and auxiliaries, carried out the 
measures that finally saved a part of the city, re- 
stored order and protected its people from star- 
vation. It was- early appreciated -that strong- 
handed control was essential, as well as a system- 
atic disregard of the usual rights of the -individ- 
ual in favor of the common good. The city was 
placed under mar- 
tial rule. Rigid dis- 
cipline was en- 
forced. An officer's 
order, or even a 
soldier's request be- 
came law, and 
from it there was 
no appeal. Men on 
their way to safety 
were impressed for 
service in fighting 
fire, cleaning the 
streets, or aiding 
the helpless. Con- 
veyances were 
halted in their 
progress, no mat- 
ter in what private 
capacity they were 
engaged, and dis- 
patched upon er- 
rands of emergency 

for the public. new san 

Stocks of goods 

were confiscated and, under the emergency 
authorities, appropriated to the relief of most 
immediate need. Disobedience or even hes- 
itation was in many cases visited with extreme 
harshness. The patrols were ordered to shoot 
vandals at sight. Under the excitement of the 
time, the general confusion and the haste with 
which decision had to be made, as well as the 
inexperience of a portion of the patrol, it is not 
surprising that the bounds of strict justice were 
in a few instances overstepped. On the whole, 
however, the highest praise is due. At first there 
ensued conflict of authority between the repre- 
sentatives of the different forces, but this was ar- 
ranged satisfactorily on the 21st by the division 
of the city into three districts, one each to be 
given to the city police. State and Federal troops, 
and a plan of co-operation was agreed upon. 



The scarcity of water forced a resort to de- 
struction of buildings in order to remove the 
means of progress to the fire. Dynamite was 
used until the supply was exhausted, then 
artillery was employed to finish the work. 
A mile of buildings along Van Ness Ave- 
nue were blown up on the 19th. There 
was not a sound water-main east of this 
line, and later, after being driven from a 
most heroic stand at Nob Hill, the rescuers de- 
cided to bombard everything east of Van Ness 
Avenue. Although the fires repeatedly crossed 
the line thus drawn, yet it was chiefly due to such 
measures, together with the reaching of a few 
more open spaces and a shifting of the wind, that 
they were finally brought under control. But by 
that time a third of the city was in ruins, all of 
the business section destroyed, every one of the 
forty-four banks included in the burned area, 

over $200,000,000 




worth of buildings 
lost, and it was 
estimated that 250,- 
000 people were 
homeless, many of 
them wholly ruined 
financially and re- 
duced to hunger 
and abject want. 
But the water- 
front was saved, as 
was also the dis- 
trict to the west of 
Van Ness Avenue, 
Octavia and Do- 
lores Streets, in- 
cluding nearly all 
of the handsome 
private residences, 
except those of 
Nob Hill, capable 
of housing 250,000 
to 300,000 people. 
Even in the burned 
districts many buildings resisted the shock 
and fire so well that steps were soon taken 
for their repair and reoccupation. Among 
such are the Crocker, Union Trust, Merchants 
Exchange, Kohl, Mills, Call and Mutual Sav- 
ings Buildings, the Hotel St. Francis, United 
States Post-office, and others of equal impor- 
tance. The Call Building was reoccupied on its 
lower floors within a month. By May 21st a 
number of banking houses, and within six weeks 
every one of them was again open for business. 
Some of the large construction companies were 
not heavily damaged, and such firms as the Union 
Iron Works and Risdon Iron Works were soon 
able to undertake contracts. Many of the San 
Francisco Art treasures and masterpieces, among 
them William Keith's "The Snows of the 
Sierras," were saved even from the ruined dis- 



FEANCISCO 



24 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



trict. Numerous paintings from the Mark Hop- 
kins Institute of Art were saved by cutting the 
canvases from the frames and rolling them into 
bundles. On the 27th of April the street railways 
resumed business. After this date there was no 
further confiscation of property ; 300 retail stores 
were established, and the newspapers of the city 
appeared regularly. 

As an offset to the losses there was estimated 
to be $208,000,000 insurance held by 108 com- 
panies, most of which was likely to be paid. The 
stronger companies, waiving all technicalities, 
soon began to settle their claims. 

RELIEF.— On the 19th offers of aid were 
made by every large city in the United States ; 
those nearest began to forward food and other 
supplies by the train load; Congress by a joint 
resolution voted $1,000,000; the Red Cross took 
steps to use its organization to the utmost, send- 
ing Dr. Edward T. Devine as its special repre- 
sentative ; General Funston's call for food, tents 
and blankets elicited a prompt response. By 
Sunday, the 22d, food in plenty had reached the 
city, rations were distributed regularly to all 
comers, the water system had been somewhat re- 
paired and was supplying 6,000,000 gallons daily. 
Before another day had passed the people of the 
United States had subscribed $10,000,000 to the 
Relief Fund, and Congress voted $1,500,000 
more. On the 24th all local relief measures were 
organized and placed under command of the 
Finance Committee of the Relief and Red Cross 
Societies, which continued in charge. On Sep- 
tember 15th Dr. Devine reported as follows : 
"Amount of cash received, $5,867,479; amount 
expended, $3,368,641, leaving in the treasury 
$2,498,838. Of the amounts not yet transferred 
to San Francisco, $1,873,356 are in the treasury 
of the Red Cross in Washington; $585,677 in 



New York; a little over $250,000 in New York 
Chamber of Commerce; a little less than $250,- 
000 in the Massachusetts Relief Association 
treasury; $152,828 in the Chicago Commercial 
Association; and of local, untouched subscrip- 
tions in San Francisco, $65,428." 

On April 18, 1907, the people of San Francisco 
commemorated the first anniversary of the ter- 
rible earthquake by calling it a public holiday; 
the buildings were decorated, and all business 
houses were closed. The indomitable and cour- 
ageous spirit so characteristic of the Westerner 
has made San Francisco imperishable. Laved 
by one of the grandest harbors in the world, 
facing the ever-increasing market of the Orient, 
surrounded as it is by nature's choicest natural 
charms and resources, and favored with one of 
the most charming climates on earth, her business 
men have turned their combined energies to re- 
building, and to-day thousands of modern struc- 
tures are towering toward the heavens in course 
of erection. 

The energetic "Sons of the Golden West" will 
tell you in emphatic terms that San Francisco was 
not ruined, for within the breast of every mother's 
son of them lies that great spirit which will guard 
and promote the construction of a city greater 
and more magnificent than it ever could have 
been before. Business is now resuming its old 
standard, and the shipping trade is carried on to 
a vaster extent than ever; while each and every 
citizen is devoting time and energy toward his 
individual part in the reconstruction of the fair 
city. 

Such a population is worth more than rows of 
masonry or piled-up credits. It holds within 
itself wealth and cities. It is greater than acci- 
dents. That this land has produced so courage- 
ous a people should teach mankind to appreciate 
Americanism. 



Departure for Across the Sea 



THE day of departure for across the sea is 
always a busy one, for you then receive 
your first introduction to the multitude of 
small, though very important matters requiring 
personal attention, all seemingly at the last mo- 
ment. The sailing day of a large liner draws 
thousands of people to its side, some for pleasure, 
others out of idle curiosity, while the greater 
number are there to bid friends and acquaintances 
adieu. 

The steamship docks, with your steamer along- 
side, present a wonderfully animated scene, re- 
sembling more than anything else you can im- 
agine a panic on the floor of the New York Stock 
Exchange, or a street scene in the financial dis- 
trict when the curbstone brokers have gained a 
slight control of the market. Masses of people 
surge to and fro ; messenger boys, running hither 



and thither, cry aloud the names of passengers, 
swinging telegram dispatches aloft in their hands 
that bear .wishes for a bon voyage to those depart- 
ing; while other travelers are receiving final in- 
structions from the heads of large commercial 
firms, whose interests abroad they are to repre- 
sent; groups of people everywhere, apparently 
all talking at once to make the most of the brief 
moments that yet remain; automobiles, cabs, 
coupes, vehicles of all description, arrive con- 
tinually with belated passengers hurrying on 
board— all in greatest confusion. Tremendous 
four- and six-horse drays, heavily laden with tons 
of baggage, rapidly transfer their freight on 
board. A section of about twenty freight cars 
backs in alongside and their contents are unloaded 
into the mammoth ship, occupying but a small 
space of the astonishingly spacious hold; the 



25 



From Occident to Orient and Around the IVorld 



huge steam derricks constantly swinging in and 
out, lifting tons of heavy freight from the docks 
to the ship. 

When boarding your steamer, in all probability 



^^^^^:-^mt^ 


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*:§^< ^^B^ ^I^^^^M^^^I^H 






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T^ 


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m 



SUITE DE LUXE — STEAMSHIP MINNESOTA 

you will take a position at the rail on the upper 
deck, from where you can gain a better view of 
the docks below, with their ever-changing scene 
of human activity, and you 
are at once most forcibly im- 
pressed with the fact that the 
American people are fast be- 
coming a nation of irrepressible 
restlessness, combined with great 
energy^ of action and vigor ; it is 
apparently impossible for them 
to remain content within the 
sphere of their own land, ancl' 
once inoculated with the irresist- 
ible "Gad Fever," they nuist 
travel abroad again and again to 
view the distant parts of the 
earth. 

In response to' a commanding 
voice from the bridge the haw- 
sers are released ; a telegraphic 
"sig-nal from the captain to the 
chief engineer in the engine- 
room, and the clangof a gong is 
heard, ' the heavy gangway is 
lowered, the powerful propellers 
glowly commence to churn the 
water, and the majestic ship 
moves away from her berth out 
into the stream, while the waving of hats, flags 
and handkerchiefs continues until distance rend- 
ers sight impossible. 



After the excitement of departure has passed, 
and the towering buildings of the city have faded 
from view, your ship glides out upon the track- 
less ocean. As the day dies you will witness a 
magnificent sight, the sun set- 
ting directly in front of you like 
molten gold in the ship's path, 
and as the oljscuruig niglu 
settles down you will observe 
at the entrance to the harbor 
just left behind the red and 
white flashes of warning light 
from a rugged promontor}-, a 
silent sentry that warns ap- 
proaching ships of danger. You 
are now headed out across the 
limitless Western Ocean, away 
from the grandeur of the West. 
with keen anticipations of soon 
penetrating the mysterious East, 
i'ou seek your comfortable and 
luxurious stateroom, unpack 
your trunks and arrange for con- 
venient use such articles as may 
be required during the voyage. 
After your wardrobe has been 
neatly pressed and arranged in 
the spacious lockers by the at- 
tendants, you are ready to enjoy 
the finest and most fascinating 
trip that can be made. 

Entirely aside from the attractions awaiting 
the intelligent traveler at every port, the sea voy- 




MUSIC-ROOM — STEAMSHIP MINNESOTA 

age is in itself a continuous rest cure, efFectually 
benefitting those afflicted with the most serious 
bodily ills. Surrounded as you are with all the 



26 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



necessities of life, and many of its luxuries, all, 
indeed, that the most fastidious could desire, you 
soon cast to the winds all worry and care and 
begin on a new lease of life in a pure, healthful 
and invigorating atmosphere, making you as 
heart-free as a child from the multitudinous and 
complex problems that confront the average per- 
son in the over-taxed business life of to-day. 
You awake each morning with a clear brain, 
strengthened and refreshed by a good night's 
sleep ; take a salt-water plunge in the swimming 
tank ; use the punching bag ; ride ten miles on an 
artificial horse; row for half an hour, or exercise 
with rings ; or walk briskly around the deck six 



times, thereby covering a distance of 5,280 lineal 
feet, or one statute mile. During this hour-or-so 
of exercise you will have created a wonderful 
appetite, and at eight bells you proceed to the 
table to find it laden with the choicest fruits, and 
from a sumptuous menu you select anything that 
appeals to your taste. Soon you will appreciate 
the' broad, sha:ded decks, forming new and inter- 
esting acquaintances, very likely meeting some- 
one who has spent many years in the Far East, 
and you will spend hours walking up and down, 
or reclining in one of the many easy chairs, lis- 
tening to the most fascinating tales of the Chinese 
Empire and of the Orient in general. 



Hawaiian Islands 



ONLY five days from the Western coast of 
the United States, and under the tempered 
latitudes of the mid-Pacific, lie the pic- 
turesque islands of the Hawaiian group — Uncle 
Sam's first foreign possessions — which present to 
the traveler more actual charm than is combined 
in any other country. Nowhere else can be met 
such pictures of sea and sky, and plain and 
mountains ; such magnificence of landscape ; such 
brilliant sunshine and tempering trade winds ; 
such fragrant foliage, bright coloring in bush 
and tree ; such dazzling moonlight. 

With a climate world-excelling for its balmy 
air, these happy islands aiiford a refuge for those 
who would escape the rigors of cold or the heat 
encountered in the temperate zones ; an enchanted 
resort for the pleasure seeker, an almost virgin 
field of research for the scientist, a sanitarium 
for the ill, weary or overworked. Soft breezes 
make the night even more agreeable than the day. 
No pen cafi picture with words this entrancing 
land-, these mid-sea dots, for the combination of 
tropical sunshine and sea breezes produce a cli- 
mate which can be compared to none of any main- 
land, and by reason of the country's peculiar 
situation to that of no other island group. Ha- 
waii has a temperature varying not more than 
ten degrees through the day, and with an utmost 
range during the year of from ninety to fifty-five 
degrees. Sweltering heat or biting cold are alike 
unknown ; sunstroke is a mythical name for an 
unthought-of occurrence ; frost bite is as little 
heard of as is a sleigh ride. 

Picture in your memory the finest May day, 
when sunshine, soft air and the fragrance of 
flowers and perfect nature combined to make the 
heart glad, multiply it by 365, and the result is 
the yearly climate of Hawaii. The sky, with the 
blue of the Riviera and the brilliance of a sea- 
sbell, is seldom perfectly clear. Ever the fleecy 



white clouds blowing over the sea form masses 
of lace-like embroidery across the blue vault, 
adding to the natural beauty; and when thus 
powdered or rouged by sunrise or sunset the 
heavens are a miracle of color. 

Geographically and ethnologically the islands 
form the extreme northeastern group of Poly- 
nesia, and are situated between latitudes 18° 54' 
and 22° 15' N., and between longitudes 154° 50' 
and 160° 30' W., about 2,200 miles southwest of 
San Francisco, and 4,893 miles from Hongkong. 
The chain consists of eight inhabited and several 
small uninhabited islands, arranged nearly all in 
single file, extending for about 400 miles from 
southeast to northwest. The inhabited islands 
with their areas are, beginning at the southeast: 
Hawaii, 4,015 square miles; Maui, 728; Ka- 
hoolawe, 69; Molokai, 261; Lanai, 135; Oahu, 
600 ; Kauai, 544, and Niihau, 97 ; total area, 
6,449 square miles. Small as is the land area, it 
is about half that of all the Polynesian Islands 
combined. Oahu is as large as the Spciety 
group ; Maui corresponds in size to the Marque- 
sas group ; and the island of Hawaii is nearly as 
large as the remaining islands of the Polynesian 
collection. 

TOPOGRAPHY AND GEOLOGY.— The 

islands are purely of volcanic origin, being really 
the summits of enormous volcanic cones raised 
by eruption from the bottom of the ocean, which 
falls rapidly to a depth of 18,000 feet not far 
from the shores. The islands are all mountainous, 
but only one, Hawaii, is actively volcanic, having 
two of the largest craters known, Mauna Loa and 
Kilauea. Hawaii is the most recent in order of 
formation ; itis much less eroded than the others, 
and, though it has the highest peak of the group 
(Mauna Kea, 13.805 feet), its elevations are all 
rounded and easily ascended. 



27 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



Honolulu 



THE island of Oahu, with the capital city of 
Honolulu, often the only one visited by 
transpacific travelers, is picturesquely 
nestled at the base of Mount Tantalus, amid a 
profusion of tropical flowers and vegetation that 
constantly fill the air with the fragrant odors of 
ylang-ylang, hehotrope and honeysuckle; and 
during the evening hours entrancing sounds of 
stringed instruments, mingled with the laughter 
of its music-loving people, are wafted to your 
ears from many quarters midst the evergreen 
jungle. 

Honolulu has a population of over 40,000 souls 
and boasts of a perfect street railway system, 
electric lights and telephones ; and the new cable 
recently completed across the Pacific to the Phil- 
ippines connects it with Manila and San Fran- 




EXECUTIVE BUILDING — HONOLULU 

Cisco, placing the islands in direct communication 
with the outside world. The hotel accommoda- 
tions are unexcelled, and travelers who can spare 
the time should by all means plan their journey 
to stop over for at least ten days until the arrival 
of the next steamer. 

In close proximity to the city are many natural 
and exceedingly beautiful spots. Of these the 
most impressive is the Nauanu Pali. This great 
cHff is at the eastern limit of the valley of 
Nauanu, which extends seven miles from the sea, 
narrowing from a mile wide at its mouth to 200 
feet at the top, where it falls away sheer 1,000 
feet. Engineers of the highest class have cut 
and strung an excellent roadway down the face 
of the mountain, making it accessible to all kinds 



of vehicles. The valley of Nauanu is remarkable 
as being the scene of the last battle of conquest 
waged by the famous Kamehameha the Great, 
sometimes called the Napoleon of the Pacific. 

All the way up the valley are to be noted places 
where decisive movements of the extraordinary 
struggle took place. When the Oahu army had 
been finally beaten, and was disorganized, a flee- 
ing mob, it was forced bodily — numbering more 
than 3,000 men — over the precipice to quick 
death on the rocks where the plain meets the 
mountains. 

Back of the city, and at the base of Mount 
Tantalus, is the cone 800 feet in height, known as 
the Punchbowl, an extinct volcano, so named be- 
cause of its shape. An excellent driveway passes 
around its summit, from which may be obtained 
a beautiful panoramic view, ex- 
tending from Pearle Harbor to 
Diamond Head, while at your 
feet lies the lovely city of Hono- 
lulu, surrounded and interspersed 
with waving palms, tall, swaying 
cocoanut trees, flowers and creep- 
ing vines of every conceivable 
variety known to the tropical 
cHmate. And, looking afar, you 
will see the broad Pacific, rest- 
lessly tossing to and fro, with its 
long line of white-caps breaking 
ceaselessly upon the shining sand 
beach. Another roadway passes 
through a forest of eucalyptus to 
an elevation of 1,600 feet on 
Tantalus, from which an ascent 
is easily made to the summit. 

Waikiki Beach, Honolulu's 
"Del Cornado," or "Manhattan 
Beach," five miles distant, is 
reached in a short time by elec- 
" trie cars from the centre of the 

city — world-famed for its beauty, 
the even temperature of its water (78 degrees all 
seasons of the year) and the unique sports there 
indulged in, such as surf boating and surf boat 
riding. This beach is the evening resort for 
Honolulu's society, who flock there by the hun- 
dreds to bathe in the sea by moonlight or spend 
the time in pleasant conversation with friends. It 
is entirely free from any danger, running out slow- 
ly to deep water; there is no undertow, hence 
bathers are absolutely safe. From the outer reef 
to the shore surf boating forms the principal 
sport. The sharp, outrigger canoes of the Ha- 
waiian natives, guided by expert boatsmen, are 
so turned in front of the breakers that the wave 
furnishes the impetus which drives the canoe 
straight toward the shore, the breaking roller 



28 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



tumbling beneath the stern, the prow tossing a cloud of 
spray high in the air. Adepts sometimes take a long, 
pointed board, giving to it the necessary forward motion to 
enable the inrushing wave to bear it shoreward on the crest. 
Often the rider will stand upon this slight support, which 
rushes on until the breaker dies away beneath it, or drives 
it upon the sands. 

BISHOP'S MUSEUM.— A sight the traveler must not 
overlook is the famous museum. Nowhere else, perhaps, 
can be found a collection of Polynesian or Micronesian curi- 
osities and relics as are gathered in the Bishop Museum at 
Honolulu. The Hawaiian section is, of course, first, and 
many curios of ethnological value have been acquired dur- 
ing frequent expeditions to the South Seas, until the collec- 
tion is a most remarkable one. The museum is worth the 
expenditure of any amount of time that can be spared for 
the purpose, and the student will find within its walls such 
wealth as will make his heart glad. It is doubtful if the 
British Museum itself has in its Polynesian section as wide 
a range of exhibit displayed in such perfection. 

FISH AQUARIUM.— Along the beach is Kapiolani 
Park, in which abounds a remarkable collection of tropical 
growth. On a small island is a band stand, where concerts 
are given evenings and Sunday afternoons. Here, also, is 
Honolulu's aquarium, unique in every respect. Of the dis- 
play of fishes Dr. David Starr Jordan, President of Leland 
Stanford, Jr., University, one of the world's authorities on 
the subject, said: "No aquarium can boast of a collection of 
fishes more unique in form or coloring, although some have 
a greater number." 

Here are many thousands of live fish, varying in size from 
the smallest minnow to the dangerous and ferocious man- 
eating shark. All shapes and sizes of the denizens of the 
deep are represented : smooth, scaly, bony, horny, speckled, 
red, pink, yellow, violet, green, cobalt, ochre, gold and sil- 
vered, with all the combination of changeable colors seen in 
the rainbow and known to the human eye ; fish whose flesh 
is as transparent as glass, sea urchins and star fish. The 
hundred-armed octopus are also in evidence, swimming 
gracefully about, or fastening their tiny tentacles to the 
sides of the glass tank, a slight jar upon which instantly 
disturbs them, and the water becomes jet black from the 
fluid with which nature has provided them to foil their 
enemies in case of attack. There are fish in the aquarium 
capable of swimming faster by far than the swiftest ocean 
greyhound glides over the sea. The ship on which you have 
been traveling, or the Empire State Express, for instance, 
would be as the hare in the race with the tortoise, ^sop's 
Fables to the contrary notwithstanding. 

TRANSPORTATION. — Between the various islands 
of the group the Inter-Island Steam Navigation Company, 
with a dozen craft of from fifteen hundred tons down, main- 
tains an excellent express, passenger and freight service. 
These vessels are comfortable and roomy, and inter-island 
tours are exceedingly popular. The four railway lines on 
the islands are of standard gauge and are equipped in mod- 
ern style. The wagon roads throughout the whole group 
of islands are excellent. It is just the ideal country in which 
one may enjoy himself in a motor-car or carriage, and a 

29 




From Occident to Orient and Around the IVorld 




KAMEHAMEHA I STATUE 

growing number of visitors bring tlieir auto- 
mobiles, for no more convenient method of going 
about can be found. There are fine garages and 
machine sliops where perfect service may be 
counted on. 

The Oceanic Steamship Company, operating 
the Ventura^ Sierra and Sonoma between San 
Francisco and Australia, calls at Honolulu, Pago- 
Pago and Auckland, at the same time maintains 
a local service with the trim, yacht-like Alameda. 
From Vancouver to Sydney, Australia, with stops 
at Honolulu, Fiji and Auckland, a service is 
maintained by the Canadian-Australian Line run- 
ning- in connection with the Canadian Pacific 



Railway; the Miozvera, Ao-a'era, Aorangi and 
the Moana rendering service of one ship per 
month each wa}'. These vessels are all of the 
most modern build, offering perfect comfort and 
good speed. 

The most indifferent nature cannot but be 
carried away with Hawaii's great natural charms 
and balmy climate ; you will naturally enter into 
the free spirit so noticeable among its people, and 
bedeck yourself with wreaths of yellow and red 
leis, regretting most sincerely when the time of 
departure comes that your agreeable sojourn is 
at an end. You may even regret that you are, 
unfortunately, not able to spend the remainder of 
your life amid such peaceful surroundings. 

Of Hawaii, Mark Twain wrote: "No land in 
all the world has such deep, strong charm for me 
but that one ; no other land could so longingly 
and beseechingly haunt me, sleeping and waking, 
through more than half a lifetime, as that one has 
done. Other things leave me, but it abides ; other 
things change, but it remains the same. For me 
its balmy airs are always blowing, its summer sea 
flashing in the sun ; the pulsing of its surf beat is 
in my ear; I can see its garlanded crags, its 
leaping cascades, its plumy palms drowsing by 
the shore ; its remote summits floating like islands 
above the cloud-rack ; I can feel the spirit of its 
wild-land solitude ; I can hear the splash of its 
brooks ; in my nostrils still lives the breath of 
flowers that perished twenty years ago." 

As the great steamer on which 3'ou are con- 
tinuing your westward voyage majestically slips 
away from the dock you reluctantly say good-by 
and throw v/reaths of leis to the chocolate-colored 
maids on shore, while the renowned Hawaiian 
band plays "A Life on the Rolling Deep." As 
the last faint strains of their own and adopted 
national airs are wafted to you o'er the waters, 
you longingly gaze back to what has been like a 
fleeting dream of genuine happiness, which in 
future years will be redundant with pleasant 
memories. While still lost in reflections, won- 
drous Hawaii sinks on the horizon and vanishes 
away from sight in the emerald blue of a glitter- 



Westward-Ho! 



ONCE again come charming days, blue of 
sea and sky ; nights delightfully balmy and 
pleasant ; and with absorbing interest you 
watch the water forming into undulations as the 
steamer ceaselessly plows its way onward, un- 
hindered by wind or wave. When the wind is 
high and the whitecaps race across the bosom of 
the ocean, the ship rides as steadily as though 
sailing out over the smooth surface of a lake. At 
sundown the horizon in the West — the land you 
so recently left behind — glows like fretted gold. 



Then at night j'ou will be fascinated by the 
vvondrously lurid, phosphorescent water as the 
ship's propellers leave a trail of fire in its wake. 
Before retiring to quiet, healthful sleep, you will' 
more than- likely enjgy a turn about the deck, 
conversing with some well-informed traveling 
acquaintance. 

Life at sea has many attractions, not the least 
of which lies in studying your fellow passengers. 
You will notice people from all the distant cor- 
ners of the earth — the plain An-ierican million- 



30 



From Occident to Orient and Around' the World 



aire ; the practical business man ; the managing 
director of some gigantic trust, which, perchance, 
controls the very food necessities you eat : the 




SMOKING-ROOM — STEAMSHIP MINNESOTA 

serious Briton with his high-water pantaloons 
and checkered suit, with monacle adjusted in his 
eye ; the Britisher who has 
traveled extensively, and the 
commercial travelers from both 
Continents, who declare there 
is no place like Asia and its 
vast possibilities. You will rub 
shoulders with some world-re- 
nowned actor, writer or states- 
man ; take part in games with 
the progressive Japanese, the 
evasive and mysterious Fili- 
pino, or the European diamond 
merchant en route to Siam to 
dispose of his two or three mil- 
lion francs' worth of stock, the 
tea or silk merchant from 
China, a prosperous planter 
from Java, the ivory merchant 
from India and the Ce3'lon 
dealer in precious stones and 
pearls ; some of them in prog- 
ress of their twentieth voyage 
around the globe. These vet- 
eran travelers can relate won- 
derful tales of strange lands 
that will chain yoxir interest by 
the hour. You will meet men 
of every conceivable occupation 
and with every conceivable plan for the future ; 
naturalists, sportsmen, loafers, gamblers, pion- 



eers, cosmopolitans, climbers, explorers, Bohe- 
mians, grafters, missionaries, confidence men, 
traders, poets, writers of books and photograph- 
ers — all goaded from land to 
land with the one desire to see 
or do something new. 

During your leisure hours on 
board, tired of reading or of 
watching the progress of vari- 
ous games, you will find it a 
decided change to walk below 
where the Oriental steerage 
passengers are quartered. De- 
scending to the lower deck you 
immediately find yourself in 
an entirely different atmos- 
phere — you have apparently 
entered a new world simply by 
passing from one deck to an- 
other. Hundreds of Celestials, 
sleeping, smoking opium, in- 
dulging in their national and 
favorite game of chance, fan- 
tan, or grouped in bunches 
about the deck, chattering in a 
strange and, to you, unintel- 
ligible language, meet your as- 
tonished gaze, ^^'ithin a few 
moments }-ou will see thou- 
sands of dollars change hands 
among men from whose appearance you would 
judge to be paupers. But they have been to the 




FIRST-CLASS STATEROOM — STEA.MSHIP MINNESOTA 



Xew World, made fortunes, and are returning to 
the land of their birth, there to live for the re- 

31 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



mainder of their earthly days as wealthy men, 
for in the Far East the same value is not at- 
tached to money as in the West, and that which 
we account a small income represents a fortune 
to the Celestial. On boarding the ship these 
strange people burn thousands of little squares 
of paper as an offering to Joss (a Chinese 
household divinity), and immediately afterward 
retire to their quarters below deck ; and un- 
less you sought them you would never know 
they were on board. When a death occurs 
among these Asiatics the body is at once em- 
balmed by the Steamship Company, a stipulation 
being provided in their passage contract that in 
the event of death the body is not to be buried at 
sea. For, most sacred to the Celestial, and al- 
ways his dying request, is that he be transported 
back to his home village and laid in the tombs of 
his ancestors. If a death occurs on board you 
may witness the strange prostrations to the good 
spirit, or Joss, and hear the dull, continuous beat- 
ing of cymbals as the departed soul is ushered 
into the land beyond; and to make sure he is 
properly cared for in the spirit world, millions of 
imaginary dollars are paid as a tribute to the bad 
spirit for the repose and non-disturbance of the 
soul of the deceased. This imaginary money 
merely consists of slips of paper with tiny squares 
of gold and silver foil in the centre ; some large, 
some small ; a portion are burnt and the rest are 
thrown over the sides of the ship to be carried 
away by wind and wave. 

The steamer that conveys you over the seas is, 
in fact, a little floating world, with all sorts and 
conditions of human beings aboard ; all social 
grades and casts, ranging from the aristocratic 
habitues of the saloon and captain's cabin to the 
Chinese coolies in the steerage. 

Steaming westward you near the i8oth merid- 
ian, that imaginary line which marks the division 
between the Eastern and Western Hemispheres. 
From time immemorial the crossing of this line 
has been the occasion of much sport. Passengers 
unfamiliar with the language and customs of the 
sea are assured by those better versed that the 
line is plainly visible. As the approach is made 
a few passengers may be seen on the forward 
bridge deck eagerly looking for the line, and it 
is considered a harmless joke to place a hair 
across the lense of your friend's eye glasses, then 
report the line in sight. 

The unsophisticated are also told that the ship 
is traveling up hill until it reaches the i8oth 
meridian, after which it will be going down hill 
and much better speed will follow. In traveling 
to the Eastern Hemisphere a day is lost from the 



calendar, and in going toward the Western Hem- 
isphere a day is gained. One may retire on a 
Sunday night and awake on Tuesday morning, 
or, on returning from the Orient, one retires on 
a Sunday night and awakens Sunday morning. 
In all probability you will, on such on occasion, 
be impressed with the fact that there is plausi- 
bility in the familiar song, "Every day will be 
Sunday by and by." 

During the trip across the Pacific all kinds of 
curious deck games are indulged in, and on al- 
most every voyage a two-days' field tournament 
is arranged, and handsome prizes are awarded 
the winners in the potato race, tgg race, fat men's 
race, dressing race, three-legged race, sack race, 
bicycle race, drinking a bottle of mineral water 
while running at full tilt across the deck, tug-of- 
war, shuffle-board contest, shooting clay pigeons 
from the after-deck, golf contest about the decks 
with quoits. Sometimes a handsome cushion 
cover is presented to the prettiest lady on board, 
and a cigarette or cigar holder to the homeliest 
man, this being decided by vote continuing for 
five or six days, and always causing greatest 
sport. 

Then the most enjoyable function of all is the 
last night's dance, upon the after-deck, which 
for the occasion is brilliantly and artistically 
decorated with myriads of electric lights, and the 
sides of the boat are draped and entwined with 
international signals and colors, transforming 
the plain deck into a scene of ballroom splendor. 
In this festivity everyone heartily joins and trips 
the light fantastic until the early hours of morn- 
ing. 

The days at sea, with their inexplicable fascina- 
tion, go by all too quickly. Tr)^ to picture a wide 
expanse of ocean as far as the eye can reach, 
smooth as a polished mirror, with no land in sight 
for hundreds of miles — nothing but the boundless 
sea on every side — the sun traveling slowly and 
majestically along the arc, casting its rays upon 
the surface of the glistening water. The glorious 
rays of the sun gradually fade away before the 
slowly approaching twilight, and the stars come 
forth in a splendor unknown in northern climes ; 
and the moon, a mass of liquid flame, rises out of 
the dark sea, casting across its surface a broad 
path of silvery light. Here again appear the 
floating lamps of phosphorescence, and with but 
a slight tinge of imagination you may fancy the 
steamer is making her way through a sea of fire. 
As you near the shores of the land of the Rising 
Sun, once again you experience regret that the 
journey across the Pacific has been all too 
short. 



32 



GREAT NORTHERN STEAMSHIP CO. 

THE SHORTEST AND MOST COMFORTABLE ROUTE TO THE ORIENT 
OPERATING THE NEW TWIN-SCREW MAIL STEAMSHIP 

"Minnesota" 

LENGTH. 630 FEET. BEAM, 73-6 FEET. TONNAGE, 28,000. 




GREAT XORTHERX. STEAMSHIP ■' MI.WESOTA." 



SAFETY, SPEED AND COMFORT BETWEEN 

SEATTLE 

Yokohama, Kobe, Nagasaki, Shanghai and 

Hon^kon^ 

WITH DIRECT CONNECTIONS FOR 

MANILA 

STRAITS SETTLEMENTS, JAVA, AUSTRALIA, INDIA and EUROPE 

Passenger accommodations unequaled. All staterooms outside and amidships. Seventeen suites with 
private bath and toilet. Ample conveniences for bathing. Telephone in every stateroom. Complete 
ventilating system. For elegance and comfort the public rooms and hallways throughout the "Minnesota" 
are unsurpassed . 

For Folder, Rates and Detail Information apply to any railroad or steamship agent, or to the agents of the 

Great Northern and Northern Pacific Raihvavs. 



TRAFFIC REPRESENTATIVES 



LOWRIE 379 Broadway, New York. 

MERSHON 310 Broadwav, New York. 

SEWARD 20I Washington Street, Boston. Mass. 

FOSTER 207 Old South BuildinR, Boston, Mass. 

HARVEY 836 Chestnut Street, Philadelphia, Pa. 

PUMMILL 711 Chestnut Street, Philadelphia, Pa. 

JONES 823 Main Street, Kansas Citv, Mo. 

VALLERY 1039 I 7th Street, Denver, Colo. 

NESLEN . . 70 W. Second South Street, Salt Lake, Utah. 

COLBY, 

Jas. Flood Bldg., 26 Powell St., San Francisco, Cal. 

STATELER 2 East Street, San Francisco, Cal. 

EIGHMY, Jr 299 Main Street, Buffalo, N. Y. 



W. M. 
W. F. 
W. A. 
C. E. 
A. C. 
P. W. 
H. S. 
JNO. 
R. F. 
G. W 

T. K. 

GEO. 

A. L. CRAIQ, General Passenger Agent, St. Paul, Minn. 

W. A. ROSS, Asst. General Passenger Agent, Seattle, Wash. BURNS, PHILP & CO., Sydney, Australia 



W. G. MASON 215 Ellicott Square, Buffalo, N. Y. 

L. D. KITCHELL 902 Park Building, Pittsburgh, Pa. 

C. E. BRISON 30s Park Building, Pittsburgh, Pa. 

W. J. BYRTH 411 Traction Building. Cincinnati, Ohio. 

J. J. FERRY 40 East Fourth Street, Cincinnati, Ohio. 

E. B. CLARK 710 Maiestic Building, Detroit, Mich. 

P. T. .^RMITAGE 221 Hammond Building, Detroit, Mich. 

R. K. PRETTY 303 Carleton Buildmg, St. Louis, Mo. 

D. B. GARDNER- .306 Missouri Trust Building, St. Louis, Mo. 

W. J. DUTCH Fourth and Robert Streets, St. Paul, Minn. 

C. P. O'DONNELL, .Fifth and Robert Streets, St. Paul, Minn. 
V. D. JONES- .Third and Nicollet Avenue, Minneapolis, Minn. 
G. F. McNeill 19 NicoUet Avenue, Minneapolis, Minn 



W. C. THORN, Traveling Pass. Agt., 209 Adams St., Chicago, III. 
THOS. COOK & SONS, Agents, New York City, N. V. 
RAYMOND & WHITCOMB, Agents, Boston, Mass. 



C. F. McWILLIAMS, General Agent, Yokohama, Japan. 
H. G. McMICKEN, European Traffic Agent, 2 Carlton Street, 

Regent Street, London . 




le Oriental Store 




We search the world o'er for 

THINGS 
ORIENTAL 



TN Japan, China, Turkey, India, Persia, Egypt, and the Holy 
^ Land, our direct representatives search through the buzz of 
human cities and the silent places for the products of the "Head, 
Heart and Hand" and forward these treasures of Oriental Art 
Objects to Vantines — :"The Oriental Store" — in New York, 
where they all find a royal setting. 

The Collectors, Connoisseurs, and lovers of Oriental handi- 
craft, also those not familiar with this unique store, will find a 
revelation in the collections of Antique and Modern Oriental 
Things displayed here. 

The largest collection in the world 

Ceramics, Carved Ivories, Cloisonnes, Bronzes, 

Fans, Screens, Teaktvood and Japwood Furniture, 

Turkish and Persian Embroidered Stuffs, Original Fabrics, 

Silks, Laces, Kimonos, Unique Oriental Jewelry, Oriental Ru^s, 

Hand Embroidered and Drawn Work, 

Waist and Robe Patterns, 

Brocaded and Embroidered Ba^s and Purses, 

Cut Velvet Pictures, Oriental Perfumes, 

Oriental Lamps, Porcelains, Etc. 

A cordial invitation is extended to view this exhibition 

A. A. VANTINE ^ COMPANY 

Orientalists and Jewelers 



BROADWAY, bet. 18th and 19th Streets 



NEW YORK 



BRANCH STORES 



BOSTON: 272-274 Boylston Street 



PHILADELPHIA: 1624 Chestnut Street CHICAGO: 122-124 Wabash Avenue 



UNITED STATES OF AMERICA 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



Japan — Miscellaneous Information 

kUSTOM-HOUSE. — Strict examination of the baggage of passengers is made at the Cus- 
tom-House, and the best way to avoid trouble and delay is to open up everything freely. 
All articles except ordinary personal effects are liable to duty. 

GUIDES. — English-speaking guides are procurable by application to the "Welcome So- 
ciety" (Kihin-Kai), an association concerning which detailed information is furnished below; 
or from the Guides Association (Kaiyu-Sha) in Yokohama, with branches in Kobe and Kyoto; 
or the Couriers' Association in Kobe. The simplest plan is to apply at one of the hotels, but 
tourists are strongly recommended to have recourse to the Welcome Society, that not only 
provides special facilities but also exercises greatest care in selecting guides of good character, 
thus securing against overcharge, of which the tourist is too often a victim. 

According to present rates (1906) advertised, fee for a guide is 3 yen per diem for a party 
not exceeding two tourists, and 50 sen for each additional person. This provides for the 
guide's hotel outlay, but does not include his traveling expenses. 

CURRENCY. — Japan's currency system is gold monometallic, but in practice gold coins 
are little used, paper notes taking their place. The unit is called a yen — a small gold coin 
existing in theory rather than in practice, its dimensions making it inconvenient to handle. 
Hard money, when used, takes the form of the 5, 10, or 20-yen piece. The subsidiary coinage 
is entirely metallic, there being no bank-note of smaller denomination than a yen. The sub- 
sidiary coins are of silver, nickel and copper, and the system being reckoned by decimal, no 
difficulty in calculation is encountered. The yen is thus divided into 100 sen, and the sen into 
10 rin. The coin of lowest denomination in general use is a copper 5-rin piece. There are 
copper coins of i and 2 sen ; 5 sen of nickel, and 10, 20 and 50 sen of silver. For all practical 
purposes it may be assumed that the Japanese yen is equivalent to one-half of an American 
gold dollar, or to two shillings sterling. The fractional difference in favor of the yen is of very 
small significance. Hence the American has only to divide a given number of yen or sen by 2, 
and the quotient represents dollars (gold) or cents, respectively; the British tourist divides 
the yen by 10 to obtain the equivalent of a sovereign, or, content with somewhat less ac- 
curate method of conversion, he can count 4 sen as a penny. 

THE "WELCOME SOCIETY" OF JAPAN.— Recognized by Japanese and foreigners 
alike that difficulties of a very exceptional kind stand in the way of mutual understanding 
essential to sincere friendship between the Far East and the West, and with the hope of re- 
moving, or at least diminishing these obstacles, the above-named society (Kihin-Kai) was 
formed in 1893 at the instigation of a number of Japanese noblemen and gentlemen, assisted by 
several influential foreign residents. Supported wholly by voluntary contributions of mem- 
bers and well-wishers, the Kihin-Kai has no selfish end of its own to serve. It aims uniquely 
to extend a welcome to foreign tourists, rendering them every assistance during their sojourn 
in Japan, and bringing within their reach the best means for accurately observing the features 
of the country and characteristics of its people; for visiting public buildings, seeing objects of 
art, both ancient and modern; for entering into social or commercial relations with the inhabi- 
tants ; and, in short, affording them all assistance toward the accomplishment of their several 
purposes — thus indirectly promoting, in however small degree, the cause of international inter- 
course and trade. 

1. Supervision of Guides. — Arrangements have been entered into with guilds of licensed 
guides, and the Society has them under its control. The Society, upon application, will 
gladly secure for the tourist the services of a trustworthy guide at a fixed rate of remuneration. 

2. Facilities and Convenience of Travel. — If a tourist places himself in communication 
with the Society, the latter will spare no pains in supplying full information regarding any 
contemplated route; furnishing details as to distances, character of hotels and restaurants 
(giving letters if desired), and other matters of interest or convenience; adopting every avail- 
able means of adding to the security and comfort of the applicant. Guide books, volumes of 
information about the country, catalogues of works on Japan, lists of Japanese productions, 
advertisements relative to traveling, etc., are found in the Society's library, accessible to the 
tourist at all times. 

3. Sight-seeing. — In 7 addition to places and buildings open to the public, there are others 
to which the tourist can gain admittance if introduced by the Society, special privileges being 

33 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 

accorded that organization. Among such places are included the Imperial Botanic Gardens at 
Shinjuku; the Koraku-en, a spacious landscape garden, formerly belonging to the Prince of 
Mito, within the precincts of the Tokyo Military Arsenal; the Imperial Diet; the Court of 
Cassation ; the Court of Appeal ; the prisons ; the hospitals ; the governmental and other schools 
and universities; the principal factories; the Castle of Osaka; the Imperial Mint; the fencing 
saloons, etc., etc. 

4. Introductions to Manufacturers and Merchants. — A tourist desiring to buy, or make 
contracts for Japanese articles, modern or antique, and wishing to know the best places to 
procure them, the Society will direct him to manufacturers and dealers judged trustworthy, 
and by request will furnish written introduction. 

5. Introductions to Japanese Nobles and Gentlemen. — According to the rank or personal 
record of a tourist, the Society will introduce him, at his request, to any Japanese nobleman or 
gentleman, if the circumstances seem to warrant such introduction. 

6. In the case of a distinguished tourist the Society may make arrangements, at its own 
cost, to entertain him, and give members and friends an opportunity to make his acquaintance. 

Japan abounds in scenic beauties; its climate is temperate, and each season of the year 
has special charms; but the best time to visit the country is spring or autumn. 

Mineral springs, hot or cold, abound in almost every province, all having hygienic or 
medicinal efificacy of some kind ; and the traveler in pursuit of health will find in the immediate 
vicinity of the springs ample hotel accommodation providing every convenience for baths, etc. 

All large cities have hotels kept in European style, with foreign beds, furniture, meals, 
drinks, etc. Even localities lacking hotels of foreign description have Japanese inns, clean and 
comfortable. The tourist need anticipate no difficulty in the matter of lodging. 

While touring the country the traveler may ask of his hotel proprietor information about, 
or directions to temples, shrines, noted places, etc., or to obtain for him permission to see an- 
tiquities, etc., kept in temples or shrines. His request will doubtless be complied with, most 
hotel proprietors being members of the Society, but in instances where such relations are not 
established, upon request, the Society will send letters to smooth the visitor's way. 

As previously stated, the Society is maintained by subscription and by contributions from 
its own members. Tourists are therefore charged only 50 sen each, as a fee to cover part of 
the expense involved in the service rendered. But the Society will be pleased to receive con- 
tributions from any tourist desirous of expressing his satisfaction with the treatment accorded 
him, or wishing to aid the object of the Society. 

Tourists paying the fee of 50 sen are entitled to one copy of the Society's map of Japan, 
the possession of which, made evident by its presentation at the office of the Society (Tokyo 
Chamber of Commerce Building, Yuraku-cho), will secure to them at any time the services of 
the Society. 

The map can be obtained at the Society's office or from its agents. 

POSTAL AND TELEGRAPHIC SERVICES.— Postal and telegraph services are fully 
organized throughout Japan. Letters and papers can be forwarded with safety and rapidity 
to the different stages of a journey. It is, however, recommended that the address be written 
in Japanese as well as in the language of the sender, since celerity of delivery is thus ensured. 

DOMESTIC RATES OF POSTAGE.— Including all Korean ports and places in China 
where Japanese post-offices are established, Shanghai, Chefoo, Tientsin (Shinjo, Tongku and 
Shan-hai-kwan), Peking, Amoy, Soochow, Hanchow, Shashe, Hankow Foochow, Nanking 
and Newchwang. 

Letters: Per 4 momme (or J/2 ounce) or any fraction thereof 3 Sen 

Registration Fee : Extra charge 7 " 

Postal Card : Single i^ " 

Postal Card : With prepaid reply 3 " 

Newspapers and Periodicals: When posted singly, per 20 momme (or 23^ 

oz.), or any fraction thereof J4 " 

Newspapers and Periodicals: A packet containing 2 or more, 20 momme (or 

2^/2 oz.), or any fraction thereof i " 

Printed Matter, Books and Samples of Merchandise: Per 30 momme (or 3^ 

oz.), or any fraction thereof 2 " 

Samples of Seeds: Per 30 momme (or 3% oz.), or any fraction thereof i 

Unpaid and insufficiently stamped letters or packets will be regularly transmitted, but the 
double amount of the deficient postage will be charged on delivery. 

34 ...... 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 

FOREIGN RATES OF POSTAGE. 

To all Union Countries : Letters, per 15 grams 10 Sen 

Registration Fee 10 " 

Postal Card, Single 4 " 

Postal Card, with Prepaid Reply 8 " 

Printed Matter, per 50 grams 2 " 

Samples of Merchandise, 100 grams or under 4 " 

Per 50 grams above 100 2 " 

Commercial Papers, 250 grams or under 10 " 

Per 50 grams above 250 2 " 

POSTAL AND TELEGRAPHIC MONEY ORDERS.— A Postal and Telegraphic 
Money Order System also is duly organized, and will be of convenience to travelers who wish 
to avoid carrying about much money. 

TELEGRAPHS. — The Postal and Telegraph Offices are generally combined in the larger 
towns. Telegrams in any of the principal European languages cost 5 sen per word, with a 
minimum charge of 25 sen (5 words or under), addresses being counted. A telegram in Jap- 
anese of 15 kana (syllabic) characters costs 20 sen; each additional 5 characters, or any frac- 
tion thereof, costs 5 sen, addresses of sender only being charged for. Foreign residents often 
avail themselves of the latter means of communication. 

The minimum charge of a city telegram in any of the principal European languages (5 
words or under) is 15 sen, with an addition of 3 sen for every additional word; and a Jap- 
anese city telegram (15 kana or under) costs 10 sen, with an additional charge of 3 sen for 
every 5 kana or fraction thereof. The following table shows the telegram fees per single word 
to the principal cities and ports abroad: 

Aden Yen 3.62 India Yen 2.28 San Francisco Yen 3.84 



Amoy 

Annam 

Brazil 

Burma 

Canton, China 

Chefoo 

Chicago 

Cochin China 

Colombo (Ceylon) . 

Dalny 

Egypt 

Europe 

Foochow 

Fusan 

HankoAV 

Hongkong 



1.08 Jenchuen (Chemulpo) " .30 Seattle 

2.30 Macao " 1.38 Seoul 

4.58 Malacca " 2.28 Shanghai . . 

2.38 Manila " 1.70 Siam 

1.38 Massachusetts " 3.58 Singapore .. 

.96 Mokpo " .80 Songching . 

4.50 Nanking " .96 St. Louis . . 

1.94 Newchwang " i.oo St. Paul .. . . 

2.33 New York " 3.58 Sydney .... 

.96 Ohio , " 3.70 Taku 

2.38 Peking " .96 Tientsin . . . 

2.82 Penang " 2.28 Tongkin . . 

1.08 Persia " 3.24 Tsintao .... 

.30 Port Arthur " .96 Vancouver . 

.96 Russia in Asia " 1.20 Wei-hai-wei 

1.28 Russia in Europe.. . . " 1.40 



3-84 
•30 
.60 
2.18 
2.28 
1. 10 

3-70 
3-70 
2.13 

.96 

.95 
2.50 

.96 
2.98 

.96 



Russia in Europe. . . . 

As a general rule, the sender of a telegram need not concern himself about the choice of 
route. He hands in his telegram, and, unless he designates a special route, the telegraphic 
officials forward it, in the natural order of things, by the normal, or cheapest, route. 

CAUTION TO THE TRAVELER. — It is well to add a few words of warning relative to 
the art products, known as "old curios," which no longer exist in Japan, or, at least, exist only 
in very small quantities. There are few greater delusions than that of the tourist who im- 
agines he can visit Japan and pick up, here and there, at remote places, or in generally over- 
looking bric-a-brac stores, cheap specimens of lacquers, porcelain and pottery, metal work, 
pictures, ivories, textile fabrics, enamels, etc. The store of attractive masterpieces that Japan 
once possessed has been reduced to insignificant proportions by exports abroad. But in lieu of 
genuine specimens an abundant supply of imitations are procurable. Discolorations and flaws, 
suggesting the passage of years, are not in themselves recommendations, and, except to an 
antiquarian or student of a nation's art, should not enhance the value of an object. Yet many 
collectors look for such disfigurements, and many so-called "old curios" produced in obedience 
to this demand are sent to Nikko, Nara or other places of antique fame, and offered to the 
traveler as heirlooms from some famous temple or place of renown. Unless the tourist has 
special expert knowledge he will be well advised if he confines himself strictly to modern works. 



35 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



Information Concerning Yokohama 

YOKOHAMA, the principal Treaty Port of Japan, opened to foreign trade July, 1859, is 
situated on the Bay of Yokohama, a small body of water on the western side of the Gulf 
of Yedo, in latitude 35° 26' 11" N., longitude 139° 39' 20" E. A line of railway connects 
with the capital, Tokyo, about eighteen miles distant. 

POPULATION. — The Japanese, on December 31, 1902, numbered 314,333. The foreign 
population, exclusive of the Chinese inhabitants, aggregated 2,447, among which were counted 
1,089 Britishers, 527 Americans, 270 Germans and 155 Frenchmen; the Chinamen numbered 
3,800 ; making a total of 320,380 souls. 

CONVEYANCES. — A tariff of rates for the popular jinrikisha is conspicuously posted at 
every landing, at hotels and vehicle stands. The traveler is earnestly advised to make himself 
familiar with the jinrikisha fares, thus avoiding a great deal of unpleasantness. Carriages 
may be procured at from 5 to 8 yen per day, approximately $2.50 and $4.00 U. S. money. 

POST-OFFICE is situated on Main Street, near the principal hotels. Anyone ex- 
pecting to make a lengthy stay in Yokohama is advised to send all directions for forwarding 
mail, and changes of address, to the postal authorities in writing. 

CURRENCY consists of the Japanese yen, divided into 100 sen; the value being equiva- 
lent to one-half dollar American money, and about at par with the Mexican dollar. 

HOTELS.— The Grand, the Oriental Palace, and Club Hotel, all on the Bund; the 
Phoenix Hotel, on Main Street, just back of the Grand Hotel; are all considered first-class. 
Excellent private and family boarding-houses, of which there are many, afford ample accom- 
modation at reasonable prices. 

TELEGRAPH OFFICES are situated on the main thoroughfare near the post-office, 
and within a short distance from any hotel. 

GUIDES are absolutely essential, and may be engaged at from 3 to 5 yen per day, ac- 
cording to the number comprising your party. Tourists who contemplate sojourning any 
length of time in Japan should call upon, or place themselves in communication with the Wel- 
come Society, or Thomas Cook & Sons, where guides can be arranged for at very reasonable 
rates. 

RAILWAY CONNECTIONS are established with all the principal places in the Empire, 
as Tokyo, Nara, Kobe, Kamakura, Osaka, Kyoto, Nagasaki, etc. 

STEAMSHIP CONNECTIONS WITH EUROPE.— Two very important steamship lines 
from Europe make Yokohama their terminal. The well-known Norddeutscher Lloyd main- 
tains a ten-day service from Yokohama to Bremen, Germany, calling at all the principal ports 
en route. Their representatives in Yokohama are H. Aherns & Co. The Messageries Mara- 
times Steamship Company operates a ten-day service from Yokohama to Marseilles, France, 
calling at all the main ports en route. The steamers of these companies, excellent in every 
respect, are very popular with the traveling public. 

The Nippon Yusen Kaisha also engages in a fortnightly service to Europe, the terminal 
points being Yokohama and London. 

STEAMSHIP CONNECTIONS WITH THE UNITED STATES AND CANADA.— 
The Pacific Mail Steamship Company makes Yokohama a stopping-place en voyage from San 
Francisco to Hongkong, China. This popular line has a steamer leaving Yokohama about 
every nine days for San Francisco, and sends vessels in the opposite direction for Hongkong 
and ports of call. 

The Canadian Pacific Steamship Cornpany has a steamer calling about every twelve days 
for Vancouver, British Columbia, and sails one for that port from Yokohama at the same in- 
terval of days. 

36 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



The Great Northern Steamship Company, Northern Pacific Steamship Company, and the 
Nippon Yusen Kaisha have a line of ships plying between Seattle, Washington, U. S. A., and 
Yokohama on a regular ten-days' schedule. 

Distances from Yokohama to the following points : 



Miles 

San Francisco 4,520 

Seattle 4,260 

Vancouver 4,283 

Honolulu 3.440 

Manila 1,760 



Miles 

Hongkong 1,580 

Shanghai 1.045 

Kobe 350 

Moji 585 



PLACES 

Theatre Street 

The Bluff 

Bathing at Negishi Beach 

Docks and Breakwaters 

Art Industries 

Shrine of O San no Miyo 

The Time Bell 

Temple of Fudo 

Drive to Mississippi Bay 

Race Course 



OF INTEREST, YOKOHAMA. 

View from i co-step Tea House 

Iris and Peony Gardens 

Public Gardens 

Makuzu Ware Manufacturing 

Bazaars 

Shrine of Benten-sama 

Isezakicho Street of Amusement 

Joshoji Temple 

Drive along the beach to "Oyster Nell's" 

Cloisonne Ware Manufacturing 



Yokohama, Japan 



THE picturesque shore line of Japan looms 
upon the horizon, and the old, snow-tipped 
monarch, Fujiyama, still worshipped as of 
old, rears like a pearl out of the blue sea. 

No sooner has your steamer dropped anchor 
near the light- 
ship, in Yoko- 
hama Harbor, 
before it is 
boarded by 
several dapper 
little medical 
officers from 
the quarantine 
station to 
make an in- 
spection as to 
the health of 
passengers ere 
anyone is al- 
lowed to step 
ashore. 

Looking over 
the side of the 
ship you will 
note that it is 
surrounded by 
queer - looking 

crafts of every Fujiyama 

d e s cription, 

manned by half-clad oarsmen, gesticulating and 
chattering in a manner and language entirely 
new to the Westerner. You receive here your 
first impressions of the wondrous Orient. 

After the medical inspection you will be con- 




veyed on shore with the mail, or b}' one of the 
numerous hotel launches that meet every ship, 
and landed at the Custom House docks for ex- 
amination of baggage, a procedure dispatched 
with quickness and attended by marked courtesy. 

You are now 
at liberty to 
see Yokohama, 
Tokyo and the 
surrounding 
country to your 
heart's content. 
Stepping out 
of the Custom 
House into the 
street, with a 
rush dozens of 
jinrikislias (or 
rickshas, a s 
now abbrevi- 
ated ) form in 
a semicircle 
about you and 
entirely ob- 
struct further 
progress ; con- 
sequently there 
remains no 
other course 
open to you 
of these unique 



but to accept the use of one 
contrivances, You_ will find them all alike, the 
second best to be found in the Far East, com- 
fortably padded with immaculately clean linen ; 
and stepping into the nearest one you are snugly 



37 



SAMURAI SHOKAI 

The Oldest and Largest Firm 
in Yokohama 



HIGH ART CURIOS, ANTIQUE 
AND MODERN, GOLD, SILVER, 
BRONZE, LACQUER, SATSUMA, 
AND DAMASCENE WARES OF 
THE FINEST MAKE. 

Everything Guaranteed 

^All visitors to Yokohama invited to 
visit our magnificent Japanese house 
with beautiful garden, where tea cere- 
monial and Flower Oranging will be 
shown without cost and with pleasure. 



20 Honcho-Dori, Yokohama, Japan 



38 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



tucked in with a warm robe, and the httle man in 
tights and a toadstool hat darts away with you 
down the street at fuU speed, while you wonder 
what your friends on Broadway would say 
could they behold you at that very moment; an 
irresistible smile twitches across your face, and 
you are drawn in memory back to the days of 
your childhood when you were wheeled about in 
a baby carriage. 

It might surprise you to learn that the jin- 
rikisha, so commonly used in Asia, was a 
"Yankee trick," invented by an American named 
Gobel, a missionary, at one time in the American 
Navy with Commodore Perry, and with him 
when he enforced the American claims in 1852. 
The comfort of the jinrikisha is undisputed, and 
the newest designs, with pneumatic tires, as 



time and money consumed in crossing over land 
and sea. 

Otamachi Street, in Yokohama, is well worthy 
a visit. Thousands of people crowd this way, 
stopping here and there in front of the open 
stores, haggling and arguing over some prospec- 
tive bargain — a drama of daily enactment — and 
almost imperceptibly the onlooker is overcome 
with a desire to go a-shopping. All along this 
busy thoroughfare are scattered large theatres, 
pottery booths, fakirs and all kinds of cheap 
shows, immense auction rooms from which issues 
the brazen voice of the auctioneer, never hushed 
imtil after midnight — and one may spend hours, 
or even days, without wearying of the strange 
scene. If a visit to the theater is planned, the 
best policy to adopt is to secure the services of 




ASI.\TIC RICKSHA AND QUEEN 



found all through the French possessions, in 
Cochin China, form the acme of enjoyment as a 
mode of transportation. 

The best time to visit any part of Japan is 
during April and October. In the month of 
April Nature begins to awaken from her winter's 
sleep, the air is redolent with the odor of flowers, 
and every hillside and garden is covered with 
the full blossom of the cherry tree. The chry- 
santhemum season in October is the occasion for 
many special fetes, which attract visitors in large 
numbers from all over the Empire to the dif- 
ferent cities where merrymaking is indulged in 
for some days. There abounds also the wistaria, 
that beautifully tinted, purple flower, measuring 
three and sometimes five and six feet in length, 
the like of which no other country can produce. 
Merely to view this fairyland of blossoms, where 
Queen Flora sits enthroned, is worth all the 



an intelligent interpreter, and under the spell 
of his explanations that which otherwise would 
not be understood becomes a revelation. 

Yokohama is bordered with many beautiful 
suburbs within easy distance. The Bluff, an ex- 
tensive tract of elevated ground, overlooking the 
settlement from the East, and commanding mag- 
nificent views — exquisite landscapes and sea- 
scapes in the foreground, and the world-famed 
Fujiyama in the distance — was allotted for 
foreign settlement in 1866; an ideal spot, dotted 
with picturesque little villas nestled amid the 
evergreen and flowers, completely segregated 
from the trade atmosphere of the busy settlement 
below. Upon the Bluiif overlooking the land 
and sea the jaded business man of Yokohama 
makes his home, and well founded is his claim 
of having the loveliest residence in the East. 
The town plan is well laid and contains many 



39 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



fine edifices of stone, including the prefectorial 
buildings, the Saibansho or courthouse, post- 
office, custom-house, railway station, a public 
hall, an Anglican, a French Catholic and a 
Protestant Union Church in the settlement, and 
several native churches. There are hospitals, a 
fine cricket and recreation ground, a race course, 
a public garden on the Bluff, hotels, club houses, 
banks, and several weekly and daily newspapers 
in English, French and Japanese languages. A 
fine water supply was introduced in 1887, the 



source being at Sagami-gawa, about thirty miles 
distant. Ships load and unload at a great pier 
2,000 feet long, and anchorage is rendered safe 
by two great breakwaters 12,000 feet in length. 
Several large graving docks are located at Yoko- 
hama, capable of taking ships of ordinary size 
for cleansing purposes. 

As Kobe is famous for the production of tea. 
so is Yokohama noted as the great silk emporium 
of the countrv. 



Kamakura 



TFIE sea-coast village of Kamakura, 
miles south of Yokohama, lying 
enclosed by hills, with entrances from each 
point of the compass, is easily reached from 



twelve 
in a valley 




THE DAIBUTSU KAMAKURA 



Yokohama in thirty minutes by Government Rail- 
road, and worthy of the trip. It was founded in 
the seventh century, A. D. Yoritomo, the 



famous general, who became shogun in 1185, 
made it his capital, and it remained for nearly 
four hundred years the political centre of Japan, 
the residential seat of most of the shoguns. and 
the scene of much bloodshed and 
unrest. Having suffered so 
nuich by fire and civil war, there 
exists little to-day to attest its 
bygone greatness. It had ceased 
to be a town of any importance 
long before lyeyasu conquered 
the Kiwanto and fixed his resi- 
dence at Yedo. 

Kamakura is now a place of 
great resort for its natural 
beauty, its still large number of 
famous relics, and its Shinto and 
Buddhist shrines. One mile dis- 
tant stands the famous bronze 
image of Dai-Butsu, or "Great 
Buddha." forty-nine feet seven 
inches high, cast in the year 
1252 A. D., and visited annually 
by thousands of tourists, both 
native and foreign. On the sum- 
mit of a hill near by may be 
seen the grave of Yoritomo, the 
original organizer of the system 
of military government known 
as the "Shogunate." and who certainly deserves 
the distinction of being regarded one of Japan's 
greatest administrators and legislators. 



Tokyo 



THE capital of Japan, Tokyo, is situated on 
the southeast side of the Island of Hondo, 
on the Bay of Tokyo, in latitude 35° 41' 
N.. longitude 139° 46' E., and is reached from 
Yokohama in one hour by express trains, which 
depart from both cities every sixty minutes on 
the hour. 

The city covers a wide area, and is exceedingly 
irregular in outline, being, indeed, a collection of 
towns grown together rather than a single city 
laid out according to design. It is divided into 



two unequal parts by the River Sumida. The 
eastern portions along the river and fronting the 
bay are level and low ; the western rise into con- 
siderable hills with a dense population in the 
valleys which separate them. 

The chief feature is the palace inclosure within 
the grounds of the ancient castle. These grounds 
under the old regime were very extensive and 
were surrounded by an outer wall and moat more 
than two and a half miles in length. This wall 
has been leveled in part and the moat filled up. 



40 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



Within was a second moat and wall, and even a 
third in parts. The old residence of the shoguns 
within the third wall was burned in 1872 and 
has been replaced by the palace of the Emperor, 
in a mixed Japanese-European style of archi- 
tecture. It stands in the ancient and beautiful 
park called Fukiage. The palace was first occu- 
pied by the Emperor in 1889. Much of the area 
inclosed by the outer wall and moat was occupied 
in past ages by the mansions of the feudal 
barons, but these are now destroyed, and in their 
place are the various buildings devoted to the 
use of the Government, built European style and 
devoid of special interest. 

To the east of the castle is the distinctively 



and widened, iron bridges having replaced the 
old ones of wood, and many improvements have 
been introduced. Nevertheless, the old styles of 
shops and dwellings are in the vast majority, to 
the extent that this part of Tokyo seems virtually 
the same as in centuries past. 

In the northern part of the city is the arsenal, 
with the beautiful garden attached, formerly be- 
longing to the mansion of the Barons of Mito. 
Not far away is located the ancient building used 
as a library, once the great Confucian College. 
Farther to the north, on the site of the town 
mansion of the Baron of Kaga, is situated the 
Imperial University. Farther to the east extends 
the great park, Uyeno, with the mortuary shrines 




TOKYO TEMPLE 



commercial portion of the city, with banks, ware- 
houses, shops, hotels, restaurants, newspaper 
offices and dwellings. A long, main street, vari- 
ously named in different parts, and without any 
general designation, passes through this section 
of the city from northeast to southwest, flanked 
on both sides with rows of low buildings of stone 
and brick of a semi-European style of architec- 
ture. From it lanes and other streets diverge in 
ail directions, for the greater part lined with 
small wooden structures, inexpensive looking and 
without pretension, with storehouses mingled 
among them made of mud or clay, and here and 
there an incongruous modern building. Of late 
years some of the streets have been straightened 



of eight of the shoguns of the Tokugawa family ; 
and the Imperial Museum, filled with many ob- 
jects worthy of inspection. Still farther to the 
east towers the great temple erected to the God- 
dess of Mercy, Kwannon Sama, with an adjoin- 
ing park, numerous shrines, a pagoda, rows of 
shops and innumerable places of amusement. 

Across the River Sumida the eastern portion of 
the city embraces the two districts called Honjo 
and Fukiage, a quiet region known to visitors 
chiefly for its display of flowers, the cherry blos- 
soms at Mukojima, the wistaria at Kamedio, and 
the iris at Horikiri, and for the great wrestling 
matches at the Temple E-ko-in, where a hundred 
thousand citizens, victims of the awful conflagra- 



41 



From Occident to Orient and Around the JTorld 



tion of 1657, lie buried in a common pit at a 
spot now trampled upon by the feet of athletes 
and desecrated by the shouts of pleasure-seekers. 
On the west bank of the Sumida was established 
the Foreign Concession, but since the abolition of 
extra-territoriality foreigners are permitted to 
live in all parts of the city. In the same district, 
on the shore of the bay, the Imperial Park, known 
as Enryo-kwan, beautifies the vicinity. The park, 
called Shiba, occupies a site in the southern part 
of the city, and within its confines are built the 
magnificent mortuary shrines of the second 
regime of shoguns, and the almost equally fine 
shrines of six others. Beyond the park, still fol- 
lowing the line of the bay, is the Temple of San- 
kakuji, famous for the little cemetery surround- 
ing it, containing the tombs of the forty-seven 
ronins. To the west of the palace are large 




IRIS GARDEN 

residences encircled by gardens and high walls. 
Of the suburbs having delightful resorts, special 
mention may be made of Meguro, Oji, Futago 
and Ikegami. The city is protected against fire 
by a well-organized fire department equipped 
with steam fire-engines. An excellent police 
system insures the safety of the inhabitants. The 



aflfairs of the city are administered by a mayor, 
a municipal council and a municipal assembly. 
Tokyo proper has few industrial pursuits, al- 
though numerous factories abound in the neigh- 
borhood. Situated unfavorably for commerce, 
the Sumida River being unnavigablc for vessels 
of large tonnage, trade is carried on by way of 
Yokohama. 

Originally an obscure hamlet called Yedo stood 
on the seashore in the district of the city now 
designated Asakusa, while the greater portion of 
the busiest parts of the present-day city was 
covered with the waters of the bay and lagoons. 
Near Yedo a rude castle was built in the fifteenth 
century, but the place continued without impor- 
tance until, toward the end of the si.xteenth cen- 
tury, Tokugawa lyeyasu took possession, and in 
1603 made it the seat of his Government of the 
Empire. He retained the an- 
cient name Yedo, but made it 
speedily the most important city 
in Japan and the capital in a 
sense never known before. lye- 
yasu commanded artisans and 
merchants to move to his new 
city from Kyoto and Osaka. He 
occupied the ancient castle, and 
in the days of his grandson the 
new castle was constructed. But 
the most characteristic and orig- 
inal feature of Yedo ensued be- 
cause of a rule by which the 
feudal barons had to spend a 
portion of every second year in 
the city, and that in their ab- 
sence members of their families 
had to be left as hostages. In 
consequence, the feudal barons 
built town mansions, surroimded 
them with beautiful gardens, 
and for the first time in the history of Japan 
came, in time of peace, in contact with one an- 
other. The result was rivalry in display and a 
luxury and extravagance before known only in 
Kyoto in connection with the Imperial Court. 
From this time forth Yedo took on the appearance 
so often described by travelers of the present day. 



Nikko 



WHILE at Tokyo you should by all means 
visit Nikko, only five hours' ride by rail, 
upon which city nature has showered 
beauty with a lavish hand. Of Nikko more has 
been written and spoken by foreigners than any 
other place in Japan. And the Japanese will tell 
you if you have not visited Nikko you have not 
seen Japan at all. From its magnificent slopes 
and mountain tops, covered with evergreens and 
adorned with temples, one looks down upon a 
landscape which no artist can ever hope to ade- 



quately portray, and which should not be missed 
by those fortunate enough to have set foot on the 
shores of the Mikado's Kingdom. 

Nikko was chosen as the site for the most 
splendid temples of Japan, and you will see there 
the finest creations of Japanese art in combination 
with the loveliest examples of Japanese scenery — 
an exquisite harmony of man's most perfect 
handiwork and nature's highest eflforts toward 
perfection. It has been claimed that the moun- 
tains, the cascades and the monumental forest 



42 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



trees were there always, and that to these were 
added, in the seventeenth century, the beautiful 
mausolea of lyeyasu and lyemistu. But this is 
not true, for it can plainly be seen that the en- 
vironment of the mausolea must have been adapt- 
ed to their plan, and that the fine rows of crypto- 
meria leading to the shrines, and the grand 
groves of giant trees guarding the tombs, must 
have been planted as mere saplings when the 
corpse of the first Tokugawa regent was in- 
terred at Hotoke-iwa on that spring morning two 
hundred and eighty-eight years ago. In fact, the 
Nikko of the seventeenth century wotdd look 



cupied by the Crown Prince for two or three 
months out of each year. Thousands of pilgrims 
wander to the city yearly in July, and frequently 
make excursions to the still higher altitudes. 
Yumoto, six miles distant, is an important and 
beautiful place, reached by roadway along the 
shores of two small lakes. Near Yumoto is Mt. 
Nantaisan rising splendidly to the clouds. 

Returning from Nikko you can change cars at 
Oyama, if you so desire, and proceed to the 
little mountain village of Mayebashi, thence by 
ricksha seven miles to Ikao, the centre of the silk 
industry, and if you are interested in silk or its 




NIKKO TEMPLE 



garish and flashy to eyes that have viewed its 
stately sobriety and mellow antiquity at the be- 
ginning of the twentieth. Age has softened 
everything that was then gaudy, lent restfulness 
to colors obtrusive in their infancy and changed 
nurseries of seedlings into groups of majestic 
forest kings. The Nikko of to-day ranks high 
among the world's loveliest sights. Many days 
may be spent in the excellent inns established 
there during recent years. The Imperial house- 
hold has a summer palace at Nikko, usually oc- 



manufacture you will be amply satisfied with 
your observations there. In addition to its great 
silk industries Ikao boasts of good hotels and 
mineral baths, the latter attracting many of 
Japan's wealthiest citizens for the cure of bodily 
infirmities. 

Thence coming back once more to Yokohama 
you may travel by rail across country to Kyoto 
and Osaka, joining your ship at Kobe. Or you 
may travel from Yokohama to Kobe by boat, 
thence by rail to Osaka and Kyoto. 



43 



From Occident to Orient and Around the U'orld 



Kyoto, 



OR Kioto, one of the three fu cities of Japan, 
and the capital of the country from the 
year 794 until 1868, when the Shogunate 
was abolished, and the ]\Iikado and his court re- 
moved to Yedo, Tokyo. 

The city stands on the island of Hondo, in 
latitude 35° N., and longitude 135° 30' E., in a 
fertile plain, bordered on three sides by moder- 
ately high mountains, near the centre of the 




ROAD TO NIKKO TEMPLES 

Province of Yamashiro. It is forty-seven miles 
by rail from Kobe via Osaka to the coast, and 
three hundred and twenty-nine from Tokyo, and 
is also connected by rail with Tsuruga on the Sea 
of Japan on the north, and westward three hun- 
dred and two miles with Shimonoseki where 
the island of Hondo approaches Kiushiu. It is 
on the main railroad line between Yokohama and 
Kobe. 

The city, which is unwalled, is traversed from 
north to south by the Kamogawa, which divides 
it into two unequal parts. The larger and more 



44 



important part lies along the right bank of the 
river, the wide shingly bed of which is nearly 
dry except in the rainy season. Everywhere 
throughout the city clear water ripples, and no- 
where in the Empire can such good water be 
found — excellent for bleaching linens. The 
smaller and more picturesque part of the city, 
where are found most of the hotels patronized by 
foreigners, rises gradually from the left bank to 
the wooded, steeper slopes and spurs of the range 
of mountains, where many of the more famous 
temples, etc., are situated. 

In general, the plan of the city differs but little 
from that of 794, which Kuwammu, its founder, 
called Hei-an-jo, ''the city of peace." It is about 
four miles in length from north to south, and 
two and one-half in breadth, and is laid out with 
mathematical regularit}-. The streets are wide. 
well kept, neat and clean. In the northeast part 
is the Go-Sho, or "Imperial Palace," which with 
its fine gardens, in true Japanese taste, covers 
twenty-six acres. The buildings are of wood, 
and are characterized by a certain quiet elegance 
which is peculiarly Japanese. They contain many 
fine paintings by Japanese artists, and much fine 
carving. To the southwest of this is the Xijo, 
the castle of the shogun, built in 1601, and now 
the seat of the city government. Though one of 
the gayest of cities, K3'oto is a great religious 
centre, and temples and shrines abound. Shinto 
claims 93, and Buddhism about 950. In the 
southern section of the city are the Eastern and 
Western Hongwan-ji, the headquarters of the 
Shin sect, whose temples are noted for their great 
size, their magnificence and their accessibility. 
On the eastern hills are many fine temples, such 
as the Chi-on-in and San-ju-san-gen-do. In this 
neighborhood is also found a large mound — the 
Alimidzuka — containing the ears and noses of 
the Koreans slain in the wars of Hidej-oshi. To 
the northeast of the Imperial Palace, on the way 
to Otsu, at a height of 2,000 feet, and overlooking 
Lake Biwa, are the famous Buddhist monasteries 
of Hiyci-zan, founded about A. D. 800, and in- 
tended originally to shield the palace from the 
evil influences of the north. 

Kyoto is the centre of many art industries. 
Here the finest silks, crapes, velvet, brocades and 
embroideries, porcelain, cloisonne, enameled 
ware, bronzes, etc., are produced, the manufac- 
ture giving employment to thousands of skilled 
hands. Much Satsuma and other ware is brought 
here to.be decorated. Under the city government 
is an industrial department for the promotion of 
the industrial arts, established in 1870, which in- 
cludes experimental gardening, an experimental 
farm, a weaving department where foreign looms 
are used, a physical and chemical department, a 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



female industrial school, a pauper industrial 
school, a shoemaking establishment, etc. K3'Oto 
is the seat of an Imperial University, with col- 
leges of law, medicine and engineering, sup- 
ported by the Government ; and under the aus- 
pices of the American Board of Commissioners 
for Foreign ^Missions is a college of good stand- 
ing called the Doshisha, where theolog}- is also 
taught. There are many schools, including five 
of the higher middle schools, and a training col- 
lege for teachers. 

Traveling either way. to or from Kyoto, vou 
pass through Japan's greatest agricultural 



• regions, and from your car window you will look 
upon an ever-varying panorama of cr3'ptomeria 
trees, water-covered rice-iields and thousands of 
acres of well-cultivated vegetation of all kinds. 
The railroad winds through plantations, across 
crystal streams and through charming little vil- 
lages ; and ever and anon new visions burst into 
view, and involuntarily you utter the word " 'beau- 
tiful." On the lower slopes the blossoms and 
sweet-scented flowers fill the air with their de- 
licious odors, and within what seems but a stone's 
throw old Fuii}-ama, capped with snow, towers 
above the clouds. 



Osaka 



THIS city is distant from Kobe twentv miles, 
and reached in less than an hour. Osaka, 
the great manufacturing centre, has fre- 
quently been called the Pittsburg of Japan. The 
term "\'enice of Japan" has long since become 
associated with Osaka, owing to the large num- 
ber of canals which cross the city. Osaka bears 
the same relation to the Mika- 
do's Kingdom that Chicago does 
to the United States. Glasgow 
to Scotland, or Liverpool to 
England. To this day the ruins 
of mammoth stone structures of 
by-gone centuries still exist. 
Several of these buildings are 
yet intact and used for various 
purposes : in their walls can be 
seen composite bloc'Ks or stone 
measuring no less than twenty 
feet in width by forty and fift_\- 
feet in length, and weighing hun- 
dreds of tons. On beholding 
these huge rocks the question 
arises in one's mind. "How were 
they transported to this place 
from the quarry?" and again. 
"How were they placed in their 
present position?" Xo one can 
tell : and much the same way 
no one knows to this day how the ancient 
Egyptians obtained and moved the massive rocks 
of which the pyramids were built. That both 
of these people in ancient times were familiar 
with methods of transportation for heavy ob- 
jects is undeniable : but the secret of the power 
then employed is lost, unfortunately, to them and 
the world alike. 

Osaka covers an area of eight square miles 
with a population of about one million. It lies 
upon the banks of the famous Yodo-gawa and is 
celebrated as the military capital, in the sixteenth 
century, of the great "faiko. who, in the short 
space of two years, built the greatest fortress 
Japan has ever possessed. This castle and its 
annexed buildings were burned by the adherents 



of the Tokugawa regents before abandoning 
the place in 1868. but the wide moat and colossal 
battlements are still intact. A vivid illustration 
of the changes that Japan has seen during the 
^leiji era is furnished by the fact that the plateau 
on which Hideyoshi's donjon originally stood is 
now the site of a reservoir for supplying the city 




CLAM DIGGING, MISSIPPI B-\V 

with pure water. During summer evenings the 
two streams of the Yodo-gawa are covered with 
boats floating hither and thither, and the merry 
laughter and song of pleasure seekers are heard 
on ever}- side, mingling with strains of music 
from soft-stringed instruments, far awa}- into the 
night. 

The suburbs of the cit}- are lined with quaint 
little workshops where wonderful pieces of 
bronze and metal of various kinds are cast. Car- 
pets of the finest texture and in the most brilliant 
designs are also manufactured in large quantities. 
The last decrees of the shoguns were enacted in 
this city, in the days of its militarv' supremac}- : 
but those times are past, and it has now changed 
to the industrial capital. Twenty years ago the 



45 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



whir of machinery and the throb of the steam- 
engine were heard only at the Mint, where beau- 
tiful coins, current throughout the whole East, 
are struck. No tall chimneys polluted the spark- 
ling atmosphere of the city, or interrupted the 
view of the surrounding hills. But to-day thou- 
sands of factories pour out their smoke and 
smuts, while one hundred thousand "hands" live 
under their shadow, depending upon daily 
earnings for a livelihood. Nothing delays the 
city's rapid rise to commercial greatness save 
the want of a port accessible to ocean-going 
steamers. 

The sights of the city may easily be covered in 
one day without undue fatigue. They consist 
mainly of the Imperial Mint, the Arsenal, the 
Pagodas, and one of the most abundantly stocked 
bric-a-brac warehouses (Yamanaka's store in 
Korai-bashi) in Japan, as well as the bazaars 
(Kankoba), all of which are worthy of a visit. 
The famous Castle and the Tennoji Temples are 
among the sights that should not be neglected. 
Osaka is a city of bridges, there being at least 
three hundred, many of which are very ancient. 
The great silk shops contain the finest that loom 
and hands are capable of producing, and the 
prices are remarkably cheap. Trading or pur- 
chasing with the shopkeepers should be carried 
on through an interpreter, as they are more likely 
to ask two prices from a foreigner, and the con- 
sequent "dickering" is almost maddening. 



A programme of harbor construction, involv- 
ing an outlay of twenty million yen, has been 
elaborated, and Osaka will doubtless soon become 
the shipping and manufacturing centre of the 
East. Nothing strikes a foreigner more forcibly 
than the air of briskness and bustle that pervades 
the streets. In comparison with the intense 
urgency and impetuous stress of Hfe in an Occi- 
dental city, Osaka is, of course, staid and tran- 
quil ; but whereas in other Japanese towns busi- 
ness is conducted in a more placid manner, here 
a general tendency to ardor and expedition shows 
a desire for wealth more like that of the Occident. 
A visit to the stock market will amply repay you, 
it being the largest and most exciting to be found 
anywhere outside of New York. 

Osaka's Occidental residents consist chiefly of 
missionaries ; not more than two or three trading 
firms have agencies established there. A spacious 
and imposing building, called the "Osaka Hotel," 
is the only hotel where foreign visitors can find 
good accommodations. 

Several lines of railway converge at Osaka ; the 
Tokaido line, the southern section of which runs 
to Kobe, whence you have just proceeded; 
the great northern line of the "Nippon Railway 
Company" ; the Hankai line, running to Sakai, 
where the now famous cotton rugs and carpets 
of Japan are manufactured ; the Naniwa line 
to Shijonawate, and the Nara Osaka Railway 
to Nara. 



Information Concerning Kobe 

UNTIL 1892 Kobe was the foreign part of the town of Hyogo. It was opened to foreign 
trade in 1868, and in 1892 the two towns were incorporated under the name of Kobe 
City. The port is beautifully situated at the gate of the Inland Sea, and can accommo- 
date the largest ocean liners at safe anchorage. 

POPULATION, in December, 1901, was 249,987, of which 2,901 were foreign residents, 
including 1,701 Chinese, 602 Britishers, 188 Germans, 179 Americans, 67 French, 70 Portuguese. 

i CURRENCY. — The yen and sen prevail as in all Japanese cities. The yen equals 50 cents 

gold (U. S.), or one Mexican dollar; and the sen equals one-half cent gold, or one cent Mexican. 

RAILWAYS. — The terminus is situated at the west side of the city, and the railway con- 
nects with branch lines diverging to all parts of the Empire. 

CLUBS. — The Kobe Club (British) and the Club Concordia (German) are the best ones. 

HOTEL ACCOMMODATION.— The Oriental, a magnificently appointed hotel, situated 
on the Bund facing the harbor, is recommended. 

NEWSPAPERS (Foreign).— The "Kobe Chronicle" and "Kobe Herald." Two native 
papers are also published. 

PLACES OF INTEREST IN KOBE. 
The Temple of Shinko-ji, with a large The Monument erected to the Japanese 



bronze image of Buddha 
The Minato-gawa Temple, erected in the 

twelfth century 
The Bazaar on the main street 



Hero Kiyomori in the year 1226 
The Nanko Temple 
The Nunobiki Waterfalls 
The Ikuta Temple 

INDUSTRIES. 
The Kawasaki Shipbuilding Yard, one of The New Graving Docks 
the largest in Japan The Woolen Manufacturies 

46 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



Kob( 



K 



OBE, a beautiful city nestled along the side 
of a verdure-clad mountain, offers a gor- 
geous sight from aboard ship at night, 
when brilliantly illuminated. It is particularly 
noted for its marvelous and artistic designs in 
cloisonne, pottery, tapestry, weaving and dyeing. 
Kobe is located on the Inland Sea, twenty-four 
hours distant by steamer from Yokohama. It is 
the brightest of all the foreign settlements in 
Japan, and the healthiest, on account of its pure, 
dry air and granite formation. Its commercial 
development has been most remarkable during 
recent years, for, whereas in 1878, a decade after 
opening to foreign trade, its exports and imports 
aggregated only twelve and one-half million yen 
against a corresponding figure of forty and one- 
half millions for Yokohama, Kobe's total in 1903 
was 219 millions, and Yokohama's 228. Kobe's 
excellent railway communications, both north and 
south, and its proximity to Osaka, the natural 
commercial and manufacturing centre of Japan, 
are the chief reasons for this development. Its 
population is now 300,000. 

Many places of interest and beauty are within 
easy reach of Kobe. Among them the two per- 
haps most worthy of a visit are Himeji and the 
Island of Awaji; the former for the sake of its 
ancient castle, one of the largest and best pre- 
served in Japan ; the latter, because it is the first 
part of Japan supposed to have been created by 
the heavenly couple, Izanagi and Izanami, and 
because of its great natural beauty as well as of 
numerous historical associations. 

Hyogo itself is historically celebrated on ac- 
count of an attempt made in the twelfth century 
by the Taira Chief Kiyomori to remove the 



capital thither from Kyoto, a brief change which, 
nevertheless, involved disaster for the imperial 
city and furnished a theme for lament by many 
annalists and poets. A monument to this once 
omnipotent chieftain may be seen at the Buddhist 
temple Shinko-ji, whence a few minutes' drive 
takes the visitor to one of Kobe's greatest scenic 
attractions, Wada Promontory (Wada no Mis- 
aki). Other places, easily accessible and well re- 
paying a visit, are Ikuta, with its temple said to 
have been founded by the warlike Empress Jingo 
in the third century ; the Nunobiki Waterfalls ;. 
the Moon Temple on Maya-san ; Mino, with its 
cascade and its wealth of autumnal tints ; Taka- 
razuka and Hirano, noted for their mineral 
springs, whence are obtained the now widely 
known and popular Tansan and Hirano waters,, 
and Arima, the favorite summer resort of Kobe 
residents. 

There are several hotels in Kobe, but the trav- 
eler will find the "Oriental Hotel" to be the best — 
a twentieth century establishment, most charm- 
ingly situated in the pleasantest quarter of the 
city. The rooms of the hotel are made inviting 
by the perfect arrangement of those little details 
that go to serve the personal comfort of guests. 
Bright, pleasant effects have been studied in the 
furnishings ; ventilation and light are abundant - 
bathrooms adjoining sleeping chambers are 
models of the newest styles. Every bedroom has 
an outside view. 

After twenty-four hours or more of very in- 
teresting sight-seeing you again board your 
steamer, and for about thirty-six hours steam 
through the most beautiful body of water on 
earth. 



Inland Sea 



THE Inland Sea of Japan, whose clear, shal- 
low depths are bedecked with thousands of 
beautiful little islets, is studded with quaint 
little villages, the houses of which are topped by 
low-thatched roofs. Speed on the Inland Sea is 
not desired by even the most restless traveler. 
It could not be otherwise, even if so wished, on 
account of the narrowness of the channel, its 
width varying from eight to forty miles ; but so 
thickly are some parts studded with islets that 
the vessel, slowly threading its way, passes with- 
in a stone's throw of the shore, and again and 
again it will seem to you as if it were going head- 
on to some small island ; but the skillful navigator 
throws the helm hard over and the vessel grace- 
fully answers the helm, swinging out into what 
seems to you a new world — the water, shimmer- 
ing like molten silver in the morning sunlight. 



The ever-varying scenery of this most remark- 
able body of water is a sight of which you will 
never weary, and though often traversed, to all 
travelers the last voyage across its peaceful sur- 
face arouses as much absorbing interest as the 
first. Queer sailing boats and fishing crafts of 
every description float lazily with the tide, pass- 
ing dangerously near the ship's bow, manned by 
oddly-clad men and women, whose use of the 
oar both in propelling and steering is remarkable. 
About twenty hours' steaming takes your ship 
to the Strait of Shimonoseki, the westerly gate 
of the Inland Sea. It was here that the final and 
most forcible blow was dealt to Japanese con- 
servatism, when, in 1863, a combined squadron 
of British, French, Dutch and American ships 
bombarded and destroyed the batteries planted 
at the entrance to the strait by the Prince of 



47 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



Choshu for the purpose of barring the passage of 
foreign vessels. The task of destruction proved 
comparatively easy in those days, but now seven 
forts, constructed according to the most approved 
principles of the present time, and armed with 
powerful modern artillery, guard the narrow 
passage. In recent days Shimonoseki derived 
celebrity from the fact that the treaty of peace 
between China and Japan was concluded there 
after the war of 1894-5. 

It should be specially noted that photographing 
and sketching are alike forbidden within a radius 
of ten miles around Shimonoseki and Moji on 



operates between the usual landing places at Moji 
and Shimonoseki. From here trains run daily to 
Nagasaki, a distance of 163 miles, performed in 
nine and one-half hours. At Tosu Junction, on 
the Moji-Nagasaki road, a branch line carries 
the traveler to Kurume, Kumamoto and Yatsu- 
shiro, and from other points lines diverge to 
Sasebo, one of Japan's principal naval ports ; to 
Imari, which gives its name to tlie celebrated 
porcelain called in Europe ''(Jld Japan"; to 
Dazai-fu, where in mediaeval times the govern- 
ment of the southern inland had its seat, and to 
the Orio collieries. 




IN1,A\M1 SEA JAPAN 



land and sea. The law in this respect is strictly 
enforced, and ignorance is not accepted as an 
excuse. 

The town of Shimonoseki lies on the north 
side of the strait and is faced by Moji, a smaller 
place of recent origin. It is the terminus of the 
Sanyo Railway, which taps the north, and from 
Moji the Kyushu Railway taps the south of 
Japan. Excellent foreign accommodation is af- 
forded at the Shimonoseki Station Hotel, owned 
by the Sanyo^ Railway. This railway also plies 
two large ferryboats between Moji and Shimo- 
noseki Station, while a ten-minute schedule ferry 



Upon leaving the Strait of Shimonoseki you 
will steam out upon the sea of "Gen-Kai-Nada" 
and pass over the same waters in which the im- 
mortal name of Admiral Togo was consecrated in 
Russian blood the 31st day of May, 1905. Travel- 
ing westward and southward along the shores of 
Kyushu, you come within sight of many cele- 
brated places, as Eboshi-jima (Hat-Island, so 
called from its resemblance to the ancient head- 
dress of the Japanese officers), the coal district 
of Karatzu, and the Hizen porcelain fields, where 
the first blue porcelain of Japan was manufac- 
tured. 



48 



From Occident to Orient and Around the JVorld 



Information Concerning Nagasaki. 

NAGASAKI is a city of great antiquity, and in the early days of European intercourse with 
the Far East was the most important seat of foreign trade with Japan. It is admirably 
situated on the southwestern coast of the Island of Kyushu. A melancholy interest at- 
taches to the neighborhood as the scene of the extinction of Christianity in the Empire, and the 
extermination of the professors of that religion in 1637. ^^ the entrance to the harbor lies the 
celebrated island of Pappenberg, where thousands of Christians are said to have been thrown 
over the high cliff upon their refusal to trample upon the cross. Not far away is the village of 
Mogi, where 37,000 Christians suffered death in defending themselves against the forces sent 
to subdue them. When the Christian religion was crushed and the foreigners expelled, the 
Dutch only were accorded the privilege of trading with Japan, and they were confined to a 
small plot of ground at Nagasaki called Deshima. 

POPULATION in 1898 was 107,422. 

HOTEL ACCOMMODATION.— The Nagasaki Hotel, first-class in every respect, affords 
the traveler all the comforts desired. 

CHURCHES, CLUBS. — There are English Protestant and Roman Catholic churches, two 
Clubs and a Masonic Lodge. 

BANKS, TELEGRAPH OFFICES, SHIPPING OFFICES, ETC.,— are all on the Bund 
within two minutes' walk from your hotel. 

RAILROADS. — The Kyushu Railway leads to Moji on the Strait of Shimonoseki, and 
several other places throughout the provinces. It is possible to travel from Nagasaki to 
Tokyo, the capital, by rail. 

PLACES OF INTEREST. 

The O'Suwa Temple and surrounding The Koransha or Porcelain Bazaar 

Park The carving of tortoise shell 

The coaling of ships by women and chil- Famous Unzen Hot Springs, within reach 

dren of Nagasaki 

Michino-o Hot Springs, 3 miles distant 

INDUSTRIES. 

Working of coal mines at entrance of The pearl button industry 

harbor Engine works at the new docks 

New docks, largest in the Far East Shipyards and building of ships 



Nagasaki 



1 

ON entering" the harbor of Nagasaki no this gate through which the tide of Western 

stranger can fail to be struck with the ad- civilization first flowed into Japan, and nothing 

mirable situation of the town and the can be less appropriate to such an environment 

beautiful panorama of hilly scenery unfolding to than the coaling operations constantly taking 

the view. The harbor is a land-locked inlet place in the harbor. Before your ship is se- 

deeply indented with small bays, about three curely anchored it is surrounded by heavily-laden 

miles long with a width varying from half a mile barges of coal, and myriads of men, women and 

to a mile. A reclamation scheme was commenced children climb over the sides and, organizing 

in October, 1897, and completed in January, themselves into a mechanical, human, chain-like 

1905 ; 147 acres having thus been gained, and re- form, pass the tiny baskets of coal from one to 

taining walls measuring nearly five miles in the other along the line, filling the ship's bunkers 

length have been built in front of what were for- with a rapidity unexcelled anywhere in the world 

merly the foreign concessions at Deshima and Extensive coal-beds exist in the vicinity of 

Nagasaki. Nagasaki, and Takashima is one of the most 

Nothing can exceed the tranquil loveliness of famous. The Japanese town spreads over a space 



49 



From Occident to Orient and Around the Jl'orld 



two miles long by three- fourths of a mile wide, 
here l3ang along the shore, there climbing up 
precipitous slopes, and has a population of a 




ENTRANCE TO NAGASAKI HARBOR 

hundred and ten thousand souls. On its south- 
west is Deshima, where for two centuries the 
Dutch trading community was willing to live in 
humiliating isolation ; and on the east, its water 
frontage extending half a mile and the hills be- 
hind serving for villa sites, lies the foreign 
settlement, with over i,ooo residents. There 
are many charming spots in the vicinity of 
Nagasaki which constitute pleasant health re- 
sorts, often visited in the summer by foreigners 
from China, but offering no special attraction 
to the tourist. 

A few hours will suffice to visit the temples 
and puzzle bazaars of the city. There are 
bazaars here, similar to our "Crystal Maze" in 
America, out of which, after once entering, you 
cannot possibly find your way without a guide. 
You may walk for hours through long, cor- 
ridor-like roms, lined on either side with all 
kinds of curios, old and new, arranged for sale. 
$n such places as this one has a wonderful op- 
portunity of studying the imitative genius of 
the Japanese ; everything you see is labeled 
"Made in Japan," not in Germany, but never- 
theless patterned from like articles made in 
America, England and Germany ; and in this 
fact lies, to a great extent, the cause that our 
foreign trade with Japan in manufactured 
articles is on the decrease. 

While you are in Nagasaki you must go over 
the hills to the small fishing village of Mogi, an 
hour's ride by jinrikisha. In making this jour- 
ney you gradually reach a height of several 
hundred feet above the city level, which affords 
a magnificent view of the surrounding country. 
You then drop down and down along a pictur- 
esque, winding path, in and out among the rocks. 



under drooping' boughs of tall, graceful bamboos 
which line the way, crossing now and again a 
turbulent mountain stream that leaps below to 
parts unknown, while the sky 
overhead is merged into a trans- 
parency of color, such as you 
have seen in the whirring wings 
of the humming bird as it drank 
at the fountain. Here, indeed, is 
an almost perpetual paradise, 
where you may hold comnuniion 
with Nature arrayed in all her 
regal splendor. 

Having arrived at this fishing 
village, with its odd little cot- 
tages nestled among the spread- 
ing branches of the mammoth 
trees, entwined with flowers of 
the cryptomeria, you could sit 
for hours in some comfortable 
seat, facing the restless China 
Sea, gazing oxit over its surface 
dotted here and there with little 
evergreen islands, and watching 
the white sails of fishing boats 
in search of the denizens of the deep. After an 
hour amid the surroundings of this charming 




COALING SHIP NAGAS.\KI 



place, you will return to the ship en route to 
China. 



SO 



From Occident to Orient and Aronnd the JVorld 



J 



apan 



CONSTITUTION AND GOVERN- 
MENT. — The government of the Japanese 
Empire was formerly that of an absolute 
monarchy. In the year 1869 the now ruling sov- 
ereign overthrew, after a short war, the power 
of the shogun, together with that of the daimios 
or feudal nobles, who, on the 25th day of June, 
1869, resigned their lands, revenues and retainers 
to the Mikado, by whom they were permitted to 
retain one-tenth of their original incomes, but 
ordered to reside in the capital in future. The 
sovereign bears the name of Emperor, but the 
appellation by which he has been generally 
known in foreign countries is the ancient title of 
Mikado. Mutsu-hito, the reigning monarch, was 
born at Kyoto, November 3, 1852, succeeding his 
father, Komei Tenno, 1867; married December 
28, 1868, to Princess Haru-ko, born April 17, 
1850, daughter of Prince Itchijo. The reigning 
Emperor is the 121st of an unbroken dynasty, 
founded 660 B. C. By the ancient and regular 
law of succession the crown devolved upon the 
oldest son, and, failing male issue, upon the eldest 
daughter of the sovereign. This law has often 
been disregarded in consequence of the partialit)' 
of the monarch or the ambition of powerful min- 
isters, which was one of the principal causes that 
culminated in the dual system of government in 
Japan. The throne has frequently been occupied 
by a female. A new law of succession was pro- 
mulgated in February, 1889, which excludes fe- 
males from the imperial throne. 

The power of the Mikado was formerly abso- 
lute, but its exercise was controlled, to some ex- 
tent, by custom and public opinion. His Majesty, 
in 1875, when the Senate and Supreme Judicial 
Tribunal were foimded, solemnly declared his 
earnest desire to have a constitutional system of 
government. The Mikado has long since been 
regarded as the spiritual as well as the temporal 
head of the Empire ; but although the Shinto faith 
is held to be a form of national religion, the 
Emperor does not interfere in spiritual matters, 
and all religions are tolerated in Japan. The Ec- 
clesiastical Department was, in 1877, reduced to 
a simple bureau under the control of the Minister 
of the Interior. The Mikado acts through an 
Executive Ministry divided into nine depart- 
ments, namely, Foreign Office, Interior, Finance, 
Navy, Army, Justice, Education, Agriculture and 
Commerce. In 1888 a Privy Council, modeled on 
that of Great Britain, was constituted. The new 
Constitution promised by the Mikado in 1881 
was proclaimed on the nth of February, 1889: 
in July, 1890, the first Parliament was elected, and 
met November 29th. The Parliamentary system 
is bicameral ; the House of Peers and House of 
Representatives constituting the Imperial Diet. 



REVENUE AND EXPENDITURE.— The 

annual State revenue pertaining to the general 
account is estimated in the Budget for 1905-1906 
at 305,667,190 yen, while the expenditure is es- 
timated at 211,973,848 yen, leaving a surplus of 
93,693,342 yen. The outbreak of war necessi- 
tated the provision of a war fund. A "Reserve 
Fund for Emergencies," which amounted to 
40,000,000 yen, was appropriated for this pur- 
pose, and imperial sanction was obtained for the 
sum of 156,000,000 yen, to be raised by loans 
and bonds and by borrowing from the accounts. 
Undoubtedly one of the most skillful pieces of 
work on the part of the Japanese Government 
during the recent war has been the financing 
which was performed on a huge scale. Even the 
sharpest critics must fain confess that for a poor 
country to be able to spend £200,000,000 sterling 
in a couple of years is a subject worthy of at- 
tracting attention. These things excite the ad- 
miration of the critics and has made too many 
people believe that the Japanese Government pos- 
sesses reserved wealth which can still be tapped 
if the financial situation demands it. The truth 
is, however, becoming slowly apparent that the 
limit of taxation is being reached in Japan. The 
budget for 1907 reveals to astonished onlookers 
that the ordinary expenditure in Japan has risen 
to upwards of £35,000,000 sterling, while the ex- 
traordinary expenditure accounted for £15,000,- 
000 sterling more. That a country with a foreign 
trade estimated at the trifling figure of £80,000,- 
000 sterling per annum should spend £50,000,000 
for the up-keep of the nation on modern footing 
is surprising enough ; but the new budget for 
1908 is to approximate one thousand million yen, 
or upward of one hundred millions sterling, thus 
exceeding the gross value of the foreign trade of 
the country by twenty millions sterling. 

ARMY AND NAVY.— Until the war with 
China the army consisted of six divisions and 
the Imperial Guards, with- a peace footing 
strength of 70,000 in round numbers and a war 
footing of 268,000, exclusive of the Gendarmerie 
and the Yezo Militia; but on the conclusion of 
the war a large scheme of expansion was adopted, 
under which the number of divisions was raised 
to twelve, exclusive of the guards. The peace foot- 
ing is now 160,100, and the normal war footing 
633,600. Two new permanent corps are talked 
of, consisting of the special levies raised during 
the late war. 

At the conclusion of the war with China, Japan 
found herself in possession of a fighting fleet of 
forty-three serviceable vessels, independent of 
twenty-six torpedo boats, their aggregate dis- 
placement being 78,774 tons. Of these, ten, with 



SI 



From Occident to Orient and Around the JJ'orld 



an aggregate displacement of 15.055 tons, had 
been captured from the Chinese, namely, an 
armor-clad turret ship of 7,335 tons, two steel 
cruisers, six steel gunjjoats and one wooden gun- 
boat. Prior to this Japan did not possess a battle- 
ship. Her fleet consisted entirely of compara- 
tively small vessels. An expansion scheme ex- 
tending from April I, 1896, to March 31, 1906, 
was then adopted and orders were consequently 
placed for ships in Great Britain, the United 
States, France and Germany, as well as in the 
home yards. The building program was as fol- 
lows : 

4 first-class battleships of 15,240 tons each. 
6 first-class cruisers of 9,200 tons each, 
3 second-class cruisers of 4,850 tons each. 

2 third-class cruisers of 3,200 tons each. 

3 torpedo-gunboats of 1,200 tons each. 
T torpedo depot-ship. 

1 1 torpedo-boat destroyers. 
Sp torpedo-boats. 

It was calculated that with these additions the 
total force in 1906 would be : 

6 first-class battleships, of from 12,510 to 15,240 tons. 
I second-class battleship, of 7.335 tons. 

6 first-class armored cruisers of over 9.200 tons each. 

7 second-class cruisers of over 4.000 tons each. 
6 third-class cruisers of over 3,000 tons each. 

12 fourth-class cruisers of over 1,500 tons each. 

3 torpedo gunboats of 1.300 tons each. 

I torpedo depot-ship of 6,750 tons each. 
11 torpedo-boat destroyers. 
115 torpedo boats. 
25 .gunboats, shops, etc. 

The war with Russia has augmented the naval 
strength considerably, but at the time of the is- 
suing of this Guide Book the exact value and 
serviceableness of the refloated vessels are not 
known. 

RUSSO-JAPANESE WAR (1904-05).— 

The causes of the war lay in the irreconcilable 
differences between the two nations, as brought 
about by their aggressive policy in the Far East. 
In 1895 when Japan, after its decisive triumph 
over China, had obtained the cession of the Liao- 
tung peninsula, the Czar's government, supported 
by France and Germany, compelled the Japanese 
to retrocede to China the coveted foothold on the 
Asiatic mainland. Three years later Russia ob- 
tained the lease of the Liao-tung peninsula for a 
period of twenty-five years and Port Arthur was 
made the chief naval base of Russia in the Far 
East. The occupation of Port Arthur and the 
events that followed constituted an actual menace 
to Japanese interests. As a result of the Boxer 
uprising of 1900 Russia obtained control of Man- 
churia, and, in spite of repeated treaty stipula- 
tions, showed no desire to abandon its hold. This 
attack on the integrity of China was met by the 
conclusion of the Anglo-Japanese Alliance of 
1902, in which the two contracting powers 
pledged themselves to the maintenance of the 
integrity and independence of China and Korea. 
The latter empire Japan regarded as its peculiar 
sphere of interest. The Anglo-Japanese alliance 
undoubtedly furnished the approach of war be- 
tween Japan and Russia. 



The final crisis began in May, 1903, when a 
Russian settlement was established at Yon-gam- 
pho, on the Korean bank of the Lower Yalu, for 
the ostensible object of carrying on timbering 
operations in accordance with concessions ob- 
tained from the Korean Government in 1896. To 
prevent the establishment of Russian predomi- 
nance in that section the Japanese, supported by 
the United States and Great Britain, demanded 
from Korea the opening of Yon-gam-pho and 
Wi-ju to foreign trade. Delays ensued. The 
Japanese Government entered into negotiations 
with Russia, looking toward the fulfilment by the 
latter of its treaty obligations with regard to 
Manchuria and a delimitation of the respective 
spheres of influence of the two powers. The Jap- 
anese proposals as submitted on August 12th in- 
cluded a mutual guarantee of the independence 
and integrity of China and Korea and of the 
maintenance of the principle of equal opportunity 
for all nations ; the recognition of the predom- 
inating interest of Japan and Russia in Korea 
and Manchuria respectively; a pledge to Russia 
to permit the extension of the Korean Railway 
into Manchuria ; and finally, recognition by Rus- 
sia of the exclusive right of Japan to offer advice 
in the reform of Korean administration. The 
reply of the Russian Government in October 
conceded the special position of Japan in Korea. 
but called for the creation of a neutral zone in 
that empire north of the line of 40° within which 
military activity should not be permitted, and the 
recognition by Japan of Manchuria as in all 
respects outside of its sphere of interest. 

The Russian proposals were rejected by the 
Japanese Government, which later presented a 
series of modified demands. Public feeling in 
Japan was at white heat, and on December ist 
the Ministry requested the favor of a speedy 
reply. The Russian answer on December nth 
consisted of a restatement of the earlier note, 
with the omission of the clause regarding Alan- 
churia. This did not meet with the Japanese ap- 
proval, and a counterproposition was submitted, 
followed by another from Russia. On January 
13th Japan submitted its final proposals, and up 
to Januar}' 30th no reply was received from St. 
Petersburg. Active preparations for war had 
been going on in both countries for months, and 
Japan interpreted the dilatory tactics of the Rus- 
sian Government as designed to gain time for the 
rushing of reinforcements to the Far East. On 
February 6th the Japanese minister at St. Peters- 
burg informed the Russian Foreign Office of 
Japan's decision to sever diplomatic relations. 
The formal declarations of war b)' Japan did not 
come until February loth, after the beginning of 
hostilities. 

THE PEACE OF PORTSMOUTH.— On 

June 8, 1905, President Roosevelt addressed to 
the governments of Russia and Japan a note, in 



52 



From Occident to Orient and Around the JVorld 



which he proffered his services toward the re- 
establishment of peace. On June loth the Jap- 
anese Government declared itself prepared to 
proceed with the nomination of peace plenipoten- 
tiaries, and Russia took similar action two days 
later. Washington was fixed upon as the meet- 
ing place for the peace conference ; actuall}-, how- 
ever, it assembled at Portsmouth Navy Yard, 
chosen probably with a view to promoting the 
comfort of the negotiators during the heat of 
summer. The representatives of Japan, Baron 
Jutaro Komura, Japanese ^Minister of Foreign 
Affairs, and Kogoro Tokahira, Japanese Ambas- 
sador at \\'ashington, arrived in Xew York on 
July 25th, and on the 27th they were received by 
President Roosevelt at Oyster Bay. The Russian 
delegation, headed by Sergius Witte, whose col- 
league was Baron Rosen, the Russian Ambassa- 
dor at Washington, arrived in New York on 
August 2d. On August 5th the peace delegates 
of the two nations were formally received and 
introduced to each other by President Roosevelt 
on board the Mayfiozucr in Oyster Bay. 

The conference met at Portsmouth Navy Yard 
August 9th, for the purpose of deciding on 
matters of procedure and detail. In the session 
of August loth Baron Komura submitted the 
Japanese terms of peace in writing. On the 12th 
the Russian reply was presented. It accepted 
some of the Japanese proposals and rejected 
others. It was then agreed to take up the dis- 
cussion of the Japanese terms by clauses. By 
August i8th the conference agreed to the last of 
the non-contentious points. The four in dispute 
were : the payment of an indemnit}' by Russia, 
the cession to Japan of the Island of Saghalien, 
the surrender of such Russian war vessels as had 
escaped from the scene of hostilities and found 
refuge in foreign harbors and the limitation for 
the future of Russia's strength in the Far East. 
The disputed points were disposed of b}' record- 
ing a definite disagreement, whereupon the ne- 
gotiators adjourned till August 22d. It thus 
seemed as if the conference were doomed to 
failure, and as a matter of fact, as a conference, 
it failed to bring about peace. In subsequent ne- 
gotiations the peace plenipotentiaries acted 
merely as the agents of their governments, by 
whom the direct conduct of affairs was now as- 
sumed. This result was due to the action of 
President Roosevelt, who. late in the night of 
August i8th, summoned Baron Rosen to Oyster 
Bay. To Baron Rosen, on August 19th, the 
President is said to have expressed his anxious 
desire that the work of the conference should not 
prove fruitless, and to have tendered his good 
offices for the avoidance of such an outcome. 
Baron Rosen returned to Portsmouth, and from 
this time forth the President was in close com- 
munication with the governments at St. Peters- 
burg and Tokyo. The peace conference met 
again on August 22d and August 23d. At the 



later session, or in the course of private com- 
munication between the plenipotentiaries at about 
this time, it was understood that the Japanese 
professed themselves ready to waive the qviestion 
of an indemnity, of the surrender of the interned 
ships and of the limitation of Russia's naval 
strength in the Pacific, and agreed to give up 
Saghalien in exchange for a large sum of money, 
supposed to be about $600,000,000. This pro- 
posal was rejected by the Russian representatives 
as amounting, in effect, to the payment of an in- 
demnity in thinly disguised form. 

On August 26th United States Ambassador 
Meyer informed the President of the utmost con- 
cessions to which the Russian Government would 
agree : the surrender of the southern half of Sag- 
halien, together with reimbursement of the out- 
lay incurred by Japan in the entertainment of the 
large number of Russian prisoners of war. 
Thereupon the prime centre of negotiations 
shifted to Tokyo, and finally the Japanese waived 
their claim for indemnity and agreed to make 
peace on the basis of the Czar's ultimatum. The 
treaty was signed at Portsmouth on September 
5th and was subscribed by the two emperors in 
duplicate on October 14th. 

The terms of the treaty of Portsmouth, in fif- 
teen articles with two supplementary paragraphs, 
are as follows : 

Russia cedes to Japan that portion of the Island 
of Saghalien lying south of the fiftieth parallel 
of latitude, the two powers agreeing not to take 
any military measures that would impede the free 
navigation of the Straits of La Perouse and Tar- 
tary (Art. IX). 

Russia transfers to the government of Japan, 
with the consent of the Chinese Government, the 
leasehold of Port Arthur, Ta-lien and adjacent 
territory in the Liao-tung peninsula (V). 

As well as the railway from Port Arthur to 
Chang-Chun or Kwang-cheng-tse (a town north 
of the half-way point from IMukden to Harbin), 
together with all coal mines owned and operated 
b}' the railway (\'I ). 

Russia recognizes the paramount position of 
Japan in Korea with the right to take such 
measures for guidance, protection or control as 
may be deemed necessary (II). 

Japan and Russia engage to evacuate Alan- 
churia completely and simultaneously and to 
restore it to Chinese administration (III) with- 
in a period of eighteen months ( Additional Ar- 
ticle I). 

Reserving the right to maintain guards for the 
protection of their railway lines, with a maximum 
of fifteen guards per kilometer ; the railways in 
JManchuria are not to be exploited for strategic 
purposes (\TI). 

Russia and Japan engage not to interfere with 
any measures common to all countries which 
China may take for the development of commerce 
and industry in jManchuria (IV). 



53 



From Occident to Orient and Around the H'orld 



Russia grants to Japanese subjects the right of 
fishery along the coasts of the Russian posses- 
sionsin the Japan, Okhotskand BehringSeas (XI ). 

POPULATION, TRADE AND INDUS- 
TRY. — The total area of Japan, exclusive of 
Formosa, is estimated at 163,042 square miles, 
and the population, according to census returns 
in December, 1901, was 45,426,651, exclusive of 
Chinese. About 5,000 foreigners reside in Japan, 
more than one-third that number being I5ritish 
and American. The Empire is geographically 
divided into the four islands Hondo (or Hon- 
shiu), the central and most important territory; 
Kiushiu, "Nine Provinces," the southwestern 
island ; Shikoku, "The Four Provinces," the 
southern island; and Yezo, the most northerly 
and least developed. The three first named 
islands are subdivided into eight large roads, 
containing sixty-six provinces, and the latter 
(Yezo, or Hokaido) is divided into eleven 
provinces. 

The total value of foreign trade for the years 
1899 to 1904 was : 



The imports in 1904 are classified by the De- 
partment of Finance as : 

Arms, Munitions, Clocks, etc Yen g. 050. 636 

Beans " 8.472.087 

Beverages and Comestibles " 5.342,756 

Clothing and Accessories " 1,3 11,06'J 

Coal " 706,760 

Cotton Goods " 6.781,088 

Cotton, Raw and Ginned " 73,420,386 

Cotton Yarn " 426,7 ig 

Drugs, Chemicals, Medicines " 8,146,316 

Dves, Colors and Paints " 2,254,213 

Blankets " 6,423, 1 13 

Flax, Hemp, etc " 3,018,06s 

Flour (Wheat) " 9,625,398 

Glass and Glass Manufactures " 946.637 

Grains and Seeds " 4,829.23 i 

Horns, Ivorv, Skins, Hair, etc " 8,281,032 

Indigo " 2,117.67s 

Iron and Steel " 24,927,639 

Kerosene Oil " 18,201,490 

Locomotive Engines " 2,291,32? 

Machinery " 2,506,921 

Metal and Metal Manufactures " 7,889,415 

Oils and Waxes. . " 2,914.865 

Oil Cakes " 4.668,550 

Paper and Stationery. . " 3,975,215 

Rice " 59,791.911 

Shirtings " 2,973.264 

Silk and Silk Manufacture " 1,254,445 

Sugar and Molasses " 23,093,177 

Tobacco, Cigars, etc " 1,509,654 

Vessels (Steam) " 0,319.694 

Wool and Woolen Goods " 19,342,942 

Sundries " 34,639,050 

Total " 371.360.739 



■- 


1899 


1900 


1901 


1902 


1903 


1904 


Exports 

Irnports 


Yen 


165,753,753 
277,502,156 


214,929,894 
220,401,926 


204,429,994 
287,261,845 


252,349.543 
255.816,645 


258,303.06s 
271.731.508 


319,260.896 
371,360,738 


Total 


443.255.909 


435.331.820 


491.691,839 


508,166,188 


530.034,573 


690,631,634 





The following was the total value of trade 
with foreign countries in 1904: 



The extension of The Japanese railway system 
goes on uninterruptedly. The most recent returns 



United States of America Yen 

Great Britai n " 

Continent of Europe " 

China 

India. Australia and Canada " 

Hongkong " 

Korea " 

Philippines and Siam " 

Other Countries " 



Total . . . 



Exports. 



101,250,773 
17,643.962 
54,745.819 
67.983,873 
22,326,021 
28,160,102 
20,389,728 
1,835,270 
4,923,347 



319.260,89s 



Imports. 



58,116,344 

74.992.865 

45.535.533 

54,810,336 

75,974.513 

2.495.410 

6,400,777 

8,254,421 

44.780,540 



371,360,739 



Total. 




690,621,634 



The following table shows the total value of 
goods exported in 1904: 

Beverages and Comestibles Yen 16,846,292 

Clothing and Accessories " 4,641,883 

Coal " 15,349,468 

Copper " .12,907,776 

Cotton and Cotton Goods " 10,098,735 

Cotton Yams " 29,268,455 

Di-ugs, Medicines, etc. . " 8,031,563 

Matches " 9,763,860 

Mats tor Flooi " 4,917,358 

Metal:, and Metal Manufacturing " 4,061.471 

Oil and Wa.x " 2,966,84c 

Porcelain and Earthenware " 3,875,653 

Rice and Grains " 5,431,911 

Silk " 94.331.431 

SilK- Manufactures " 43,971,246 

Skins, Hair, etc " 1,565,685 

Straw, Manufactures of " 5,192,994 

Tea " 12,833,936 

Tobacco a'.id Ciccarefes " 2,695,019 

Umbrellus " 1,447,651 

Sundrie:; " 26,192 467 

Paper and Paper Manufacturing " 2,869,301 

Total " 3 19,260,895 



give the length of the railway lines as 5,591 miles ; 
1,739 miles of government and 3,842 of private 
railway, on March 31, 1904. Total cost of these 
lines was estimated to be 338,946,792 yen. There 
were also 1,389 miles under construction at the 
date before mentioned, the estimate cost in the 
aggregate being 19,748,156 yen. The principal 
private lines are the Nippon Railway, mileage 
857; Kiushiu Railway, 416 miles; Sanyo Rail- 
way, 334 miles ; Hok-kaido Tanko Railway, 207 
miles. 

By treaties made with a number of foreign 
governments the Japanese ports of Yokohama, 
Kobe, Hakodate, Niigata and the cities of Tokyo, 
Osaka and Nagasaki were thrown open to 
foreign commerce. In 1894 a new treaty was 
signed with Great Britain by which extraterri- 



54 




BPSMAV A GBt.H.W 



From Occident to Orient and Aronnd the World 

toriality was abolished and the whole coimtn^ EDUCATION. — Education is national and 
opened to foreign trade and residence, the treaty very general in Japan, and at present in a very 
to come into force Jul}', 1899, provided similar progressive stage. There are numerous high 
treaties were effected with other powers. This schools, middle schools, normal schools and col- 
was done, and extraterritoriality ceased to exist leges for special studies, such as law, science, 
since August 4, 1899. medicine, mining, agriculture and foreign lan- 
guages, and several female high schools have 
CURRENCY. — From October, 1897, Japan been established, carefully fostered by the gov- 
placed her currency on a gold basis. The unit of ernment. In order to facilitate the prosecution 
value is a gold dollar, weighing .8333 grams and of foreign studies the government employs many 
containing .75 grams of fine gold. The conver- European professors and sends, at the public ex- 
sion from silver to gold was effected at the ratio pense, a large number of students every year to 
of I to 32.348. A scarcity of money available America and Europe. The Japanese absorb 
for mercantile purposes, and the high rate of in- western ideas, and adapt its methods of learn- 
terest, was much felt during 1900 and again in ing with great accuracy, owing to the fact they 
1905. are the greatest imitators in the world. 

Information Concerning Shanghai. 

SHANGHAI is situated in latitude 31° 14' 42" N., and longitude 121° 29' 12" E. Taken 
by the British June 19, 1842 ; evacuated by the Chinese on June 23d, same year. Opened to 
trade November 17, 1843. In 1849 the French vi^ere granted a concession. 

POPULATION, 452,716. Britishers, 3,713, Japanese 2,157, Portuguese 1,329, Americans 
1,000, Germans 785, Frenchmen 393, Russians 354, Austro-Hungarians 158, Italians 148, Span- 
iards 146, Danes 121, Indians 586, Malays 171, and 112 various other nationalities are repre- 
sented. 

CONVEYANCES. — Jinrikishas and carriages ; also wheelbarrows, but used only by natives. 

FARES. — Jinrikisha per mile, or less, 5 cents (Mexican, equivalent to 2j4 cents gold, 
U. S.). Jinrikisha by the hour, 15 cents; for each subsequent hour, 10 cents. Upon engaging 
a jinrikisha it is well to ascertain if the coolie has a license for the international settlement, for 
unless he is so provided you will have to engage another when crossing from one settlement to 
another. 

CARRIAGES. — From any one of three leading stables, rubber-tire Victorias or broug- 
hams, one pony, morning or afternoon, $4.00 ; all day, $5.00 ; with pair of horses, $7.00. Good 
street carriages can be engaged at all times in front of hotels at from 75 cents to one dollar 
per hour. 

CURRENCY. — When speaking of dollars, the value of the Mexican dollar (used in all 
transactions throughout the East) is implied. The banks and a great many of the business 
houses compute transactions in taels. A tael is worth about one-third more than the Mexican 
dollar. 

HOTELS. — Shanghai has several excellent hotels: Astor House, situated on Whampoo 
Road; Palace Hotel, on the Bund, corner of Nankin Road; Hotel des Colonies, 72 Rue Mon- 
tauban, in the French settlement ; Hotel Metropole, on Nankin Road; the St. George's Hotel, 
at the terminal of Bubbling Well Road, and easily accessible by electric car. 

POST-OFFICE. — Each Consulate maintains its own post-office where the same rates are 
charged as prevail in the respective country of each. The United States post-office has every 
convenience, and you can draw money orders, register and transact postal business the same 
as in the home country. 

STEAMBOAT CONNECTIONS. 

EUROPE. — Shanghai is a port of call for the German Mail, French Mail, Peninsular & 1 
Oriental Steamship Company, and Japanese Line, on their respective routes to and from ■ 
Europe, each line having a steamer every twelve days. i 

Melchers & Company, agents for "German Mail," on the Bund. 

J. Chapsal, agents for "Messageries," or French Line, on the Bund. 

P. & O. have their own office, also located on the Bund. 



Cable Address: "Astor" Codes used: A. B. C. 5th Edition. Western Union 

ASTOR HOUSE HOTEL 

Shanghai, China 



THE LEADING HOTEL OF THE FAR EAST 



Steam Heated : Electrically Cooled 

The ASTOR HOUSE is a first-class Hotel in every respect. All its appointments, from the 
basement to the fifth story, represent the latest and most approved ideas in Hotel construction. 

The Hotel has two hundred (200) airy and spacious bedrooms,- with bathroom with hot and 
cold water fitted to each. The splendid Dining Room will seat 500 guests, and is equipped with 
a modern installation of air-cooling electric motor fans. There are wide, airy halls and verandas, 
and cosy lounge rooms. The Hotel maintains its own private electric power station and re- 
frigerating plant. Rapid-transit electric cars pass the main entrance, affording guests every 
opportunity of travelling in the city or surrounding country. 

The rooms are made inviting by careful' attention to those Httle details that make comfort . 
The ventilation and light are excellent and the bathrooms adjoining the sleeping rooms are in 
full accord with modern requirements. 

EVERY BEDROOM IS AN OUTSIDE ONE, facing either the city or the Whangpu River. 

THE CUISIIsTE is strictly FIRST-CLASS, and imder the direction of an experienced and 
talented Parisian Chef. The service and attention are excellent and the subjects of special 
care. 

■The numerous well-appointed Private Dining-Rooms are a feature in the Hotel. 

A spacious Reading Room, stocked with the latest newspapers and magazines, affords an 
opportunity of obtaining the world's news. 

A Barber-shop and a Manicure Parlor and Jewellers, Silk Dealers and Curio Sellers have 
stores in tlie Hotel. 

Guides to the Native City, Temples, Chinese Stores and Theatres, the surrounding district 
and the interior of China may be engaged through the office of the Hotel. 

There is an up-to-date American Bar, and a large, well-equipped Billiard Saloon. 



The Astor House is a Twentieth- Century Establishment 

and is strongly recommended to the American travelling public for the above reasons. 

A RESPONSIBLE REPRESENTATIVE OF THE HOTEL MEETS ALL STEAMERS 

56 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 

AMERICA. — The Pacific Mail Steamship Company, Great Northern Steamship Company, 
Northern Pacific Steamship Company, and the Japanese Line call at Shanghai every ten days 
en route to and from the United States and Hongkong. 

J. Thebaud, agent, Pacific Mail Steamship Company. 

Nippon Yusen Kaisha, agents for Great Northern Steamship Company. 

Dodwell & Company, agents for Northern Pacific Steamship Company. 

CANADA. — The Canadian Pacific Steamship Company maintains a ten-day service to and 
from the Orient, calling at Shanghai en route to and from Victoria, B. C, and Hongkong. 

TRANS-SIBERIAN RAILWAY.— Steamers sail every ten days from Shanghai to connect 
with Trans-Siberian Railvi^ay at Vladivostock, for Europe. 

TIENTSIN. — Comfortable passenger steamers of the "Chinese Engineering & Mining Co." 
leave Shanghai twice a week for Tientsin. 

HANKOW. — Racine, Ackermann & Co., agents for the French steamers on the Yangtze 
River (also agents for the International Sleeping Car Company) dispatch steamers every five 
days. These steamers are by far the best for passengers on the river. 

COAST PORTS. — There are almost daily sailings for coast ports and Japan, by small 
steamers, which usuUy carry passengers. 



Distances from Shanghai to the following points : 

Miles 

Hongkong 850 Chemulpo . . 

Manila 1,130 Dalny 

Yokohama 1^045 Newchwang 

Vladivostock , 1,011 Tientsin . . . 

Nicalaevski 1,760 Chefoo 

Gensan 725 Kiao. Chow . 

Fusan 435 Nagasaki . . . 



Miles 

504 
550 
700 
690 
510 
398 
450 



PLACES OF INTEREST. 



Public Gardens 

Recreation Grounds 

Jesuit Mission and Orphanage 

Bubbling Well Road 

St. Joseph's Church 

German Club 

Willow Tea Houses 

Police Station and Prisons 



Church of Sacred Heart 
Promenade on Bund 
Bubbling Well 
Trinity Cathedral 
St. George Hotel 
Shanghai Club 
Chinese City 
Chinese Theatres 



and numerous drives. 



Sh 



anghai 



THE Gateway to China, Shanghai (in Chi- 
nese "Zaun-Hai," meaning ''By the sea, or 
upper sea"), is the first city of the Empire 
in commercial importance. Situated fourteen 
miles from the sea in a vast plain, and twelve 
miles from Woosung, at a junction where the 
united waters of the Whang-poo and the Woo- 
sung (commonly called the Soochow Creek) in- 
termingle with those of the lengthy Yangtze 
Kiang — one of the longest rivers in the world 
and navigable by steam crafts for 2,000 miles — 
Shanghai lies in practically the same latitude as 
the head of the Persian Gulf, Cairo, Egypt, or 
New Orleans, U. S. A., which makes its frosty 



winters very remarkable. The distance from 
Shanghai to Tientsin is 400 miles, Hongkong 
870, Nagasaki 475, Hankow 582, and to Foo- 
chow about 300 miles ; thus Shanghai occupies 
the very centre and heart of China's great trade 
mart — in fact, of the Far East trade. It is fre- 
quently referred to as the "New York" of China, 
and occupies a position on the Asiatic coast quite 
similar to that of our great metropolis on the 
eastern shores of the Western Hemisphere ; and 
its percentage of importation into China about 
equals that of New York into the United States. 
The large share of the foreign trade of China 
controlled by Shanghai is chiefly due to its posi- 



57 




ASTOR HOUSE HOTEL 

Shanghai, China 
The Leading Hotel of the Far East 



CABLE address: " ASTOR. ' CODES USED.' A. B. C. 5TH EDITION. WESTERN UNION 



STEAM HEATED. ELECTRICALLY COOLED 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



tion at the mouth of the great artery through 
which trade flows to and from China, the Yang- 
tze River. 

From a commercial standpoint Shanghai is 
surely the coming city of the far-reaching Em- 
pire of China, noted as the headquarters of 
foreign merchants, bankers, trade representa- 
tives, trade facilities, and for its excellent docking 
and shipping conveniences. 
It is now the distributing 
centre for a portion of 
Southern China, all of 
central and nearly all of 
Northern China. With the 
completion of the railroad 
from Canton in the south, 
to connect with the grand 
trunk line now finished 
from Hankow to Peking, 
Shanghai will become the 
undisputed gateway to the 
Celestial Empire. The 
total population of the city 
exceeds a half million 
souls, of which 70,000 are 
Europeans and Americans. 
More American merchants 
and representatives are lo- 
cated in this, the most pro- 
gressive and up-to-date 
city of the Far East, than in 
all of the Orient combined. 

THE PROGRESS OF 
SHANGHAI.— Shanghai 

is rapidly developing into 
a modern and prosperous 
city, with handsome build- 
ings, broad and well-ar- 
ranged thoroughfares. On 
January i, 1907, in course 
of erection there were 
enumerated twenty-three 
six-, eight- and ten-storied 
commercial buildings. 
Along the city's principal 
driveway and promenade, 
known as the Bund, are lo- 
cated several imposing 
structures, such as the new 
German Club "Concordia" 
and the Palace Hotel, both 
buildings facing' the land- 
ing by which you must 
approach the city. The 

Russian-Chinese Bank, Hongkong & Shanghai 
Banking Corporation, Chartered Bank of India 
and the Deutsch-Asiatische Bank are massive and 
impressive structures symbolic of the strength 
and firmness of Far Eastern financial concerns. 
Facing the Bund likewise is the Chinese Imperial 
Custom-House, of Tudor design, red brick, faced 



with green Ningpo stone, topped by a steep 
pitched roof of French tiles. In the centre of the 
building is a tower rising to a height of no 
feet, ornamented by a four-faced clock that 
strikes the Westminster chimes. 

On Nankin Road, another of the principal 
streets, may be found several of the largest sized 
o-eneral stores in Asia. The Hall & Holtz build- 




GERMAN CLUB CONCORDIA — SHANGHAI 

ing covers a half block, and three floors are oc- 
cupied in the display of goods. Directly across 
the street stands the massive structure, composed 
of ten stories, occupied by Whiteaway, Laidlaw 
& Co. as a general store ; and one block west the 
well-known firm of Weeks & Co. is located. 
These firms carry an enormous stock of the very 
59 



Telegraphic Address : " Palace " Shanghai Telephone: No. 39 

THE PALACE HOTEL 

Shanghai, China 



Standing on the bank of the river, at the corner of The Bund and Nanking Road, and within 
a few minutes' walk of the Banks, Theatres, Post Offices and Consulates, and in the very centre 
of the Curio, Silk, and other stores, THE PALACE enjoys the finest possible position in Shangliai. 

THE ARRIVAL ENTRANCE of the Hotel is in Nanking Road, which is immediately 
opposite the landing stage of the P. & 0. S. N. Co., and within two minutes' rickshaw or tram 
drive from the French and German mail jetties. 

Here, in the entrance hall, will be found the reception bureau and the Manager's office, 
and guests arriving can proceed to their rooms by the Grand Staircase, or by Electric Elevators. 

One important feature of this Hotel is an imposing lounge on the sixth floor, which runs 
the whole length of the building, and terminates on the spacious balcony overlooking the ri\'er. 

On this (the sixth) floor is situated theSTATELYDINING ROOM, with tables to accommo- 
date over two hundred guests at one time, and on the next floor the ROOF GARDEN. 

IN THIS MOST DELIGHTFUL RETREAT, surrounded by giant palms and graceful 
ferns, with the band playing in the public gardens below, visitors pass man}^ an enjoyable hour. 

THE VIEW from this ROOF GARDEN is unsurpassed in Shanghai, the range of observ tion 
comprising a panorama extending from Woosung on the coast line, following the winding river 
with its diversified shipping to THE QUINSAN HILLS, far away inland. 

THE PALACE HOTEL contains over 120 rooms, each having ITS OWN BATHROOM 
attached, with HOT AND COLD WATER, ELECTRIC LIGHT, and TELEPHONIC COMMU- 
NICATION. 

IN FURNISHING THE PALACE, the needs of the class of visitors who are likely to 
patronize this HIGH-CLASS HOTEL have been carefully studied. 

The appointments of the private apartments combine elegance with a quiet and restful 
tone, and perfect taste. 

It is almost superfluous to add that the more utilitarian matters, such as sanitation and 
ventilation, have not been overlooked. 

THE MOST PERFECT APPLIANCES known to sanitary science have been adopted, 
and ventilation and heating thoroughly carried out. 

THE HOTEL IS LIGHTED THROUGHOUT BY ELECTRICITY, and passenger and 
baggage elevators are provided for the convenience of the guests. There are commodious lava- 
tories in the basement, also hairdressing departments for ladies and gentlemen. 

The cellars of THE PALACE contain a large stock of carefully selected wines, and ONLY 
THE BEST BRANDS of LIQUORS and CIGARS are kept. 

THE PALACE HOTEL IS UNIQUE in the respect that it possesses its OWN KITCHEN 
GARDEN AND DAIRY FARM, owning a large estate on which are grown UNDER EUROPEAN 
SUPERVISION the vegetables used at table, thus insuring purity of food, which is often so 
difficult to obtain in China. THE CUISINE IS UNEQUALED IN THE FAR EAST. 

The Hotel commissionaire meets ALL STEAMERS and takes charge of passengers' baggage, 
relieving them of all trouble in respect to transportation of their parcels from the tender to the 
Hotel. 



60 



From Occident to Orient and Around the IVorld 



best goods, including; every line. All along- this 
street may be noticed modern establishments of 
all descriptions, jewelry stores, drug stores, etc., 
which compare favorably with those of any city. 
Prominent among the municipal buildings are the 
City Hall and j\Iarket, Central Police and Fire 
Station, all well worthy a visit, especially the Fire 
Station, because it has the unique distinction of 
being the only one in the world where a number 
of citizens reside, who voluntarily perform such 
arduous duties as those of extinguishing fire 
and saving lives. On Museum Road are lo- 
cated Shanghai's principal theatre and the ' 
museum of the Royal Asiatic Society; the latter 
should be visited as affording a splendid oppor- 
tunity to study the interesting variety of birds 
peculiar to China. 

One of the sights that will impress you more 
than anything else is the animated street traffic, 
with its varied character and scenes — a combina- 
tion of jinrikishas, cargo carts, automobiles, 
wheelbarrows, motor cycles, magnificent car- 
riages and equipages and coupes, intermingling 
with pedestrians — all regulated from left to right 
by a towering Sike policeman, who stands in the 
centre of the street, his arms raised to right or 
left as the throng surges past, or halts at his 
magic wand. You watch, with abated breath, 
this moving parade of Oriental and Occidental 
conveyances, and at times it will appear as though 
the guardian of the thoroughfare must be swept 
off his feet and trampled upon by the anxious 
throng. Automobiles and prancing horses dash 
b}^ at terrible speed, coming dangerously near this 
post-like sentry, ofttimes brushing his clothing ; 
but with that imperturbability characteristic of 
the Oriental he stands at his post apparently 
fearing neither God nor man. 

Shanghai, cosmopolitan in every sense of the 
word, will, within a few short years, rise out of 
the plains of the Yangtze and rank among the 
leading cities of the world in many respects. 
Along the thoroughfares of this great city you 
will have ample opportunity to note that the 
Chinese people are awakening from their long, 
lethargic sleep ; that the hard shell of exclusive- 
ness which, without a parallel in histor}^ has 
existed for several thousand years, is now break- 
ing and rapidly falling apart ; that the Occidental 
influence of progression is fast taking hold of 
the nation ; and you will soon find yourself ready 
to dispute that constantly expressed opinion that 
China is crumbling away and will, ere long, be 
obliterated or absorbed by the world's powers. 
In watching but superficially the progressive 
activity of the Chinese merchants along the 
streets, even the most casual observer will become 
imbued with the thought that it would be no 
easy task (even were it desirable) to subordinate 
easily to foreign ideas, or wipe from the earth 
400,000,000 of people, bright and shrewd enough 
to exploit every form of expansion and hold their 

61 



own in any of the Oriental, American and Euro- 
pean communities, as shown by experience. 

The foreign settlements of Shanghai are di- 
vided into three districts, the American, French 
and the British. A greatly enlarged boundary 
for the settlements was granted in 1901. The 
new territory has been thoroughly survej'ed and 
man}' roads are being formed. The area within 
municipal limits is now 8^ square miles, or 
5,618 acres, with an average population of sev- 
enty-one to an acre. Of this area approximately 
641 acres are covered by European and American 
buildings, 1,009 by Chinese edifices, and 2.720 
reserved for agricultural purposes, 
unlike Hongkong, has many beautiful 



acres are 
Shanghai, 
driveways, 
anywhere. 



classed among the finest to be found 
From the Bund out to Nanking and 




WALTER BRAUEN, 
MaiiEger Astor House Hotel, Shanghai 

Bubbling Well Road, a distance of five miles, is 
a beautiful avenue lined on both sides by beauti- 
ful, well-shaded trees. The winding course of 
Bubbling Well Road is due to the fact that in 
the early days it was merely a wheelbarrow path 
along the edge of a crooked creek, and to 
straighten it out was evidently not considered 
essential to its improvement undertaken in recent 
years. During the evening hours this favorite 
drive is lined with gorgeous turnouts, and the 
people of Shanghai salh' forth to enjoy the music 
and cool, refreshing breezes. The recreation 
grounds are the best to be seen in the East, and 
compare advantageously with any you may have 
seen at home. They include a splendid race 
course, on which meetings are held every spring 
and autumn ; tennis, football, baseball and cricket 




o 

< 
X 

33 

J 
H 

o 

a; 



< 



62 



From Occident to Orient and Around the Jl'orld 



fields, and, in short, every convenience and ac- 
commodation for the indulgence of sport on land. 



COMMERCE.- 

ing stronghold of 



-Shanghai is the manufactur- 



Asia. The river banks on 
either side leading to the city are lined with 
active flour mills and immense factories available 
for cotton spinning, feather cleaning, match 
making, packing, paper making and the manu- 
facture of electrical supplies and silk filatures. 
Here are also located large shipbuilding works, 
connected with drydocks, fitted to make repairs 
to the largest vessels. 

The gross trade of the port of Shanghai during 
1905 amounted to £66,795,116 as against £58,- 
008,150 in 1904, and £44,237,049 in 1901. The 
net value of trade, i. e., foreign and native im- 
ports, less re-exports, and native exports of local 
origin, was £26,619,440 in 1905 as against £20,- 
444,328 in 1904, and £17,567,- 
351 in 1901. The total import, 
including re-exports, of foreign 
goods, and the total exports, in- 
cluding re-exports, of native 
produce to foreign countries 
were £55,101,652 as against 
£46,562,745 in 1904, and £35,- 
549,834 in 1 90 1. 

The year under review (1905) 
was an exceptional one, the 
trade and general conditions of 
the port having been influenced 
by several unusual causes, such 
as the bo)xott, the typhoon of 
September ist, which caused a 
loss of millions of dollars to 
heavy stocks in godowns or 
warehouses, and absence of 
trade in the north on account of 
the Russo-Japanese War, etc. In 
spite of these adverse influences 
the trade of Shanghai shows a 
healthy increase over that of 
1904, and everything seems to point to an ever- 
increasing prosperity there. With the excep- 
tion of 1903 there has been a steady increase 
since 1901 ; and to go back ten years, the figures 
of 1905 are about double those of 1895. The 
marked and continued increase in the trade of the 
port shown bv these figures speaks volumes for 
the commercial prosperity of Shanghai, and, in- 
deed, the whole of China, for the trade of Shang- 
hai is chiefly that of a re-distributing centre for 
imports and a port of re-shipment for exports. 

The imports of metals of various kinds also 
shows an increase in copper, iron and steel of all 
sorts, especially in galvanized iron sheeting. 
Lead alone shows a falling oiif. The import of 
copper ingots was 205,749 cwts. as against 61,- 
397 in 1904; iron and sheet angles, nail rods, etc., 
nails, sheets and plates, galvanized iron sheets 
and plates, pig and bar lead and zinc, 412,052 



cwts. as against 139,901 in 1904. The import of 
hardware amounted to £38,211 as agaist £22,883 
in 1904; of machinery, to £96,498 as against 
£85,422; of kerosene, to 35,489,571 galls, as 
against 28,912,554; of engine oil, 938,909 galls, 
as against 182,559; of hard timber, 1,032,724 
cu. ft. (decrease) as against 1,189,917; of soft 
timber, 19,489,186 sq. ft. (decrease) as against 
23,784,216 in 1904. 

Ten thousand two hundred and sixty-five ves- 
sels, representing a total tonnage of 14,344,162, 
entered and cleared the port of Shanghai during 
1905 as compared with 9,434 vessels with a total 
tonnage of 12,181,798 in 1904. Of these figures 
for 1905, 9,139 vessels (14,125,919 tons) were 
steamers and 1,126 (218,243 tons) sailing ships. 
Of the former the British led the list with 4,363 
(7,114,248 tons), and next in order came Chi- 
nese, German and Norwegian vessels. 




63 



THE BUND — SHANGHAI 

CLUBS AND SOCIETIES.— Of clubs and 
societies Shanghai has an abundant number, 
among which may be mentioned St. George's As- 
sociation, American Association of China (exist- 
ing to "further and safeguard the interests of the 
citizens of the United States in China, Japan, 
Korea, the Philippine Islands and elsewhere in 
Asia ; to gather and distribute information" ) ; 
Deutsche Vereinigung (German Association, for 
the purpose of furthering German interests, es- 
pecially those of commercial character, in the 
Far East) ; the Club Concordia, erected by the 
German community of Shanghai, and occupied in 
February, 1907, is the most attractive building in 
the city, designed in the style of the German Ren- 
aissance, crowned by a graceful corner tower, 
which makes the building a conspicuous land- 
mark and a decided addition to the architectural 
beauty of the city ; the Swiss Community ( whose 




L. MOORE a COMPANY 

CONNOISSEURvS AND COLLECTORS OF 

Genuine Old Chinese 
Porcelains and Curios 




ESTABLISHED 1874 



Correspondence Invited 



Kian^se Road, Shanghai, China 



64 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



object is to help necessitous Swiss, and to form 
a rallying point for the nation in the East) ; the 
China Association; St. Andrew's Society; Asso- 
ciation of British Colonies in the Far East; St. 
Patrick's Society of Shanghai ; Association of 
Lancasterians in Shanghai ; Shanghai Club ; 
Country Club ; Masons' Club ; Mercantile Marine 
Officers' Association ; Shanghai Marine Engi- 
neers' Institute ; Young Men's Christian Associa- 
tion of Shanghai; Customs' Club; Volunteer 
Club; Club Portuguez. 

LITERARY AND EDUCATIONAL AS- 
SOCIATIONS.— China Branch of the Royal 
Asiatic Society ; Photographic Society : Union 
Church Literary and Society Guild ; American 
Women's Literary Association ; Horticulture 
Society ; American University Club. 

PROFESSIONAL AND BUSINESS AS- 
SOCIATIONS. — Chamber of Commerce : 
Stockbrokers' Association, office No. 4 Bund ; the 
Pilots' Association, offices No. 5 Peking Road ; 
Yangtze Pilots' Association ; Shanghai Society 
of Engineers and Architects. 



PHILANTHROPIC SOCIETIES.— Society 

for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals : Shang- 
hai Benevolent Society ; Shanghai Seamen's Mis- 
sion ; Shaftesbury Home ; Coffee Tavern ; First- 
aid Association; Shanghai "Florence Crittenton" 
Home; Shanghai Recreation Fund. 

SPORTING CLUBS.— Cricket Club; Rac^ 
Club ; Amateur Dramatic Club of Shanghai : 
Societe Dramatique Francaise ; Shanghai Rowing 
Club; Shanghai Golf Club; Paper Hunt Club; 
Shanghai Yacht Club ; Midget Sailing Club ; Re- 
creation Club ; Football Club ; Polo Club ; Shang- 
hai Drag-Hunt Club ; Baseball Club ; Gun Club ; 
Sporting Gun Club ; Swimming-Bath Club : 
Shanghai Hockey Club ; Tennis, Bowling Alley, 
Rifle Association ; Smoking Concert Club. 

FREEMASONRY.— The jMasonic body is a 
very large and influential one in Shanghai. Ac- 
cording to Gratton's "Freemasonry in Shanghai 
and North China" there was a "warrant granted 
to the Northern Lodge of China, No. 570, E. C," 
on December 27, 1849. The "first English Mark 
Masters' Lodge" was held on December 15, 1854. 
Very little was accomplished in Masonic circles 
during the fifties, due to the disturbed state of the 
country ; but from the middle of the sixties on 
Masonry made rapid advances. The Masonic 
Charity Fund is an important institution in 
Shanghai, administering relief, maintaining 
nurseries and awarding scholarships in the pub- 
lic school, etc. 

In reviewing the list of clubs, societies and or- 
,ganizations it will easily be noticed that the 
English predominate. 



GARDENS. — There are severarvery interest- " 
ing gardens in Shanghai, among them the 
"Chang-Su-Ho Gardens" at the end of an open- 
ing on the left of Bubbling Well Road, just past 
Yates Road; the hall is one of the handsomest 
buildings in Shanghai, and the gardens are fine, 
about twelve years old, and with new attractions 
added under the present management, such as a 
water chute and cycle track. The refreshments 
to be obtained are of the best quality. From the 
new Garden Road (leading into Sinza Road, 
thence to the Well) you reach the Cross Road 
and the Yu Yuen Gardens, which you must not 
fail to visit. To those who have never seen them, 
Chinese gardens are a delight ; the rockwork 
artificiall}' made, well stocked with flowers in 
summer, lily ponds, zig-zag bridges and alcoves. 




63 



C. C. A. WARNj 
Manager Palace Hotel, Shanghai 

all tell that one is in China, where the most is 
made of small available space. In a large two- 
storied refreshment room the visitor can have tea 
served in Chinese or foreign style. No fear need 
be entertained regarding the food supplied ; Chi- 
nese sweets and confectionary can be sampled 
without the least danger. 

BUBBLING WELL.— The world-renowned 
"Bubbling Well," of which it is said if you look 
into its depths you will see your future wife or 
husband, is a spring encased in a square, stone 
enclosure, and its muddy water is charged with 
carbonic acid gas. The well is very nicely situ- 
ated, ^nd hear by, nestled in the- foliage, is the 
famous St. George's Hotel, directly at the end of 
Bubbling Well Road, an especially attractive and 




ST. GEORGE'S HOTEL 

Situated at the terminal of Bubbling Well Road 
SHANGHAI, CHINA 

THIS HOTEL MAKES A SPECIALTY OF SERVING PRIVATE DINNERS 

This popular society resort is without rival in the East; situated at the terminal of Shanghai's most pict- 
uresque and interesting driveway, it sits back from the road in a finely kept grounds, containing a profusion 
of palms, ferns, Hao trees, the Banyan trees and flowers of all kinds. 

This is the only attractive and comfortable place in which to spend an evening after the fatigue of a day 
of sightseeing. With broad verandas, a spacious dining room open on all sides and decorated with drooping 
ferns and flowers, makes it the most comfortable dining room to be found in the Far East. Well appointed 
equipment, attentive servants, with an exceptionally good string orchestra, you cannot help enjoying your- 
selves, among the fair ladies and well-groomed gentlemen of Shanghai's best society. A truly enjoyable ex- 
perience, and one to be ever remembered with a traveler's most pleasant memories of an Oriental trip. 

SPECIAL DINNERS PREPARED AT SHORT NOTICE FOR BANQUETS, WEDDINGS, ETC. 



ELECTRIC CARS PASS THE DOOR EVERY FIVE MINUTES 




66 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



comfortable place in which to spend a few en- 
joyable hours. Its broad verandas, perfect equip- 
ment, attentive servants, an exceptionally good 
orchestra, its cool and waving tropical plants, and, 
above all, the fair ladies and well-groomed gen- 
tlemen of Shanghai's best society, together form 
a combination that tends to make a truly enjoy- 
able experience, ever afterward to be associated 
with the traveler's most pleasant memories of an 
Oriental trip. 

PHYSICAL FEATURES.— The visitor to 
Shanghai cannot be refreshed by the sight of 
mountains. The great plain stretches to the 
Tahu Lake on the west, to the Yangtze on the 
north, say 150 by 100 miles, broken only by a 
few hills — ^"The Hills," twenty miles west of 
Shanghai, were once islands in the sea. The 
whole plain is cultivated like a garden. It is 
divided into an infinite number of small holdings, 
which yield to the patient farmer the utmost 
limit. All semi-tropical products thrive, as do 
also those of the warmer parts of the temperate 
zone. Those of the strictly temperate zone grow, 
but mature too quickly. Large crops of wheat 
and millet are harvested in autumn, the network 
of canals affording abundance of water, pumped 
up into the fields by water-wheels, driven either 
by the familiar water-buffalo or by men on a 
treadmill. To see them for hours together on 
the embankments treading the paddles is one of 
the sights of China. 

VEGETATION.— Cotton is grown in con- 
siderable quantities, and among the cotton seed 
beans are sown. The beans manage to thrive 
even in winter and are ready for gathering in 
spring. Around Soochow vast acres of beauti- 
ful lily ponds abound. There are small mulberry 
plantations, but the systematic culture of the silk 
worm is carried on farther north. 

Of vegetables there exist all varieties, includ- 
ing Irish potatoes, sweet potatoes, melons, egg- 
plant, chili, cabbage, asparagus, carrots and tur- 
nips — all of which can be had. the year jound. 

Fine fruits of excellent quality and flayer grow 
in prolific quantities. Shanghai is noted for its 
deliciously flavored peaches, and its beboes, a 
golden-skinned fruit from a specie of laurel tree ; 
its melons are excellent, and to taste the Shanghai 
cantaloupe and persimmons is quite worth the 
time and money spent in traveling a considerable 
distance. There are plums, "Chinese dates," 
litches, bananas, mangoes, oranges from the 
south, and grapes from the north. There are 
probably but few places in the world so richly 
supplied with a variety of fruits as Shanghai. > 

Every variety of flowers thrives, the tea rose, 
climbing geranium, pansy, violet, golden rod, 
coxcomb, tulip, geranium, hyacinth, forget-Aie- 
not, all grow in profusion; even the dahlia for- 
gets the proper time for blooming and appears 
together with the daisy. 



METEOROLOGY.— The visitor to Shang- 
hai will find the weather tropical, temperate or 
frosty, and even bitterly cold, according to the 
season at which he arrives. Generally speaking, 
the climate may be described as tropical for one- 
third of the year, and temperate for the remain- 
ing two-thirds. There are two drawbacks to- 
ward a perfect climate : the great range of tem- 
perature, occasionally up to 40° in a day — the^, 
mean daily range for the year being 18° — and the"> 
damp nature of the climate, the average degree 
of saturation for the year being 82 out of a pos- 
sible 100. As compensation there is almost con- 
tinuous, brilliant sunshine, even during the 
coldest season. Three cloudy days in succession 
are unusual. 

Barometer, mean, for the last year was 30.03 




67 



ADOLPHE JOV-\NSEN, 
Manager St. George's Hotel, Shanghai, 

inches. Thermometer (Fahrenheit), mean, 
58° 2'; first quarter, 40° 2'; second quarter, 
63° 8; third quarter, 76° 2'; fourth quarter, 
52° 5'. The greater share of rain falls in the 
summer, but the visitor need not be alarmed at 
the amount. In Shanghai, when it rains it rains 
heavily; the weather is either wet or fine; 
showers there are unknown. Brilliant sunshine 
is the rule. Hail seldom falls. Thunderstorms 
are not so frequent or as severe as might be ex- 
pected. Very little snow falls, and that usually 
in December or January, and about the time of 
the Chinese New„.Year,,(iatter part«f^-Febr>aary). 

HEALTH. — Although semi-tropical, the cli- 
mate of Shanghai is -comparatively healthful. 
The drainage is excellent, in spite of ifie fact 



THE HOTEL DES COLONIES OF SHANGHAI 

Rue de Consulate and RueMontauban : CableAddress, "Colonies" Shanghai 




DINING-ROOM 



PRIVATE BAR 



Strictly [first-class. 
Prequented^ and pat- 
ronized byj-'i Shang- 
hai's leading residents . 

This hotel has the 
most comfortable Din- 
ing-Room to be found 
anywhere in the Far 
East. Its decorations 
and heavy damask 
tapestry make it most 
inviting. A complete 
system of electric 
lighting. 

The apartments of 
the upper stories are 
made attractive by 
the careful arrange- 
ments of details that 
tend to serve the per- 
sonal comfort of 
guests. 

This hotel has the 
largest suites to be 
found in theCity, and 
has long since been 
the only first - class 
Hotel on the French 
Concession. 

Private Dining - Rooms 
Weddings, Dinners, etc. 




presided over by an 
experienced French 
Chef and is admitted 
to be the best in the 
City. 

Comfortable read- 
ing rooms, replete 
with all the late pub- 
lications of the day. 
Private Tea Rooms 
for ladies. Private 
Bar stocked with the 
best vintages of 
France and the prin- 
cipal wine -growing 
countries. 



HALL 



for!||^Banquets, 
The Cuisine is 



Special Feature: 
This hotel maintains 
a staff of competent 
Guides who can be 
relied upon to show 
the traveler over the 
City and outlying 
country. There are 
many places of un- 
usual interest in 
Shanghai which the 
average traveler and 
tourist would never see unless he was direct- 
ed to them by one of these Hotel Guides. 



All languages spoken. 



Interpreters meet all steamers and trains arriving and departing 
Mr. J. M. TAVARES, Manager 



68 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



that it is on the sea level. Including the shipping 
population and non-residents, the death rate of a 
year ago was only 21.9 per 1,000. The chief 
cause of death was attributed to tuberculosis and 
alcoholism. Cases of malaria are of a very mild 
type and are yearly decreasing in number. Ty- 
phoid, though more prevalent than in America, is 
of a milder form. Cholera need not be seriously 
feared. There was an outbreak in 1902, but not 
a single case was reported from 1897 to 1902. 
In 1896 there were ten cases ; in 1895 there were 
twenty. Of the total 128 deaths in 1901, 30 per 
cent, of the number were of persons from fifty to 
eighty )'ears of age. 

THEATRES.— There is but one European 
theatre, situated on Museum Road, with its 
stage entrance on the Yuen-ming-yuen Road. 
This theatre has been newly fitted up and deco- 
rated. It is the only one in the East, outside of 
Saigon, Cochin China, that is high enough for 
the stage scenery to be lifted up to the flies. In 
the Native City you will find plenty of Chinese 
theatres of the first order, noted mainly for their 
gorgeous costuming and not ( at least to the 
foreign ear ) for their music. 

SCHOOLS.— Schools for the education of 
the Chinese people in Western knowledge and 
in English are multiplying rapidly. A visit to 
one or more of these would be of great interest. 
There are various missionary colleges, of which 
the principal ones are : St. John's College, the 
Anglo-Chinese College, the Anglo-Chinese 
School, the London Mission College, the Ellis 
Kadoorie School, the Cantonese School. . A Chi- 
nese public school will shortly be erected on the 
North Szechuen Road Extension. This school is 
the outcome of the idea that, as the Chinese pay 
so large a portion of the taxes, it is only right 
that some educational advantages be provided for 
them. The Council has furnished the site, and 
wealthy Chinamen, such as Chun Fai Ting, the 
late Tong Kidson and others, are responsible for 
a donation of 30,000 taels for the building. 

THE BRITISH SETTLEMENT. — The 

foreign settlement was the result of the war de- 
clared by Great Britain against China in 1839, on 
the conclusion of the military operations in the 
south, including the taking of Hongkong in 1841. 
The British fleet captured Amoy, the Chusans 
and Ningpo ; and on June 16, 1842, Sir William 
Parker, the British admiral, with Sir Hugh 
Gough, the commander of the military forces, 
took Woosung, with 134 guns, also Paoshan, a 
little walled city three miles up the Yangtze side. 
After a survey of the river, on June 17th Lieu- 
tenant-Colonel Montgomery led a force of 1,000 
men inland from Woosung and advanced on 
Shanghai, the fleet following up the river. A few 
shots were fired at the invaders from the forts 



then standing on the present site of the British 
Consulate, but no harm was done, and the city 
was found deserted, most of the inhabitants flee- 
ing at sight of the enemy. The foreigners were 
well received by those remaining, and the people 
soon returned to the city. Stores had been taken ; 
sixty-eight guns were captured at Shanghai, 
seventeen being of copper, newly cast ; fifty-six 
were taken in the battery. Altogether 171 were 
captured. The ransom for Shanghai paid by 
China was $300,000. 

FOUNDING OF THE FOREIGN SET- 
TLEMENT.— On the arrival of Sir Henry Pot- 
tinger after the conclusion of peace, the forma- 
tion of a foreign settlement was decided upon. 
Its bounds were the Yang-king-pang Creek on 
the south, the Whang-poo on the east, the present 
Peking Road on the north. It must be clearly 




J. II. TAVARES, 
Manager Hotel des Colonies, Shanghai 

understood that Shanghai has been from the be- 
ginning a settlement, not a possession. The 
British Government annexed Hongkong, which 
became British territory and subject to British 
law. The land on which the Foreign Settlement 
of Shanghai was created was, on the other hand, 
only leased to the British Government. 

THE AMERICAN SETTLEMENT. — In 

December, 1863, Hongkew, or the American Set- 
tlement, was formally incorporated with the so- 
called British Settlement. Its residents were to 
pay half the cost of policing, that being consid- 
ered a fair proportion. It does not appear that 
the United States ever received any concession 



69 



The Hotel Metropole 



Bubbling Well Road 

Opposite the Race Course 



This well-known hostelry is one of the most comfortable and 
homelike to be found in the Empire of China, situated on the princi- 
pal street of the City, within three minutes' ride by Electric Car from 
the landing and is entirely removed from the hubbub of traffic. 

The Hotel Metropole is a first-class hotel affording ever}' 
modern luxury and comfort that can be expected in the best hotels 
at the disposal of its guests. The dining-room has a seating capacity 
of over two hundred people. 

The rooms of the upper stories are made inviting by the per- 
fect arrangement of those little details that go to serve the per- 
sonal comfort of its guests. Each room is an outside room facing 
the Shanghai Race Course, which in the summer months the 
Southern winds has full sweep through every room. 

Bright and cheerful effects have been studied in the furnish- 
ings, ventilation, lights, etc. Bath rooms adjoining sleeping cham- 
bers are models of the newest Shanghai types. 

Rapid Transit Electric Cars pass the Main Entrance. Re- 
frigerator and Steam Laundry on the premises. Accommodations 
are unexcelled. 

The Metropole Hotel is an up-to-date establishment, man- 
aged along Cosmopolitan lines, with an excellent American Bar, 
Billiard Rooms, Private Dining Rooms, Private Reception and Tea 
Rooms. 



Rates : Four, Five and Six Dollars per day 

SPECIAL TERMS TO MONTHLY BOARDERS 



HOTEL METROPOLE CO., LTD., C. A. BIDDLE, 

Proprietors. Manager. 



From. Occident to Orient and Around the World 



of what is called the American Settlement, or that 
it was specially set apart for citizens of the 
United States. No negotiations were ever en- 
tered into between the United States and China 
regarding Hongkew. The treaty between China 
and the United States gave citizens of the latter 
the same right ite. acquire lands for residence and 
other puproses/aiid this was made use of prob- 
ably about 1850. Some years afterwards the 
United States Consulate was established in 
Hongkew, and an American church and mission 
houses were built there, and hence the district 
became generally known as the American Settle- 
ment. 

FRENCH SETTLEMENT.— The French, 
who took part with the British in the conquest of 
Shanghai, had a settlement granted to them in 
June, 1849, by "Luh, intendant of Soochow and 
the viceroy of the Two Kwangs," with the usual 
rights of French subjects. The district allotted 
to France is contiguous to the wall of the Native 
City. It is bounded on the east by the Whang- 
poo, on the west by the temple of the god of war, 
on the north by the Yang-king-pang Creek, and 
on the south by the Native City. The Settlement 
was enlarged westward in 1899. 

The history of the French Settlement is very 
much the same as that of the International Set- 
tlement, except that the French have had more 
conflicts with the natives than the British and 
Americans. It is governed by a Municipal Coun- 
cil composed of Frenchmen, and is entirely sepa- 
rate from the International Settlement. 

GOVERNMENT OF THE INTER- 
NATIONAL SETTLEMENT.— The task of 
discharging municipal control has caused much 
trouble in Shanghai, as the enormous difference 
in number between the Chinese inhabitants and 
Occidental residents create an obstacle difficult 
to overcome. The foreign settlers govern the 
natives as well as themselves within the limits 
of the Settlements. Juridically the subjects and 
citizens of the treaty powers are amenable to their 
own consular courts only, and the Chinese with- 
in the settlement are civilly and criminally respon- 
sible to a mixed court over which a Chinese 
official presides, foreign assessors from the dif- 
ferent consulates in turn watching the cases. But 
all functions connected with the practical preser- 
vation of peace and good order are discharged 
l)y the foreign residents, who, for that purpose, 
have organized a kind of republic, having for its 
executive head a Municipal Council, and for its 
judicial tribunal a Court of Consuls. The United 
States appointed a Superior Judge for the Em- 
pire of China, with headquarters at Shanghai, 
and all cases in which American subjects are 
involved are heard before him. 

In December, 1905, differences arose between 
the local Chinese and British officials regarding 



the jurisdiction of the British Assessor of the 
Mixed Court, leading to a situation that called 
for the intervention of an armed foreign force. 
Some prisoners, among whom were one or two 
women, were brought before the court charged 
with kidnapping. Owing to suspicious circum- 
stances connected with the case, the British As- 
sessor, in order to prevent undue influence being 
used, ordered the case adjourned and the prison- 
ers confined in the municipal jail, where they 
would be properly treated and free from inter- 
ference. The magistrate, carefully primed by the 
Taotai Yuen in the new principle of seeing in 
every remonstrance some interference with the 
dignity of the Empire, attempted to intermeddle 
by force, but naturally ineffectually. Unfortu- 
nately the Taotai, instead of attempting to peace- 
fully settle the question, took the unwise course 
of seeking to inflame the prejudices of his sub- 
jects. Consequently inflammatory placards were 
posted throughout the city urging a general strike 
for the purpose of asserting so-called Chinese 
rights, and on the i8th of December serious riot- 
ing occurred in the streets, where several foreign- 
ers were killed. The municipal police, assisted by 
armed blue- jackets from the international fleets, 
fired upon the rioters, killing many before they 
were convinced that their conduct was ill-advised. 
The Viceroy himself came to Shanghai to 
settle the dispute, and the Mixed Court, after 
being closed for a fortnight, re-opened with Mr. 
Twyman, the British Assessor (whose dismissal 
the Taotai had demanded) still on the bench. • 

POST-OFFICE.— Each Consulate of the dif- 
ferent powers has its separate post-office where 
the rates charged for correspondence are the 
same as those at home. The traveler is cautioned 
to have all mail directed to his respective consul, 
and not to the general post-office conducted by 
the imperial posts of China. In dispatching mail 
it should also be done through his consular office. 
At the American Consular post-office money 
orders can be drawn on any part of the United 
States, or on any of her possessions. 

SHANGHAI "NATIVE CITY." — Those 
who have never seen a Native City, or the 
Chinese in their home haunts, should not neglect 
visiting Shanghai Native City, which lies just 
south of the French Concession. It is almost cir- 
cular in form ; the walls of black brick are three 
miles in circumference, with 3,600 rifle holes and 
twenty towers, or guardhouses, for defense. 
Some of these latter are now temples. A ditch, 
or moat, runs around the walls thirty feet in 
width, the original width having been sixty feet. 

The best way to see the city, after procuring 
from your hotel a reliable guide, is to enter by 
the New North Gate, at the south end of the 
Rue Montauban. You will cross a wooden bridge 
leading into the city, which is always crowded 



71 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



with water-carriers, sedans, bamboo-coolies, 
wheelbarrows and general passengers on their 
way to and from the busy city. On all sides are 
dingy looking houses, stores of every descrip- 
tion, earthenware factories, etc. At every turn 
you will be accosted by beggars with self-made 
or "manufactured" sores and crippled limbs ; 
these are professionals under the reign of a beg- 
gar-king. Inside the outer gate is what was 
called, in medijeval times, the "inner bailey," for 
defensive purposes — a square enclosure, at the 
southern side of which is the actual New North 
Gate through the wall. 

Directly after passing the gate you confront a 
picturesque square where sedan chairs are manu- 
factured. An old guardhouse has been con- 
verted into a temple; it is found immediately on 
the right. It is the Tsung Woo Day. Down- 
stairs is an image of Way- 
doo ; upstairs is an oblong 
apartment with an image of 
the Emperor Ye Fung of 
this dynasty, who was on the 
throne when the temple was 
erected. On his left is a 
shrine to Kwangti (God of 
War), on his right to Mi- 
doo, and the San Quay, the 
Three Pure Ones, a Taoist 
trinity. A long, straight 
street leads from the east 
side of this square toward 
the centre of the city. This 
you will find the best street 
in the city. It is liberally 
strewn with ivory, sandal- 
wood and fan shops. Ver\' 
beautiful articles may b; 
seen in process of manufac- 
ture — ivory gods, chop- 
sticks, chess-men, umbrella 
handles, etc. There are 
shops for brass ware, Ning- 
po pewter, silk, silk tassels, porcelain. In the 
summer time, when these narrow streets are can- 
opied over with blue cloth, they have the effect 
of one vast bazaar. The streets are just wide 
enough for two sedan chairs to pass without col- 
liding, and no more; they are paved with long 
slabs of Ningpo stone laid longitudinally, and 
their surfaces are worn to a high polish by the 
millions of padded feet passing daily over them. 

Turning to your left along a creek side, then 
crossing a bridge to the right, brings you to the 
famous tea-house, the Woo Sing Ding, the City 
Temple and smaller shrines, along with the two 
characteristically Chinese gardens, the East and 
West Gardens, which are open at all times upon 
payment of a small fee to the attendants. The 
story tells that the whole of these buildings and 
gardens were originally a palace built by an am- 
bitious and wealthy Mandarin, in the reign of 



Kiel Tsing, A. D. 1537. His sole desire was to 
have a palace as elaborate and costly as the Em- 
peror's. A knowledge of this plan came to the 
Emperor, who violently disapproved of the pro- 
ject, and to save himself from the silken cord the 
Mandarin made his place over to the city, which 
has ever since used it as a tea-house, temple and 
gardens for the benefit of the people. 

It will be sufficient to visit one of these gardens^ 
for they are much alike. Quaint rockwork, wind- 
ing paths, arbors, curiously shaped doors and- 
gateways are peculiar to all of them. Tea may 
be had, and excellent studies for the photographer- 
abound in this entire group of buildings. 

Next visit the tea-house, the Woo Sing Ding, 
It is a picturesque building on stone pillars in a 
pool, approached by zig-zag bridges. Straight 
ones would be unlucky, as the Chinese believe 




SHANGHAI WHEELBARROW 



that evil spirits travel along straight lines and 
are baffled by crooked ones. Hence there are 
curved roofs on Chinese houses, and herein lies 
the reason for one objection by Chinese to rail- 
roads and their lengths of straight line. Sur- 
rounding the pool are numerous picturesque tea- 
houses. The open ground about the pool pre- 
sents a fine study of Chinese life — dentists, doc- 
tors, toy-sellers, cooks, jugglers, fakirs, gamblers. 
The latter will spread before you a three-card 
monte game and make all kinds of efforts to get 
you to locate the winning card. Near the pool 
are three bird markets stocked with a wonderful 
variety of birds from all parts of the Empire and 
southern countries. 

The Vung Tsang Dien should next be visited ; it 
is dedicated to the God of Scholars,, called locally 
Vung Tsang. His name is usually written Wen- 
chang when romanised. He is the god of litera- 



73 




7 



THE 



POPULAR » SCOTCH WH/SKY 'is f 



•• 



BLAGK& WHITE 




From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



ture ; "a constellation," part of Ursa Majoy, is 
named after him ; "the wheel of transmigration 
turned seventeen times the fate of Wenchang. 
The most distinguished metempsychosis was a 
snake, which revenged the wrongs done to his 
ancestors. He then met with Buddha, who for- 
gave his sins, allowed him to throw off the ser- 
pent's coil and return as a man. He is one of a 
triad with Confucius and the God of War. It is 
said that Wenchang prevents the vicious, even 
though, learned, from obtaining an academic 
degree."' 

A few very interesting hours may be spent in 
walking around the great stone wall which sur- 
roimds the Native City. The circuit of the wall 
is between three and four miles, and the distance 
can be walked in one hour. From the top of the 
wall you can see nothing but a mass of buildings 
with black-tiled roofs. In these cjuaint surround- 
ings you will see the Chinese 
as they were thousands of years 
ago, and possibly the same way 
thev will appear to generations 
a thousand years hence. 

EXCURSION BY RAIL 
TO "WOOSUNG.— To those 
who have a little time to spare 
and who want to be able to say 
that they have had a railroad 
ride in China this trip is ear- 
nestl}' advised, in order that the 
tourist may acquaint himself 
with the country around Shang- 
hai. The railway station is at 
the end of Xorth Honan Road, 
and the way to it is either b\- 
the Soochow Creek side to 
Xorth Honan Road, then 
straight on : or up North Sze- 
chuen Road, then turn to the left 
up Range Road till the head of 
North Honan Road is reached. 

A peculiar incident relative to the Chinese an- 
tipathy against new institutions is worth relating 
here. In 1876 a foreign company built and 
opened a railway connecting the city with Woo- 
sung, a distance of about thirty miles ; but after 
running for si.xteen months it was taken over in 
purchase by the Chinese authorities. During the 
short time it had been in operation the traffic 
alone covered the expenses, leaving sufficient 
funds to pay a small dividend. Notwithstanding 
this, the Chinese immediately proceeded to de- 
molish everything connected with the road, en- 
gines, cars, buildings and all, so that in a ver)' 
short time there was nothing remaining to indi- 
cate that there had ever been a railroad. This 
road was rebuilt in 1898 and opened to traffic on 
the 1st of September of that year. Needless to 
say, it has not been interfered with and has paid 
handsomely from the first. It is wow very popu- 



lar with the Chinese ; the carriages are neat, clean 
and comfortable, fitted with sliding panels of blue 
glass to shade the e)'es from the glare of the 
summer sun. 

At Woosung you will find excellent accommo- 
dation at the "Woosung Hotel," and after a 
hearty and enjoyable midday meal (tiffin) j'ou 
may enjo)' a ride on a Chinese wheelbarrow to 
the old forts, where the native officials made an 
attempt to check the invading army and ships of 
Great Britain in 1842. 

HOUSEBOAT EXCURSIONS.— Shanghai 

is noted for its comfortable houseboats, and 
visitors not pressed for time ought to make a trip 
up country by this means of transportation. A 
very suitable and commodious boat can be hired 
for five or six dollars per day, and a trip thus 
undertaken will not only constitute a very restful 




CHINESE JUNK 

and enjoyable holiday, but also afford the West- 
erner a sight of Chinese rural life and scener)'. 

TRANSPORTATION.— Shanghai is amply 
supplied with means of transportation ; its local 
steamship lines plying to all Asiatic ports, as Foo- 
chow, Hankow, Tsingtau, Chefoo, Tientsin, 
Korea, Japan, Alanchuria, Formosa, Hongkong, 
Strait Settlement, Philippines and Java ; while 
the four European lines make Shanghai a port 
of call en route to Japan, and the three lines be- 
tween the United States and Hongkong also call 
regularly at Shanghai. A dail}^ service of pas- 
senger and freight steamers affords convenient 
accommodation to Hankow, 580 miles up the 
Yangtze River. The most comfortable of these 
river steamers are those owned by Racine, Acker- 
mann & Co., the fleet being known as the "French 
Line." These magnificent steamers v^'ere built in 



The Shanghai Tu^ and 
Lighter Co., Ltd. 



: OWNERS OF 



MAIL TENDERS, POWERFUL 
TOW BOATS. AND A LARGE 
FLEET OF STEEL LIGHTERS 



CALL FLAG "U" INTERNATIONAL CODE 




An EMPLOYE of the company will always 

be found at WOOSUNG who will forward 

such orders as may be required. 



Hong Name — Wai Tah Foong 



WHEELOCK fii COMPANY 

AGENTS 

No. 2 French Bund, Shanghai, China 



76 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



France and brought out to the Orient under their 
own steam ; constructed of steel and equipped 
with the most powerful engines to enable them to 
make good time against the current of the river. 
The staterooms are remarkably large, averaging 
IOXI2 feet, furnished with two brass bedsteads, 
each separated from the other by heavy, elaborate 
curtains ; the stateroom equipment also includes 
writing desks, running water, portable electric 
lights, and all modern conveniences. Each 
steamer is fitted out with several staterooms de 
luxe, with sitting room, bedroom, private bath 
and toilet, writing desks and wardrobes in a 
suite. The dining hall is very unique, furnished 
with a number of small tables, so that a group of 
people traveling together may enjoy more 
privacy by having a table to themselves. These 
ships can be counted among the best in China for 
speed, comfort and elegance of service. 

Leaving Shanghai for Hankow via the French 
Line, you will enjo}' a very delightful trip, travel- 
ing as . you do about 600 miles up the Yangtze 
River, the longest and most important body of 



water in China, having a length of over 3,000 
miles and draining an area of between 650,000 
and 700,000 square miles. It has its origin in a 
number of small rivulets which, from a height of 
over 16,000 feet above the sea level, dash down 
the northern slope of the snow-covered Tang-la 
Mountains of Tiljet, near latitude 33° 45' N., and 
longitude 90° E. This great river drains the 
entire provinces of Hu-peh, Hu-nan, Ngan-hwei, 
Kiang-si and Kiang-su ; and in latitude 31° 25' 
N., and longitude 122° 14' E., it pours into the 
Yellow Sea 770,000 cubic feet of water per 
second, and annually deposits into it about 
6,000,000,000 cubic feet of suspended matter. 

The traveler should avail himself of this 
method of penetrating into the heart of the Em- 
pire. The ever-changing panorama that files by 
as you laboriously move up the river will reveal 
to you more knowledge of China in a short period 
than 3'ou could gain in a lifetime living in one of 
the coast ports ; and you will thus be able to visit 
the ancient capital of China, "Nanking," and 
many other cities on your cruise up the river. 



Hankow 



HANKOW is a very important river and 
commercial port of China, situated in the 
very heart of the Empire, 600 miles from 
the sea, on the left bank of the Yangtze, at the 
point here it is joined by the River Han, in lati- 
tude 30° 32' N., longitude 114° 19' E. It occu- 
pies the angle formed by the junction of these 
two rivers, stretching along the east or left bank 
of the Han for over two and one-half miles, and 
eastward along the left or north bank of the 
Yangtze for one mile. 

Adjoining the native town on the east is the 
foreign settlement, originally a British conces- 
sion, but thrown open to all foreigners by the 
British Government shortly after the opening of 
the port in 1861. The settlement extends along 
the Yangtze for a distance of about 80Q yards, a 
vi^ide "bund" or esplanade running along its 
entire length. It has fine streets, kept in splendid 
condition by a Mimicipal Council elected by the 
land-renters. Ground-rent is paid to the Chi- 
nese authorities through the British Consul. The 
houses and business buildings are substantially 
built in modern form of architecture. Two good 
hotels afford ample accommodation to the travel- 
ing guest. 

To the east lies the "Concession" more recent- 
ly acquired by the French, Russians and Ger- 
mans, and the foreign water front has now a 
length of over three miles. Another new con- 
cession has just lately been granted, by China to 
the Japanese on the south or Wu-chang side of 
the Yangtze, where foreigners may build busi- 
ness and residential houses. 

West of the native town, and across the Han, 



is the departmental city of Han-yang, to which 
Hankow { which is not a city ) is subordinate ; 
and directly across the Yangtze from Han-yang 
stands the large and imposing city of Wu-chang- 
fu, capital of the Province of Hu-peh, and the 
seat of the Governor-General (or Viceroy) of 
the two Provinces of Hu-nan and Hu-peh, united- 
ly known as Hu-kwang or Liang Hu — that is, 
"the two Hu." These three centres of popula- 
tion are included in the port and custom district 
of Hankow, and situated in the midst of an un- 
paralleled network of rivers and lakes they form 
the most important commercial community of 
the country. Their total population is estimated 
at one and one-half million, of which Hankow 
has 800,000, or more than half. Hankow has 
justly been termed the "Hub of China," and all 
through and around it flow the imports and ex- 
ports of a vast district, embracing all of west- 
central and northwest China, together with the 
trade carried on with Tibet and western Mon- 
golia by caravan. Six provinces, with a popula- 
tion of over 160,000,000 people, are included 
within this area of 570,000 square miles, for 
which Hankow is the distributing point. 

Hankow is the first of the "Five Chin," or 
great commercial emporia of the country. Its 
traffic is chiefly distributive in nature, but it has 
some industries, including a cotton mill, a hemp 
factory, a mint and an ore-crushing establishment 
in Wu-chang, and arsenal and great iron and 
steel works in Han-yang ; and a few miles below 
on the river are located the great tanks of the 
Standard Oil Co., capable of holding one million 
tons of oil. The mouth of the Han swarms with 



77 



KIANGNAN 

Dock and Engineering Works 




H. I. C. M. S. KIANG-NAN 



PUMP HOUSE 



KIANGNAN DOCK == Length over all, 385'; length on blocks, 375'; water on sill, 19'; dock 

entrance, top, 70', bottora, 60'. 
The dock accommodates the largest coasting steamers and is equipped with complete modern 

facilities for handling work thoroughly and promptly. 
The new machine and boiler shops, and the foundry and shipbuilding plant are equal to any 

this side of Suez. 
Patent slipway for small steamers and launches. Complete boat and launch building shops. 



CONTRACTORS FOR REPAIRING, DOCKING AND REFITTING THE VESSELS OF 
THE IMPERIAL CHINESE NAVY AND THE IMPERIAL MARITIME CUSTOMS 



SHIPBUILDERS, ENGINEERS 
BOILERMAKERS AND DOCK OWNERS 

Shanghai 



Directors : 

ADMIRAL SAH 
CAPTAIN WOO 

- -Imperial Chinese Navy 



Managers : 
L. BASSE 
R. B. MAUCHAN 



Cable Address : 
"SINODOCK" 



Codes: 

A.B.C. 5th EDITION 
ENGINEERING 
LIBBER'S 
STANDARD 



78 



H. A. 


NA* TALY & COMPANY 

Nankin Road, Shanghai, China 




Import and Export 
Merchants 




Auctioneers 

and 

Coiuuiission Agents 


Sole Agents in China for the 

"Kinsui-Kosens" 

Famous 

Mineral Water 


Pabst 
Milwaukee Beer 


AUKi 


nds of Wines, Liquor 


s. Etc. 



■7^ 



Telegraph Address: 
"SALLAD,' 


' Shanghai 

DALLAS & 

Shanghai 


Codes Used : 
A I, ABC 
Whitelaw's 
Vocahulaire 

CO. 


4th and 
200,000 
' Officiel 


Sth Edition 
Words, and 
18Q4 


IMPORT A\D EXPORT 




MERCHANTS 










Comiiiission, Land and 


Estate 








Agents 








IMPORTERS OF ENGLISH, CONTINENTAL AND 




AMERICAN TEXTILES. LEATHER 


, HARNESS 








AND SADDLE MAKING MATERIALS 








:: :: :: :: A SPECIALTY :: 








WINE, BEER, SPIRITS and PROVISION MERCHANTS 


Agents and Correspondents in all the 
Principal Chinese Treaty Ports 


Correspondence 
German, Dutch, 


in English, French, 
Italian and Spanish 



80 



THE ASTOR STORE 



13 BROADWAY 



SHANGHAI, CHINA 



VIENNA BAKERY 

= AND ^^=^== 

CONFECTIONERY 



CAKE, PASTRY, CANDY AND 
BISCUIT MANUFACTURER 



SPECIAL ATTENTION GIVEN 
TO SHIP'S ORDERS 



All Kinds of Fruits, Provisions, Etc. 



WEINGARTEN BROTHERS 



MUSEUM ROAD 



SHANGHAI, CHINA 



IMPORTERS AND EXPORTERS 
OF ALL KINDS OF 

CHINESE AND 
FOREIGN GOODS 



CORRESPONDENCE 
INVITED 



Proprietors of 
ASTOR STORE and VIENNA BAKERY 



8i 



ONE OF JAPAN'S LEADING USED IN ALL THE FIRST-CLASS 

MINERAL WATERS HOTELS, CLUBS AND STEAMERS 



KINSUI-KOSENS 

^=— FAMOUS =^— = 

MINERAL WATER 



FROM THE WELL-KNOWN KAUAKERA 
SPRINGS IN KUMAMOTO, JAPAN 




H. A. NAFTALY & COMPANY, Sole Agents 

25 NANKIN ROAD, SHANGHAI 



82 



Gompagnie Asiatique de Navigation 

for HANKOW and Ports along 
the great Yangtsze Kiang River 

SPECIAL ACCOMMODATION FOR PASSENGERS CABINES DE LUXE FRENCH CUISINE 




The most luxuriant and comfortable Steamers plying on the River between Shanghai 

and Hankow, China. A tri-weekly service is maintained 

Weinviteinspectionof our:Three:New River Steamers: S.S." LI FONG," S. S. " LIMAO," S S."LITA" 

For passage applyEtoIRACINE ACKERMANN & CO., FRENCH BUND 

8^ 



Telegraphic Address: 

SCHWEIGER 



Codes Used: 

ABC 5th EDITION 

GALLESI 

PRIVATE 



THE SCHWEIGER 
IMPORT AND EXPORT GO, 



LTD. 



General Importers and Exporters 



:0F: 



GOODS OF EVERY DESCRIPTION 



SOLE AGENTS 



Gianelli Majno : 
STERELIZED MILK, DRAGON BRAND 

Martini & Rossi: 
TORINO VERMOUTH 

J. Lindsay & Son: 
GLASGOW EXTRA AGE WHISKEY 

Savoia-Aosta: 
SUPERIOR CHIANTI WINE 

El Venado de la Cruz Brand 
PILSEN BEER 

Asti Wines: 

BARBERA, GRIGNOLINO, BAROLO 

BARBARES CO 

Nocera Umbra: 
NATURAL MINERAL WATER 

Nice Olive Oil: 
RAYON D'OR BRAND 

Italia Brand: 
SUPERIOR LOMBARDY BUTTER 



MILAN, ITALY 

SINGAPORE 

MANILA, PHILIPPINE ISLANDS 

SHANGHAI 

HANKOW 



Shanghai Address: 

BOX 138 
GERMAN POST OFFICE 



84 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 

native shipping, and the scene presented every- north with Canton in the south. The Hankow- 
where is one of vast commercial activity. Peking section (called the Lu-Han Railway) is 
The chief exports comprise tea, rice, silk, to- already completed. The rolling stock is modern 
bacco, beans, coal, hemp, hides, vegetable wax, and plentiful, while the trains which run between 
medicines and wood oil. Tea always forms one Hankow and Peking, and vice versa, are 
of the largest items. In 1906 40,306,654 pounds, equipped with dining cars and sleepers, and 
valued at $5,000,000, were exported direct to equal in appointment and speed to many similar 
foreign countries ; and 30,144,654 pounds, valued trains on European and American lines. The 
at $3,500,000, to China ports, whence, no doubt, best train to travel by leaves Hankow for Peking 
much of it was re-exported to foreign countries, every Wednesday evening. The rates for first 
These figures include the large quantity sent and second class are about nine cents and six 
overland, via Kiahkta, to Russia, as well as that cents per kilometer respectively. The trip 
sent direct by steamer to Odessa — usually the from Hankow to Peking will be found inter- 
finest block tea which can be procured. esting, journeying through the Flowery King- 
Hankow is an important station of the great dom to the ancient capital for a distance of 800 
trunk railway which is to connect Peking in the miles. 

Information Concerning Peking 

FROM the earliest times there has been a city on or near the present site of Peking. In 
937 the Khitan Tartars captured the city and made it one of their capitals. The present 
dynasty has occupied the city since 1643. In i860 Peking was temporarily occupied by 
a French expedition. August 14, 1900, the city was captured by the Allied Powers, and was 
held by them until September, 1901. 

Peking lies in latitude 39° 54' 31" N., and longitude 116° 28' 24" east of Greenwich. It 
is seventy miles southeast of the Great Wall, and one hundred miles from the Gulf of Pe-chi-li. 

POPULATION. — The entire population of Peking is estimated at 1,300,000 — 900,000 in 
the Tartar City, and 400,000 in the Chinese. The foreign population is slightly in excess of 
1,500. 

LEGATIONS. — All international powers have legations, and a number of soldiers from 
their respective governments act as legation guards. 

RAILWAYS. — The city is connected by rail to Tientsin, a distance of seventy miles. The 
Imperial Railway of North China runs to Newchwang and connects vnth the Trans-Siberian 
Railway leading to Europe. The Lu Han Railway is now completed between Hankow and 
Peking, a section of the Great Trunk Line of China. 

To reach Peking the tourist is advised to go via Shanghai up the Yangtze by comfortable 
river steamer to Hankow, thence across to Peking by the Lu Han Railway; for, besides 
traveling in perfect comfort and safety, this route offers the best means of seeing the inter- 
vening section of the Empire. 

CONVEYANCES. — The sedan chair, jinrikisha, Peking cart, mule litter, etc., are the 
principal means of conveyance, for which the tariff varies according to distance, but is about 
the same as in parts of Japan or in Shanghai. 

THE GREAT WALL OF CHINA, — can be easily reached from Peking, a two-days' 
journey by mule or mule litter, or horseback. Four days are necessary to complete the trip, 
returning by way of the famous Ming Tombs. 

HOTELS. — Hotel du Nord and Middle Kingdom, both in the Hatamen Street; Hotel de 
Peking and Grand Hotel, on Austrian glacis. The new Hotel of the Compagnie des Lits 
Internationales was only begun in the spring of 1903. Prices at the existing hotels are mod- 
erate, and Chinese buildings have been adapted to meet European requirements with a good 
deal of skill. The Hotel du Nord has the more fashionable clientele, the Middle Kingdom and 
Grand Hotel have both upper stories ; the latter is, indeed, an European building, and undoubt- 
edly so far the best hotel in Peking. 

CURRENCY. — Prices of most all goods are quoted in taels or syce, but the tourist should 
use only Mexican currency, or the notes of the foreign banks which are issued by authority of 
the Chinese Government. The tael averages $1.33 Mexican, but in different localities it 
differs in value and suffers in daily quotations of exchange. 

85 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



PLACES OF INTEREST THAT SHOULD BE VISITED. 



Booksellers' Street, with curio shops 
Tartar, or Inner City 
Examination Hall, with 10,000 cells 
Marble Bridge 
Imperial Palace 
White Ming Pagoda 
The Great Bell and Drum Tower 
Hall of Classics — Peking University 



Imperial Observatory 
Temple of Heaven 
Temple of Agriculture 
Purple Forbidden City 
Prospect Hill with Temple 
CathoHc Cathedral 
Von Ketteler's Monument 
Summer Palace 



Pek 



PEKING, "Northern Capital," or, in the 
Court dialect, "Pei-Ching," is the capital 
of the Empire of China ; coincident in posi- 
tion and area with the chief city of the Depart- 
ment of Shun-ti'ien-fu, in the Province of Chih-li, 
but not within the jurisdiction of the Governor- 
General or so-called "Viceroy" of Chih-li. It 
has been the seat of the Imperial Government 
since 1409, and is called Peking, or "Northern 
Capital," to distinguish it from Kiang-ning-fu, 
south of the Yangtze, which had been the seat 
of the capital from 1368 to that date, and is now 
known as Nanking. 

Peking is a walled and moated city, with an 
area of about twenty-five square miles, and is 
situated on a sloping plain about twelve miles 
west of the Peiho, seventy miles southeast of the 
Great Wall, and one hundred miles from the 
Taku forts, where the Pei-ho enters the Gulf of 
Pe-chi-li. The Imperial Observatory stands in 
latitude 39° 54' 31" N., and in longitude 116° 
28' 24" east of Greenwich. The elevation above 
the sea is about 120 feet. The city is surrounded 
on three sides by mountains, distant from ten to 
thirty miles, the mountains in the west providing 
cool breathing spots for the foreign residents in 
summer, as well as an abundant supply of coal 
for all seasons. Peking is, in the main, healthful. 
The climate is that of North China generally, in- 
tensely cold in winter, the city, however, being 
sheltered somewhat by the high walls, while the 
heat in summer is great, cooling winds being 
barred out by the height of the walls. 

GENERAL DESCRIPTION.— Peking con- 
sists of two parts of different shapes, sizes and 
dates : the Tartar or "inner" city, which lies to 
the north, and the Chinese or "outer" city, which 
adjoins the other on the south, the south wall of 
the Tartar city forming the main part of the 
north wall of the Chinese city. The former, 
which is nearly square, has a circuit of about 12.3 
English miles, and the latter, which has its 
greatest extension from west to east, is an im- 
perfect parallelogram measuring five miles by 
two. The walls of both cities are of earth and 
concrete, faced within and without with brick. 
Those of the Tartar city are forty feet high, 



ing 

sixty-two feet thick at the base, and thirty-four 
at the top, access from within to the top being by 
stone-paved ramparts. The walls are strength- 
ened at intervals of sixty yards by huge buttresses 
which project outward fifty feet, and the parapets 
of both walls and buttresses are loop-holed and 
crenelated. The Chinese city walls are only 
thirty feet high and twenty-five feet thick at the 
base. These walls are pierced by sixteen gates, 
nine of which are in the Tartar city (three in the 
south wall, communicating with the Chinese city, 
and two in each of the other three sides). Of the 
seven gates in the Chinese city three are in the 
south wall, one in the east wall, one in the west 
and two in those portions of the north wall which 
project east and west for a quarter of a mile 
iDeyond the common wall of the Tartar and 
Chinese cities, and open toward the north. Each 
gate is protected by a demilune or enceinte, and 
is surmounted by a lofty three-storied tower 
ninety-nine Chinese feet (about 119 English feet) 
in height, and covered with green-glazed tiles. 
The Ch-ien men, or "Front Gate," in the centre 
of the south wall of the Tartar city, like the Yung- 
ting gate of the south wall of the Chinese city, 
has three entrances, the one in the centre being 
reserved for the Emperor. All gates are closed 
at sunset. 

The Chinese city, built in 1543, is newer than 
the Tartar city, which was built by Kublai Khan 
in 1267-71. It contains many vacant spaces, but 
the bulk of the population is here. Entering by 
the Yung-ting gate in the south wall, a roadway 
two miles in length leads due north to the Ch'ien- 
men, or "Front Gate," the main entrance to the 
Tartar city. On the right or east side of this 
roadway stands the inclosure (one square mile in 
extent), containing the Altar of Heaven, sur- 
rounded with temples and shrines, including the 
circular triple-roofed Temple of Heaven, about 
119 English feet high. It was burned down in 
1889, but has been rebuilt, Oregon pine being 
used for the pillars. It is roofed with blue por- 
celain tiles. Here, at midnight of the winter 
solstice, the Emperor, after due fasting and 
prayer, worships Shang-ti, the "Supreme Ruler," 
with prayer, hymns, prostrations and burnt-offer- 
ings of oxen, sheep, hares, etc., and of silk, jade 



86 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



and other precious things. On the west side of 
the roadway stands the Temple of Agriculture, 
dedicated to Shin-nung, the "Divine Husband- 
man." In this spot every j^ear at the "opening 
of spring" the Emperor plows a furrow or two 
and thus inaugurates for the year the principal 
industry of his people. In the Chinese city most 
of the mercantile business of the city is carried 
on. It also has a powder factory, an Imperial 
pottery, a mosque and many theatres. Here also 
is the fashionable promenade known as Book- 
sellers Street, where curios of all sorts, precious 
stones, etc., can be bought. Proceeding north- 
ward about half-way to the entrance to the Tartar 
city is a magnificent marble bridge, an essential, 
according to the requirements of Fung-shui (Bad 
Spirit). Within the Tartar city the first im- 
portant cross street to the right is "Legation 
Street," a macadamized thoroughfare, extending 
southeastwardly. Here are the foreign legations, 
the headquarters of the Imperial maritime cus- 
toms, the hotel, the two foreign banks, etc., and 
here the fury of the bloody Boxer outbreak con- 
centrated, as far as the city of Peking was con- 
cerned. 

Immediately north of the Great Gate is a paved 
square bordered by a stone palisade. The Mon- 
gol market is found here. North of this square 
is the outer gate leading to the Hwang-ch'ing, or 
"Imperial City," walled and towered like the 
Tartar city itself. From this a wide avenue leads 
for a quarter of a mile to the inner gate, within 
which, right and left, are seen the temples of 
ancestors and of grain. A mile and a half farther 
brings us to the entrance of the Tsze-kin-ch'ing, 
or "Purple Forbidden City," a great walled in- 
closure with towers on the corners and over the 
gates, one square mile in extent, containing the 
Imperial Palace and its pleasure grounds and 
gardens, as well as the numerous reception halls, 
pavilions and offices required by the Emperor 
and his high officers of state in conducting the 
affairs of his great Empire, all roofed with yellow 
porcelain tiles. North of all this is the beautiful, 
finely wooded, artificial hill called King-shan, or 
"Prospect Hill," 170 feet high, with five peaks, 
each having a Buddhist temple on top, the whole 
surrounded with a park a mile in circuit. Con- 
tinuing northward, the traveler passes through 
the "back gate" into the Imperial City, where is 
the palace of the Ti-tu, or General, who is re- 
sponsible for the peace of the city. Northward 
still is the gate leading from the Imperial into 
the Tartar city. 

It is seen that the Tartar city is really a nest 
of cities, with the Forbidden City in the centre, 
the Forbidden City being surrounded by the 
Hwang, or Imperial City (six miles in circuit), 
containing Government offices, temples, pleasure 
grounds, a beautiful artificial lake on the west 
side, the White Ming pagoda, built on the spot 
where the last Emperor of the Ming dynasty 



87 



hanged himself (1643), the Pei-t'ang, or Roman 
Catholic cathedral, and many elegant residences 
of princes, and of officers of the Government. 
The Tartar city thus surrounds both the For- 
bidden and the Imperial cities. Originally in- 
tended for I\Ianchus alone, it is now largely occu- 
pied by Chinese. It contains the public offices of 
the Eight Boards of Government departments, 
including the Wai Wu Pu, or Foreign Office, 
which recently superseded the Tsung-li Yamen ; 
the Imperial Censorate, the site of the Han-lin, 
adjoining the British Legation on the north and 
burned down, with its unreplaceable libraries, 
during the Boxer disturbances ; the Imperial 
L^niversity ; the Examination Hall, with its 10,000 
cells for the triennial competitive literary exam- 
inations ; the Imperial Observatory ; the Christian 
mission houses, churches and schools in different 
parts of the city (mostly burned down by the 
Boxers) ; Confucian, Buddhist, Taoist and La- 
maistic temples ; a great drum tower, etc. There 
is, in addition, the temple erected in 1578 to 
house the great bronze bell, seventeen feet high, 
twelve feet eight inches in diameter, weighing 
87,000 pounds, cast in the early years of the 
fifteenth century and covered within and with- 
out with quotations from the Buddhist scriptures. 
There is also another Roman Catholic cathedral. 
It is situated in the southwest part of the city. 

The principal streets of Peking are lined with 
shops, gorgeously painted and decorated with 
great pendent signs with gilt characters. At 
times the streets are very noisy and full of ac- 
tivity. Besides the hurrying to and fro of Man- 
darins and their followers, government messen- 
gers, envoys from vassal states and provinces, 
Mongols with their big Bactrian camels, yellow- 
robed Thibetan and Mongol lamas, itinerant 
vendors of amusement, or of infallible medicines, 
or of things to eat or wear, make up a scene of 
great interest. The principal conveyances are the 
sedan chair and the springless covered carts, po- 
htely called "carriages." The smaller streets are 
filthy and vile-smelHng, but since the post-Boxer 
military occupation many improvements have 
been inaugurated by the reforming and progres- 
sive prince in whose charge the streets have been 
placed. The sewers have been thoroughly 
cleaned out, and the practice of sprinkHng the 
dusty roads with the foul liquid from the gutters 
has been suppressed. Macadamizing is every- 
where in progress. 

GOVERNMENT.— The peace of the city is 
in charge of a board, consisting of Chih-fu 
(head of the Department of Shun-t'ien), the two 
Chih-hien (heads of the two prefectures included 
within the city), five members of the Board of 
Censors, and the Ti-tu, or General. Besides the 
military, 12,000 police are subject to this board, 
ten being stationed at each barrier. Each of 
these has 150 runners under him. The Tartar 



From Occident to Orient and Around the ]]'orld 



garrison is divided into eight banners, each in 
three divisions (Mongol, j\Ianchu and Chinese). 

ENVIRONS.— Without the city are many 
points of great interest. On the east side is the 
Temple of the Sun, and on the west the Temple 
of the Moon, where the Emperor worships at 
the summer solstice. On the north, outside the 
An-ting Gate, is the Altar of Earth, where the 
Emperor worships at the vernal equinox. To the 
northwest are the tombs of the Ming emperors 
(except two, who were buried at Nanking), ap- 
proached through a long avenue of colossal lions, 
unicorns, camels, elephants and horses, in marble, 
two pairs of each. Nine miles northwest is the 
celebrated Yuen-Ming Yuen or ''Summer 
Palace." 

HISTORY.— In 937 the Khitan Tartars, who 
had conquered North China, made it one of their 
capitals and called it Nanking, or "Southern 
Capital," the northern being in Tartary. In 151 1 
the kin Tartars called it Chung-tu, or ''Middle 
Capital." In 1215 the city was captured by 
Genghiz Khan, and in 1264 Kublai Khan made 
his capital here and built the present Tartar city, 
called Ta-tu, or "Great Capital," in Chinese, and 
called Khan-baligh, or "City of the Khan," in 
Mongol, the Kambalu of Marco Polo. The third 
emperor of the Ming dynasty settled here in 1409, 
caused one and two-thirds miles of its length to 
be cut off, and built the present north wall. The 
ruins of this discarded section can still be traced. 
The Manchus in 1643 accepted the city as they 
found it, but have improved it much. In i860 
it was spared by the Anglo-French expedition, 
who had no quarrel with the people. By agree- 
ment, however, they held the An-ting gate during 
the negotiations. On August 14, 1900, its walls 
were breached and entered by the allied forces 
sent to relieve the foreigners besieged in the 
British Legation, and the city was held by the 
troops until September, 1901. In 1884 Peking- 
was brought into telegraphic communication with 
the rest of the world. In 1897 it was connected 
by rail with Tiensin, the terminus remaining 
outside the south gate until the military occupa- 
tion made it necessary to carry it into the city. 
The station is now opposite the Altar of Heaven. 
Peking is now also in railway connection with 
Shan-hai-kwan and Manchuria, and through the 
Russian lines with Europe. Peking is connected 
with Hankow, which lies in the heart of the 
Empire on the Yangtze River, and in a very short 
time will have communication established with 
Canton in the south, and thence with the railways 
building from the French possessions and India. 

From Peking it requires three or four days to 
visit the Great Wall of China, returning by way 
of the Ming Tombs. A pony may be used in 
travel, or a donkey, or you may recline in a mule 
litter. The innkeepers along the route are Mo- 



hammedans, whose cleanliness is traditionally 
greater than that of the Chinese. One may stand 
on the Great \\'all and look down on the green, 
grassy fields of Mongolia ; enjoy a luncheon in 
one of the rooms of the Pagoda, and afterwards 
roam for miles along the top of the wall in either 
direction. 

The Peking trip affords much pleasure and 
novelty, and should under no circumstances be 
omitted. It will repay anyone for all the dis- 
comforts and fatigues of the journey, and until 
a traveler has seen the ^lanchu stronghold he can 
have but little comprehension of the government, 
and governing class, or of the real genius and 
spirit of the Chinese civilization. 

The year 1900 was the most memorable in the 
history of Peking, for the reason that for the first 
time in two thousand years of civilization a re- 
sponsible government violated the laws of nations. 
The Chinese have made characteristic efforts to 
escape the responsibility for the Boxer trouble, 
but abundant evidence exists not only to show 
that the officials had secretly connived in it, but 
that the Empress Dowager herself was part and 
parcel of the whole affair. The Boxers arrived 
in force before Peking on the I3tl'i of June, and 
immediately proceeded to burn and destroy all 
buildings outside of the Legation cordon in the 
Chinese and Manchu cities occupied by those who 
were suspected or known to be in sympathy with 
the foreigners or in any way attached to them. 
These people themselves were ruthlessl}' mur- 
dered. The most interesting building thus to 
suffer was the Southern Roman Catholic Cathe- 
dral, which has been a place of worship for more 
than two hundred years. The Boxers also made 
an attempt to burn a drug store owned by a 
British firm, and in doing so the great bazaar 
caught fire, which quickly spread. The destruc- 
tion caused by this fire was inconceivably great, 
all the wealthy banks, silver shops, silk ware- 
houses and curio shops, with their priceless and 
irreplaceable stock of art, were consumed by the 
flames. 

Owing to the exigencies of the occasion the 
different ministers had asked for help from the 
navy, and in the latter part of ]\Iay and first of 
June about 500 marines were sent up from Taku, 
with three guns. On June 9th a request for more 
men was dispatched, but it was not possible for 
them to reach Peking, although a gallant attempt 
was made. On the igth the Legation was notified 
to quit the city by 4 p. ji. on the 20th, assigning 
as a reason the allied attack on and capture of 
the Taku forts. The Imperial Government prom- 
ised protection, but even had the legation accepted 
the terms proposed, there is little doubt but that 
they would have been massacred, as the Govern- 
ment was powerless to cope with the rebels even 
had it triecl, which it did not. 

Things came to a crisis the very ne.xt flay. 
Baron Von Ketteler, the German ?\Iinister. while 



88 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



proceeding to the Yamen to interview the Chinese 
officials, was shot at by Imperial soldiers from 
the loop-holed houses and brutally murdered ; his 
secretary escaped the same fate by a miracle, 
though he was badly wounded. The Chinese 
Government now joined hand in hand with the 
Boxers, and the legations sheltered all the people 
who could possibly get within their lines. Earth- 
works were thrown up. The limits of the de- 
fended position were only 800 x 400 yards, the 
greater dimensions being by the South Wall of 
the Tartar city. An American missionarj^ by 
the name of Gamewell undertook to construct 
earthworks and succeeded admirably. His work 
afterwards drew forth the highest praise from 
the engineers in the relief column. Sandbags 
were improvised in vast numbers, the ladies and 
native refugees working on them night and day. 
Every possible textile fabric was used for this 
work, priceless embroideries, carpets, curtains, 
as well as clothing, were seen in the barricades. 

The next death to occur was that of the Rev. 
H. James, of the Imperial University. He was 
shot by the Kansu ruffians while he was advancing 
to speak to their officers at the bridge north of the 
legations. The Austrian and Italian Legations 
were attacked and burned, and then followed the 
destruction of the customs' premises, and with 
them all the archives and records of Sir Robert 
Hart — the work of a man who has done more 
than any other to open China to the world, and 
who has ever been the staunch friend of China 
and things Chinese. 

Several attempts were made to fire the British 
legation, all unsuccessful on account of the 
steadiness of the British marines. In these at- 
tempts the Hauling library, with its priceless 
collection of books, was burned to the ground. 
The first ten days of the siege had been occupied 
by the Chinese with an incessant rifle fire, but 
with the greatest skill they kept under cover. 
The besieged never wasted a shot except when 
there was good chance of hitting something. In- 
deed, they could not afiford to waste ammunition, 
as they had but an insufficient supply. After the 
firing of the customs' premises the most persis- 
tent attacks made were on the east of the allied 
position around the palace of Prince Su, where 
the native Christians were congregated and where 
Colonel Shiba and his gallant band of Japanese 
sailors were constantly performing the deeds of 
heroes. On June 28th shell fire was added. 
Luckily for those in the Legation, the shells were 
of indififerent quality and generally very poorly 
timed. They often failed to burst at all and sel- 
dom caused much damage. Inside these Legation 
lines there were nearly 1,000 foreigners, including 
the marines and other guards. Notwithstanding 
this, the besieged made a sortie on Jul}' ist, the 
object being to capture a gun. Although skil- 
fully executed it was not a success. On the 3d 
the Chinese pressed very hard on the Americans, 



who were holding the west part of the foreign 
section of the wall, and they actually carried a 
barricade, which was quickly retaken. Captain 
Myers, of the American Army, was seriously 
wounded. The 4th of July was celebrated by 
an artillery duel. One of the needs of the Allies 
was heavy artiller}', and by remarkable luck one 
of the foraging parties which happened to be 
scouring around in the confines of the Russian 
Legation came across an old well, at the bottom 
of which were a lot of old but unused shells ; at 
the same time, by a mere coincidence, a gun 
dating back about forty years was discovered. 
This gun was mounted and named the "Inter- 
national" ; she was furbished up and an Ameri- 
can gunner fired with considerable moral effect 
on the Chinese. Necessity proved the mother of 
invention, and the excellent pewter of the Chinese 
was molded into bullets ; and even the Fathers, 
in their desperate efforts to keep the Chinese at 
bay, made their own gunpowder as well as bullets. 

On July I ith the French caught and shot some 
twenty Chinese, but, on the other hand, were 
caught themselves on the 13th, when the Chinese 
managed to blow up two large houses in the 
French Legation, and thus caused still more 
people to take refuge in the neighboring British 
compound. On the i6th of Juty, Strouts, the 
commander of the British marines, was killed by 
rifle while examining some defenses. He was ac- 
companied by Colonel Shiba, who received a 
bullet through his coat, and by Dr. Alorrison, who 
was severely wounded. After this the British 
Minister, Sir Claude jNIcDonald, resumed his 
military rank and took a leading part in the de- 
fense. 

When Tientsin was captured the Chinese au- 
thorities became alarmed, and the attack was less- 
ened, and on the i8th hostilities practically 
ceased, as far as fighting was concerned, and the 
Chinese then tried to open communication with 
the besieged. The Chinese soldiers attempted to 
make friends with the Japanese, and upon being 
turned out even sent in small presents of food, 
etc. Similar offers were made in other parts of 
the line, but almost without exception they were 
refused. 

On the 22d of July the attack was again re- 
newed and directed against the Northern Roman 
Catholic Cathedral, where the Fathers under 
Bishop Favier had assembled more than 3,000 
native Christians and where, with the help of 
fifty French and Italian marines, one of the most 
pathetic and desperate resistances of modern 
times was being carried out. They were short of 
ammunition, food and medicines, in fact, of 
everything save calm courage and Christian forti- 
tude. These people were the special object of 
the fanatical hatred of the Boxers, and had to 
conduct their defense amidst inconceivable con- 
ditions of overcrowding, disease and famine ; 
during the last few days of the siege their daily 



From Occident to Orient and Around the IVorld 



allowance of food consisted of four ounces of 
rice, and at the very last this had to be reduced 
to two. The children and the aged died like flies. 
They were not only in utter ignorance of the out- 
side world but also of their lay countrymen in 
the Legation part of the city. 

News of the departure of the relief column 
from Tientsin came to the American Minister on 
August 2d. This was somewhat premature, as 
the column did not start until August 3d, but it 
served to reanimate the defenders. At this time 
there were 833 people in the enclosure around the 
British Legation, that being the refuge of all 
who were driven from one position to another. 
The swift advance of the Allied Army, and the 
reports of the defeats which it was inflicting on 
the Chinese in every engagement en route, only 
served to make the Chinese attacking the Lega- 
tion strive harder for an entrance ; consequently 
the attacks of the 12th and 13th were the most 
stubborn of any throughout the siege, but as the 
guns of the AUied Army could be heard thunder- 
ing away at Tung-chow, the defense knew the 
meaning of the sound and were more determined 
than ever in their endeavor to beat the enemy off. 

The Japanese reached the eastern gates of the 
Tartar city, accompanied by the Russians, on the 
13th of August, and to these localities the Chinese 
drew the best of their forces, leaving the eastern 
gate of the Chinese city all but unguarded. Here 
Sir Arthur Gaslee and General Chaffee, leading 
the British and American forces, found easy 
entrance. After seizing the Temple of Heaven 
they swiftly pushed along in a direction parallel 
to the south wall, and found a way on through 
the water-gate by which the water of the Imperial 
canal flows under the wall. 

In a few minutes the relief of the Legation 
was an accomplished fact. The Russians and 
French got in early the following morning, and 
the little Japanese, who, after being leaders all 



the way from Tientsin and bearing the brunt of 
most of the hard fighting, had the misfortune to 
meet with real opposition at the walls, entering 
later the same morning. The gallant little 
Islanders found solace in coming across the chief 
treasury as they fought their way through the 
city, driving the beaten Chinese before them. On 
the following day the Americans advanced on 
the Imperial and Forbidden cities, and. with the 
co-operation of the French and Russians, seized 
these citadels of prejudice and seclusion. The 
French, backed by the Japanese, effected the re- 
lease of the sore-tried people in the Pie-t'ang. 
The city was given up to a "modified looting" for 
three days, and then military government was 
established, the various powers undertaking dif- 
ferent areas of the town. The palace fell to the 
Russians, who also sent out a column and seized 
the famous summer palace, thirteen miles distant. 
The capture of the city was formally celebrated 
by a visit of all the leading ministers, officers and 
some of the troops to the palace. For the first 
time in history foreigners were able to see the 
arcana of the Imperial Court. The day before 
the relief the Imperial family had left the palace 
and escaped into the Province of Shan-si, via the 
northern passage, en route for Si-an-fu, where it 
remained till October, 1901. 

Although Peking suffered indescribably from 
the depredations of the Boxers, the Imperial 
troops, the awful ruffianism of the barbarians 
from Kansu, to say nothing of the subsequent at- 
tentions of the allied troops, it is at present more 
attractive as an object of travel than before, for 
the simple reason that the city was cleansed by 
the foreign powers, and that many places of 
antiquarian, artistic or historic interest are now 
accessible. The fortifications around the Lega- 
tion quarter were completed in 1902, and the 
terminus of the railway brought into the Chinese 
city. 



China's Great Wall 



CHINA'S Great Wall was at one time 1,250 
miles long, extending between Mongolia 
and China proper from Suchau, in Kiang- 
su, eastward to the Gulf of Pe-chi-li, with an ex- 
tension northeastward to the Sungari River. In 
Mongolia it is called the White Wall; in China 
it is known as the Wall of 10,000 Li, and is the 
most gigantic defensive work in the world. In 
the third century B. C. an earthwork against the 
intrusion of the Tartars was thrown up which, 
in part, corresponds with the present wall. The 



present wall, however, as recent researches indi- 
cate, dates only from the latter part of the four- 
teenth century. Since the accession of the Man- 
chu Dynasty in 1644, the wall has been allowed 
to fall into decay, except at a few points where it 
is maintained for customs purposes. The wall is 
thirty-five feet high, twenty-one feet thick, and 
is faced with granite blocks, with towers at fre- 
quent intervals. Its course is very irregular, 
having been chosen without regard to natural 
obstacles. 



90 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



The Western Tombs 



THE Western Tombs can be reached by the 
(Belgian) Peking-Hankow or Pei-Han 
Railway. 
Close to the station are some corrugated iron 
houses put up for the occasion of Imperial visits 
to the tombs ; here the traveler can put up, but 
he must bring food, bedding, etc., as only a bare 
room is offered, but that is clean, quiet and airy. 
The head Lama also offers hospitality at the 
recently restored Lamaserai among the fir trees. 
A cart can be hired from the station for a dollar 
or more, according to time and distance. To the 
tomb enclosure is about two miles, but a long 
drive further through the woods brings you to 
the tomb of the Emperor Toakwang, three miles 
distant from the other tombs. The trees are 
naturally younger there, and in other ways re- 
ported as inferior. -While the avenue of stone 
men and animals leads up to the Changling, 



Kiaking's grave, the Tailing (Yungcheng's 
tomb), where the keys of all the tombs are kept, 
is the very handsomest of all. 

While the site of the tombs is very fine, there 
is not the same beautiful type of workmanship 
as at the Ming tombs ; but on the whole they are 
interesting to the traveler who has never before 
visited any of these tombs, and it only requires a 
little more than a day to complete the trip. 

To visit the tombs of the five other Emperors 
of the present Alanchu Dynasty at the Tungling 
(Eastern Tombs) you would have to allow a 
whole week, but lovely drives and walks about the 
woods and magnificent mountains would justify 
a lengthier stay to one who could spare the time. 
Here one may see the Imperial herds, of which 
the white sheep and the black oxen are reserved 
for the sacrifices, offered annually at these 
tombs. 



Information Concerning Tientsin 

TIENTSIN is an international settlement, situated at the junction of the Grand Canal with 
the Pei-ho River, in latitude 39 4 N., and longitude 117° 3' E. The city was opened 
to foreign residence and trade in i860. In 1853 the city was besieged by a strong force 
of Taiping rebels, and in i860 it was taken by the French. It formed the headquarters of Li 
Hung Chang, China's great statesman, from 1870 to 1895. The city was bombarded by the 
allied naval forces July 13 and 14, 1900, and used by them as a base when marching on Peking 
the same year. 

RAILWAYS. — A line eighty miles long connects the city with Peking, and another with 
Tongku and Chinwantao ; and also connects with the great Siberian Railway via Newchang, 
and the Peking-Hankow line to the south. 

POPULATION is estimated at 1,000,000, but there is no reason to believe that it is so 
large, there being much uncertainty as to where the city begins and ends. 

CONVEYANCES. — Jinrikishas (only used by foreigners) and mule litters, the tariff being 
the same as in Japan and Shanghai. 

HOTELS. — There are three excellent hotels: "The Astor House," the "New Imperial" 
and the "Hotel de la Paix," offering the best accommodations to the traveler. 

STEAMBOAT CONNECTIONS.— The Chinese Engineering & Mining Co. maintain two 
comfortable steamers on the run to Shanghai, sailing twice weekly. Other vessels leave al- 
most daily for coast ports. 

PLACES OF INTEREST. 

Various temples Victoria Park 

Roman Catholic Cathedral Foreign Legations 

Union Church Chinese curio shops 

Two excellent libraries Old forts 

Railway station where siege of 1900 took place 



Distilling sorghum and millet 
Glass works 

Manufacture of firecrackers 
Pottery yards 



INDUSTRIES. 



91 



Salt industry by evaporation 
Distilling plants 
Wood carvers 
Carpet works 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



The Kaiping collieries, among the largest in the world, are situated a short distance from 
the city, and should not be overlooked as a point of interest. 
Distances from Tientsin to the following cities in miles : 



Peking 80 

Chefoo 214 

Newchwang 206 

Chemulpo 645 

Vladivostock 1.195 

Hongkong 1.425 

Nagasaki 700 



Seattle 5,650 

Kiaochow 410 

Dalny 533 

Fusan 955 

Manila 1,665 

Shanghai 690 

Yokohama 1.34° 



T 



Tientsin (Heaven's Ford) 



lENTSIN is a city and treat}^ point of the 
Province of Chih-Ii, China, situated on the 
eastern edge of the Great Plain, on the 
right bank of the Pei-ho. It is at the junction of 
the Pei-ho with the Grand Canal, which, prior 
to the silting of the canal, afforded easy inland 
communication with many of the great cities of 
the country and bore to Tientsin the great fleets 
of junks engaged in the transportation from the 
south of the great "tribute rice" for the pro- 
visioning of Peking. It is seventy miles by water 
from the sea, and about seventy miles southwest 
of Peking. It is in rail communication with 
Peking, the Kaiping coal mines, Shan-hai-kwan 
and Manchuria, and with Pao-ting-fu, and thence 
southward through Ching-ting with Hankow. 
The city, which was only a wei or military station 
until 1782, is comparatively small. Its walls of 
brick and stone are thirty feet high, nearly four 
miles in circuit, and pierced with four gates sur- 
mounted with towers. The houses are generally 
of brick or pressed mud, and only one story high. 
Like those of most Chinese cities, the streets are 
filthy and ill-kept. The suburbs are very large, 
and in them is carried on most of the trade. The 
population is 1,000,000. In i860 Tientsin was 
opened by treaty to foreign residence and trade. 
The Foreign Settlement — known as Tsu-chu-lin, 
or "Red Bamboo Grove" — ■ is also situated on the 
right bank of the river and about one and one- 
half miles below the city, but within the line of 
the wall or ramparts, known as "San-ko-lin-sin's 
Folly." It is laid out in foreign style, has a jetty 
or pier and a fine bund or esplanade along the 
river bank, good, well-kept streets, fine dwellings 
and warehouses, gas, electric lights and many 
good public buildings, such as the custom-house 
and the town hall, known as Gordan Hall. There 
are schools, hospitals, club houses and the naval 
school established by Li Hung Chang, and within 
a short distance are well-equipped arsenals. The 
government of the settlement is vested in a 
mimicipal council elected by and composed of the 
land renters. 

Distilling is one of the local industries, chiefly 
of sorghum, or millet. The manufacture of un- 
refined salt is also carried on by evaporation from 



sea water. The works are below the city and the 
product is stacked along the river bank, giving a 
very offensive odor. The trade in salt all over 
China is a government monopoly. Carpets, shoes, 
glass and crude earthenware are also manufac- 
tured in large quantities in the city. The export 
includes coal, wool, bristles, straw braid, goat 
skins, furs, wines, firecrackers and fireworks. 
The export trade was practically not established 
until the advent of the foreigners, and to them 
alone belongs the credit of its foundation. The 
Russians are largely engaged in the tea trade. 
The imports are of the usual description : kero- 
sene, matches, arms and ammunition, tea for the 
desert of Siberia, mineral oil and needles figure 
next to piece goods. Fine arts are unknown to the 
Tientsinese except in the shape of cleverly made 
mud figures which, when painted, make really 
admirable statuettes, but are difficult to carry 
away, being remarkably brittle. 

The export trade in coal will now develop 
rapidly, as a strong combination of British and 
Belgium capitalists have recently organized as an 
English limited liability company, styled the 
"Chinese Engineering & Mining Co." The out- 
put of their Kaiping collieries in 1906 exceeded 
1,200,000 tons, of which 40,000 tons were shipped 
from Tientsin, and over 500,000 tons from Chin- 
wantao, which may be regarded as one of the 
au.xiliary ports of Tientsin. The general trade 
cannot help but increase, as Tientsin is practically 
the only sea outlet for the entire trade of the 
provinces of Chih-li, Shanshi, Kansuh and parts 
of Honan, with a population of over 1,000,000 
souls. 

In 1853 Tientsin was besieged by a strong force 
of Taiping rebels on their way to Peking, but 
they were defeated by the Mongol General San- 
ko-lin-sin and driven off. In i860 it was taken 
by the Anglo-French punitive expedition on its 
way to Peking. While Li Hung Chang was 
Viceroy of Chih-li, from 1870 to 1895, he made 
his headquarters at Tientsin, and in consequence 
the city was the centre of much ]3olitical interest. 
Its importance in this respect greatly declined 
when Li was removed from office after the dis- 
astrous war with Japan in 1894-95. 



92 



From Occident to Orient and Around the IVorld 



The City of Tientsin will ever be sadly remem- 
bered by Europeans for the massacre of the 
French Sisters of Mercy and other foreigners 
on June 21, 1870, in which the most appalling 
brutality was exhibited, and, as usual, the ring- 
leaders escaped unpunished. The Roman Catho- 
lic Cathedral was totally destroyed on this oc- 
casion, but was rebuilt, only to fall a victim to 
the Boxer fury in igoo. 

Tientsin has played so prominent a part in 
the history of China during the momentous year 
of the Boxer outbreak, and the taking of tlie 
Taku forts, that it will not prove uninteresting to 
give a brief account of it here. In the year 1900 
the city was under siege for twenty-seven days 
during June and July, and it afterwards became 
the base, as it must ever be, for the invasion of 
the allied forces into North China. The city in- 
curred the hatred of the Boxers mainly because it 
was the centre of new learning and new ideas in 
the north, and when they left Pao-ting-fu in 
May it was the first place of attack. \Mien they 
arrived in the city at the end of June they im- 
mediately overawed the provincial authorities, 
or, to put the matter in its true light, they were 
immediately joined and assisted by the authorities 
to food and clothing, as the cash books found in 
the official yamen afterwards proved. The actual 
hostilities commenced by the destruction by fire 
of the mission premises and by personal attacks 
of violence on natives who were suspected of 
being friendly to the missionaries. Even the 
Chinese clerks, compradores and shroffs in the 
employ of foreigners had to seek refuge in the 
settlement in order to escape certain death. On 
the night of the isth of June the Boxers attacked 
the railway station and the settlement in great 
force, but were compelled to retreat before 560 
marines of all nationalities who had been sent 
from the fleet off Taku to conduct the defense. 
By good fortune, as it afterwards turned out, a 
body of 1,700 Russians, attached to which was a 
batter}' of modern artillery, had not been per- 
mitted to follow Admiral Sejanour in his attempt 
to rescue the Legation. These men, therefore, 
were compelled to remain at Tientsin. Even 
with their presence the fierceness and determina- 
tion of the Chinese attacks were met with great 
difficulty. The lines extended over two miles in 
length, exclusive of about 2,000 yards of river 
frontage. The Chinese saw that the strategic key 
to the position was the railway station on the 
native side of the river and to the east of the 
French Settlement, and it was here they directed 
their most stubborn attacks. Had this station 
been carried the rebels would not only have been 
able to enfilade the settlement with rifle fire, but 
also secure a commanding position for their heavy 
guns, and in a few hours would have reduced the 
British and French Concessions to a heap of 
ruins. 

The Chinese authorities, with characteristic 



cunningness, resented the firing by the Allies on 
the Taku forts and made it an excuse and sub- 
terfuge for espousing the Boxer cause, though it 
was proven afterwards that the Government was 
hand in glove with the rebels from the beginning. 
In the afternoon of June 17th the Chinese opened 
fire from a concealed- battery in the heart of the 
city, the very existence of which was unknown. 
For four days the Imperial Chinese Infantry, ac- 
companied by the Boxers, made terrific assaults 
on the railway station, but in every case were 
driven off by the steadiness of the Russian de- 
fense, often supported by the British and French 
naval contingents. An armored train tried to 
keep in communication with Tongku, but failed. 
On June 19th a Mr. James Watts, Jr., volun- 
teered to head a party of Cossacks through the 
enemy's lines with despatches, and succeeded. 
This was one of the most brilliant feats of the 
whole campaign in North China. The defense in 
the beleaguered city was already running short 
of ammunition and a few days more would have 
become merely passive. On the day of the 
hardest conflict the Chinese reached their highest 
level as fighting men. The first part of the siege 
lasted for six days, during which time the rebels 
succeeded in firing some of the best buildings in 
the French and English Concessions ; on the other 
hand, the besieged had lain waste to large tracts 
of the native city, rendered necessary because 
they were in the line of fire and offered conceal- 
ment to the riflemen of the enemy. 

The first part of the siege was ended by the 
arrival of a relief column on June 23d. An ad- 
vance guard of Russians and Americans which 
had left Tongku a few days prior was forced to 
retreat before the fury of the Boxers and lost 
one machine gun. On the following da}' they 
were reinforced, and after two days" continuous 
fighting they had cleared the whole district be- 
tween Tongku and Tientsin on the left bank of 
the Pe-i-ho of the enemy. After reaching Tient- 
sin they cleared it on the eastern side and restored 
communication with their base. On July 13th a 
frontal attack was made across the open on the 
South Wall of the city. The Chinese were 
strongly posted behind the loop-holed ramparts 
and the Allies passed through a terrible fire as 
they approached. Ten per cent, of the entire 
force was disabled in this sanguinary fight, but 
early the next morning the Japanese, who had 
again borne the brunt of the engagement, blew 
up the gate, and the city was at the mercy of the 
Allies. It was given up to loot for one day, after 
which a military government was established by 
the various troops of the powers. 

From the taking of the city in 1900 to August 
15, 1902, nearly three years, Tientsin was in the 
possession of the allied troops, who formed what 
was known as the Tientsin Provisional Govern- 
ment. Each power was represented in the Coun- 
cil by an officer of at least the rank of colonel, and 



93 



From Occident to Orient and Around the Jl'orld 



under them were five departments : Secretariat, 
Judicial, Police, Chinese Secretariat and Public 
Works. All the walls, forts, arsenals and canton- 
ments were dismantled and razed to the ground. 
While the city was under the rule of the foreign 



powers many urban improvements were carried 
out, and these have since been extended under the 
Viceroyship of Yuan-shu-kai, to whom the gov- 
ernment of the city was handed over on August 
15, 1902. 



Shanhaikwan 



SHANHAIKWAN lies but one station be- 
yond Tang-ho, where the little branch line 
diverges to Chinwantao. There all trains, 
both those eastward and those westward bound, 
stop for the night ; thus the large railway hotel, 
handsomely furnished and with wide verandas, 
enjoys a monopoly. The Walled Chinese City 
lies to the north of the station, the hotel im- 
mediately to the south of it and about three miles 
from the sea. Since 1900 the forces of six nations 
keep watch at this, the frontier of Manchuria ; 
the English and the Germans have both laid down 
trolley lines, by which the sea can be reached in 
twenty minutes, through flat land under Chinese 
cultivation, and running parallel to the old road 
along which a Chinese general planted an avenue 
of trees. Groves of white-stemmed alders be- 
hind the picturesque old forts, which the Germans 
have adapted for convalescent stations, winding 
streams and views of the beautiful mountain 
range that here approaches the sea, make of 
Shanhaikwan a more pleasant place than either 
of its seaside neighbors, especially when the 
water is banked up in the streams by a high 
tide. 

The Great Wall of Shih Hwang-ti here finds 
its eastern termination in the sea. To examine 
its stone basements, facing of large bricks and 
excellent mortar, considered by Chinese as a 
specific for wounds — "There is none made like it 
now" — the visitor should climb the hills, or at 
least enter the Chinese city ; for that portion be- 
tween the sea and the cutting so boldly made by 
the railway through the Great Wall has lost its 



battlements and been in great measure reduced to 
ruin, since the soldiers of six nations were set 
down here and found building material as they 
easiest could. 

Shanhaikwan has been the scene of many a 
border fight of old ; it is rich in historical associa- 
tions and relics of the past in the shape of ruined 
watch towers, temples and caves turned into 
temples. According to Colonel Yule, the great 
Kublai himself used to come there from Cambalu 
with "10,000 falconers and some 500 gerfalcons, 
besides peregrines, sakers and other hawks in 
great numbers, and goshawks also, to fly at the 
water fowl," traveling "in a fine chamber carried 
upon four elephants," and encamping outside the 
Great Wall somewhat to the north. 

The favorite expedition for visitors is to a 
Taoist temple on the hills, from behind which a 
truly superb view can be obtained over a valley 
bounded on the opposite side by mountains so 
escarped and rugged as even to have turned aside 
the Great Wall. But the general amusement is 
bathing, which is pursued somewhat at a diffi- 
culty, owing to the distance, and as a health 
resort it can never compete with Peitaiho, the air 
being decidedly less fresh and very much less 
pure. There are a very few houses to be let, 
chiefly tenanted by British officers studying Chi- 
nese. Shanhaikwan is the headquarters for one 
portion of the railway, and boasts of a large rail- 
road shop — there was formerly an engineering 
college here — also a soda water factory estab- 
lished there because of the comparative purity 
of its water. 



Chefoo 



CHEFOO, or Chi-Fu, is a city in the Prov- 
ince of Shantung, China, so called by 
foreigners, though the Chinese name is 
Yen-tai ; and Chefoo proper is on the opposite 
side of the harbor. Chefoo is in latitude 37° 32' 
N., and longitude 121° 22' E. The port was 
opened to foreign trade in 1862, and at present 
has a native population of 80,000, with 400 
foreigners living in quarters clean, well kept and 
well lighted. The natives are very orderly and 
civil. The climate is so bracing that in summer 
Chefoo, with its good hotels and boarding-houses, 
is a much-visited sanitarium, being but two days' 
journey from Shanghai. The whole of the 
American Asiatic fleet repairs here in summer to 



avoid the heat of the lower latitudes, and the as- 
sured gaiety given by the presence of the fleet 
and good mmiber of civilians render promise of 
a certain future. 

The native town and foreign settlement lie on 
opposite sides of a spacious bay, and both have 
for immediate background a range of hills 
traversed by bad roads on which heavy traffic is 
possible only with pack animals. There is very 
little scenic attraction, unless the term be applied 
to a wide stretch of sandy shore, laved by a 
muddy, yellow sea. These features may be over- 
looked when taking into account the delightful 
climate that prevails here during six months of 
the year — the winter is severe, the spring lovely 



94 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



and cool, the summer hot and rainy, and the 
autumn perfect, with warm days, cool winds and 
cool nights. Summer amusements are varied, 
and there is an excellent club. 

During the winter of 1904-5 the port was in a 
state of excitement, owing to the close proximity 
of and possible occupation by the Japanese. 
Within sound of the guns of Port Arthur, Chefoo 
became the headquarters of many war corre- 
spondents during the Russian-Japanese War, and 
the foolish rumors customary in such crises came 
to be known on the China coast as "Chefoolories." 
It was in this port that the Japanese seized the 
Russian destroyer Rcchitchiy. Chefoo was the 
seat of the famous convention of 1876 between 



Sir Thomas Wade and Li Hung Chang. The 
world-famous "pongee silk" is manufactured 
here in great quantities, and is the most service- 
able suiting for summer months that can be found 
anywhere ; it is procurable at very low figures, 
at about one-half of what you ordinarily pay at 
other ports along the China coast. 

The trade of Chefoo is largely in bean cake, ex- 
ported principally to the southern ports of China. 
Silk, lace, straw braid and vermicelli are other 
chief exports. There are extensive vineyards 
here, and the planting of grapes and the making 
of wine will develop before long into a promising 
industry. Gold mines twenty leagues away are 
worked by natives. 



Tsingtau 



TSINGTAU is the thriving centre of German 
influence on the China coast. It is the best 
harbor on the Bay of Kaio-chau, situated at 
the extreme end of the Peninsula of Lao-shan, 
which forms one side of the bay. The villagers 
were bought out by the German Government and 
the port of Tsingtau made the foreign settlement 
and capital of the German zone. Fine wide streets 
have been made ; electric lighting, a telephone 
system, water works, etc., installed ; commodious 
houses, offices, hotels and workshops erected, and 
a railroad has been built connecting with all the 
main markets of northern Shantung. A railroad 
has been opened up to Tsinan-fu, a distance of 
300 miles, which opens up a vast and fertile 
territory rich in minerals and agricultural 
products. 

On November 14, 1897, Kiao-chau was seized 



by a German fleet as a result of the murder of 
two German missionaries, and in the negotiations 
which followed a lease for ninet3'-nine years was 
obtained, including the zone already mentioned ; 
and later valuable railwa}' and mining concessions 
were granted in this and the adjoining country. 
In 1898 it was declared a German protectorate, 
and Tsingtau a free port, and, by an agreement 
with the Chinese Government, the custom-house 
is managed by the Chinese Imperial Mari- 
time Customs authorities. In 1906 the im- 
ports amounted to $150,190, and the exports 
$50,000. 

The administration of the colony is, to some 
e.xtent, autonomous. At its head is a naval officer 
with the title of Governor, who is assisted by a 
council composed of heads of departments and 
three elected members. 



REIGNING SOVEREIGN AND 
FAMILY. — Kuang Su, Emperor of 
China, is the son of Prince Ch'un, the 
seventh son of the Emperor Tao Kuang. He 
succeeded his cousin, the late Emperor Tung Chi, 
who died without issue on the 12th of January, 
1875, from smallpox. 

The proclamation announcing the accession of 
the present sovereign was as follows : "Whereas, 
His Majesty has ascended upon the Dragon to be 
a guest on high, without offspring born to his 
inheritance, no course has been open but that of 
causing Tsai-Tien, son of the Prince of Ch-un, to 
become adopted as the son of the Emperor Weng 
Tsung Hien (Hien Fung) and to enter the in- 
heritance of the great dynastic line as Emperor 
by succession. Therefore, let Tsai-Tien, son of 
Yih Huan, the Prince of Ch-un, become adopted 
as the son of the Emperor Wen Tsung Hien, and 
enter upon the inheritance of the great dynastic 
line as Emperor by succession." The present 



China 

sovereign is the ninth Emperor of China of the 
]\Ianchu D3'nasty of Ta-tsing (Sublime Purity), 
which succeeded the native dynasty of Ming in 
the year 1644. There exists no law of hereditary 
succession to the throne, but it is left to each sov- 
ereign to appoint his successor from among the 
members of his family. The late Emperor, dying 
suddenly, in the eighteenth year of his age, did not 
designate a successor, and it was in consequence 
of palace intrigue, directed by the Empress Dow- 
ager, in concert with Prince Ch'un, that the 
infant son of the latter was declared Emperor. 
The Emperor Kuang Su was born in 1871, as- 
sumed the reins of government in February, 1887, 
was married on the 26th of February, 1889, to 
Yeh-ho-na-la, niece of the Empress Dowager, and 
his enthronement took place on the 4th of March 
following. On the 21st of September, 1898, a 
palace revolution took place and the Empress 
Dowager again assumed the regency, nominally 
on the ground of the Emperor's ill health. 



95 



From Occident to Orient and Aronnd the U'orld 



GOVERNMENT AND REVENUE.— The 

fundamental laws of the Empire are laid down in 
the Ta-tsing Huei-tien, or Collected Regulations 
of the Great Pure Dynasty, which prescribe the 
government of the state as based upon the gov- 
ernment of the family. The Emperor is spiritual 
as well as temporal sovereign, and, as high priest 
of the Empire, can alone, with his immediate 
representatives and ministers, perform the great 
religious ceremonies. No ecclesiastical hierarchy 
is maintained at the public expense, nor any 
priesthood attached to Confucian or state religion. 

The administration of the Empire is under the 
supreme direction of the Interior Council Cham- 
ber, comprising four members, two of Manchu 
and two of Chinese origin, besides two assistants 
from the Han-lin, or Great College, who have to 
see that nothing is done contrary to the civil and 
religious laws of the Empire, contained in the 
Ta-tsing Huei-tien and in the sacred books of 
Confucius. These members are denominated as 
Ta Hsio-sz Ministers of State. Under their 
order are the Li Pu, or seven boards of govern- 
ment, each of which is presided over by a Manchu 
and Chinese. They are : ( i ) The Li Pu Board 
of Civil Appointments, which takes cognizance 
of the conduct and administration of all civil 
ofEcers ; (2 ) The Hu Pu Board of Revenue, regu- 
lating all financial affairs; (3) The Li Pu Board 
of Rites and Ceremonies, which enforces the laws 
and customs to be observed by the people; (4) 
The Ping Pu or Military Board, superintending 
the administration of the army; (5) The Kung 
Pu, or Board of Public Works; (6) The Board 
of Punishments, or Hsing Puand ; (7) Hai Pu, 
or the Board of Admiralty. To these must be 
added the Tsung-li Yamen, the reconstruction 
institution, or, to call it by its new name, the Wai 
Pu. Its functions are those of a Foreign Office. 
Independent of the Government, and theoretically 
above the central administration, is the Tu-cha 
Yuan, or Board of Public Censors. It consists 
of from forty to fifty members, under two presi- 
dents, the one of Manchu and the other of Chi- 
nese birth. By the ancient custom of the Empire 
all the members of this board are privileged to 
present any remonstrance to the sovereign. One 
censor must be present at the meeting of each of 
the seven Government boards. 

The amount of the public revenue of China is 
not known, and estimates concerning it vary 
greatly. The Imperial Maritime Customs re- 
ceipts form the only item upon which exact 
figures are obtainable, and those for the year 1903 
amounted to Tls. 30,530,688. From other prin- 
cipal sources : Land tax, Tls. 20,000,000 ; salt, 
Tls. 10,000,000; lekin, Tls. 15,000,000; native 
customs, Tls. 3,000,000; miscellaneous, Tls. 
3,000,000. In addition the grain tribute may be 
also estimated at Tls. 3,000,000, making a total 
revenue of Tls. 84,000,000. These amounts are 
those supposed to be accounted for to the Gov- 



ernment, but very much larger amounts are 
raised from the people and absorbed by the 
corrupt officials in the way of peculation. 

China had no foreign debt until tlie end of 
1874, when a loan of £627,675, bearing 8 per cent, 
interest, was contracted through the Hongkong 
and Shanghai Bank, under Imperial authority, 
and secured by the customs revenue. After- 
wards a number of other loans, of comparatively 
moderate amounts, were contracted, mostly 
through the agency of the Hongkong and Shang- 
hai Bank, and several of them have been paid off. 
Up to 1894 the total foreign debt of China was a 
mere nothing, but since then extensive borrow- 
ings have had to be made to meet the expenses 
of the war with Japan and the indemnity, which 
was Tls. 200,000,000, with further Tls. 20,000,000 
for the retrocession of Liao-tung Peninsula. The 
country's obligations in 1901 were increased by 
a sum of Tls. 450,000,000, the amount of the in- 
demnity paid to the powers to meet the expenses 
of the expeditionary forces and claims for com- 
pensation for losses to missions, corporations, in- 
dividuals, etc. 

CHINA'S ARMY AND NAVY. — The 

standing military forces of China consist of two 
great divisions, the first formed by the more im- 
mediate subjects of the ruling dynasty, the 
Manchus, and the second by the Chinese and 
other subject races. The first, the main forces 
upon which the Imperial Government can rely, 
form the so-called troops of the Eight Banners ; 
they garrison all the great cities in such a manner 
as to be separated by walls and forts from the 
population. According to the latest but entirely 
untrustworthy reports, the Imperial Army com- 
prises a total of 850,000 men, including 678 com- 
panies of Tartar troops, 211 companies of 
Mongols and native Chinese infantr}', a kind of 
militia numbering 120,000 men ; but these figures, 
derived from native sources, are altogether un- 
reliable. In organization, equipment, personnel 
and commissioned troops the army is utterly in- 
efficient, and, with the exception of a few brigades 
of foreign-drilled troops, is little better than a 
rabble, as far as concerning opposition to Euro- 
pean, Indian or Japanese troops. The native 
soldiers do not, as a rule, live in barracks but in 
their own houses, mostly pursuing some civil 
occupation. The army of Chih-li, undoubtedly 
the best in the whole Empire, utterly failed to 
withstand the foreign troops in 1900 except in the 
cases when the disparity in number was over 
five to one. Disorganization was supreme, and. 
although the arsenals around Tientsin and Peking 
were known to contain more than 200 modern 
guns and to be replete with machine weapons, 
very few were forthcoming on the dav of battle. 
These arsenals, together with the forts at Taku, 
and all camps and fortifications between Peking 
and the sea, have now been demolished. Sir 



96 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



Robert Hart has formulated a scheme for the 
reorganization of the army, providing for four 
army corps, each consisting of 50,000 men, and 
a first and second reserve. He calculates at the 
end of ten years China would have an army on 
peace footing and in reserve of 500,000 men, at 
an annual cost of Tls. 47,409,000. 

NAVY. — The Chinese navy consisted, prior to 
the Franco-Chinese War of 1884, mainly of small 
gunboats built at the Mamoi Arsenal, Foochow, 
and at Shanghai, on the foreign model ; but was 
afterwards greatly strengthened. Five ships 
were lost, however, in the Battle of the Yalu, 
when the Japanese inflicted a severe defeat upon 
the Chinese, and the remainder of the fleet was 
captured or destroyed at the taking of Weihaiwei 
in February, 1895. Three crvtisers of 2,950 tons 
displacement were secured in 1895 from the 
ATilcan \^'orks at Stettin, and two very fine Els- 
wick sloops of the same size were added in 1899. 
These, with two corvettes and two training ves- 
sels, supplemented by four Elbau "destroyers," 
comprised the Pei Yang Squadron or northern 



fleet. These vessels might be of real value for 
convoying troop-ships, shelling rebellious towns, 
etc., but as the Chinese have no naval base and 
no docking facilities in northern waters, and as 
the ships are ill-fitted and with indifferent per- 
sonnel, they would be of little use against a 
resolute foreign enemy. The destroyers were 
captured at Taku on June 17, 1900, by the British 
"destroyers Fame and Whiting, and appropriated 
b}^ the Allies. The Chinese flagship at the bar, 
while not actually seized, was rendered useless by 
removing the breechblocks of the guns and by 
being placed under rigorous supervision. The 
remainder of the fleet fled to the Yangtze. Sir 
Robert Hart, in a scheme of military reorganiza- 
tion prepared in 1904, recommended the creation 
of three naval squadrons : the Northern, the 
Southern and Central, each to consist of ten 
battleships and first-class cruisers, ten second- 
class cruisers, ten torpedo-boat destroyers and 
fift}^ torpedo boats, with a crew of 10,500 men. 
The scheme is apparently pigeon-holed at Peking 
for the present. 



TRADE AND INDUSTRY. 



Net Imports from 
Foreign Countries. 



Xet Exports to 
Foreign Countries. 



Total of 
Foreign Trade. 



Net Imports of 
Native Goods. 



1900 

19DI 

1902 

1903 

1904 

Equals at Exchange i .55 



Hk. Tls. 



21 1,070,422 
268,302,918 
315.363,905 
326.739.133 
344,060,608 



158,996,752 
169,656,757 
214,181,584 
214.352,467 
239,486,683 



108,036,714 
437,959.67s 
529,545,489 
541,091,600 
583,574.291 



Mex. S533.203.942 Mex. $371,204,359 



Mnx. 8004,498,301 



108,036,714 
125.454.462 
136,359.955 
161,313.323 
163.073.177 



$25,763,424 



The exports to foreign countries, exclusive of 
re-export of foreign goods, were : 

Silk. Raw, Ref. and Cocoons Hk. Tls. 65,687,302 

Cotton, Raw " 24,811,595 

Tea " 30,201.964 

Silk Piece Goods " 12,568,110 

Hides, Horns and Bristles " 9,796,641 

Skins and Rugs " 7.327,542 

Bean and Beancake " 7,282,723 

Wool " 5,076.879 

Mats and Matting " 4,526,082 

Straw Braid " 4,502,820 

Oil, Vegetable " 4,278,414 

Minerals, mostly Tin " 3,841,586 

Paper " 3,766,700 

Cattle, Sheep, Pigs and Goats " 3,120,190 

Firecrackers and Fireworks " 2,717,906 

Tobacco " 2,565,400 

Provisions and Vegetables " 2,100,802 

Hemp " 1,854,134 

Medicines " 1,946,788 

Fruit " 1,785.407 

China, Earthenware, Pottery " 1,663,921 

Eggs, Fresh and Preserved " 1,651,860 

Clothing, Boots and Shoes " 1,651*735 

Opitun " 1.445.978 

Vermicelli and Macaroni " 1.434. 305 

Nankeens " 1.433 428 

Timber , . ^ " 1.390,336 

Sugar... " 1.356,179 

Feathers " 1,172,805 

Sundries " 26,527,151 

Total " 239,486,683 

Imports to the amount of Hk. Tls. 13,384,055 

were re-exported to foreign countries, namely, to 

America, Tls. 3,429,689; to Japan (including 

Formosa), Tls. 3,967,495; Korea, Tls. 2,041,471 ; 

97 



to Europe, Tls. 815,077; to Hongkong, Tls. 
2,557,497 ; to other countries, Tls. 1,476,275. The 
chief article re-exported was Formosa tea, to the 
value of Tls. 3,945,815, mostl_y to America. 

The following were the values of net imports 
from foreign countries in 1904, that is, exclusive 
of re-export to foreign countries : 



Cotton Goods Hk. Tls 

Opium 

Kerosene Oil 

Metals 

Sugar 

Rice and Rice Bran 

Coal : ' 

Railway Material 

Fish and Fisherj' Products 

Matches 

Woolen Goods 

Flour 

Cigarettes and Cigars 

Beche de Mer and Seaweed 

Machinery 

Timber 

Wine. Beer, Spirits 

Miscellaneous Piece Goods 

Dyes, Anilin 

Medicines 

Household Stores 

Indigo 

Ginseng 

Glass and Glassware 

Soap and Perfumery 

Sandal Wood 

Woolen and Cotton Mixtures 

Cotton, Raw 

Paper 

Sundries 



Totil . 



124,083,305 

37.094 172 

27.980 043 

21,234.775 

19.291,458 

10,691,188 

7.160,675 

6,046.459 

5.510,956 

4.773.197 

4,161,319 

3,591.071. 

3.279t7T3 

2.789.586 

2,660,039 

2.495.981 

2.077,509 

1.958,859 

1,864,501 

1,506,297 

1,491,817 

1,476,214 

1,412,384 

1,170,710 

1,108,469 

1,086,665 

1,032,882 

1,013,068 

2,549,032 

42,550,264 

34.t,o6o,6o8 



From Occident to Orient and Around the Jl'arld 

The following" was the net value of conmiodi- the trade carried on with neighhorint;- countries 
ties imported direct from and exported to foreign in Chinese junks, which does not come within the 
countries in 1904. These figures do not include control of the foreign customs : 



Hongkong Hk. Tls, 

Japan (including Formosa) " 

Great Britain " 

Continent of Europe, except Russia " 

United States of America " 

India " 

Straits and other British Colonies " 

Russia, Siberia and Russian Manchuria " 

Macao " 

Other Foreign Countries " 



Imports. 



141 

50. 
57 
23 
20 
32 
6, 
4 



085,010 
164,056 
220,95s 
512.033 
180,046 
2 I () , 7 1 2 
721,102 
467,476 
8g4.5Q3 
Q77.790 



357.444.663 239,486,683 



Exports. 



,858,017 
,Q86,85f 
260,963 
512,544 
087,87 = 
386,781 
515,281 
056,36: 
058,741 
754.161 



Totals. 



227 
88 
72 
68 
5O 
34 
I I 
9 
7 



943.037 
■50.914 
490,918 
025,477 
,268,921 
,606.493 
236,473 
523,838 
053.334 
731.951 



506,931,346 



Goods to the value of Tls. 66,320,042 were con- 
veyed to, and to the value of Tls. 22,473,609 were 
brought from, the interior under transit passes. 



The total carrying trade, foreign and coast- 
wise, was divided among the different nations as 
follows : 



Entries and 
Clearances 



Tonnage 



British I 

Gorman 

Japanese 

Swedish and Norwegian 

French 

American 

Other Countries 

Chinese 



33.118 
6,835 
4.321 
1. 596 
2.376 
1.529 
1,095 

82,326 



32,995,026 

7,602,280 

4.273.430 

1.404,648 

1,262,695 

645,550 

586,299 

13,001,778 



l33.io6| 61,771,714 



Values 



840,910,770 
59,390,683 
62,309,437 
34,744.183 
35,797.440 
12.474.131 
14.365,110 

430,065,091 



1.590,056,847 



Percentages 



Tonnage 



Trade 



51 .64 

11.92 

6.73 

2 , 20 

1.98 

1-45 

.92 

23 . 16 



52.89 

10.02 

3.02 

2. 19 

2.25 

.78 

.90 
27.0s 



100.00 



The New China 



ONE fact is apparent to even the most super- 
ficial observer, and that is that the Chinese 
are awakening. Trade is stirring all over 
the Empire to-day. and the time is rapidly ap- 
proaching when she will enjoy an expansion, the 
bounds of which will only be limited by the enter- 
prise of her citizens. An ever-widening field for 
exploitation along social, industrial and religious 
lines is before them, providing they choose to 
take advantage of a system which is theirs to 
control. The resources of the Empire dazzle the 
imagination. The time when these unexplored 
and hitherto inaccessible fields of industry will be 
opened to the world will not be long delayed in 
its coming. Unless all signs fail we are begin- 
ning to see the end of Chinese isolation in so far 
as the "closed door" is concerned. The nations 
of the world are cognizant of the possibilities 
looking to their interests and advantage, and the 
years will be few when the "open door" is well 
ushered in. Four hundred inillions of people are 
beginning to feel the thrill of a new life within 
them. What awful strength there is for good or 
evil behind so vast a multitude ! 

But let it be known, however, that this im- 
pending change is not of their own seeking. It 
has been forced upon them in many different but 
all more or less forcible ways. Until recently the 
Chinese have been satisfied with their status in 
which they have lived for thousands of years. 



98 



They have been a foe and, at times, a menace to 
civilization and progress of the world, thus pos- 
sessing and still possess a great country. They 
have, in the past, accomplished marvelous results, 
but among themselves. Away back in the twi- 
light period, when Europeans were herding 
swine, the Chinese were counting the stars. The 
Golden Rule was handed down to them by Con- 
fucius hundreds of years before our Saviour 
walked the earth. At a time when not a man in 
Northern Europe could write his name they had 
a crude printing press that was turning out 
philosophy, poetry and fiction of a remarkably 
high order. Their junks discovered the western 
coast of North America, guided by a mariner's 
compass of their own invention. And the secrets 
of gunpowder was not withheld from them. One 
learns from the Arabian Nights how great was 
the prestige of China in Asia some hundreds of 
years ago. There is a religious sect living in 
Syria called the Druses that has, as a part of 
its creed, a peculiar superstition which shows how 
powerful China must have effected the imagina- 
tion of that mighty continent. The prophet of 
the Druses taught — and to this day they believe 
the teaching — that the soul of the faithful would 
go to China after death. Many other legends 
concerning them were circulated in Asia that 
testified mightily to the high regard in which the 
Celestial Empire then stood. 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



The \\'estern World has waited so long for 
China to rouse herself from the sleep of centuries 
that the impression is prevalent that she would 
never awake. It is not surprising, then, that 
there should be a disposition to overlook the 
critical moment when the decisive change takes 
place. It is, perhaps, too much to say that China 
is already fully awake, but it is certain that she 
has opened her eyes and is taking notice of what 
is going on in the world about her. 

Aided by the prospective of time, the future 
historian will fix the turning point in the life of 
China for the year of 1900. 

THE BOXER REBELLION.— The year 
1900 witnessed in China the last and most de- 
termined attempt to break away from foreign in- 
fluence and to revert to the exclusiveness of 
twenty centuries. The causes of the great social 
and political upheaval are not far to seek, though 
from their interaction and overlapping they are 
by no means easy to set forth in the sequence of 
their importance. The associations brought 
about by an expanding trade, by missionary ef- 
fort and by reciprocated diplomatic representa- 
tion have not in an}' way lessened the hostile 
mental attitude engendered by alien civilization, 
literature and moral standards ; there are still 
gaps between the Western and Chinese mind that 
no sympathy can bridge. The whole trend of 
Chinese education is especially calculated to en- 
sure a hostile bias toward change, toward re- 
form of abuse and toward the adaptation of en- 
vironment to new conditions, on which depends 
the continued existence of men and governments 
alike. The governing and influential classes 
have an enormous vested interest in retaining 
things as they are in every phase of Chinese life. 
There can be but one issue to a policy like theirs 
in these days, though the Chinese, unlike their 
nimble-minded neighbors in the East, are unable 
to see it. As in all countries where an enormous 
population lives on the narrow ledge that divides 
poverty from famine, there is ever a large element 
of social discontent ready to be moulded to what- 
ever end crafty or plausible leaders may deter- 
mine. 

The Boxer sedition arose in the Province of 
Shantung, the very shrine of Confucianism and 
Chinese patriotism — such as it is. At first it had 
its inception in that vague and ill-defined social 
discontent to which we have referred as originat- 
ing in poverty. Shantung is the home of secret 
societies and of bold blackguardism. The Ta- 
tou-tse, or "Big Swords," long ago developed a 
kindred society, which took the sententious name 
of I-ho-chuanor, "Patriotic Harmony Fists," 
roughly translated into English "Boxers." Those 
people have a ritual which is largely composed 
of gymnastic posturing. During the last few 
years it has focussed in its membership all the 
vague discontents arising in Christianity as a 



better system of morals, in poverty, in political 
"loss of face," in discontent with the dynasty, 
etc. It is the easiest thing in the world to direct 
a feeling of general discontent exclusively to- 
ward one of its elements, and if cleverly done, the 
whole force of the storm will be waged against 
this one object, to the complete neglect of all the 
rest. This was cunningly brought about in Shan- 
tung in 1900. The last two Governors of the 
Province, seeing the trend of events, skilfully 
represented to the throne that it would be wise 
to guide the coming storm into channels into 
which it could be made subservient to Imperial 
resistance to foreign design ; otherwise, they 
pointed out, the society would follow the example 
of the secret societies of the south and adopt an 
anti-d3'nastic polic)'. The Boxers were, conse- 
quently, encouraged in their baiting of Christians, 
and only half-heartedly punished when they 
added the murder of Europeans to their pro- 
gramme. When they began to harass Catholic 
missions and converts, Bishop Anzer, a strong- 
minded but somewhat tactless Bavarian, made 
strong representations to his impulsive Imperial 
master. The latter instructed his Minister to de- 
mand the instant dismissal of the highest provin- 
cial authorities, and so intensified the anti-foreigii 
feeling among the high officials in Peking. 
Things drifted from bad to worse. Li Hung 
Chang and other great Chinese officials, who were 
under no delusion as to foreign strength, were 
not listened to and were sent to places where 
exclusively anti-dynastic uprisings were antici- 
pated. Thaumaturgy and hocus-pocus were next 
skilfully grafted on to the movement. The in- 
itiated were said to be impervious to bullets ; they 
could walk on sunbeams, arrest rivers, stop or 
create fires by their mere gestures, etc., etc. This 
feature of the new propaganda caught on. The 
Chinese are still in that state of mental develop- 
ment in which the idea of miracles is not only 
possible but welcome. Clever rogues among the 
Boxers gratified the multitude with some of the 
commonplace of legerdemain, and the new re- 
ligion began to spread like wildfire. Were not 
the very gods on the side of the patriots? In 
Jilarch, April and May whole cities and cHstricts 
in Chih-li went over to the new doctrine, and 
preachers could not be found in sufficient number 
to initiate the candidates. Rich men found it ex- 
pedient to effect conversion and to support the 
movement ; otherwise they were blackmailed into 
poverty. All the Roman Catholic and Protestant 
missionaries clearly now saw' the bearings of the 
coming storm and cautioned their ministers ; but, 
with the usual grudging attention to unofficial 
reports, little heed was paid to the warnings until 
it was practically too late to coerce the Manchu 
Government into action by the only possible 
means — force. Too late the fleets assembled at 
Taku. By this time the sedition was far beyond 
official control, and, moreover, what did the 



LOFC. 



P9 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



Manchus, who had never seen the sea, care for a 
naval demonstration? Their notion of a battle- 
ship is that of an exaggerated sampan. The 
Boxers swept up like a cyclone from Shantung 



pensity for loot, and varying it with the murder 
of foreign missionaries and railway engineers. 
In the neighboring Province of Shan-si the move- 
ment was taken under the direct auspices of 




FAIR PROMOTER OF GUIDE 
'*From Occident to Orient and Around the World" 



and gathered their strength around Paoting-fu, 
the provincial capital of Chih-li. They began 
with railway destruction, making the business 
strictly compatible with the innate Chinese pro- 



U-hsien, the ex-Governor of Shantung. This 
supreme villain asked some thirty-three Euro- 
peans, including many ladies and children, to his 
Yamen at Tai-yuan-fu for protection, and there 



100 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



and then let the Boxers loose on them to hack 
them to pieces with swords. He further supple- 
mented this outrage on humanity by issuing most 
stringent orders throughout his Province for 
the annihilation of all Christians, Europeans and 
Chinese alike. Next to the atrocity of Cawnpore 
in the Indian ]\Iutiny, the story of the Shan-si 
massacre is the most appalling crime of the nine- 
teenth century. The number of native Christians 
that perished will never be known, as the missions 
have lost their archives ; pastors, members and 
premises have alike been exterminated. A similar 
policy was followed by the acting Viceroy of 
Chih-H at Paoting-fu, and by some of the officials 
in northern Honan, where, through many heart- 
rending crimes and murders were committed, the 
story was mitigated by the fact that there were 
numerous escapes, and that many officials and 
gentry jeopardized their own lives in attempts to 
save the fugitives. The Governors of Shantung 
and Shan-si especially distinguished themselves 
in their zeal for humanit^^ It was entirely due to 
their powerful protection of foreigners that the 



number murdered and the outrages were re- 
stricted to present figures — that is, to less than 
250 European lives. Sober estimates have been 
made that over 10,000 natives perished; most of 
these were Christians and the kinsmen of Chris- 
tians, but in vast numbers of cases greed and 
family and personal feuds prompted the denounc- 
ing of pagans as Christians. 

The Russian-Japanese War has had a great 
influence in bringing about a commercial change 
in China, and its people are rapidly becoming 
capable of joining in the world's commerce and 
industries to the extent of any nation on the face 
of the globe. This has been proven by them in 
everv port where Imperial authority has opened 
the door to outside communication, and in some 
of them they have the controlling power. What- 
ever the future may give birth to, the Chinese 
must not be considered as nonentities — they are 
far removed from that. Their very economy in 
the affairs of life, both large and small, ren- 
ders them a quantity to be reckoned with in the 
future. 



Information Concerning Hongkong 

kHE Island of Hongkong was ceded by China to Great Britain in 1841 for the purpose of 
establishing a colony. 

POPULATION. — November, 1906, 298,564. 10,981 non-residents; floating popula- 
tion on water 45,582, and on land 242,001. European population 9,000, including Portuguese 
and army and navy, but not including the Indian troops, which number 5,791. 

CONVEYANCES. — Sedan chair and jinrikisha. Tariff: Jinrikisha, one-quarter hour, 
5 cents; one-half hour, 10 cents; one hour, 20 cents, and every subsequent hour 10 cents. 
Sedan chair, two bearers, one-quarter hour, 10 cents ; one-half hour, 20 cents ; one hour, 25 cents ; 
three hours, 50 cents; six hours, 70 cents; per day from 6 A. M. to 6 P. M., $1.00. With four 
bearers, one hour, 60 cents; three hours, $1.00; six hours, $1.50; one day, 6 A.M. to 6 P.M., 
$2.00. 

CURRENCY — The Mexican dollar, and bank-notes issued by various banks on the Mexi- 
can basis, value averaging 50 cents U. S. gold to one Mexican dollar. The same currency 
applies at Macao and Canton. 

HOTELS. — King Edward, Peak Hotel, Connaught Hotel, Baltimore Hotel and Carlton 
House. These hotels are earnestly recommended in preference to any other. 

CONSULATES and all important business houses are within two minutes' walk from 
your hotel, likewise post-office, telegraph and shipping offices. 

HOW TO GET THERE FROM HONGKONG. 



To 
SAN FRANCISCO, CAL. 

VANCOUVER, B. C 



SEATTLE, WASHINGTON. 



Every 

. Pacific Mail S. S. Co 10 days 

Toyo Kisen Kaisha 10 

. Canadian Pacific S. S. Co 12 

" 15 

. Great Northern S. S. Co 15 

15 

Boston S. S. Company 15 

Nippon Yusen Kaisha 15 



Class 



Fare 



ays 




!tl225.00 






225.00 




I St 


225.00 




2d 


115.00 




I St 


225.00 




2d 


115.00 




I St 


180.00 




1st 


180.00 



From Occident io Orient and Around tlic If o rid 



To Every 

MELBOURNE, AUSTRALIA Nippon Yusen Kaisha 30 days 

North German Lloyd 30 " 

Eastern & Australian S. S. Co 30 " 

MANILA, P. I China-Manila S. S. Co 7 " 

CANTON, CHINA Canton & Macao S. S. Co daily 

MACAO " " " " 

SAIGON Messageries Maratime S. S. Co 10 " 

SHANGHAI Pacific Mail S. S. Co 10 " 

Canadian Pacific S. S. Co 15 " 

North German Lloyd S. S. Co 10 " 

Messageries Maratime S. S. Co 10 " 

BANGKOK, SIAM North German Lloyd Coaster 30 " 

SINGAPORE German Mail 10 " 



Class 


Fare 


I St 


£34 


2d 


£24 


term'te 


£12-10 


I St 


$60 Mex. 


I St 


8 " 


I St 


4 " 


I St 


£3 


I St 


$60 Mex. 


I St 


60 " 


I St 


60 " 


I St 


60 " 


I St 


70 " 


I St 


70 " 



Public Gardens 

City Hall 

City Hall Museum 

Taikoo Sugar Refinery 

The Peak 

Happy Valley 



PLACES OF INTEREST. 

Race Course 
Bowen Road 
Chinese City 
Opium Dives 
Central Market 
The Observatory 



Distances from Hongkong to the following points : 



Miles 

Canton 98 

Yokohama 1,580 

Kobe 1,420 

Colombo 3,096 

Shanghai 810 

Sydney 4,900 



Miles 

Vladivostock 1,670 

Seattle 5,720 

Singapore 1,480 

Macao 48 

Manila 640 

San Francisco 6,140 



Victoria, Hongkong 



THIS city is an actual illustration of the de- 
termined colonizing spirit of those early 
adventurers from the British Isles, who 
have won a home from the sides of the once 
barren hills, reared thriving plateaus along the 
sea covered with towering commercial buildings, 
by remarkable feats of engineering and reclama- 
tion. 

Well may this beautiful city be termed the 
"Gibraltar of the Far East," as it stands to-day 
the greatest monument in the world of British 
thrift and enterprise. Hongkong is a haven for 
the energetic business man, a refuge and pro- 
tectorate for the oppressed from China across the 
way, a hospitable paradise for the wanderers and 
rolling stones of the earth. 

Its gates are open and free to all, regardless of 
cast or color. There is no custom-house, there 
are no annoying regulations to bother the 
traveler upon arrival ; you are at liberty to go 
and come at leisure, and without a question being 
asked. The thoroughfares of Hongkong are the 



most interesting of any city in the world ; along 
its streets pass the noisy jinrikishas in an endless 
procession ; electric cars sing ; coolies "hello," 
and the sedan chair swings and squeaks as you 
distinguish that peculiar dull thud, thud, of the 
coolie's heels upon the pavement while he bears 
some lazy-looking individual up the hillside, with 
feet propped at an angle of 45 degrees upon the 
chair arms and wearing that e.xpression of "I 
own this town." 

Every nationality is represented along these 
busy streets, and you will find a study of this 
throng to be an education in itself. Nine-tenths 
of the people are Chinese, and to this multitude 
are now and then contributed, by way of variety, 
an occasional Caucasian either from the Conti- 
nent of Europe or from the two Americas ; but 
their appearance is a very thin relief. Remark- 
able picturesque and interesting are the opulent 
class of Chinese robed in the richest of silks as 
they wend their way through the crowd en route 
to their offices or places of business. All kinds 



102 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



of Oriental people can be seen here : the tall 
Hindoo, Indians of ever_v cast and description, 
the business-like Parsee, suave and ever cour- 
teous ; the Japanese, Siamese, the Alauritanian 
and the Filipino ; thousands of half casts, inter- 
mingled, for the most part, with Chinese blood ; 
and everywhere you will come in touch and rub 
shoulders with the dirty but ever amiable bulk of 
the population, the half-clad coolies. 

The first impressions of Hongkong, as gained 
by the traveler who approaches the city in the 
daytime, are most favorable. Away to the front 
towers the evergreen and almost precipitous peak, 
its entire sides covered with magnificent build- 
ings, the residences of the wealthy inhabitants of 
the colony, while below, near the water front, 
are imposing modern structures of eight and ten 
stories telling of commercial prosperity. Should 
the traveler arrive by night the scene is far more 
impressive and one never to be forgotten. The 



the slender bamboo mingles with creepers and 
flowers of every known variety ; ferns rise grace- 
fully from ever)' nook and corner, interspersed 
with pansies and roses, violets and heliotropes, 
all adding to the fragrance of the air. The 
Botanical Gardens are beautifully situated on 
the hillside above the business section of the city, 
and can be reached by chair in a few moments, 
or by delightful walks up an avenue lined with 
banyan trees. These gardens contain over 2,000 
floral varieties, and in the centre a handsome 
fountain adorns the terrace and hundreds of fish 
of varied colors lazily swim about its waters ; at 
its base, day after day, merry groups of Chinese 
and European children romp and play, and, to- 
gether with their . native nurses in picturesque 
costumes, present a pleasing spectacle. 

It is the general custom to travel by jinrikisha, 
as in Japan, or in lieu of which, to use a sedan 
chair, the latter being absolutely necessary in 



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HONGKONG HARBOR LOOKING NORTHWEST 



sampans and ships in the harbor about you are 
lost to view, invisible ; the buildings on shore are 
shrouded in the darkness of the protecting hills ; 
but on every craft afloat (and there are tens of 
thousands of them), and in every window on 
land, there twinkles the flame of some tiny lamp 
or electric arc, until it appears as though even a 
portion of the heavens had come down to rest 
in peace and quietude under the shadow of Great 
Britain's impregnable forts. 

Sixty years ago, when England returned from 
Canton, and at the completion of the Opium War, 
she decided to make this barren island her strong- 
hold. It was infested with thousands of blood- 
thirsty pirates, who pursued their nefarious prac- 
tices without risk or fear of detection or punish- 
ment. Notwithstanding the rocky character of 
the island and its generally barren appearance, 
Hongkong possesses a rich and varied flora ; its 
roadways and streets are overshadowed by lux- 
uriant vegetation. There the ostrich plumage of 



attempting to reach the higher levels. Hongkong 
has the poorest rattle-shackle lot of jinrikishas to 
be found in the Far East, and the police regula- 
tions governing them are far worse ; the coolies 
oft-times rush at you in such numbers as to 
throw you off your feet or entirely prevent fur- 
ther progress, while the atmosphere is made un- 
bearable by their gutteral attempts at speech as 
they follow you for blocks along the street trying 
to persuade you to accept a fare from them. The 
traveler is advised to carr)' a small cane, which 
acts like magic in keeping these human parasites 
from obstructing your way. Carriages of in- 
ferior quality may be hired, but they are not in 
general use and can only be used on the lower 
streets. 

Victoria is purely and simpl)' a commercial 
city, or, in other words, a distributing centre for 
all the vast country included in the south of the 
Chinese Empire ; its harbor is one of the finest 
in the world, comprising an area of more than 



103 



Hongkong and Whampoa Dock Company, Ltd. 

Office: Queen's Buildings, Hon^kon^ 



THE COMPANY'S DOCKS at KOWLOON, TAI-KOK-TSUI and ABERDEEN are in efficient working 
order, and the attention of Captains and Ship-owners is respectfuily solicited to the advantages which these 
Establishments offer for Docking and Repairing Vessels. 

The Company has SIX GRANITE DOCKS and TWO PATENT SLIPS of the following dimensions: 





Length on 
Keel Blocks. 


Breadth at 
Entrance. 


Depth over 
Sill at 
Ordinary 
Spring Tides. 


Rise of Tide. 


Dock or Slip. 


Springs . 


Neaps. 


KOWLOON. 
No. I Dock Kowloon 


Feet. 
576 

371 
264 
240 
220 

466 

43° 
33," 


Feet. 
! 86 ft. top 1 
\ 70 ft. bottom J 

74' 

49' 3" 

60' 

60' 

85' 6" 

84' 
64' 


Feet. 
30' 

18' 6" 
14' 
14' 
12' 

20' 

23' 
i6' 


Feet. 
7' 6" 

7' 6" 

7' 6 
7' 6" 
7' 6" 

7' 6" 

7' 6" 
7' ft" 


Fee. 
3 


No. 2 Dock, Kowloon 

No. 3 Dock, Kowloon 

Patent Slip, No. i, Kowloon 

Patent Slip, No. 2, Kowloon 

TAI-KOK-TSUI. 
Cosmopolitan Dock 

ABERDEEN. 
Hope Dock 




Lamont Dock 


— 



The DOCKS are fitted with every appliance in the way of Caissons, powerful Centrifugal Steam Pumps, 
etc., which enable them to be pumped out in three hours. 



WORKSHOPS. — The extensive workshops on the premises at Kowloon, Cosmopolitan, and .'Vberdeen 
Docks possess every facility and appliance necessary for the repairs of ships and steam machinery. The 
Engineers' Shops are supplied with a large plant of the latest types of tools in the way of Lathes, Planing, 
Milling and Screwing Machines, Electric Cranes, etc., etc., and capable of executing the largest class of work 
with despatch. The Shipwrights' Department has attached to it a Steam-Sawmill with Circular, Vertical 
and Band Saws, and also a complete plant of Wood-working Machinery of the most modem and improved 
type. The Blacksmiths' Shops are equally well furnished with a complete supply of powerful Steam Hammers, 
Cranes, etc., capable of forging stern posts and crank and straight shafting of the largest size. 

Powerful Lifting Shears with steam purchase at two of their Establishments stand on a solid granite 
seawall, alongside which vessels can lie drawing 24 feet of water, and take in or out boilers, etc. The Shears at 
Kowloon are capable of lifting 70 tons. 

The Company is prepared to tender for the construction of new vessels in either steel, iron or wood, having 
already built about 400 of varying sizes up to 5,000 tons; also to execute all kinds of ship work at lower rates 
and with greater despatch than any establishment in the East. Every department is under the close super- 
vision of experienced European foremen. 



SHIP- YARD is fully equipped with modem plant, including hydraulic flanging and bending machines, 
electrically driven rolls, punching, shearing, angle-bevelling, joggling and planing machines, capable of dealing 
with the heaviest class of work. 



BOILER-MAKERS' DEPARTMENT. — The Company, in addition to executing repairs, is prepared to 
tender for new boilers to steamships, for the construction of which it possesses special facilities, including 
powerful punching and shearing machines, hydraulic rivetters, etc. 

FOUNDRY. — The Foundry is fitted with a large, powerful Steam Crane and the Cupolas are capable of 
casting up to 100 tons. The Company is prepared to supply the very best Iron and Brass Castings of all 
descriptions upon the shortest notice. 



GALVANIZING PLANT of the most modem type by electrical deposit has been put up at the Kowloon 
Establishment which is capable of doing the largest class of work. 

STORES. — The Company's Godowns contain large and well-selected stocks of all material and fittings 
requisite in shipbuilding, engine-room outfits, furnishings, and ships and ships' stores of all descriptions sup- 
plied at tariff rates. ^ 

For further particulars apply at the Offices of the Company, Queen's Buildings, No. i, Nezv Prava, 

Hongkong. 

W WILSON, 

Acting Chief Manager. 



104 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



twenty square miles with numerous sheltered 
bays. To the person who may be interested in 
the sights of a large shipping centre, the diversi- 
fied scenery and large shipping activity present 
an animated and engrossing spectacle. One of 
the very absorbing scenes of Hongkong is the 
busy thoroughfare of Queens Road, where all 
the Chinese and Indian curio and silk stores are 
located. Here are displayed in tempting array 
silverware, pottery, silks, jNIandarin robes, curios, 
jade and strange designs of jewelry, blackwood 
furniture, rattan and grass furniture, the finest 
of fabrics, and everything to attract and amuse 
the feminine taste. The grass-cloth linen, and 
Amoy and Canton drawn-work, are the finest to 
be found; but my advice to the intending pur- 
chaser is not to buy from either the native or 
European firms in Hongkong, but wait until he 
or she arrives in Canton, where the goods are 
manufactured, and, by procuring a reliable guide. 



barges and cargo boats, while the great cranes 
swing backwards and forwards, loading or dis- 
charging the trade of a mighty Empire. 

A fair street railway system has recently been 
inaugurated along the water front, and by its 
lines one may penetrate to either end of the 
island, noting the different industries, chief 
among which must be counted the Taikoo Sugar 
Refinery, which must be visited in order to be 
appreciated for its magnitude and extensiveness. 
By applying at the office at Hongkong you will 
be granted permission to go through the works. 
A clay at this place cannot fail to be well spent, 
and it requires but fifteen minutes' ride by electric 
car from your hotel. 

The Taikoo Sugar Refinery is the largest in 
the world, and you will be astonished at the great 
area covered by the buildings and docks. Alight- 
ing from your car on the hilltop you will look 
down upon a busy world, with a forest of huge 




HOXGKO.NG HARBOR LOOKING XORTHE.\bT 



will be able to obtain for about one-half what the 
same goods are sold for at Hongkong. 

The roadways along the side of the mountain 
are very fine and afford a splendid view of the 
harbor below. The best way to see the surround- 
ing country is to go by cable car to the summit 
of the peak — cars leave every half-hour, and the 
ascent is unique ; it is an experience that you 
cannot afford to omit from your programme. 
Standing at the head of the peak, just at the ter- 
mination of the tramway and in the centre of 
Victoria Gap, stands the magnificent Peak Hotel, 
its own inviting appearance rendering sufificient 
invitation to the traveler to pay his respects. 
From its broad and cool verandas you have a 
most charming view of sea and land on every side 
as far as the eye can reach. A ship twenty miles 
out at sea is plainly visible, while below you, 
apparently but a little distance down, but in 
reahty 3,000 feet beneath, lies the city and har- 
bor, forming a fine picture ; great ocean-going 
liners lie idly at anchor, surrounded by huge 



smokestacks pouring forth volumes of jet-black 
smoke. Descending and entering this little world 
you will observe with great interest the dark raw 
material which has just arrived from the planta- 
tions in the Philippines or Java, being placed in 
the great cooking pans or vats to be melted down, 
whence it is run off into large pans half filled 
with water, constantly being carried to and fro. 
The liquid is next run out of the pans through a 
copper sieve into a bag filter, serving to separate 
the dirt from the sugar, the latter now having 
become a beautiful amber-colored syrup. Next 
comes the process of filtering this syrup through 
large cylinders filled with prepared animal char- 
coal. After passing through this process it be- 
comes a pure white, transparent liquid, and, when 
converted into granulated state, becomes the 
sugar you use in every-day life upon your table. 
Only a few moments' walk from your hotel you 
will have an opportunity to witness another sight 
not elsewhere to be found for intensity of vice, 
wretchedness and filth. It seems unreal, but it is 



105 






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1 06 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



a grim reality — an opium-smoking' den of the 
lowest type, the like of which there are many in 
the Chinese district of the city ; all, strange to 
say, licensed by His Majesty's progressive Gov- 
ernment. In these places you will find congre- 
gated many different nationalities ( for opium 
smoking is not confined to the Celestial alone), 
hang in the tin}' bunks, one above the other, 
placidly puffing their way into the land of, to 
them, perpetual delight, at an expense of five 
cents per puff. No word is spoken, the only 
soimd that breaks the stillness is a soft gurgle as 
the smoke is drawn from the prepared opium pill 
on the centre of the bowl through the long- 
stemmed pipe. Some of the habitues, reclining 



several first-class buildings, occupied by hotels, 
but the management is poor, careless and inde- 
pendent, charging exorbitant prices. It is rather 
difficult to help the traveler make his choice. The 
Connaught and King Edward, however, enjoy 
the largest share of public patronage, and on the 
summit the "Peak Hotel" has a monopoly. 

The island of Hongkong was ceded to Great 
Britain by Kinshin, the Chinese Commissioner, 
and was occupied by British forces in January, 
1841 : but this treaty was disallowed by the Em- 
peror. In the following year, however, it was 
ratified by the treaty make at Nanking. On June 
26, 1843, Hongkong became, by proclamation, a 
separate colony, but continued to be governed by 




SED.\N CHAIR — HONGKONG 



in their bunks, are already in dreamland, and 
they lie there in an apparent heap, half clad, their 
clumsy opium pipe clutched in their bony hands, 
their mouths open and eyes distended until 
nothing but the yellow, bloodshot portions are 
visible. This foul, smoke-filled room, illuminated 
only by the small spirit-lamp, over which the raw 
opium is cooked, and its uncanny inmates, make 
a picture so hideous and gruesome that, once 
seen, leaves an indelible impression on the 
memory. 

The hotels of Hongkong are proverbial for 
their poorness, a strange fact to relate of so 
progressive a commercial centre. There are 



the ^Minister Plenipotentiary to China until 1857. 
Since that date its affairs have been administered 
by a Governor and an executive council composed 
of the Colonial Secretary, the officer commanding 
the troops, the Attorney-General, the Registrar- 
General, the Treasurer and the Director of Public 
Works. There is also a legislative council of ten, 
of whom five are official and five are unofficial 
members. Of the latter three are nominated by 
the Crown — one of them must be a Chinese, one 
is nominated by the Chamber of Commerce, 
and one by the Justices of the Peace. Justice is 
administered by a supreme court, a police court 
and a marine magistrate's court. 



107 






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From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



The public revenue is derived chiefly from land 
taxes and land sales, licenses, fees of court, the 
post-oflice, rent of Government property, light 
and harbor dues, opium, etc. Educational institu- 
tions are ample and free to all, there being over 
100 different establishments, with over 10,000 
pupils. Many of these institutions are maintained 
hy the Government, Queen's College being the 
principal one. In addition to this there are Saint 
Paul's College, an Anglican institution, and 
many missionary and private schools. A number 
of ably-conducted newspapers, both Chinese and 
English, are published, and at present there are 
more than ten daily papers published both morn- 
ing and evening. 

Hongkong derives special advantages from its 
position, for the entrance of the Pearl River is 
distant only twenty miles away ; thus the island 
may be said to lie at the very portals of the 
Province of Kwang-tung. These advantages had 
been recognized and pressed upon the attention 
of the British Government during the six years 
before the Union Jack was raised over the island 
in 1840, and two years more elapsed before this 
act of '"commercial and political expediency" re- 
ceived the official endorsement of China, then 
beaten to her knees by British arms. It is a 
curious fact that just as in the case of Yoko- 
hama the foreign representatives would fain 
have located the settlement at Kanagawa, where 
it could never have flourished, so in the case of 
Hongkong the British Commissioner showed at 
first an obstinate conviction that the harbor was 
strategically unsafe and that Tong-koo must be 
substituted. But the instinct of the British mer- 
chant and the British shipmaster never en^ed in 
either instance, and has been justified by the 
record of both places ; for Hongkong, as it stands 
to-day, may fairly be cited as one of the most 
striking object-lessons the world affords of mer- 
cantile foresiglit combined with an unflagging 
exercise of practical enterprise and energy. 
Whatever dangers may once have strategically 
menaced the harbor, they have now been com- 
pletely averted, for in the year 1898, when China 
underwent one of those abrogations of territory 
she suffers periodically at the hands of foreign 
powers, reasons were adduced which persuaded 
her to lease to Great Britain the hinderland of 
the Kowloon Peninsula, as she had already leased 
Kiaochou to Germany, Liao-tung to Russia and 
Kwang-chau-wan to France. The peninsula it- 
self came into British possession in i860 by a 
process illustrating the ironical traces that fate 
has left upon so many pages of China's modern 
history. England being in actual occupation of 
the peninsula — four square miles — as military 
basis for expeditions against the Chinese capital, 
the Viceroy of Canton was induced by "friendly" 
representations to grant a lease of the place to 
his country's assailant, and this lease ultimately 
took the form of a permanent concession. Yet 



so long as the hinderland remaining in China's 
hands could be seized by a power hostile to Eng- 
land, a certain, though small, measure of danger 
menaced Hongkong, and thus, in 1898, Great 
Britain obtained a ninety-nine years' lease of the 
territory behind the peninsula — 286 square miles 
of mainland and 90 square miles of island — 
to which, by way of punishment for futile re- 
sistance offered by the local authorities, she sub- 
sequently added Kowloon city. Several regi- 
ments of Indian infantry now have their quarters 
on that side of the bay, and a handsome European 
settlement is in rapid process of development ; a 
bund, massivel}' built of granite, and various 
wharves providing landing facilities. There is a 
railway now under course of construction lead- 
ing from Kowloon to Canton, where it will 
connect with the great trunk line now under con- 
struction from Canton to Peking, and within a 
very short time it will be possible to board the 




ORIENTAL DIVERSION 

cars at Kowloon city and alight in Paris, France, 
or Berlin, Germany. 

There are fine hotels in Kowloon, splendid 
docks, a school erected at the charges of patriotic 
Chinese members of the Hongkong community, 
water-works, gas-works and many other evi- 
dences of the material civilization that British 
territorial expansion always brings in its train. 
Nothing is more remarkable than the hygienic 
changes that have been effected since the Union 
Jack was first hoisted over Hongkong. The 
island lies just on the verge of the tropics, and 
has its harbor on the north so that its range of 
hills makes a barrier between the city and the 
southern breezes, essential to the well-being of 
Europeans living in the Orient. Hongkong was 
found at the outset to be a seed-plot of deadly 
diseases which proved so disastrous that the place 
of cemeteries received the appellation of "Happy 
Valley," and the very name of Hongkong caused 
a feeling of terror in the hearts of those who 



109 



WM. POWELL, Ltd. 

HONGKONG 




INTERIOR ALEXANDRA BUILDINGS 

Gentlemen's 

Outfitting 
Establishment 



28 QUEEN'S ROAD CENTRAL 

(OPPOSITE THE CLOCK TOWER) 



Hi^h-Class Drapers 

Dressmakers 

Milliners 

House and Ship 
Furnishers 

ALEXANDRA BUILDINGS 




INTERIOR ALEXANDRA nUILDIXGS 



HIGH-GRADE GOODS ONLY ^ 
:: Latest Fashions from London, Paris and New York 



China -Manila Steamship Co., Ltd, 



Hon^kon^ to Manila 




Company's Steamers 

"ZAFIRO" "RUBl" 

Warner Barns & Co., Ltd. 

Agents, Manila 



Shewan Tomes & Co., 

General Managers, Hongkong, China 

Tait & Co., Agents 

Amoy 



THE ABOVE STEAMERS WERE BUILT IN 1931, HAVING ALL THE LATEST IMPROVEMENTS FOR THE COMFORT OF 
PASSENGERS, ETC., ETC. ACCOMMODATION AMIDSHIP. ELECTRIC LIGHT, STEWARDESS AND SURGEON CARRIED 



TELEGRAPHIC ADDRESS: CODES: A, B, C, 4th AND 5th EDITIONS 

■■CARMICHAEL-HONG KONG & SINGAPORE Al WATKINS & LIEBER'S STANDARD 

TELEPHONE 232 

CARMICHAEL 6i CLARKE 

CONSULTING ENGINEERS. SURVEYORS 
SHIP- BUILDERS AND CONTRACTORS 

Hon^ Kony and Singapore 




LIGHT-HOUSE TENDER "STANLEY," BUILT TO THE ORDER OF THE HONG KONG GOVERNMENT BY MESSRS. CARMICHAEL & CLARKE 

Sole Agents for Hong Kong, Shanghai, The Straits Settlements, The Federated Malay States 

and Philippine Islands for 

THE ATLAS PRESERVATIVE COMPANY 

" Windmill Lane Wharf, Deptford, London . 

Stocks of the various Preservatives always on hand 

Preservative E is for checking and preventing corrosion in all types of steam boilers, 
also for the prevention of the formation of scale. Is used in all the leading Steamship 
Lines and in land batteries of boilers. 



SOLE AGENTS FOR THE SMOOTH-ON MANUFACTURING CO.'S SMOOTH-ON IRON CEMENTS 

BLUNDELL SPENCE'S ALUMINIUM PAINT 
MCNEILL'S PATENT MANHOLE DOORS, ETC. 



CONNAUGHT HOUSE HOTEL 



TELEGRAPHIC ADDRESS: CONNAUGH 



X HONGKONG 



TELEPHONE NUMBER: 170 




CONNAUGHT HOTEL 



A strictly First-Class Hotel in every respect, largely patronized by Tourists, Commercial 
Travellers, and Families, for residential purposes, and the recognized headquarters for travellers 
going to or returning from the Philippines. 

Central location in close proximity to all banks, telegraph stations, shopping and booking 
offices, as well as the street railway and shopping district. 



LARGE. LOFTY AND AIRY ROOMS 
FLUSH-WATER LAVATORIES 

BATHS ATTACHED TO EACH ROOM 



HOT, COLD AND SHOWER BATHS 
UNEXCELLED CUISINE AND WINES 
PRIVATE LAUNCH SERVICE FOR GUESTS 
WIDE AND SPACIOUS VERANDAS 
FANS IN SUMMER :. FIRES IN WINTER 



HYDRAULIC ELEVATOR 
EUROPEAN MANAGEMENT 



ELECTRICALLY LIGHTED 



THIS WELL-KNOWN HOSTELRY IS STRICTLY UP-TO-DATE IN EVERY ESSENTIAL DETAIL 



113 



A. S. WATSON & COMPANY. Ltd. 
The Hon^kon^ Dispensary 



ESTABLISHED, A. D. 1841 




ALEXANDRA BUILDING, HONGKONG 

Chemists and druggists. Branch stores at all the principal ports in the Far East — Manila, 
Canton, Shanghai, Tientsin, Hankow, Amoy and Foochow. 

Wine and spirit merchants. Bottlers and blenders. Having the most extensive wine 
cellars in the East, these cellars occupying the whole of the basement of the magnificent building 
shown in this cut. Aerated water manufacturers. Our Hongkong factory, which is located 
just across the street, is the most extensive in China. Branch factories at Manila, Shanghai, 
Amoy, Hankow and Canton. Cigars and Cigarette dealers and tobacconists. A large and 
varied stock always on hand. 

Travellers passing through Hongkong should pay a visit to the Hongkong Dispensan,-, 
Alexandra Building, opposite the Hongkong Hotel, where they may obtain every requisite for 
their voyage, including Toilet Articles, Patent Medicines, Druggists' Sundries, Medicinal Waters, 
Perfumery, Tobacco, Cigars, Cigarettes, Wines and Spirits, Aerated Waters, etc., etc., of the 
finest quality and at prices that will compare favorably with those ruling at home, or at any 
place along the route. 



114 



THE HONGKONG 
HIGH-LEVEL TRAMWAY 

Leading to VICTORIA GAP 





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PEAK TRAM LINE 

Few travellers passing through Hongkong know that it is the first shipping port in the world, 
fewer still are aware that there is a comfortable cable car running every quarter of an hour 
throughout the day to the top of its towering Peak, The time occupied in the ascent is ten 
minutes, and the return journey costs 50 cents Mexican, or about 25 cents gold. 

When you arrive at the top of this peak and see, on the one side, an endless stretch of sea 
dotted with islands as far as the eye can reach, and on the other, the magnificent panorama of 
Hongkong Harbor with its stately shipping, say if you have ever seen anything to equal it. 
Should you ever have the good fortune to be there on a bright, clear night, you will look down 
upon a scene which is even more sublime. After dark, every sampan in the harbor below you 
has to carry a light, and as there are many thousands of them, the effect is that of a nether firma- 
ment in which there are more stars than in a similar space above. 

Chairs may be obtained at the Gap, which WiW convey 
you in Ten Minutes to the Top 

= Time Tables and any information furnished at the office - 



ALEXANDRA BUILDING, Opposite HONGKONG HOTEL 



IIS 



KRUSE & COMPANY, Hon^kond 



Ci^ar Merchants 

and 

Tobacconists 

MANILA AND HAVANA CIGARS 

AMERICAN AND EGYPTIAN 

CIGARETTES 

TOBACCO, PIPES 

SMOKERS' REQUISITES 

DEALERS IN FANCY GOODS 

SOLE AGENTS FOR 

Columbia Bicycles 



UH^iriiii^ 


iiiiiBlllffir'i 




iiJiiakirW 




g|a 


h^r.'.A^i^'-. .:J-'-W^^^^^^^^ 


^91^^^ 


■K'^: -'J 3 


li^:!;^iiaw'r 



INTERIOR OF STORE 




THIS well-known firm handles the ven,' 
best of everything to be had in the 
smoker's line. Direct importers of 
the finest grades of choice Havana and 
Manila Cigars. Pipe tobacco a specialty, 
of which a guaranteed supply of the best 
mixture is constantly on hand. No in- 
ferior goods are sold. They can always 
be depended u.pon to meet the require- 
ments of the most fastidious. All orders 
by mail receive the most careful attention. 
This firm has but recently removed to 
their new and more commodious quarters 
in the "HOTEL MANSIONS." Inspection 
invited. 



ALL THE SMOKER'S REQUISITES 

NECESSARY FOR THE TOURIST 

AND TRAVELLER. 



INTERIOR OF STORE 



Gold Tipped Egyptian Cigarettes 

Especially Prepared for the Man 

Who Travels 



HONGKONG, CHINA 



ii6 



THE HARRIS-KEENEY CO. 

MANUFACTURERS OF 

Hi^h Grade Fibre, Rattan and Hardwood Chairs 

Originators of "SEA GRASS" and "LINEN FIBRE" Furniture 




It will pay any one to inspect 
the goods of the well-known firm 
before buying elsewhere and pay- 
ing for a crude imitation. 

All the work in the factory 
of this up-to-date industry is done 
under strict American super- 
vision, and by experienced cabinet- 
makers; all materials used are 
of the best quality obtainable. 



WE MAKE A SPECIALTY OF STEAMER CHAIRS :: NO 
BAMBOO FRAMES IN OUR CHAIRS :: WE USE ONLY THE 
BEST MALACCA FRAMES :: ALL WORK GUARANTEED 



Our process of making 
Fibre Furniture is protected 
under letters patent granted 
in England. 

Goods are securely 
packed when requested and 
shipped to all parts of Amer- 
ica and Europe. 




Showrooms, No. 2 Pedder Street, 



OPPOSITE 
HONGKONG HOTEL 



117 



F. BLACKHEAD & CO., Hondkond 

F. SCHWARZKOPF & CO. 

TSINANFU, TSINGTAU, CHINA 




FRONT OF STORE 



SOLE AGENTS FOR 



Asbest and Gummiwerke, ALFRED CAL- 
'< MON, A. G., Hamburg, Packing, Technical 
Rubber Goods, etc. 

Messrs. ALEX. FERGUSON & CO., Ltd., 
Glasgow, P. & O. and Breadalbane "Special 
Cream" Scotch Whiskies. 

■ Messrs. HAIG & HAIG, Ltd., London, Scotch 
. Whiskies. 

FLENSBURGER, ACTIEN - BRAUEREI 
I GES., Flensburg, "Flensburg Stockbeer." 



BAVARIA -BRAUEREL Hamburg-Altona, 
Tafel, Lager and Maerzenbeer. 

ANHEUSER BUSCH BREWING ASS'N. 
St. Louis, U. S. A. 

ANGLO-GERMAN BREWERY CO., Ltd., 
Tsingtau. 

AYALA & CO., Chateau d'A}- (Champagne) 

SOECHNLEIN & CO., Schierstein i/Rh' 
"Rheingold." 



Manufacturing Chemists 



SODA-CRYSTALS, CAUSTIC AND CARBONATE OF SODA, POTASH, SOLIDIFIED LUBRICATING 
.COMPOUND, TAR SOAP, AND BLACKHEAD'S DISINFECTING FLUIDS. MANUFACTURERS OF 

ALL KINDS OF SOAP 



1 18 



F. BLACKHEAD & CO., Hondkon^ 

F. SCHWARZKOPF & CO. 

TSINANFU, TSINGTAU. CHINA 





WAREHOUSES AND DOCK 



IVavy Contractors, Shipchandlers, Sailmakers, Ri^^ers, 
Wine, Beer, Spirit and Provision Merchants 



ENGINEERS' TOOLS, PACKINGS, OILS, ENGINE 
ROOM AND SHIPS' REQUISITES OF EVERY KIND 



Ships' Stores Alwa5's in Stock at 
Reasonable Prices 



SOLE AGENTS FOR- 



Coal and Water Supplied on the 
Shortest Notice, etc., etc. 



HARTMANN'S RAHTJEN'S GENUINE COMPOSITION FOR THE BOTTOM OF IRON 

AND STEEL SHIPS (Red Hand Brand) 

HARTMANN'S GREY PAINT, ESPECIALLY MANUFACTURED FOR COATING THE 

INSIDE OF STEEL SHIPS 



We Manufacture all kinds of Soap for Domestic, Technical 
and Ships' Use. Soft Soap, Salt Water Soap and Toilet Soaps 



119 



SIGHT TESTING BY FULLY 
QUALIFIED OPTICIAN 



LENSES GROUND TO ANY PRESCRIPTION 
PROMPTLY AND AT MODERATE PRICES 



BY SPECIAL APPOINTMENT TO H. E. 
THE MARQUIS OF DUFFERIN, VICEROY 
AND GOVERNOR-GENERAL OF INDIA, ETC. 



N. LAZARUS 

OPHTHALMIC 
OPTICIAN 



21 JOHN STREET, BEDFORD 
ROW, W. C, LONDON 

59 BENTINCK STREET, CALCUTTA 

566 NANKING ROAD, SHANGHAI 

5 PEDDER STREET 

(HONGKONG HOTEL BUILDINGS) 

HONGKONG - 




SPECTACLES TO SUIT ALL SIGHTS 
FRAMES ACCURATELY FITTED 



REPAIRS BY SKILLED WORKMEN 



VICTORIA HOTEL 

British Concession, Canton 




VICTORIA HOTEL 

This excellent hotel is situated on the Island of Shameen, the English settlement of Canton, 
and within two minutes' walk of the gate leading into the wonderful city of Canton 

This hotel offers the very best accommodations to the traveling public. Its rooms are 
large and air}^ with electric lights and fans in every room. Baths attached to rooms. 

The hotel furnishes competent and reliable guides to accompanv tourists through the Native 
Citv. 



THE MACAO HOTEL 

Macao, China 

This hotel, run by the same management as the above, offers excellent accommodation to 
the traveler, who visits the charming village of Macao for a few days' rest. The hotel is situated 
facing the sea and the Promenade, where it receives the sea breeze during all .seasons of the year. 

This hotel is modern in even' detail, electric lighted, electric fans in ever}' room, broad and 
spacious verandas. Terms moderate. 



WILLIAM FARMER 

Proprietor and Manager ** Victoria" and ** Macao "Hotels 



From Occident in Orient and Around the JVorld 



were ordered to that station for tour of duty. 
But by vigorous measures of sanitation, and an 
abundance of water, followed by wholesale af- 
forestation into leafy woods which now cover 
the barren slopes of the hills, the climate and 
hygienic conditions have undergone so great a 
change that to-day there are few healthier places 
in the Far East. It is true that during recent 
years the colony's reputation and prosperity have 
suffered from visitations of the plague, which 
terrible malady, though indigenous in Yunnan 
and a frequent visitor at Pakhoi, on the Gulf of 
Tonquin, did not apparently reach Canton until 
1894, crossing thence to Hongkong in the same 
year, destroying 2,500 lives in four months and 
driving away some 80,000 of the Chinese in- 
habitants. Five times during the course of the 
following seven years the disease repeated its 



ravages, but always on a decreasing scale, and 
there are now hopes that vigorous measures of 
sanitation have deprived it of serious strength. 

The revenue for 1904 was (exclusive of land 
sales) $6,322,949, being an increase of $1,594,257 
on the revenue of 1903. The remarkable increase 
being due mainl)' to a new lease of the opium 
monopoly, which brought to the treasury the sum 
of $1,975,000. Hongkong is a free port, and 
thus no accurate statistics are obtainable as to the 
foreign trade of the place. The most trust- 
worthy estimate put the total of imports and 
exports at eighty million pounds sterling, or 
some six millions more than the corresponding 
figures of Shanghai. A very large number of 
ships constantly come and go, the aggregate of 
the vessels entering and clearing annually being 
some 46,000, and their total tonnage 20,000,000. 



Information Concerning Macao 

MACAO is a Portuguese settlement near the western entrance to Canton River, China, 
forty miles v^^est of the British Colony of Hongkong, in latitude 22° 11' N., longitude 
113° 33' E. It occupies a small peninsula formerly an island but now connected by a 
narrow spit or neck of land formed by the action of the tides, with the island and prefecture of 
Hiang-shan on the north ; area four square miles. 

Macao was first settled by the Portuguese in 1577, and is the oldest European settlement 
in China. Portugal sent out a royal Governor in 1628. The sovereignty of the Portuguese 
was recognized by the Chinese Government in 1887, when it relinquished all claim to the city. 

POPULATION. — 80,000, divided as follows: Portuguese, 3,898, with the exception of 161 
individuals from various nations ; the remainder are Chinese. 

CONVEYANCES. — Jinrikishas and sedan chairs, with tariff same as at Hongkong. 

GUIDES can be procured at the hotels, at $2.00 Mex. per diem. 

HOTELS.— The "Macao Hotel" and "Boa Vista Hotel." The former is recommended to 
tourists and travelers as a first-class hotel. 

CURRENCY. — The Mexican dollar, Chinese money and Hongkong currency. 

STEAMBOAT CONNECTIONS.— The Hongkong, Canton & Macao Steamship Co.'s 
steamers leave twice daily for Hongkong, and once daily for Canton direct. Travelers leaving 
Hongkong for Macao may continue their journsy on to Canton without returning to Hong- 
kong. 

PLACES OF INTEREST. 



Fan-tan Gambling Halls 

The Porta de Cere 

The Cathedral 

Public Gardens 

St. Joseph's College 



Facade of San Paulo 
Government Palace 
Camoens Garden and Grotto 
Pria Grande Promenade 
Lottery Drawing 



INDUSTRIES. 



The opium farm 

Tea-firing, sorting and packing 

Firecracker factory 



Matting factory 
Silk filatures 
Essential oil refineries 




From Occident to Orient and Aronnd the World 



BEAUTIFUL little Macao lies about forty 
miles from Hongkong, and may be reached 
daily by the comfortable steamers of the 
"Hongkong, Canton & Macao Steamboat Co." 
A day suffices to see all that is worthy of note, 
and you may return the same evening to Hong- 
kong, or proceed from Macao direct to Canton. 
Possession of Macao was obtained in 1557 by 
the Portuguese, but whether by Imperial bounty 
or by conquest is a question upon which his- 
torians are divided. It is certain, however, that 
this was the first place in China upon which the 
Europeans gained a foothold, and equall)^ certain 
that for a long time thereafter, practicalh' during 
the eighteenth century, Macao enjoyed an en- 
viable trade with the Dutch East India Company 
and with the Chinese. But when the Island of 




RUINS OF S.^N PAULO 

Hongkong was ceded to the British and the open- 
ing of Canton to foreign trade was established, 
the commercial value of Macao rapidly dimin- 
ished, until now it is overshadowed by its more 
progressive neighbor. Certain improvements are 
under way for dredging the harbor, and it is 
possible that the city may once more regain her 
former position and prominence. 

There are two very good hotels, both on the 
European plan. Macao has taken first place in 
southern China as a resort for invalids, owing to 
its quietness and the salubrity of its climate. 

Macao is familiarly known as the Monte Carlo 
of the East, because of the elegantly furnished 
gambling saloons to be found on every hand. 
They are all conducted under Governmental 
supervision, and they pay an annual tax of several 
million dollars for the privilege of running the 
establishments. The principal game is that of 
fan-tan, the national game of China, just as poker 
is to America, or cribbage to England. The 
Macao lottery is another game of chance run by 
the Government, and once every month a drawing 



Macao 

takes place, at which over $150,000 are given out 
in prizes. Should you happen to visit Macao on 
that auspicious day you ought to witness the 
drawing, which is accomplished in all pomp and 
official demonstration ; armed sentries standing 
all around the officers while the numbered balls 
are taken, one at a time, from the peculiar ma- 
chine that in rotating mixes the balls. It is not 
an uncommon sight to notice the wealthy Chinese 
sitting around the fan-tan table for hours watch- 
ing with feverish excitement the shiny brass cash, 
as the coins are drawn from the heap b)' the 
croupier. Within a very few hours hundreds of 
thousands of dollars have been known to change 
hands. Nor is the gambling confined to the 
Chinese alone. It is indulged in by all nationali- 
ties, and is generally admitted to be a most 
fascinating game. 

The city of Macao has several beautiful drive- 
ways leading along the beach. Its gardens and 
parks teem with the most luxuriant vegetation, 
while a profusion of beautiful flowers adorn 
every terrace and walk. The cathedrals of this 
ancient city are well worthy a visit, and many of 
them date back to the time of the first occupancy 
in the clays when religion played the double role 
of Church and State. They are now decayed and 
slowly crumbling" into ruin, yet one cannot but 
be impressed with their silent grandeur. Per- 
mission to visit the interior of these cathedrals 
may be obtained from people in charge. Here 
also is to be seen the famous Grotto of Camoens, 
once the favorite haunt of the celebrated Portu- 
guese poet Camoens, who wrote the Lusiad, and 
to whose memory a momm:ent was here erected. 
Likewise you will be able to visit the noble and 
imposing faqade of the ancient Church of San 
Paulo, founded by the Jesuit Fathers, and par- 
tially destroyed by fire in 1835. The walls are 
still standing and the cross plainly marks the top 
of the tower, on which it has remained for three- 
quarters of a century. 

Macao has been the centre of Portuguese Far- 
Eastern trade since 1557, during which time its 
history has not always been free from incidents 
perennially disgraceful to the civilization of the 
Occident. Originally rented from China in con- 
sideration of a nominal annual payment of 500 
taels, Macao continued to discharge that liability 
until 1848, when the Governor, Ferreira do 
Amaral, refused to recognize the liability any 
longer and drove the Chinese authorities out at 
the point of the sword. The Government of the 
Middle Kingdom resented this high-handed pro- 
cedure in its habitual manner, that is to say, it 
assumed an attitude of dignified but unenforced 
protest, which was finally terminated in 1887 by 
a treaty recognizing Portuguese sovereignty over 
124 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 

the peninsula. Harassed by Chinese pirates in its safe retreat for both the merchant and mission- 
infancy, the Portuguese settlement subsequently ary. Here Wells Williams set up his printing 
became the haunt of European freebooters, and in press in 1844, and in the old Protestant Cemetery 
time it gained notoriety as the headquarters for a are the graves of many Britishers and Ameri- 
shameful traffic in Chinese coolies. cans who died at Macao, among them Robert 
During the stormy days of early foreign rela- Morrison, the first Protestant missionary in 
tions with China, Macao was also a place of China. 

Information Concerning Canton 

CANTON is the largest city in China, situated on the Chu-kiang, or Pearl River, in lati- 
tude 23° 7' 10" N., and longitude 113° 14' 30" E. It is the capital of two provinces, 
Kwang-tung and Kwang-si. The Viceroy and Tartar General reside at Canton, besides 
a number of other Government officials of greater or less distinction. 

POPULATION is estimated at between 3,000,000 and 4,000,000. The number of people 
living on river boats, or floating homes, is claimed to be over 400,000. 

CONVEYANCES. — Sedan chairs only are used on land ; launches or sampans on the river. 
Tariff: Sedan chair, three coolies, $1.50 Mex. per diem. 

GUIDES can be secured at hotel or at your boat when landing, for which the rates are 
$2.00 Mex. per day for a party of three ; each additional person 50 cents. Tourists and trav- 
elers wishing a good, reliable guide, one who can be depended upon to quote proper prices on 
any articles you may wish to purchase, should ask for "Bennet" ; he resides near the hotel and 
can be located easily. 

CURRENCY. — The Mexican dollar, averaging in value about 50 cents United States gold. 

HOTELS. — There is only one, the Victoria Hotel, better known as the Shameen Hotel, 
that can be recommended to the traveling public. 

TIME. — It is a general custom among tourists to give Canton only a part of a day to visit 
its different points of interest. But this is a grave mistake ; one cannot even gain an idea of 
this wonderful city in that short space of time ; . at least two days should be devoted to sight- 
seeing. Make the trip of thirty-five miles by rail, thus affording you an opportunity to see a 
vast stretch of the rural districts. 

RAILWAYS. — There is one connecting Shek Wai Tong on the Honan side of the river 
with Sam-Shui, passing through the large city of Fatshan, a total distance of thirty-two miles. 
This railway is the portion built by the world-famous "Canton-Hankow Railway Co.," or better 
known as the "American Development Company of New York," and will ever be a black page 
in the American commercial undertakings in the Far East. 

CONSULATES are all located on the little island of Shameen, the European settlement. 
Post-office (British and French), also telegraph offices, are within a minute's walk from the 
hotel. 

STEAMBOAT CONNECTIONS.— Hongkong, Canton & Macao Steamship Co. maintains 
the best service, its steamers leaving twice daily ; mornings at 8 o'clock, evenings at 5 o'clock. 
Fare, first cabin, $8.00; deck, $1.00. 

Here you take the comfortable steamers which ply 500 miles up the Chu-kiang River to 
Wuchow. It is a very interesting trip, and, if time allows, is recommended to visitors. 

LINEN AND DRAWN WORK. — Canton produces the famous Canton linen, also drawn 
work, and travelers are advised to make their purchases in this line here instead of at Hong- 
kong. The best embroidered bedspreads. Mandarin coats, etc., can be obtained at Canton, and 
far cheaper than at Hongkong. 

PLACES OF INTEREST. 

Temple of the 500 Genii Kwong-hau Temple, A. D. 250 

Kun Yam Temple Namhoi Prison 

Chun-Ka-Chie Ancestorial Temple of the Flowery Pagoda 

I2S 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



Chun clan of family 
Temple of Confucius 
City Wall, West Gate 
His Excellency the Viceroy's Yamen 
Examination Halls 
Execution Grounds 



The Gate of Virtue 

Taoita Monastery 

Residence of the Howqua Family 

Famous Water Clock 

City of the Dead 

Chin Chew Club 



Those interested in the work of missionaries should visit the American Mission Hospital, 
known as "Dr. Swan's Hospital" ; it is distant only a few moments by chair from the European 
settlement. 



Canton — China 



CANTON, the strange, weird and wonderful 
city which words can never accurately por- 
tray to the mind of the traveler, must be 
seen in order to be appreciated. 




CHINESE PAGODA 



Leaving Hongkong at 9 p. m., you will pass a 
comfortable night on board the excellent steamer 
of the "Hongkong, Canton & Macao Steamboat 
Co., and in the dim gray of the following morn- 



ing your grand floating hotel approaches the city, 
with its ever-moving mass of strange figures, 
scenes and colors, a wilderness of untranslatable 
sounds, sights and odors, out of which certain 
forms and recollections will take their place in 
your mind, never to be forgotten. Here you are 
in China proper, and among the real Chinese. 
You will see them just as they were 2,000 years 
before the Saviour walked the earth, for they have 
not changed to any noticeable degree — the cus- 
toms of that period, the methods and means by 
which they earned their livelihood, are still the 
same ; their habits and pursuits have not varied, 
and their peculiar way of living and doing things 
are still fashioned after the pattern of the first 
century. 

According to Chinese legends the city was 
founded by five Genii, clad in garments of as 
many different colors, who came riding through 
the air on five rams. All this happened 1,800 
years B. C. It is certain that Canton is the 
largest city in the Empire, although no correct 
census has ever been taken, nor is it likely that 
there ever will be. Indeed, such a thing is im- 
possible. It may be said, liowever, that the popu- 
lation is not under 4,000,000. 

The river at Canton is a mudd3^ swift-flowing 
stream, varying in width from one-fourth to one 
mile. Thousands of boats, the like of which the 
Westerner has never beheld, lie here and there, 
making navigation in places an utter impossi- 
bility ; hundreds of sampans and small canoes dart 
hither and thither. They are propelled mostly by 
women and children, the latter often mere babies. 
A mother may be seen handling a stern oar with 
one child strapped to her back, wliile several more 
sit at her feet. A little toy junk, gaily bedecked 
with bright paper and tinsel, drifts down the river 
toward the sea and passes close under the bows 
of a ship, only to disappear a minute later under 
the great paddle-wheels. It is an ofifering to 
Joss — an inarticulate prayer for the repose of 
some dweller in the regions of the dead. On the 
south a tall pagoda stands on the river bank, a 
graceful column 120 to 130 feet high, built in ten 
or twelve tiers, each slightly smaller than the one 
beneath. Birds have carried hither seeds of the 
banana tree, or thick-foliaged vines, and from the 



126 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



balconies are festoons of drooping dark-green 
creepers often falling to the stage below and 
partly hiding the narrow doors and windows 
showing in the walls of the tower. Here is an- 
other symbol of Joss worship, a sort of constant, 
automatic prayer for the blessing of the field. 

As the pink and yellow rays of the morning 
sun begin to light up the heavens you will draw 
within sight of a multitude of roofs and build- 
ings. A dull pall of smoke hangs over the whole 
city, generated during the past evening and night 
from the millions of fires, the illuminations and 
the incense sticks burning in that human ant-hive. 

Soon the river shows signs of vigorous anima- 
tion. Hundreds of crafts swarm about you, some 
plying up stream, others down. Sometimes, as 
if his very soul were in jeopardy, a native boats- 
man struggles to cross the bow of your ship, and, 
having succeeded, rests, leisurely gazing at your 
vessel until it has steamed away from him. Next 
comes to you the clamor of the boat-city. There 
are apparently millions of people in boats ; the 
water is simply alive with them. Chinese gun- 
boats, junks, houseboats, sampans, slipper boats — 
all full of busy figures. Your great steamer over- 
shadows all of them in size as she threads her 
way through this endless mass of flotsam hu- 
manity. 

The wharves are built out into the stream, and 
in the recesses between them may be seen hun- 
dreds of slipper boats, packed together like drift- 
wood in a quiet eddy of a flooded river, and so 
named because they resemble nothing in this 
world so much as an old slipper with a pointed 
toe. 

Engaging a Chinese guide, he will procure 
chairs similar to those in which you have already 
ridden at Hongkong, and you are read}' to 
journey through the oldest and strangest city on 
the globe. For some time you will travel through 
narrow, crooked lanes, in no wise resembling 
streets. You begin to wonder when you will ever 
enter a decent highway, and slowly it will dawn 
upon you that you are alread)' in the street, and, 
what is more, the principal street of the cit}'. 
Through miles and miles of these tortuous streets, 
some not over four feet wide, run the bearers, 
crossing granite bridges spanning muddy estu- 
aries and ditches, under granite archways and 
through walls from twenty to fifty feet thick. The 
streets are lined on both sides with shops, inter- 
spersed here and there with dwelling houses or 
temples; then shops again, and restaurants, or 
open stalls in wider places, where native artists 
may be seen ph'ing their trades and disposing of 
their wares. Little, if any, sunlight finds its way 
into these narrow places, their width preventing 
the intrusion of none but vertical beams, or those 
slanting parallel with the streets ; and to guard 
against even this these shade-loving people have 
stretched matting overhead. The whole city 
gives one the impression of a great bazaar, shel- 



tered and sweltering under one great, ragged 
roof. The thoroughfares in the ancient portions 
of the city vary from four to seven feet in width ; 
the more modem portions are wider, but do not 
exceed ten feet. 

These narrow ways are thronged with tens 
of thousands of people, and it is very difficult for 
a pedestrian to move about except at a snail's 
pace. Looking from above at this seething mass 
of humanity you feel that the task of walking on 
their heads would be a comparatively easy one. 
High and low, rich and poor, the business man 
and the coolie, all rub elbows. Coolies go naked 
save for the loose trousers rolled up to their 
thighs, all carrying water, firewood and burdens 
of various kinds on each end of a bamboo pole. 
When an exceptionally heavy load is to be borne, 
four or more coolies carry in the same manner. 
Peddlers convey their wares in baskets slung at 
each end of a stick, or in flat trays hung like an 
old-fashioned pair of scales, with the pole or beam 
on their shoulders. Everything used in this pe- 
culiar city is carried on the shoulders or backs of 
coolies ; transit by any other means would be im- 
possible. Thus they bear great bales of merchan- 
dise, loads of fruit, fish and all sorts of esculents 
— live rats, cats and dogs, in wicker baskets ; fat 
pigs in wicker cylinders, sometimes with their 
legs dangling out, and boxes, bales and trays of 
toys. 

Through this moving throng the exalted China- 
man, fan in hand, wends his way in dignit}^ his 
queue far down his back. Li the markets and 
streets you will see dried rats for sale. They 
have a' recognized place in the poulterer's shop 
and find a ready market. You are told by your 
guide that rat and dog meat — black dog meat — 
are eaten by many people who have a tendency to 
baldness, the flesh of these animals being con- 
sidered an eflfective hair restorer. Whether the 
flesh of black cats is used for the same purpose, 
or whether the flesh is efficacious or not, it is 
certain that very few Chinese are bald ; on the 
contrary, most of them have a luxuriant growth 
of hair. 

Horse meat is also displayed, and cat restau- 
rants have carcasses in the windows, suspended 
for the purpose of attracting the attention of the 
passer-by. Placards are placed above the doors 
to the effect that the flesh of cats and dogs can be 
served at a moment's notice. 

You will find many women and children in this 
heterogeneous throng as you pass along, the 
women hobbling on in evident pain caused by 
their tortured feet, which, from the tight bindings 
in childhood, are shrunken and diseased and the 
bones have become fleshless supports, covered 
with wrinkled, parchment-like skin, giving their 
legs the appearance of gnarled and knotted 
stumps. Occasionally you will pass the chair of 
a Mandarin, or some official of the Government, 
with the awning and blinds closely drawn ; of 



127 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



you will pass a man who hawks small wares or 
sweets, who carries in one hand a small metal 
plate with which he heralds his approach ; a 
string with a weight is attached to his finger, and 
at each movement or twitch of his hand a clear, 
musical note rings sharply upon the air — ping — 
ping — ping. Your progress may perhaps be im- 
peded by a funeral procession, which moves along 
amid a blare of discordant trumpets, beating of 
gongs and the screeching of stringed instruments, 
the mourners bearing aloft paper and tinsel dolls, 
or little trays of food and incense sticks. 

The coolies wear a flat, lamp-shade like hat, 
with a cup opening in the centre which fits upon 
the head. It appears to be designed more as a 
protection against the sun and rain than as a 
head covering. Clerks, merchants and well-to-do 
people carry their queues down their backs, and 
either go bareheaded or wear a black silk or 




CHINESE CANGUE 

satin cap without brim, surmounted by a red 
coral button in the centre. 

Everyone you meet seems busy and to have 
some occupation, and it will be noticed that not- 
withstanding the awful surroundings, no one 
appears to be unhappy. They are polite and ever 
obsequious to one another. You may see a I'ich 
merchant or gorgeously gowned Mandarin step 
aside to allow the poor coolie with a load of wood 
or water to pass by. You will find no policemen 
at the corners, and it is hard to find them any- 
where, for it is seldom they are needed ; but when 
they are, they always find someone to accuse of 
the crime whether he be guilty or innocent. 

The streets of Canton are paved with loose 
granite slabs running crosswise the width of the 
street and worn to a treacherous smoothness by 
the footsteps of centuries. They present a very 
uneven appearance. A small drain runs down 



the centre of each street underneath these granite 
slabs and about two feet below the surface, and 
into these drains runs the water, fluid refuse and 
slops of this large city. The supposition is that 
they are to run out into one of the tidal canals 
with which the city is intersected, but not infre- 
quently the flow is impeded, and consequently, in 
the course of time, the pavement is moved and 
the drains are cleaned and opened. The houses 
nearly all front on the streets and doors are prac- 
tically unknown except for the night time, when 
planks are put up to act as doors ; otherwise the 
houses are fully open to the streets, and as the 
greater portion of the town is roofed in, vapors 
from cooking continually fill the covered ways. 
Very few smells from the process of food prepa- 
ration are pleasant, and to European nostrils the 
odores from Chinese cook-pots are certainly un- 
savory. Imagine an immense mass of low and 
crowded buildings compressed into a narrow 
space, with cramped streets covered in overhead, 
all the houses open at the front and cooking going 
on in every house at the same time within a few 
feet of the pavement on which you walk. Think 
of an atmosphere, heavy with the mingled odors 
of incense. Joss sticks, opium, sandal wood, 
Chinese cabbage, strange roots and vegetables 
filling the place of our onions and garlic, wood 
smoke and vapors from fried fish shops. Add to 
the conglomerated smell thus produced an oc- 
casional reek of stagnant drainage, then possibly 
it will be understood how in Canton strange and 
peculiar odors prevail. 

The fishmongers of Canton carry on a most 
important industry. The Chinese, like the Fili- 
pino Islanders, and, in fact, all Asiatics, are great 
fishermen. For centuries the Chinese have bred 
fish artificially and have raised them in ponds 
especially constructed for the purpose. In the 
shops you will see displayed for sale live fish by 
the thousands, and of all sizes. Shark fins are 
considered a delicacy and command high figures. 
You will see fish mottled and barred, bright and 
dull, of curious and, to you (hitherto), unknown 
shapes ; but above all, there abounds everywhere 
the artificially reared live fish. 

One might spend days watching and inspecting 
the manufacture and preparation of raw silk into 
the article of commerce. The silkworm is reared 
everywhere in Canton and vicinity. The villages 
outside the city proper, where the rearing is 
carried on and the raw silk produced, are pros- 
perous looking, tidy and harmonious. There are 
no great manufacturing plants for this industry 
such as were seen in Japan. Each house becomes 
a nursery for the worm, each home a factory 
where every member of the family engages in the 
work. The wages vary, a good estimate being 
from eight to twenty cents, Mexican, per diem, 
the latter price being paid to experts only. One 
family does all the work at the loom, and two 
families are considered a large factory. The silk 



128 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



of Canton is famous, and if you have an honest 
guide you will be able to secure the very best 
at a rate so astonishingl}' cheap as to. cause you 
to wonder. It is best to allow the guide to do the 
purchasing under your direction, even though he 




CANTON TEMPLE 

does receive a light "squeeze" from the merchant 
Another equally interesting occupation is the 
carving of ivory. It is simply wonderful with 
what skill, rapidity and accuracy these experts 
carve from an elephant's rough tusk objects of 
remarkable beauty — gods and devils, caricatures 
of human forms and objects unlike anything on 
earth or in the heavens above. Animals, birds 
and creeping things grow out of dead ivory to 
take shape, and almost seem to live in their 
grotesque gambols around the spiral tusk. Paper- 
knives and weights, jewel-boxes, combs, backs 
for brushes, ornaments, hairpins, globes within 
globes, toys and many other strange articles are 
given birth within these primitive shops. 

Among other interesting specimens of antiquity 
to be seen is the famous \'\' ater Clock or Clepsy- 
dra, known to the Chinese as Tung \Vu Ti Low, 
or copper jar water dropper. This stands on an 
arched tower and is approachable by a flight of 
granite steps. The building was erected during 
the Tang Dynasty, A. D. 626, by a rebel chieftain, 
and it was restored A. D. 947 by Low Chang, 
who captured the city. It was destroyed by fire 
A. D. 1333 and rebuilt in 1366; and again partly 
destroyed in the bombardment of Canton in 1857 
by the British. The Clepsydra is placed in a 
separate room under the supervision of a man 
who, besides earning a small salary, sells time- 
sticks for a livelihood. These sticks are really 
incense sticks on which the hours are marked off, 
so that when they burn to a certain point the 
correct time is known. The clock itself consists 
of four jars covered with copper plates standing 
on a brickwork stairway, the top of each jar 
being level with the one above. The largest of 
the three measures twenty-three inches high and 



is of like diameter, containing seventy catties or 
ninety-seven and one-half pints of water. The 
second is twenty-three inches high and twenty- 
one inches in cUameter ; the third is twenty-one 
inches high and twenty inches in diameter, while 
the fourth is twenty-one b}' nineteen inches. Con- 
nection is made between these jars by a trough, 
along which the water trickles at the base of each 
jar, and a floating index to regulate the time is 
set at 5 o'clock both morning and evening, the 
water being dipped back to the upper jar when 
the index records the half-day, and so on, the 
water being renewed every three months. Near 
the jars stand two large drums which record the 
different watches of the night. Clocks of this 
description date from 1324. To-day, as in the 
days of old, the attendants place upon the wall at 
every hour a board on which is recorded the time 
of the da}' or night, and on another board the 
periods of the moon are set forth. 

CHINESE TORTURES.— Should you be of 
a curious disposition and care particularly for the 
gruesome, you may see an execution if you wish 
by simply requesting your guide to conduct you 
to the execution ground, situated in the centre 
of the city. 

The Department of Justice of this corrupt old 
Empire is conducted on the principle that the 
pain of torture will, in the long run, compel one 
accused or guilty of crime to make a confession. 
With this end in view, but not so often attained, 
hundreds are daily tortured in the Canton prisons 





I 

C • tip ' " ,' V 


■ I^^B aBfe?*^ ''' 


'■■^ -T— -2?: 







WATER CLOCK 



by the most cruel means known to the world, ex- 
ceeding in horror even those of the Spanish In- 
quisition and Tamerlane, while thousands are 
monthly decapitated for crimes of greater or less 
magnitude, real or fanciful. 



129 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



At noon each day you can enter and visit any 
of the numerous prisons and see the surroundings 
of the inmates. That which you behold — the 
torture and punishment inflicted upon these poor 
wretches — impresses you with the fact that China 
is yet a long way from emerging out of her 
savage and barbarous state. At this hour the 
official in charge may be seen leisurely entering 
the prison yard dressed in the most gorgeous of 
silks, accompanied by two servants, one of whom 
fans him, the other ready to fill and light his pipe. 
His nature having been hardened by his cus- 
tomary duties, he takes his seat, and all through 
the terrible spectacle he appears utterly uncon- 
scious of the sufferings of his victims. The 
prisoners are made to kneel before him, chained 
together. In front of each of them is placed a 
pot of ink and a piece of white paper. By dipping 
into the ink and making the print of his hand 
upon the paper the prisoner signifies his willing- 




LING CHI, S.iVENTY-TWO CUTS 

ness to confess — to confess everything — and 
thereby escape the terrible torture. 

At the opening of the court an hour or more is 
spent by the prison official in questioning the 
prisoners regarding the crime or crimes charged 
to them, and, faihng to evoke a confession, he 
may inflict one of the many different tortures 
prescribed by Chinese law, the first mentioned 
being that of driving bamboo splints under the 
finger nails to the first joint; and should the 
prisoner continue obdurate they are driven to the 
second and third joints. Kneeling upon red-hot 
chains and burning the sinews of the leg; hang- 
ing up by the thumbs, or by the toes, head down, 
until blood runs from the prisoners' ears and 
nose ; and numerous others too gruesome to men- 
tion are among the methods employed. 

It not infrequently happens that a prisoner dies 
from the severity of the torture inflicted, and in 
this event the official himself is liable to severe 



punishment or decapitation. This seldom, if ever, 
occurs, for as soon as the victim becomes uncon- 
scious he is dragged back to prison, and if death 
overtakes him there no blame is attached to the 
official. 

The earHest allusions to prisons in China were 
made during the Chow Dynasty, 1122 B. C, when 
the Cow Li, or regulations to officers, were issued. 
A man is not confined in a Chinese prison for a 
term of years in expiation of a crime, but only 
to await punishment or trial; and if the prisoner 
be a man of means he is ofttimes held on purpose 
so that the officials can extort money from him, 
no matter if they know or believe him to be per- 
fectly innocent. The Nam Hoi Prison, the one 
usually shown to visitors, consists of a single- 
story building, very small, too small, indeed, for 
its needs. The inmates are compelled to sleep 
on the damp earthen floor, where decaying filth 
has accumulated for years. As a rule, the night 
in this miserable hole — the 
prison — is twenty-four hours 
long, for the light of heaven, 
even in small gleams, never 
penetrates its dark walls. 

The principal execution 
ground is in the heart of the 
city and is about 200 feet long 
and 100 feet wide, and sur- 
rounded on three sides by brick 
buildings. In this small space 
hundreds of thousands of peo- 
ple have been executed. In a 
small room adjoining this fatal 
spot there lives an old man, the 
official executioner, a veteran 
in the service. He was ap- 
pointed by Li Hung Chang 
when the latter was A'iceroy at 
Canton. As a compensation he 
is allowed twenty cents, Alexi- 
can, by the Government for 
each decapitation, provided he beheads with one 
stroke. Often the head is not completelv severed 
from the body, and to make certain of h'is twenty 
cents he saws the head oflf without lifting the axe 
after the first stroke. This old man, like 
"Johnny-on-the-spot," is always at hand, for he 
never knows when an execution may take place. 
Walking along the streets one often encounters 
soldiers administering the lash to a prisoner 
whom the Judge has sentenced to be rattaned 
through the district where he has committed some 
petty crime. Two soldiers travel ahead, one with 
a gong, the other holding a rope, the one end 
of which is tied around the victim's neck. Two 
more soldiers walk behind the prisoner, one with 
a double rattan, the other carrying a revolver and 
acting as a guard. At each stroke of the gong 
by the soldier in front the rattan strikes the 
prisoner with all possible force. At each two 
successive strokes of the gong the rattan is so 



130 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



applied that the ends come together along the 
prisoner's sides, and a piece of flesh as large as a 
quarter of a dollar is cut from the body. After 
enduring this torture for months, and the last 
spark of hope of freedom having faded from the 
unfortunate's heart, the prisoner makes a con- 
fession, following which he is placed in a separate 
cell to remain imtil a sufficient number of his 
companions are gathered for execution. When 
the fatal day arrives each prisoner is placed in 
what is known as a pig basket, suspended from a 
bamboo pole carried by two men, and thus taken 
to the execution ground, where his troubles are 
at last brought to a close. 

Ling Chi is considered the extreme punishment 
in the Empire, and administered only to officials 
or persons committing some grave oft'ense against 
the Government or the ruling monarch. Ling 
Chi consists of seventy-two cuts on the bod\', 
each cut removing a part of it. The details are 
too horribly shocking to enter 
into here ; let it suffice to saj- 
that the visitor to the interior 
of China may have the oppor- 
tunity of seeing it performed 
almost any da}-. 

Slow hanging is another form 
form of punishment much in 
vogue. The condemned man is 
placed in a wooden cage in a 
standing position, his head pro- 
truding at the top from a 
wooden collar placed around 
his neck, while ropes are so 
arranged from the four corners 
of the cage around his neck that 
he is compelled to tiptoe in or- 
der to prevent strangulation. 
Remaining in this position for 
hours and many times for days, 
he at last becomes exhausted 
and, settling down on the flat of 
his feet, is choked to death, thence out of misery. 

Death by starvation is another device employed. 
The victim is thrust into a cage similar to that 
used in strangulation, with the dreadful cangue 
around his neck. In this position he is compelled 
to remain and suft'er for days. After a time hot, 
steaming food is placed within a few inches of 
his nostrils so that he may inhale the odor. The 
sufferings are horrible and only terminate when 
welcome death steps in and ends the pitiable 
plight. 

With the foregoing sufficient mention has been 
made of methods of punishment. It remains but 
to add that what has been said in this connection 
concerning Canton is applicable to all parts of 
the Chinese Empire, and you can witness any of 
these sights at Canton within the course of a few 
hours ; and, unfortunately, there seem to be no 
reasonable grounds to hope for modification of 
the existing law. 



FLOWER BOATS — MARRIAGES IN 
CHINA. — You must avail yourself of an evening 
in Canton to make a trip to the flower boats and 
partake of a Chinese dinner on board. The most 
elaborate of their kind in the Empire, these boats 
are richly decorated with magnificent carvings 
and gildings in green and gold. The furniture 
is of the most expensive type, made entirely of 
blackwood, for which China is famous, and inlaid 
with mother-of-pearl ; and there are large, cush- 
ioned divans upon which the Chinese gentrj' and 
merchants may calmly repose and enjoy at will 
their opium pipes. These boats represent the 
nightly resort of the wealthy merchants, where 
the business of the day is talked over and plans 
for the future unfolded. 

Dinner on one of these floating palaces is 
served in a style quite equal to that of Sherry's, 
in New York, or Tate's, in San Francisco, and 
often consists of from sixtv to seventv different 




AFIEU THE EXECUTION 

viands. You are served with tea which costs 
from $i8 to $20 per catty. The menu is supple- 
mented by various kinds of salted nuts, almonds, 
walnuts, chestnuts, peanuts and the luscious litchi. 
For the delectation of the guest the cooks pre- 
pare delicious bird's-nest soup, shark fins, pickled 
fruits and preserved ginger, and numerous other 
dainties previously unknown to the traveler. 
During the meal you are fanned by a handsome 
and gorgeousl)^ attired native girl, who stands 
at your side and cracks watermelon seeds with 
her pearly teeth, placing the kernels beside your 
plate upon a Satsuma dish suitable for a king. 

In the progress of the meal you will have oc- 
casion to see and hear the peculiar and strangely 
shaped musical instruments of the Chinese. 
Stranger than the instruments themselves are the 
peculiarly discordant sounds they emit, their 
squeaks scraped out seemingly at random, inter- 
spersed with the crashings of cymbals and the 



131 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



beatings of drums and gongs. At first yon are 
cognizant only of a confusion of sounds, but if 
you have the patience to hsten intently for a 
time you will be able to distinguish here and there 
a bar of music of a quality never heard before. 

The flower boats of Canton are & sort of matri- 
monial bureau. There are beautiful native girls 
on each one, bought when mere babies, and raised 
by the matron of the boat, or, as she is better 
known, the "pocket-mother," who keeps a con- 
stant watch over them until the}' are of a saleable 
age. If a wealthy Chinaman fancies a certain 
girl he can purchase her as a wife, the price 
ranging from a few hundred dollars to — in many 
cases — several thousand, the price depending 




DEATH BY STRANGULATION 

largely upon the beauty of the girl and the mag- 
nitude of the affection she has engendered in the 
heart of the purchaser. 

When a man wishes to marry in China, his first 
wife is selected for him by his parents, and in all 
cases he never sees her until the day set for the 
wedding ceremony, when she is ushered into his 
presence with a silken mantle over her head and 
face. After he has married the one, he is at 
liberty to purchase as many more wives as he is 
able to support, for it is but seldom that the first 
wife suits him. The second wife is known as 
No. 2, the next No. 3, and so on, often running as 
high as ten and twelve — consequently the main- 
taining of these elaborate flower boats at Canton. 



THE SENSATION OF LOSING ONE'S 
SELF IN CANTON.— Canton seems as a night- 
mare, and as you pass through its cramped pas- 
sages a chill creeps over you at the thought of 
what might happen were you to get lost. It is 
difiicult to conceive of a more ghastly dream than 
to experience the sensation of being lost in the 
cruel maze of these crooked streets. Everywhere 
it is dark and sinister — shut in from the liglit of 
the sky — and the way seems to lead on for miles 
and miles, so that one might wander for days ere 
the outer wall and the green rice-fields are 
reached. The streets are corridors in a prison, 
like subterranean trenches, or the railway tunnel- 
ing in the Rocky jNIountains of America. The 
walls on either side seem to be 
creeping upon and closing 
around you, and a fear of be- 
ing crushed between their 
greasy surfaces clutches at your 
heart. 

The stench in the air during 
the summer months is 'almost 
unbearable. The alleys are full 
of sallow crowds, some in 
dingy clothes, others in gorge- 
ous silks, and some in bare, 
yellow skin. Their shaved 
heads and grinning teeth strike 
an added fear in your heart as 
you hurry by like a hunted 
thing from lane to lane ; they 
stare at you with curious faces, 
and there comes to you a mem- 
ory of their deviltry, their mur- 
derous risings and their fiendish 
cruelty. You are filled with 
alarm and imagine yourself imprisoned as your 
nerves run up to their highest tension. You are 
seized with a great desire to escape before the 
walls, bedecked with joss paper, crush you, and 
the stench stifles or the growing crowds trample 
you in the mudd}', slimy streets. There is no 
sound about that would recall our cities, only a 
muttering in an unknown tongue, and the tramp, 
tramp, of tens of thousands of padded feet. 

Words fail me, and it is utterly impossible to 
portray this wonderful city, the most weirdly 
interesting place on the face of the globe, and I 
can only say to the traveler that at any cost he 
must see Canton. 



Wuchow, China 



TIME permitting, the tourist who loves the 
wilder phases of nature, broken into in- 
numerable pictures of surpassing beauty, 
should make the trip along the Si Kiang, or West 
River, as it js more familiarly called, between 
Canton apd the city of Wuchow, at the head of 



132 



navigation. This trip will take you 250 miles 
farther into the interior and affords a scenic 
panorama of valleys and hills, mountains and 
rivers, fields and forests, great, high, picturesque 
walls of rock, fern- and moss-covered crags, 
gorges and cascades that have no equal. After 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



leaving Canton you steam for the greater portion of the 
day through what is known as the Canton Delta. A low- 
lying country stretches around you, and as far as the tyt 
can reach one vast field of waving rice, swaying to and fro 
in the sunlight, appears as a shimmering sea of dark green 
water. Here and there the scenery is broken by a five-, 
six-, eight- or even ten-storied pagoda towering above this sea 
of rice ; a grim sentinel, worshiped by the superstitious Chinese 
as the continual abiding place of the God of the Harvest. 

Leaving Canton at eight in the morning, at five o'clock 
p. M. you reach the out-lying spurs of the Himalayas and 
enter the Shui-Hing gorge, where the view changes from 
the grand to the terrific. This gorge is so deep and narrow 
in places that the sun barely enters. The yellow, treacherous 
waters of the great river force their way through this narrow 
passage at an indescribable rate of speed, and the current 
is so strong that even the progress of your steamer is hardly 
noticeable at times. You are now in the heart of the moun- 
tains, and above the walls of the canon you occasionally catch 
a glimpse of the great peaks gleaming against the sky. On 
leaving the gorge the river widens, then again narrows and 
forms tortuous channels and defiles, through which your 
steamer carefully threads her way. 

You move on slowly amidst fascinating scenery, and after 
playing hide-and-seek, as it were, through these lovely regions, 
you come to the beautiful little Shui-Hing Valley, nestled 
among the hills, and filled from end to end with vast fields 
of sugar cane. Just above, on the highest promontory, stands 
out in bold relief against the blue sky a nine-story pagoda — 
a guard against Fung Sui ( Bad Spirit ) . The hills on either 
side of the river are gracefully terraced from top to bottom, 
literally covered with growing tea. 

Wuchow is a city of over 50,000 inhabitants, and its history 
offers some points of great interest to the traveler. Wuchow 
was in the very track of the now famous Taiping Rebellion 
of fifty year ago, which caused the Imperial throne of China 
to totter to its very foundation and came near changing the 
destiny of the Empire. The people in the Taiping country 
are to this day as rebellious as ever, though cowed from 
open insurrection by the presence of large bodies of Govern- 
ment troops. You can still see traces of the one hundred days' 
siege through which the city passed, for at that time it was 
almost totally destroyed and 25,000 persons of all ages, many 
of whom were innocent and inoffensive, were most foully 
murdered. It is said that the streets actually ran red with 
the blood of the slain. 

The city lies at the junction of the Fu Ho and West Rivers 
and is the trans-shipping point for the vast countries lying 
between there and India. It presents a busy scene, teeming 
with innumerable queer-looking craft floating in the mouth 
of the Fu Ho, and thousands of huge cargo boats lie side 
by side for miles along the banks. As you look down upon 
them from the high banks above they resemble a busy city. 
Great junks, used in the transportation of salt for the Imperial 
Government, are constantly arriving and departing for distant 
points in the interior. It is impossible for these boats to 
use their own sails in the narrow waterways, therefore they 
are towed by means of a rope attached to their masthead in 
like manner as our canal boats at home, with the exception 
that here women and children, as a rule, instead of mules, 
walk along the tow-path. You will never tire of watching this 
maze of boats which constitute the homes for life of thousands 

133 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



of people. If you tarry long enough you will see 

every description of cargo being discharged. The 

1^ air is delightfully fragrant from the annis seed 

^ and camphor logs which form the bulk of the 

cargo. You will also observe great cargoes_ of 

indigo being 
trans-shipped 
to the refin- 
eries at Can- 
ton. Here 
and there are 
large passen- 
ger boats 
crowded with 
Chinese trav- 
elers going 
from place to 
place. All 
these passen- 
ger boats are 
fitted with enormous stern paddle-wheels, and 
have'no motive power save thirty or forty slaves, 
who are locked in the stern and compelled to 
tread the paddles of the great wheels for hours 




Photo J. A mold. 



WEST KI\"K1< 



and hours until relieved or the end of the journey 
is reached. 

The annual inundation caused by the rise and 
fall of the river makes a difiference of sixty feet 
between the winter and summer levels, and forms 
a source of 
great incon- 
venience t o 
the inhabit- 
ants, causing 
at times a to- 
tal cessation 
of business. 
To obviate 
this difficulty 
the principal 
steamship of- 
fices, the for- 
eign custom- pi,otoJ.An,old. 

house and the 
native customs and likin stations, together 
with numerous shops and hotels, are located on 
pontoons moored alongside the river bank with 
great log chains to hold them. 




WEST Rl\i:i 



Information Concerning Manila 

MANILA is situated on the western coast of the Island of Luzon, at the eastern end of 
Manila Bay; latitude 14° 35' N., longitude 120° 38' E. 

POPULATION. — 293,814 (not including over 3,000 members of the United States 
Army) but inclusive of 218,000 natives, chiefly Tagalogs, 60,680 Chinese, 7,852 foreigners, 
largely Spaniards, and 6,462 Americans. 

HISTORY. — The city received its new charter of incorporation from the Philippine Com- 
mission July 31, 1901, by which the government is vested in a municipal board of three members 
appointed by the Civil Governor. 

The Spanish took possession of Manila in 1571. The city was sacked by Chinese pirates 
in 1574. In 1590 the present fortifications were begun. An insurrection of Chinese residents 
of the city was quelled in 1602, attended by great severity, several thousand of the insurgents 
being killed. The same year the city was blockaded by the Dutch. In 1762 it was captured 
and sacked by the English, who occupied the city until 1764. 

On May i, 1898, Admiral Dewey destroyed the Spanish fleet in Manila Bay, and on August 
13th the city capitulated to American forces. On February 4, 1899, the Filipinos attacked the 
American forces on the outskirts of Manila. Transfer of military to civil government took 
place August 7, 1901. 

Manila has a number of times suffered from earthquakes, the most terrible of which occurred 
June 3, 1863, when all the prominent buildings were destroyed and several thousand people 
kiled. 

RAILWAYS. — 125 miles of good track run to Dagupan, north of Manila, with several 
brsmch lines. Extensive railroad construction is now in course of building in all parts of the 
archipelago, for which purpose $40,000,000 have been appropriated by the Government. 

CONVEYANCES. — Carromatos at 50 cents per hour; victorias at $2.00 per hour. 

STREET RAILWAY. — Manila has forty miles of the best street railway system that can 
be found anywhere in the world, leading to every portion of the city, and a line running north 
to Malabon, and one south to Malate. 

HOTELS. — A $2,000,000 hotel is now in course of erection, and, when completed, will be 
the finest hotel in the world constructed for a tropical country. At present there are three so- 
called hotels, offering fair accommodations to the traveling public. 

134 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



BANKS. — International Banking Corporation of New York, the Hongkong & Shanghai 
Banking Corporation, the Chartered Bank of India & Austraha, and several others. 

BUSINESS HOUSES are principally situated on the streets known as the Escolta and 
Calle Rosario. 



HOW TO GET THERE FROM MANILA. 



Sailings 
Monthly 



SINGAPORE Spanial Royal Mail 

HONGKONG Eastern & Australia S. S. Co 

China & Manila S. S. Co Weekly 

MELBOURNE, AUSTRALIA Eastern Australia S. S. Co Monthly 

ISLAND PORTS Various Steamship Lines Weekly 



PLACES OP INTEREST. 



Cathedral, three times destroyed by earth- 
quake and three times rebuilt 

Greatest observatory in the world 

Royal and Pontifical University of Santo 
Tomas 

College of San Juan de Letran 

Old Fort Santiago, southern part of 
city 

Manila cigar factories 



Trip to Cavite, across the bay. 



The Statues of Charles IV and of Isabella 

II 
Luneta drive during the evening 
Constabulary Band on Luneta 
Public gardens 
Government printing plant 
The world's largest ice plant 
Leper Hospital 
Civil Hospital 



DISTANCES FROM MANILA TO 



Miles 

Hongkong 640 

Shanghai 1,130 

Nagasaki 1.330 

Chemulpo 1,450 

Moji 1,460 

Yokohama 1,760 



Miles 

Singapore 1,520 

Kobe 1,557 

Vladivostock 1,865 

Hakodate 2,060 

Seattle 5,97° 



Manila Bay 



THIS large, beautiful inlet of the China Sea 
runs into the central part of Luzon on the 
western coast. It has, roughly, the shape 
of a triangle with its base line thirty-seven miles 
long, forming the head of the bay southeast to 
northwest, while its apex is at the entrance, eleven 
miles wide. The depth of the bay from the en- 
trance to the base is twenty-five miles. To the left 
or north of the entrance tower the Mariveles 
Mountains, densely forested, while at their base is 
nestled the picturesque little village of the same 
name. Farther on the shore consists of the 
marshy delta of the Rio Grande de la Pampanga, 
which enters the bay through numerous mouths, 
between which tall reeds and pampas grass grow 
far out into the shallow water. 

On the right or south shore is a low-lying 
country, with a gradual incline extending back 
from the water's edge for thirty or forty miles 
to the charming plateaus and mountains of 
Cavite, that rise a thousand feet above sea level. 

Entering the harbor and steaming across the 
bay you will be able to distinguish extensive and 



thriving plantations of sugar cane, coffee, hemp, 
rice, tobacco, and miles of cocoanut groves ap- 
pearing as a sea on the lower lands. Then the 
sun rises slowly from its couch beyond the hills 
back of Manila, flooding the great amphitheatre 
that lies before you with its light and glory, 
awakening the fields, meadows, rolling uplands, 
mountains, towns and cities to another day of 
activity. Birds are heard on every hand, herald- 
ing their morning songs from the tree tops and 
impressing you with the reality of being in a 
tropical paradise. As the sun climbs higher you 
steam toward the head of the bay to anchorage, 
and the historic city of Manila, a thriving, pros- 
perous, commercial centre of the Far East, with 
its spires, domes and stately old walls, becomes 
distinctly visible; almost modernized within a 
few years, save for the old buildings and walls 
that still remain, monuments grim and silent, that 
scarcely savor of civilization. 

The greater part of Manila Bay has a sufiicient 
depth to afford good and ample anchorage for 
the largest ships in existence, and for harbor 



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Philippine 
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136 



From Occident to Orient and Around the IVorld 



purposes it cannot be surpassed in the Far East. 
The entrance is well lighted by a large new light- 
house on Corregidor Island, and another on the 
smaller island of Caballo. 

The bay connects through the Pasig River at 



Manila with the large Laguna de Bay, twenty 
miles in the interior. Manila Bay is now famous 
as the scene of the victory of Admiral Dewey 
over the Spanish fleet on ]\Iay i, i8g8, and 
America's first endeavor at colonizina:. 



Manili 



THE port and city of Manila are particularly 
interesting to the traveler from America, 
and, in fact, to all travelers, in view of the 
historic surroundings that literall}' environ them. 
They are exceptionally interesting, also, as mark- 
ing the initial step of American colonization. On 
every hand are noticeable numerous monuments 
of substantial improvements, made since the 
American occupation, and that will prove of in- 
estimable benefit for all time to coming genera- 
tions. 

Manila, as well as all principal cities of the 
Archipelago, shows wonderful changes in the 
way of modern improvements and better com- 
mercial advantages. One of the colossal under- 
takings in the form of recent achievement that 
comes directly under the eye of the new arrival 



eighteen feet deep at mean low water, from 
which a bulkhead extends approximately parallel 
to the shore line and about i,8oo feet from it to 
the line of the east breakwater. Between this and 
the outer wall is an area of 350 acres dredged 
to a depth of thirty feet at mean low water. The 
sea walls surrounding this space have also been 
extended and built up, while the interior fur- 
nishes a safe and smooth basin in which ships 
drawing not more than thirty feet find protection 
against typhoons. Solid masonry piers will like- 
wise extend at right angles from the main deck, 
against which vessels may be moored. It has 
recently been deemed necessary to make an ad- 
ditional appropriation of $1,000,000 for the gi- 
gantic undertaking, and when the work is com- 
pleted, as per contract agreement in 1907, Manila 




LUNET.Aj MANILA 



is the building of the new harbor and docks of 
Manila. 

Shortly after American occupation it was 
deemed necessarj' to improve and enlarge the 
harbor so as to handle more conveniently the 
rapidly increasing shipping industry. Conse- 
quently in the latter part of 1900 the Philippine 
Commission made an appropriation of $3,398,000, 
U. S. currency, to build a huge, solid masonry 
breakwater and docks. The work now under 
construction is composed of a detached break- 
water extending" for a distance of 3,000 feet ap- 
proximately parallel to the shore line, with an 
entrance 710 feet wide at mean low water. The 
old walls formerly constructed by the Spanish 
have been utilized to form a small inner basin 



will offer to the shipping world a safe and com- 
modious harbor, ranking with the best of the 
Eastern and Western Hemispheres. 

You will find the city of Manila surprisingly 
modern, and in many respects changed from its 
mediseval ways to a thriving and progressive 
commercial centre within a short space of time. 
A perfect electric street railway penetrates to 
every quarter of the city; it is equipped with the 
latest and most improved sewer and water sys- 
tem in the East ; has handsome driveways, ma- 
cadamized streets, and, in fact, everything that 
goes to make life healthful and comfortable in 
the tropics. 

A very extensive operation is now under way 
toward beautifying the city. Many of the old 



137 




ISUAN 



A Product of the Philippines. 

Bottled by American enterprise 
at Los Bafios. 

Guaranteed absolutely pure and 
is the most delicious mineral 
water in the world. 



THE LOS BANGS IMPROVEMENT CO. 

MANILA, P. I. 




138 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



walls surrounding the city have been removed, 
the old moats filled and the space devoted to 
large parks for public use and pleasure. Several 
broad boulevards have been opened up through 
the city in both directions by purchasing the 
property along the streets and tearing down the 
buildings. The future of Manila is now assured 
— it is destined to become the most important 
shipping community of the East. 

Among the famous places in and surrounding 
Manila may be mentioned the Bilibid Prison^ 
more particular!}' brought to notice during the 
past few years as sheltering many notables over- 
zealous in the insurgent cause. In this great 
prison all inmates are usefully employed at labor 
of some description, all being required to learn 
a trade during their confinement. You may see 
them making beautiful hardwood furniture from 
the magnificent woods of the islands ; working at 
rattan ware, carving ornaments from the buffalo 
horn, sewing clothes, making carriages, furniture 
of sea grass, bamboo and bejuco. There are 
silversmiths, boot and shoemakers, saddlers and 
harness makers, etc. By this means of industrial 
reformatory the prisoners learn some useful oc- 
cupation, take up lines of independent thought, 
and thus within a remarkabW short period be- 
come fitted for better citizenship. 

It is ver)' gratifying to know that the greater 
portion of the convicts, when released, become 
good, industrious, law-abiding members of the 
community, and in many instances are looked 
upon with envy by their neighbors as men who 
can do work like the Americans. They have no 
desire to return to their former unlawful pur- 
suits, but are happy and contented with building 
a home, and by honesty and industry surround 
themselves and their families with the necessities 
that formerly they would have considered lux- 
uries, had they known or even thought of such 
things. The visitor to the Philippines is advised 
to go through this prison, for you will find it 
intensely interesting as affording a good example 
of what proper discipline can accomplish. 

OBSERVATORY.— This important depart- 
ment of the Philippine Government so admirably 
managed b}' the Jesuit Fathers is one that must 
not be overlooked by the tourist.' Here are in- 
stalled the finest and most delicate instruments 
in the world for recording the approach of t}'- 
phoons and seismic disturbances, the reports 
from this point being accepted in preference to 
all others along the Asiatic coast. At this ob- 
servatory Father Jose Algue. the director, stood 
for hours watching the delicate instrument swing 
to and fro over the smutted paper recording the 
great seismic disturbance during the San Fran- 
cisco earthquake, and he made known to the 
residents of Manila long before word was re- 
ceived from San Francisco that a terrible earth- 
quake was in action at some distant part of the 



globe. You may be astonished to learn that 
seismic vibrations of the earth occur almost every 
hour of the day and night in the Philippines, 
which are only noticeable to and recorded by 
these instruments. In this observatory 3'ou will 
have an opportunity^ to examine a very fine relief 
map of the Philippines that will teach you con- 
siderable about the islands within a short time, 
such as the religious and political divisions of the 
archipelago; the regions inhabited by the dif- 
ferent races and tribes ; mineral resources and 
mineral springs (hot and cold) ; forestry and 
agricultural products ; the distribution and rela- 
tive frequency of earthquakes ; the distribution 
of precipitation during the month of August, 
which is typical of the rainy season. Here also 
may be seen a magnificent relief map of Jilayon 
and Taal volcanoes. 

The Jesuit Fathers have been awarded four 
Grand Prizes and five gold medals for the col- 
lection of maps and mechanical inventions per- 
fected by them. 

FORTS. — A drive out through the southern 
part of the city to the old fort of San Antonia, 
or Malate, will be found full of interest. It was 
at this fort the Spanish made so gallant a stand 
when the city was attacked by the forces of 
Aguinaldo in 1896. and where they made their 
last stand at the time the American army entered 
^Manila. It was again the scene of a fierce en- 
counter the following morning after the Filipinos 
rebelled against the Americans, when the navy 
was compelled to fire on the fort to drive the 
natives back, and even now the marks of both 
artillery and navy shell are plainly visible in the 
heavy walls. 

RIVER LIFE. — A very livel)' scene is por- 
trayed in the boat life of the Pasig River and 
Bay, where about 16,000 human beings, with 
their retinue of fighting cocks and other domestic 
animals, live on board the crafts that ply these 
waters. In such floating homes many of these 
people first saw the light of day; there they live 
their allotted time, marry, rear their children, and 
only become land dwellers when they die and 
are buried in the cemeteries, and then only be- 
cause the laws prohibit the casting of the dead 
into the river or harbor. 

The conditions of the life the}' lead present 
many features that would evoke the condemna- 
tion of the sanitarian. These natives are below 
the average in intelligence and revel in the prac- 
tice of many unsanitary vices. 

CATHEDRALS.— Manila possesses many 
ancient churches and cathedrals. The most 
notable edifice within the city is the cathedral 
founded in 1578, and several times destroyed by 
earthquakes that made havoc in Manila. The 
present structure, of Roman Byzantine style, is 



139 



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Manila, Philippines 



From Occident to Orient and Around the Jl'orld 



partially on the site of the one destroyed by earth- 
C|uake in 1863, a portion of which yet stands. 
The new building is large, commodious and per- 
haps the most imposing on the islands. It cost 
approximately a half million dollars. Within its 
portals the Archbishop of Manila celebrates mass, 
and during the Spanish regime it was the scene 
of many public and official functions of great 
splendor. In addition to the cathedral there are 
eleven churches of more or less antique origin 
and renown. 

The cathedral can be visited at any time. It 
is a structure grand in the extreme sense of the 
extreme sense of the word, over 300 feet long 
and 200 feet wide. The large columns appear 
like one of the gigantic redwoods of California, 
towering in impressive majesty far above their 
surroundings, and yet not ungraceful, because 
their enormous circumference makes them sym- 
metrically beautiful, notwithstanding their great 
height. The spires 
tower up until they 
soar' high above 
the roofs of the 
city, while the 
church proper 
catches all the 
light of day from 
the rising to the 
setting of the sun. 
This cathedral was 
not the work of a 
few months or of 
a few men. Dur- 
ing the time it re- 
quired to complete 
this massive struc- 
ture men were 
born, grew old 
and died, leaving 
the work to their 
children, who in 

turn took it up and carried it on through their 
lives, so that when at last it stood complete it 
showed the work of several successive genera- 
tions. 

Countless beggars lounge about and stretch 
forth their hands for alms in front of this church 
to the chance passer-by. There is one familiar 
character you are sure to see, if he is still alive : 
a venerable old man, yet a beggar, who has fre- 
quented this one spot for years and years, during 
which many changes in Manila have passed over 
his head. He is never alone — a constant and 
protecting companion, his dog, lies close at hand, 
while the old man sits with his back against the 
walls, his hand outstretched, resting his elbows 
upon his knees, and at his slightest move the dog 
springs to his side. The world has long since 
forsaken this old man, but the dog still believes 
and trusts in him. Nothing can shake his faith, 
and he knows that at nightfall, when they seek 




the shelter of their humble little nipa hut, his 
master will produce the coveted bone that re- 
wards his fidelity. As you look at this pair in 
silence you instinctively feel that it must seem 
good to have some friend that clings to you even 
in adversit}' — though it be but a dog. 

The palace of the Archbishop, various religious 
convents and monasteries, the Universit)', a num- 
ber of schools and colleges, the Ayuntamiento 
Building, used for the offices of the General Gov- 
ernment and of the municipality, the Intendencia 
Building, or old Aduana, are all within the walls 
of the city. 

PACO CEMETERY.— Here are to be seen 
the resting-places of many illustrious Spanish 
Dons. The humble Filipinos and members of the 
Royal Spanish family are often interred side by 
side. The conductor of the once great Spanish 
Priestcraft rests peacefully beside those whom he 

sent to death to 
enable him to sail 
his craft of State 
and Church in 
smooth waters. It 
is about the only 
place in ^Manila 
where ever3'one is 
placed on an equal 
footing with his 
neighbor — where 
the tongue of slan- 
der ceases to wag, 
and where the 
laws ' nature are 
strictly obeyed. 
On one side of 
this small world 
of equality you 
will see an enorm- 
ous bone pile, and 
as the vesper 
chimes from the near-by convent are wafted upon 
the still air you engage in pensive thought, won- 
dering if those bones mark the last place of repose 
of some great member of the Spanish Court of 
Inquisition. It seems impossible, 3ret is true, that 
in this gruesome pile lie the bones of many im- 
mortalized in history, whose deeds of fame live 
on, and to whose memory the world continues to 
pay just and merited tribute. The structure in 
which bodies are placed at burial is circular in 
form, containing hundreds of vaults, and upon 
payment of $35 for the first five years and $5 
each year thereafter, the remains are undisturbed ; 
but upon failure to pay this annual amount, the 
bones are unceremoniously thrown on the bone- 
pile seen before you. 

STATUES.— A number of statues adorn the 
main public places, among the most notable being 
those of Anda, Magellan, Charles IV, in Plaza 



M.\NIL.\ C.\THEDR.-\L 



141 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



McKink)', Isabella II of Spain ; and at the north 
end of the Lnneta the beautiful monument to 
Legazpi and Urdaneta, brought to Manila just 
before the outbreak of the Spanish-American 
War, and erected by the Provost Marshal-Gen- 
eral of the United States Army in Manila, 1901. 
Since that time other statues found unmounted 
have been placed on appropriate pedestals. 




PACO BONE PILE 

DRIVES. — Manila has several hundred miles 
of beautiful streets and finely laid out roadways, 
through which the stranger may drive for hours 
and gain a perfect idea of the great city. For an 
evening drive no place can equal the Luneta and 
its continuation, the Malacon drive. The former 
is famous in the history of Manila and the islands 
as the execution ground of all rebels against the 
Spanish Government. Here the martyr. Dr. 
Jose Rizal, met his death with such fortitude, 
and now classed by many of the more ignorant 
natives in the category of the saints. The Luneta 
is the nightly gathering place of all classes of 
inhabitants of Manila, rich and poor, high and 



low, the military man and the civilian. Every 
evening there assemble here hundreds of gor- 
geous turnouts, filled with attractively dressed 
ladies listening to the famous Constabulary Band 
of eighty-seven pieces, which was accorded so 
warm a welcome at the St. Louis Exposition. 
On the spacious grounds surrounding the two 
bandstands several thousand people walk about, 
all Hstening to the sweet strains of music, or to 
the restless murmur of the sea as it breaks upon 
the shores at their feet. 

From this favorite promenade you can see the 
lofty summit of Angat away to the northward, a 
silent sentinel keeping watch over its fellows. 
To the each is the volcano range which trends 
down through the central peninsula of Rizal ; to 
the southeast in Cavite, is visible the conspicuous 
chain out of which rises a group of peaks known 
as the Twelve Apostles ; westward across the 
bay the Sierras de Mariveles stand guard, over 
4,000 feet high ; and to the northwest is the cone 
of Mount Arayat in Pampanga, over fifty miles 
away. When the western sun sinks into the 
water of the placid bay, burnishing both sky and 
sea with great bands of gorgeous color, the 
picture that enchants the eye, once seen, can 
never after be effaced from memory. 

CAFES AND AMUSEMENTS. — Manila 

has but few places of amusement, barring several 
old dilapidated theatres, and only one having a 
continuous variety performence. Once in a great 
while an opera from Italy, or a theatrical troupe 
from Australia, ventures to give Manila a treat. 

The numerous cafes, once so popular, that 
played so important a part in the social life of the 
Spanish regime, have all disappeared since the 
American occupation. 

To-day there is but one favorite resort, popular 
because of its cool and refreshing atmosphere 
and pleasant surroundings. It is known as 
"Clark's," the afternoon and evening place of 
rendezvous for Manila's select society, where the 
inner man is refreshed with a delicious iced drink 
on the way to or from the evening drive. The 
establishment is renowned for its manufacture 
of choice confectionery and chocolates ; and the 
word "Clark's" on a box of bon-bons in the Far 
East corresponds to "Lowney's" or "Huyler's" 
in the West. 

CIGARS. — One of the most important indus- 
tries of the city is the manufacture of Manila 
cigars, famed the world over, and of cigarettes. 
The two largest factories are the Germinel and 
the La Insular, employing over 8,000 men, 
women and children, and a visit to either of 
these factories will prove a wonderful study in 
following the different processes of curing to- 
bacco until it is manufactured into cigars or 
cigarettes and placed into boxes or packages for 
the market. By simply calling at the office of 



142 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



the factories located in the same building, the 
managers will be more than pleased to show you 
over the entire place. 

AGUINALDO. — You may see Aguinaldo — 
that is, if you are lucky and really care to see 
this erstwhile savior of his country — who, for 
various shady reasons, prefers the quietness of 
his own home. The true explanation of his 
voluntary retirement from the field of activity is 
that he fears assassination at the hands of his old 
comrades, whom he betrayed, and who have 
sworn a vendetta against his life. This unassum- 
ing little brown man gave the American forces 
many long marches through the jungles before 
he was captured by General Funston in the 
northern part of the Island of Luzon. He is 
now simply a nonentity ; his own people no 
longer trust him, and he has absolutely no voice 
in the affairs of the islands exceeding that of the 
ordinary citizen. 

The drive along the baj' to his home is the 
finest in the islands ; on one side of the road the 
placid old Bay of Manila slowly rolls to and fro : 
the other is lined with feathery branches of 
bamboo, and you pass great groves of mango 
trees laden with the most delicious of all tropical 
fruit. The mango grows upon a long, pliable 
stem, and as you pass through these forests you 
will see thousands upon thousands of the 
golden balls suspended from what appears like 
a green silken cord. Having arrived at Agui- 
naldo's residence you are sure of a cordial wel- 
come, for he is always anxious to meet and con- 
verse with strangers from abroad ; but with char- 
acteristic Filipino reticence you will find him 
rather evasive on the subjects which most nearly 
concern himself and the people for whom he once 
felt so much affection that he essayed to reign 
over them. 

Returning from the home of the late insurgent 
chieftain you come across several ruins — once 
massive and imposing cathedrals. It was from 
these buildings Aguinaldo drove the priests of 
the Roman Churdi, and he it was who caused 
those structures to be razed almost to the ground 
when he swore his vendetta against Catholicism 
as it was then conducted in the archipelago, 
though Aguinaldo himself is a devout Catholic. 
As one views these ruined temples of worship 
strange thoughts are awakened of the marriages 
here solemnized, the births and deaths recorded, 
the funeral trains that wended their way from 
the doors and the old Spanish Fathers long since 
passed away and forgotten. Now all is silent ; 
yet the very memory of these solemn things con- 
jured up by the mind makes even the most 
obtuse think that some things in this old world 
are apparently imperishable ; and the lesson 
taught by these grim old v^ls, even to the ig- 
norant and superstitious nJ^ve, is probably of 
as great value inherently as that taught by the 



old priests of long ago. Earthquakes have rent 
them, men have despoiled them of their treasures, 
but time has not yet renounced the old cathedrals. 
Their towers have fallen, their cloisters in the 
quadrangle are roofless, the bones of forgotten 
priests rest beneath the broken tile flooring; but 
the bells still hang in their rawhide lashings — to 
ring no more. The crumbling towers still serve 
as a refuge for bats, and the cross still rises 
white against the sky. With the dawn of the 
twentieth century the promising ambition of 
monkish dominion over things earthly and spir- 
itual was ended, but these slowly crumbling 
structures will not have it so. Like some de- 
throned monarch whose insistent claim to royal 
power cloaks him with a certain grandeur, they 
stand in silence, too venerable for disregard and 
too august for pity. 

LOS BANGS HOT SPRINGS.— There is a 

side trip out of Manila which the traveler should 
not miss — the Los Banos Hot Springs, from 
where it is possible to visit the most active and 




PACO CEMETERY 

picturesque volcano to be found anywhere in the 
world. Thousands have viewed Vesuvius, but 
this Taal volcano surpasses it in many respects. 
Boarding the early morning boat at Manila you 
will travel up the winding Pasig River, between 
low green banks lined on both sides with orange 
and banana groves, trees, shrubs and flowers of 
a variety not known in your own country. 
Strange trees and familiar trees and ferns every- 
where line the way. The long slender pampas 
grass and tall willowy bamboo, the blades and 
branches drooping over the water's edge ; and 
now and then nestled among the foliage a neat 
and quaint fisherman's cottage, almost hidden by 
green creepers, all make up a pleasing scene to 
the eye. Leaving the waters of the Pasig you 
pass out upon the great inland lake "Laguna de 
Bay," and across its surface to the south you see, 
towering above the Sungay range, Mount Maqui- 



143 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



lung, which, owing to the remarkable mirage 
effect, seems but a few moments' travel away, 
yet the distance in reality is forty miles. 




MACUUNG FALLS 

The great hot springs of Los Banos are but 
little known to the traveler, yet they promise to 
become among the most famous in the world 
because of medicinal properties contained in their 
waters for the cure of various diseases. At the 
close of the sixteenth century these mineral 
waters attracted the attention of Fray Pedro 
Bautista (one of the martyrs of Japan), who 
sent a brother of his order to establish a hospital 
for the natives. The brother went there but 
shortly returned to Manila and died. So the 
matter remained and nothing further was done 
for years. Later a certain Fray Diego de Santa 
Maria, an expert in medicine and the healing art, 
was sent to test the waters. He found that they 
contained properties which rendered them highly 
beneficial in curing rheumatism and certain other 
maladies. The waters of these mineral springs 
issue from a lava rock formation along the lake 
front, and during the season of high water the 
lake submerges some of the lower springs. Part 
of these springs belong to the Government, and 
the remainder are on property controlled by the 
Los Banos Lnprovement Company, who have 
rocked in and cemented the principal ones and 
erected the Isuan bottUng works, where the re- 
nowned Isuan mineral water of the Philippines 
is put up for the market. This company has 
built modern bath-houses that conform with 
new ideas and conveniences. Two new first-class 
hotels are planned to meet the fast growing re- 
quirements of this resort and supplement the 
accommodations previously ofifered by two other 



hotels. The United States Government has 
erected a large sanitorium and hospital there for 
the use of the army and civilian employees. It is 
fully equipped and is one of the finest of modern 
hospitals to be found in any tropical climate. 
The army post "Camp Eldredge" has been built 
on the hill slopes rising back of the village, and 
Los Banos is rapidly assuming a place of im- 
portance as a natural resort for the jaded business 
man of Manila. A few hours' boat ride on the 
several steamers which make daily connection 
renders it easily accessible, while the salubrious 
climate and many divertisements in and around 
the village will combine to make a pleasant so- 
journ. A railroad is now in course of construc- 
tion to connect Los Banos with Manila, which 
will reduce the trip to but one and one-half hours 
for those to whom time is more important. 

The situation of these springs is simply ideal, 
being nestled at the base of Mount Mavuilung, 
one of the highest mountains on the Island of 
Luzon. The atmosphere is bracing, and physi- 
cians consider that the peculiar odor arising from 
the springs is an active and healthful tonic. 
There is scarcely a disease which humanity is 
heir to that cannot be remedied, or will not yield 
to treatment at this resort. The springs and the 
village are situated on what has been an active 
volcano during the remote ages, and even now, 
many feet below the surface, the fires are still 
active, and the springs themselves emanate from 
streams heated to an intensity by the fires in the 
subterranean chasms below. 

The first point of interest near Los Banos are 
the Maculing Falls, only twenty minutes' walk 
from the centre of the town. The trail leading 
there skirts the banks of a stream of crystal water 
coursing a rocky bed in which are great masses 




VOLCANO TAAL 



of boulders that rise in places to the height of 
surrounding trees. The cafion's sides are sheer 
bluffs on which trees and vines cluster. 



I4S 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



ALLIGATOR LAKE.— A half-hour's boat 
ride from Los Banos is a most peculiar body of 
water, separate from Laguna de Bay and on 
about the same level, while their banks are near 
together. It is the crater of an extinct volcano 
sunk down to the level of the earth. It occupies 
only a few acres, yet its bottom has never been 
struck, and many strange stories are told of fruit- 
ness efforts during past years to sound it. Its 
waters abound in fish, but as there is no visible 
outlet it must be fed by subterranean springs. 
Alligators are often seen lazily floating about the 
edge, and from them the lake has derived its 
name. This is only one of the many picturesque 
and varying scenes near Los Banos that well 
repay a visit. 

TAAL. — From Los Banos you can take a 
comfortable carriage drawn by two sturdy native 
ponies, and make the interesting trip of ten miles 
through one of the most picturesque portions of 



ing flames and enormous volumes of smoke 
which darken the moonlit heavens. It is a sight 
seldom beheld and one never to be forgotten. 
The volcano island is like an inverted cone, for 
during the violent eruptions some years ago, 
when many people were killed and much property 
destroyed, the entire top of the island was thrown 
off, and to-day the bottom and interior sides re- 
semble a huge kettle, the slopes of which extend 
many hundreds of feet downward to the level of 
the outer lake surface. Within this kettle-shaped 
crater there is another, a mile or more in di- 
ameter, constantly in activity ; and around it are 
many smaller ones, all in eruption. These boil- 
ing lakes contain metallic salts in solution, lend- 
ing to the inner crater a most delicate and beauti- 
ful coloring of red and yellow. 

Every few moments terrific explosions take 
place, sending voluminous columns of water, 
huge rocks and mud hundreds of feet into the 
air, revealing to the eyes of the beholder a huge, 




CR.^TER AT T.^AL VOLCANO 



the Island of Luzon. The route is flanked on 
both sides by vast sugar cane plantations. You 
-travel over an excellent road built and maintained 
by the Government, and finally arrive at the 
Lake of Bombon, in the centre of which lies the 
remarkable island volcano of Taal. The island 
itself is about three miles in width and from 
eleven to twelve miles in circumference. You 
will first arrive at the village of Ambalong at 
about 5 o'clock in the evening, and procuring a 
native boat proceed from the mainland proper 
out across the lake to the island ; and as the 
shadows of night fall upon you, the heavens be- 
come a red glow, and a continuation of rumbling 
sounds, with frequent violent intermittent ex- 
plosions, make it appear most dangerous to spend 
the night in the vicinity of the volcano. But the 
crater being an open one, and the air thus afford- 
ing escape to the noxious gases, renders life 
perfectly safe, though the surroundings are noisy. 
After reaching the island it is but a few moments' 
walk to the edge of the crater, and you can look 
down into the truly terrible abyss with its spout- 



black, yawning orifice beneath. These eruptions 
change the turbulent waters of the lake into the 
most gorgeous colors imaginable. It is impos- 
sible to describe the real beauties, or the awful 
possibilities for destruction in time of active 
eruption of this crater, whose walls and interior 
present a variety of coloring from white and 
black basalts to the thousand and one mineral 
shades and formations. 

You could lie on the edge of the crater half the 
night watching the flowing streams of ruby- 
colored lava oozing out of and tearing away the 
sides of the mountain, as it struggles like some 
living thing to get back into the crater again. 
Imagine, if you will, enormous volumes of 
smoke, stifling gases, whitish vapor, following 
upon explosions that send great stones whirling 
into the air as if they were pebbles, and the 
cinders falling about you like dry black snow. 
It would seem an impertinence to even attempt 
to give a mind's picture of a scene so unearthly 
and terrible. 

Stolid, indeed, is he who can confront this 



146 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



awful scene and view its almost supernatural 
splendor of color and form without quaking knee 
or tremulous breath. An inferno, a hell in reality, 
swathed in various hues — pink, red, brown, laven- 
der, gray, blue and black leaping celestial fires ; a 
whole under world, just emptied of primeval 
floods of fire and waiting for a new creative 
world, eluding all sense of perspective or dimen- 
sion, overlapping the confines of apprehension ; a 
terrible thing, unflinchingly real yet spectral as 
a dream. And still you loiter upon the verge, 
powerless to shake loose from the strange charm, 



tirelessly intent upon watching the rapid trans- 
formations until the silvery moon has climbed 
high into the heavens. 

Returning from the volcano to the small village 
on the lake shore you remain until morning, then 
drive across country to the town of Calamba, 
twelve miles, where you will board the boat again 
for Manila and arrive at noon ; thus in a period 
of thirty-four hours you will have seen a most 
enchanting country and thoroughly enjoyed your- 
self. Boarding your steamer once again, you 
will return to Hongkong. 



Philippine Islands 



ONE enthusiastic writer calls the Philip- 
pines a magnificent rosary of glowing 
islands that nature has hung above the 
heaving bosom of the warm Pacific. The com- 
bination of mountain and plain, lake and stream, 
everywhere rich with glossy leafage, clustered 
growths of bamboo and palm, fields of yellow 
cane, groves of banana, great reaches of growing 
rice and groves of verdure coffee resulting from 
an abundant rainfall, a rich soil, an even climate 
and a warm affluence of ecjuatorial waters tend to 
make a picture richer by far than nature ever 
painted in the temperate zone. 

The archipelago forms the most northern 
group of islands in the Malayan or Eastern Ar- 
chipelago. It lies wholly within the tropics, 
while the land surface extends between latitude 
21° lo' and 4° 40' N., 1,150 statute miles; the 
east and west limits are longitude 116° 40' and 
126° 34' E., making about 650 miles. The most 
northern land in the Philippines is Y'ami Island, 
of the Batanes group ; the most southern is Balut 
Island, of the Sarangani Islands, south of Min- 
danao ; the most western is Balabac Island, north 
of Borneo ; and the most eastern is Sanco Point, 
on the east coast of Mindanao. The archipelago 
is bounded on the north and west by the China 
Sea, on the east b}' the Pacific Ocean, and on the 
south by the Sea of Celebes and the costal waters 
of Borneo. It is 93 miles distant from foreign 
territory' on the north (Formosa) ; 31 miles from 
Balambangan, an island near Borneo, on the 
south; 510 miles from the Pelew group (Ger- 
man) on the east, and 515 miles from Cochin- 
China (French) on the west. 

The archipelago numbers about 1,600 islands, 
most of them very small, and having altogether 
about 11,500 miles of coast line. Two of them, 
Mindanao and Luzon, are, however, classed 
among the larger islands of the world, and, to- 
gether with the islands of Samar, Panay, Negros, 
Palawan (Pampangua), j\Iindoro, Leyte, Cebu, 
Masbate and Bohol are of primary geographical 
importance. The others are mainly dependent 
islands or inlets along the coast of the large 
islands or subordinate archipelago like the Sulu 



Islands. The area of the total land surface is 
computed at 127,853 square miles, or a little 
larger than the New England States, New York 
and New Jersey together. Mindanao (45,559 
square miles) and Luzon (43,075 square miles) 
comprise about seven-tenths of the total land sur- 
face, the area of the other leading islands being : 
Samar, 5,198 square miles ; Negros, 4,839 ; Panay, 
4,752; Palawan, 4,368; Mindoro, 4,050; Leyte, 
3,872: Cebu, 1,668; Bohol, 1,400 and Masbate, 
1,230. The total water surface within the limits 
occupied by the archipelago is 707,115 square 
miles. 

TOPOGRAPHY.— This immense labyrinth 
of islands forms that part of a vast submarine 
plateau which has emerged above the ocean. 
The surrounding waters are shallow, for the most 
part not over 200 feet in depth, showing that the 
wide plateau on which the islands stand nearly 
approaches the surface. But strewn here and 
there over the sea floor are troughs and hollows 
and wide depressions, particularly to the west of 
Luzon and Alindanao, where greater depths are 
found. There is nothing approaching oceanic 
depth until the eastern edge of the submarine 
plateau descends to the Pacific depths from 100 
to 300 miles east of the archipelago. In the south 
three lines of islands stretch like isthmuses be- 
tween the main archipelago and the southern 
lands. The mountain ranges of the archipelago 
extend from south to north, and form a large 
part of its relief. 

Most of the mountains are forest clothed. In 
the higher elevations are found large pine trees, 
with open spaces between carpeted with pine 
needles ; but lower down huge trees tower to an 
enormous height. These mighty forest monarchs 
are draped and festooned with fantastic creepers, 
and beautified with graceful ferns and exquisite 
orchids. Vegetation runs riot. Unlike Hawaii, 
the Philippines have few, if any, barren lava 
beds, and they are entirely free from sandy 
deserts. The flora is so rich that it makes a 
paradise for the florist, and for the botanist it is 
wonderland. 



147 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



Rivers and mountain streams are numerous, 
while the water of the higher regions is perfectly 
pure and clear as crystal, except immediately fol- 
lowing a heavy rain. These streams during the 
rainy season, like the great rivers, are subject to 
a great and sudden rise and fall, and from a 
quiet bubbling brook may change in a few 
minutes to a raging torrent ; yet where the moun- 
tains are heavily timbered the rise and fall are 
more gradual and do not go to extremes. 

CLIMATE. — The average statement concern- 
ing the climate and health conditions of the Phil- 
ippines is generally untrue, as the islands extend 
from a point 325 miles north of the equator to 
almost 1,500 miles from that parallel. The south- 
ern extremity of the archipelago is in nearly the 
same latitude as Singapore, while the northern 
part is as far from the equator as the southern 
end of Lower California. Lying wholly within 
the torrid zone, it is only the Islands of Jolo and 
Mindanao that have an equatorial climate, while 
Luzon, reaching almost to the Tropic of Cancer, 
has a tropical climate. The climate of the Phil- 
ippines as a whole is tropical. But the records of 
fifty years conclusively prove that no tropical 
islands in the world enjoy a better climate than 
do the Philippines. 

From the middle of November until the middle 
of March the temperature of Manila is dehght- 
ful ; from that time until the latter part of June 
it is hot during the middle of the day, but con- 
siderably less so than- many of the Southern States 
of America, and cool as compared with the Tesan 
border, along the Rio Grande, at the same time 
of the year. 

From July to November, during the rainy 
season, the temperature is very little higher than 
during the winter months, due to frequent rains 
and clouded condition of the sky. The tempera- 
ture of Manila rarely rises above 98 in the shade, 
and does not fall below 60. 

In the northern part of Luzon in the mountains 
it is hard to conceive of a region affording a more 
delightful climate; it is always cool, never hot. 
The highest temperature recorded in this section 
during August, September and October was 76.8° 
— the lowest during the cooler months 45°. 

A decidedly redeeming feature of the cHmate in 
the Philippines is that the nights are delightfully 
cool, caused by the pleasant breeze that invariably 
springs up shortly after the sun has set in the 
west. For a tropical country the climate and 
health conditions are good, as evidenced by the 
low mortality among the Caucasians living in the 
islands. 

AGRICULTURE.— With the sandy, sedi- 
mentary alluvial soils prevalent throughout the 
entire archipelago no section of the earth is as 
rich in the natural possibilities for agricultural 
pursuits. The islands produce many, if not all, 



of the necessary staples of the world required for 
every-day consumption, such as rice, coffee, 
sugar, hemp, tobacco, cocoa, nutmeg, rubber, pea- 
nuts, cinnamon and indigo. 

The importance of the sugar industry has long 
been recognized, the soil producing phenomenal 
crops, and produces more substance than any 
cane growing in other regions. In 1900 the 
islands produced all the sugar required for do- 
mestic consumption, and a surplus for export 
amounting to over 60,000 long tons. 

Coffee has been cultivated in the islands for 
more than a century. It was first planted in the 
Province of Batangas, and the same sad story of 
neglect that has been told as to other products of 
the islands is repeated in the history of coffee 
culture. For several years but little attention 
has been paid to coffee growing, notwithstanding 
the fact that the neighboring island of Java 
has become wealthy through the production of 
coffee and set the standard of excellence for the 
world. In 1891 an insect made its appearance in 
the coffee plantations, destroying the trees, and 
practically all the big coffee plantations have now 
been abandoned. When the industry was 
flourishing over $4,000,0000 worth was exported 
in a single year. 

There is no question but that with scientific at- 
tention directed to the matter, means would be 
found to overcome the ravages of this insect and 
enable trees to grow and render tribute to the 
planters. 

Cocoa in the Philippines is of such excellent 
quality as to be anxiously sought after, even at 
an advance of 50 per cent, over all others. The 
bean grows and thrives remarkably at almost 
every part of the islands, producing wonderful 
crops. The importance of cocoa growing in the 
Philippines cannot be over-estimated, since recent 
statistics place the world's demand for cocoa at 
200,000,000 pounds, valued at more than $30,- 
000,000 gold. 

Another important industry is the growing of 
hemp — a business that fears no rival, for no other 
country has ever succeeded in producing the same 
quantity and quality of this valuable fiber. The 
demand for Manila hemp is constantly on the in- 
crease. 

The Philippines to-day offer more genuine in- 
ducements for the investment of capital than any 
other section of the globe. The Philippine Gov- 
ernment has so arranged the land laws as to 
enable anyone wishing to engage in the pursuit 
of agriculture to procure as high as 2,000 acres 
of land. The Government has also entered very 
extensively into the developing of agriculture, 
such as the introduction of new grasses, seeds, 
fruits, etc., at the same time establishing agri- 
cultural schools and farms all over the islands, 
stocked with thoroughbred cattle, horses, sheep, 
hogs, donkeys, beef bulls and breeding stal- 
lions. 



148 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



TRANSPORTATION AND COMMERCE. 

— A glance at the geographical location of the 
Philippine Archipelago will demonstrate that it 
is in a position to dominate the trade of the 
Orient. It lies about midway between Japan on 
the north and the island continent of Australia 
on the south, while to the west are the countless 
millions of inhabitants of China, Siam and the 
British East Indies, as well as of other islands of 
the Eastern Archipelago. The Philippines pro- 
duce many things that these adjacent countries 
need, and these, on the other hand, produce many 
articles used and consumed in the Philippines. 
The conditions are ideal for active maritime com- 
merce. The islands occupy a favorable location, 
not with reference to any one part of a particular 
country of the Orient, but to all parts. In fact, 
they are the pickets of the Pacific, standing guard 
at the entrance to trade with China, Korea, 
French Indo-China, Japan and the Malay Penin- 
sula. . 

Manila is, therefore, a centre for the trade of 
854,464,000 people, whose annual commerce 
amounts to $2,377,784,000. Without a doubt a 
great portion of this amount passes through the 
port of Manila, which in time will become a dis- 
tributing point for American goods, which have 
an enviable reputation all over Asia. The op- 
portunity is at hand, accompanied with most ideal 
conditions, for capturing the greater share of 
Asiatic trade, and it only remains for our mer- 
chants and manufacturers to grasp the situation. 

Once completed, the Manila harbor will rank 
with the best in the world, being far superior to 
any port in Asia, owing to the fact that it will be 
the only one in the entire Orient where ships 
can go alongside of spacious docks and unload 
their cargo with ease. Commerce always flows 



along the lines of least resistance, and several 
important steamship companies have already sig- 
nified their intention of making Manila a port 
of call, as well as a terminal. 

More than half the people of the earth live in 
the countries that may be easily reached from the 
Philippines. The population and commerce of 
the countries commercially adjacent to Manila 
are shown in the following table : 



Countries 



British East Indies. 
British Australia. . , 

China 

Japan 

Strait Settlement. . . 
Dutch East Indies. . 

Russia. Asiatic 

Philippine Islands . . 
Hawaiian Islands. . . 

Mauritius 

Persia 

Ceylon 

Hongkong 

Siam 

Korea 

French East Indies. 

Total . 



Population 



287,123 

4.794 

402,680 

42,708 

512 

34,090 

22,697 

8, SCO 

109 

372 

9,000 

3.449 

300 

5,000 

10,529 

22,679 



854,464,000 



,000 
,000 

000 
,000 

000 
,000 

000 
,000 
,000 

000 

000 
,000 

000 
.000 
,000 
,000 



Commerce 



SS6 

336 

217, 

207, 

146, 

SI1 

41. 

38, 

30, 

40, 

35. 

30. 

44 



769,000 
587,000 
189.000 
650,000 
777,000 
539,000 
035,000 
370,000 
200,000 
662,000 
530,000 
365,000 
000,000 
664,000 
570,000 
879,000 



$2,377,784,000 



The commerce of Manila is increasing by leaps 
and bounds, and even now while the islands are 
suffering from a reaction of war, and six years' 
idleness of the productive resources, the revenue 
is greater than was that of the United States at 
the same age. 

Official returns for the fiscal year 1906 show 
an excess of exports over imports of $6,117,868, 
but, compared with the previous year, present 
reduced values in both — imports being less by 
$5,077,084, while exports show a decline of 
$435,481. The following comparative table gives 
the islands' foreign trade by countries : 



United States 

United Kingdom 

Germany 

France 

Spain 

Italy 

China 

Hongkong 

Japan 

British East Indies 

French East Indies 

Australasia 

Other countries 

Total 



Imports. 



Ss. 761,498 

4,848.393 

1,498,898 

832,308 

1,931.359 
152,802 
2,942,307 
207,703 
1,018,437 
2,007,514 
5,968,614 
1,365,662 
2.340,855 



830,876,350 



1906 



4.333.893 

5,224,020 
1,360,961 

833,858 

1,787,310 

197.86s 

2,654,214 

304,201 

657,386 

1,515,042 

3.854.217 

1,523.668 

1,552,541 



Exports. 



815,668,026 

8,291,038 

129,610 

1.491.753 

1,434.126 

59,316 

1,008,252 

2,359.958 

548,607 

624,312 

11.305 

445.741 

280,571 



$25,799,266 



S32.352.61s 



1006 



$11,579,411 

7,499.627 

459.426 

2.703.328 

1,803,055 

71,260 

1,705,980 

3.658,781 

532,24s 

663,487 

6,335 

462,062 

772,137 



$31,917,134 



EDUCATION.— The educational department 
is under the direction of a General Superintendent 
and Deputy Superintendent. The archipelago is 
divided into seventeen educational divisions, each 
of which have a Superintendent and Deputy 
Superintendent, and a superior school board and 
local board have advisory functions. The teach- 



ing staff comprises 1,000 primary and 200 higher 
teachers of English, and about 4,000 native 
teachers. English is taught in 1,250 schools, with 
200,000 enrolled pupils. Night schools for adults 
have 25,000 pupils-. And the general desire 
among the people for learning has so overtaxed 
the Educational Department that it has been 



149 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



found necessary to enlarge the facilities for learn- 
ing in all directions. The Central Government 
pays the American functionaries and teachers ; 
the municipalities pay the Filipino teachers and 
uphold local school buildings. The annual cost 
of American teachers, etc., is about $1,200,000; 
of native teachers about $450,000. A school for 
training teachers has been opened, and industrial 
and trade schools of all kinds have been estab- 
lished, also agricultural farms and schools at 
various places over the islands. 

The Philippine Government has now 141 native 
students in the different colleges of the United 
States, and each year about forty students are 
sent to America for education at the expense 
of the Government. This method of familiari- 
zing the people with our ways of education and 
forms of government has proven most satisfac- 
tory. 

MINERALS. — The mineral resources of the 
islands have as yet not been thoroughly pros- 
pected, but there are indications of many different 
species. Coal is found to greater or less extent 



through all the islands, and offers splendid oppor- 
tunities for investment which may well invite 
thorough investigation. Gold is found in many 
localities in the archipelago in regions extending 
from Northern Luzon to Central Mindanao. In 
most cases the gold is placer and found in exist- 
ing water courses or in stream deposits now de- 
serted by the current. These deposits are now 
being worked with large dredges and with much 
success. Copper, silver, lead, iron and some 
precious stones have been found in the islands. 
Other minerals found are sulphur, marble and 
kaolin. Petroleum has been discovered in several 
of the islands. 

CENSUS. — A census of the Philippines was 
taken by the United States Government, under 
the auspices of the Census Bureau, in 1903, and 
the population was estimated as 8,000,000, of 
which about 7,000,000 were civilized, the re- 
mainder savages. There are in the neighborhood 
of 25,000 Europeans in the islands and about 
100,000 Chinese, in whose hands rest the prin- 
cipal smaller industries. 



aigon 



SAIGON, the beautiful city and capital of the 
French possessions in Cochin-China, is in 
actual reality the gay "Paris" of the East. 
It is situated on the left bank of the Saigon River, 
some forty miles from the China Sea. The ex- 
cellent depth of water along the river offers 
splendid facilities for handling the immense 
quantities of rice exported each year from this 
port. During 1906 there were over 1,000,000 
tons shipped from this port alone. When the 
rice season is in full swing it is not uncommon 
to see as high as fifty ships moored along the 
docks, lining both sides of the river for two miles 
from the centre of the city; and to watch the 
natives, or Chinese, load this great necessity of 
life is of special interest. 

So many travelers who tour the world aim- 
lessly omit a visit to this picturesque city, while 
no greater mistake is ever made. To those in- 
terested in colonization in the East, or who like 
to view beautiful architecture, to wander amidst 
tropical jungles and the endless botanical gar- 
dens where they will be able to commune with 
nature in every phase, to study the animals, 
reptiles, plants and birds of every known species, 
no place offers a greater opportunity than Saigon. 

The city of Saigon is so easily reached, and in 
just as much comfort as can be found anywhere 
on the globe. It lies distant by steam forty-eight 
hours from Hongkong, fifty hours from Singa- 
pore and seventy-two hours from Bangkok, Siam. 
To those traveling westward, connections can be 
made every ten days by the large and com- 
fortable steamers of the Messageries Maritime 



Steamship Co., which ply between Marseilles, 
France, and Yokohama, Japan. Should you be 
traveling eastward from Singapore you can go 
direct to Saigon by the same steamers ; or should 
you desire to first visit Bankok, Siam, there are 
weekly connections by fine steamers to Saigon, 
whence you can rejoin your ship for Hongkong 
or points farther north. 

Hotel accommodation is excellent. You will 
find attentive hotel representatives at the landings 
to assist you in every way regarding custom ex- 
amination of baggage, which is done quickly and 
in the usual courteous rhanner peculiar to the 
French. 

Jinrikishas are a dream in the art of transpor- 
tation, and their local name is "Pousse-pousse." 
They are the most comfortable means of convey- 
ance to be found in the world to-day. The wheels 
are fitted with broad pneumatic tires, and a low 
cushioned seat has a back so constructed as to fit 
perfectly the curvature of your body, with easy 
arm- and foot-rests. 

Saigon has much of interest. The new arrival 
will be astonished beyond expression at the mag- 
nificent buildings, their exquisite and imposing 
architecture, the general appearance of the city, 
with its broad, straight streets, its many high- 
class cafes with first-class music, where everyone 
spends the evenings in true Parisian style. A 
miniature Paris, reared within a few years in 
this strange land. It is a study in contrasts as 
you sit in front of the principal cafes, surrounded 
by French-speaking people, as automobiles and 
carriages arrive and depart, leaving their occu- 



150 



5/* 



s,^' 



6tt 



■^ 



_n 



DE 



From PARIS to EGYPT apd vice versa 



Single tickets available 45 days 



I" class rail 

and steamer 

Fr. 426.60 



i" class rail 

2°' class steamer 

Fr. 330.10 



2"'' class rail 

and steamer 

Fr.299.10 



Return tickets available i -jo days 



i" class rail and steamer 
Fr. 781 165 



2"^ class rail and steamer 
Fr. 578.30 



From PARIS to CONSTANTINOPLE and vice versa 

Single Tickets available 45 days 

Constantinople via Piraeus : i" class throughout . Fr. 275 — 

» » 2"' 'I steamer and I" cl. rail » 212 — 

a » 2'' » throughout ...» 200 — 



Return Tickets available 120 days 

Constantinople via Piraeus : i" class throughout . . 
» » : 2"'' » throughout . 



Fr. 546- 
1. 352- 



pRENCH ¥. 



COMPA>i 

Frottt r 

EGYPT, SYRIA, cvcri' 
NAPLES, GREECE, T»- 
GREECE, TURKEY, BJi 
CEYLON, INDIA, AUsJ 
HEBRIDES, every 3 

CEYLON, INDIA, IND€^ 

lAPAN, every 14 d^ 

EAST-AFRICA, MAD.^ 

ovf the 10«^ & 25!*'' e 

from 

SPAIN, PORTUGAL, t 

ever 



From LONDON to EGYPT and vice versa 



Single tickets available for j 20 days 
i" class throughout 2"'' class throughout 



Fr. 451.50 



Fr. 339.— 



Return tickets available one year 



i" class throughout 

Fr. 799.05 



class throu} 
Fr. 598.8; 



Circular Tours on the Mediterranean 



From and to ANY POINT IN FRANCE OR EUROPE 



The passage rates of the Messa^eries Maritimes Com- 
pany's Mediterranean service are incorporated in the 
French and International c Tarits communs G. V. 205 »; 
all stations and railway offices in France and on the 
Continent therefore, authorised to issue combination 
coupons for circular tickets at the rate of these tariffs 
are able to establish, according to passenger's wish, 
tickets over all the principal European railways and by 
the Messagerits Maritimes Company's Mediterranean Lines. 
The Messagenes Maritimes Company's call the particular 
attention of tourists to the advantages ot these combi- 
nations. 

Tlie above fares include food, with table wine, and 
medical attendance, for the portion accomplished by the 
steamers of the Messageries Maritimes Company. 

Specimens circular tours with combinable coupons. 

1" Paris, Lyons, Geneva, Lausanne, Turin, Milan, 
Genoa, Monaco, Nice, Toulon, Marseilles, Alexandria, 
Marseilles, Paris. 

I" class Fr. 776 — 2" class Fr. 581.50 



2° Paris, Modane, Milan, Genoa, Pisa, I 
Rome, Naples, Piraeus, Smyrna, Constantino 
toum, Constantinople, Piraeus, Marseille, Lyon 



2'"' class Frl 5? 



I" class Fr. 844.50 



5" Marseilles, Valence, Gibraltar, Tangiers, i 
Nemours, Oran. Algiers, Kroubs, Tunis, 
Alexandria, Jaffa, Beyrout, Rhodes, Constai 
Sofia, Constantinople, Smyrna, Piraeus, Marse- 

I" class Fr. 1119.15* 2"' class FrJ 79' 



4" Marseilles, Alexandria, Port-Said, Jaffa 
Beyrouth Rhodes, Smyrna, Constantinople, Cc 
Vienna, Berlin, Paris, Marseilles. 



I" class Fr. 924.- 



2°' class Fr. 6( 



N. B. The fares quoted above include 
steamer portion of the journey. 



foot 



Validity 120 days, without free allowance of registered baggage on the rail jour ne) 

For particulars, apply to Messrs. RAYMOND & WHITCOMB C" 
25, Union Square. NEW-YORK. 



Compagnie des Messageries Maritimes 



-•-;c<TJtSN»« 



PAOUEBOTS-POSTE FRANQAIS 




Cr^oi par SfhoJ^ f'T' JS^Jtun Mr«/en -JiofJunau, . fa 



llESjVf 



M 



/>> 



FRANCE 






Iail Steamers. 

1 

>Y'S SERVICES 

c 

Marseilles t© 

V thursday. 

^RKEY, SYRIA, every other tbarsday. 
tiACK SEA, every Saturday. 
TRALIA, NEW CALEDONIA, NEW 
\2& days, Wednesday. 
P-CHINA, SIAM, TONClWN, CHINA, 
^ays, Sunday. 

lGASCAR, REUNION, MAURITIUS, 
of every month. 

BORDEAUX to 

SENEGAL, BRAZIL, RIVER PLATE, 

y 14 days, friday. 



ghout 




'iorence, 
pie, "Ba- 
is. Paris. 

!3.60 



Mellila ; 
Naples, 
itinople, 
illes. 

7.60* 



. Caifia, 
instanza, 

30.- 

1 for tlie 



From LONDONto BOMBAY 
and vice versa 

Single Tickets available 
12 months 

1" d. Rail and steamer £56.16.0 
a'^cl. » » 41.12.0 

Return Tickets available 
24 months 

I" cl. Rail and steamer ^^85. 4.0 
2'"' cl. •' » )> 65. 8.0 



From LONDON te tl?e 
FAR EAST a^d vice versa 

Single Tickets available 
12 months 

I" cl. Rail and steamer £71. 4.0 
2°' cl. » » 48. 4.0 

Return Tickets available 
24 months 

I" cl. Rail and steamer£l06.l6.0 
2"''d; » » 72. 6.0 



RODND THE WORLD TODRS 

The Messageries Maritimes Company has placed at 
the disposal of the public various tours round the 
World, combined with the Canadian Pacific Railway 
Company, the Southern Pacific Company, the Eastern 
and Australian, the American Line, and the Australian 
Line, the Compagnie Generale Transatlantique, and the 
great American Railways, 



ROUTE N° ^ 

VIA CHINA, JAPAN AND CANADA 
via VANCODVER 

By Rail from London or Paris 10 Marseilles 



From Marseilles to Hong-Eong by steamers of 
the Messsgeries Maritimes Company, via the Suez Canal. 
Djibouti or Aden, Colombo, Singapore, Saigon. 

From Hong-Kong to Sanghai, Kobe (Hiogo) and 

Yokohama, by steamers of the Messagcries Maritimes 
Company, or by those of the Caimdian-Pacific Company. 
at the choice of passenger. 

, From Yokohama to VauCOUVer, by steamers of 
the Canadian Pacific Company, and from there by the 
different routes offered by the CanaiUan Pacific Railway 
Company to Quebec, Montreal, Halifax, Saint-john 
(N. B.) or New-York. 

From New-York to Liverpool or Southampton, 

by steamers of either the Cunard Line, IVIiite Star Line, 
American Line or Kord-deutscher Lloyd, thence rail to 
London, and Paris, or vice-versa. 

FARE : £ 137 



ROUTE NO 6 

VIA ADSTRALIA, TORRES STRAITS, JAPAN 
AND SAN-FRANCISCO 

By rail from London or Paris to Marseilles 



From Marseilles to Sydney by Masageries Mari- 
times Company's steamers, via Suez Canal, Djibouti or 
Aden, Bombay, Colombo, Fremantle, and Melbourne. 

From Sydney to Hong-Kong by steamers of the 
Eastern and Anstralian Steamship Company, via Torres 
Straits. 

From Hong-Kong to San-Francisco by steamers 

of the Pacific Mail Occidental and Oriental, or the Tokio 
Kysen Kaisija Company. 

From San-Francisco to New- York by the various 

routes offered by the Southern Pacific Company via Chi- 
cago and Ogden, or New Orleans (Sunset Route). 

From New-York to Liverpool or Southampton 

by steamers of either the Cunard Line, White Star Line, 
American Line or Norddeutscher Lloyd, or from New- 
York to Hdvre, by steamers of the Compagnie Gene- 
rale Transatlantique, thence by rail to London, or 
vice-versa. 

FARE : £ 170 



SPECIAL TRIPS TROUGH CENTRAL AFRICA 

From LONDON to tl?e VICTORIA NYANZA via MOMBASA 



Single tickets available i 2 months 

cl. Rail and steamer £ 5^6.12.0 

'cl. - ....,.„ 37.16.0 



Return tickets available .14 months 
I" cl. Rail and steamer £ S4.lS. 



d. 



1) 56.10. O 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



pants at your veranda, until you may easily 
imagine yourself in Paris along the Boulevard de 
Italian; but casting your eye toward the street, 
the sight changes. Hundreds of half-clad natives 
move to and fro, and you are reminded that you 
are only in a possession of France, where a gay 
corner of Paris has been transplanted. 

Among the most remarkable and beautiful 
buildings in Saigon is the Government House, a 
handsome structure on which several millions of 
francs were spent. It is surrounded by elegant 
grounds, between the Jardin de la Ville and Rue 
SlacMahon, the main entrance fronting the west- 
ern termination of Boulevard Nordom, the finest 
avenue in the city. The Revenue Bureau stands 
at the south, facing Government House, and the 
College Chasseloup Laubat on the north side. 

The post- and telegraph offices, both magnifi- 
cent buildings of fine proportions, face a wide 
space at the north of Rue Catinat, in the centre 
of which stands the towering cathedral. A 
bronze statue of Pigneau de Behaine, Bishop of 
Adran, one of the first missionaries to explore 
Cochin-China, fronts its entrance. 

The Municipal Theatre, one of the finest out- 
side of Europe, is a building of more than ordi- 
nary note, as its style of architecture, magnificent 
decorations, perfect arrangements of stage, and 
seating capacity would hardly be looked for in 
this country, so far away from the large centres 
of the earth. It was built by the municipality at 
a cost of over $500,000 gold ; and for six months 
during the cooler season a performance is given 
four times weekly, alternating with one of light 
vaudeville and one of opera. Excellent opera 
troupes brought from France are paid 200,000 
francs for the season, to play the leading operas, 
as Faust, Carmen, Aida, Diana, Camille, etc., 
with perfect stage settings. Since the opening 
of the theatre seven years ago it has netted a 
profit ranging from 10,000 to as high as 100,000 
francs for a single season of six months. 



There is no more delightful and interesting 
pastime for the traveler than to get up early in 
the morning and make a trip through the Zo- 
ological Gardens on the banks of the river, just 
five minutes by pousse-pousse from your hotel. 
Here are picturesque little lakes on whose bosoms 
float water fowl of all imaginable species ; while 
at other places throughout the gardens are 
countless varieties of reptiles, crocodiles, leopards,; 
lions, deer, elephants, etc. 

In keeping with this charming city its drives 
are par excellence, shaded by beautiful trees, and 
covering great distances in and about the city 
limits. Most popular with the European resi- 
dents is the "Tour dTnspection," extending for 
a distance of ten miles around the city and em- 
bracing some of the best scenery. 

From Saigon a trip of seventy-five miles di- 
rectly west into the lake districts can be covered 
in one day by automobile, with three hours' rest 
at the military post before starting on the return 
journey. The road is very fine, and the trip 
should appeal to the traveler as afi^ording an op- 
portunity to view the outlying country, the green 
rice-fields, tropical jungles, farm cottages and the 
endless chain of quaint countryfolk en route to 
and from the market, all passing in review, while 
you comfortably enjoy the ride in a twentieth- 
century motor car. 

The famous temple of Angkor, situated in that 
once powerful Kingdom of Cambodia, may be 
reached from Saigon by a steamer of the Mes- 
sageries Fluviales, leaving port every Tuesday 
morning at 10 a. m. These ruins are wonderful 
for their remarkable architectural beauty, and as 
marking the existence of that powerful state of 
long ages ago, and its evident very high standard 
of civilization at that period. From Chinese 
notices it appears that the Kingdom of Cambodia 
flourished shortly after the beginning of the 
Christian era. 



French Indo-China 



THIS possession of France, in the south of 
Asia, incorporates Tonking, Annam and 
Cambodia, under the above designation, 
and comprises a united area of about 363,000 
square miles. They are under the authority of 
a Governor-General and are administered by a 
Resident Superior, except Cochin-China, which 
has a Lieutenant-Governor. The military forces 
in Indo-China consist of 10,000 European 
troops and 14,975 native soldiers under French 
officers and non-commissioned officers, totaling 
26,562 men. The general budget is supported 
by receipts from customs, government monopo- 
lies, indirect contributions, posts, telegraphs and 
railways in all the countries of the union, which 
sources alsp provide for military and judicial 



services, public works and other matters relating 
to the entire union. For 1904 the local revenue 
was estimated at 32,295,000 piasters (each 
equivalent to 50 cents U. S. gold), and the ex- 
penditure balanced at the same figure. Expendi- 
tures of French (budget of 1904), 33,252,542 
francs, of which 15,947,745 francs was for the 
military force and 3,091,000 francs for military 
works. 

The railways of Indo-China, constructed or 
authorized, had in 1906 a total length of about 
15,000 miles, and several of them are now in 
active operation. These railways all belong to 
the Government, and the most important, now 
nearly finished, is the line extending north to 
connect with the great trunk line in South China 



iSi 



,v^^^^^^% 



Jj^*^ DE FRANCE 






From PARIS to EGYPT and vice versa 

Single tickets available 45 days 



ana 
Fr. 426.60 



1" class rail 

"' class steamer 

Fr. 330.10 



2"'' class rail 
and steamer 
Fr.299.JO 



Return tickets available s jo days 

' class rail and steamer 2"^ class r.iil aiul si 

Fr. 781.'65 Fr. 578.30 



from PARIS to CONSTANTINOPLE and vice versa 

Single Tickets available 4S days 

Constantinople via Piraeus : i" class throughout . 

2"' " Steamer and i"cl.r 
» B 2°'' n throughout 

Return Tickets available 120 days 

Constantinople via Piraeus': 1" class tlirougliotn . . Fr. 546— 
o » : 2"^ " throughout. . <> 352— 



Fr. 275- 
u 212— 

.> 200— 



f RENCH Mail Steamers. 

COMPANY'S SERVICES 

From MARSEILLES to 

EGYPT, SYRIA, every thursday. 

NAPLES, GREECE, TURKEY, SYRIA, every other tbursday. 
GREECE, TURKEY, BLACK SEA, every Saturday. 
CEYLON, INDIA, AUSTRALIA, NEW CALEDONIA, NEW 

HEBRIDES, every 28 days, Wednesday. 
CEYLON, INDIA, INDO-CHINA, SIAM, TONQUIN, CHINA, 

JAPAN, every n days, Supday. 
EAST-AFRICA, MADAGASCAR, REUNION, MAURITIUS, 

op the to"> & zs" of every month. 

From BORDEAUX to 

SPAIN, P0RTU6AL, SENEGAL. BRAZIL, RIVER PLATE, 

every 14 days, friday. 



From LONDONto BOMBAY 
and vice versa 

Single Tickets available 

1 2 months 

I" d.Railandstcamer £56.16.0 

!"'cl. . .41.12.0 

Return Tickets available 
24 months 

1 " cl. Rail and steamer £85. 4.0 
2"' cl. ■ .. « 65. 8.0 



From LONDON to tbc 
FAR EAST ajd vice versa 

Single Tickets available 
12 months 

1" cl.Railaui!sleamer£71. 4.0 
2"'cl. . .48.4.0 

Return Tickets available 
24 months 

1" cl. Railand Sttainer£l06.l6.0 
!•' =1. • . 72. 6.0 



ROUND THE WORLD TOURS 

The Mcssagerics Maritimes Company has placed at 
tlie disposal of the pubhc various tours round the 
World, combined witn the Omadian Pacific Railway 
Company, the Soiilhcin Pacific Company, the Eastern 
and Aiisirtiiiaii, the Americau Line, and the Australian 
Line, the Compagnie Geiierale Transatlaulique, and the 
great American Railways. 



From LONDON to EGYPT and vice versa 

Single tickets available for 120 days 



lass throughout 
Fr. 451.50 



i'"" class throughout 
Fr. 339.— 



Return tickets available one year 

I" class tluougliout 2"-' class thtoughoi 

Fr. 799.05 Fr. 598.80 



Circular Tours on the Mediterranean 



From and to ANY POINT IN FRANCE OR EUROPE 



The passage rates of the Messageries Marilhnes Coih- 
pan/s Mediterranean service arc incorporated in the 
French and International « Tarifs communs G. V. 205 »; 
all stations and railway offices in France and on the 
Continent therefore, authorised to issue combination 
coupons for circular tickets .at the rate of these tariffs 
are able 10 establish, according to passenger's wish, 
tickets over all the principal turopean railways and by 
ihe Meitageries Maritimes Company's Muditerranean Lines. 
The Messageries Maritimes Company's call the particular 
atiention of tourists to the advantages ot thesi; combi- 
nations. 

The above fares include food, luilb table wine, and 
medical attendance, for the portion accomplished bj' the 
steamers of the Messageries Maritimes Company. 
Specimens circular tours with combinable coupons. 

i" Paris, Lyons. Geneva, Lausanne, Turin. Milan, 
Genoa, Monaco, Nice, Toulon, Marseilles, Alexandria, 
Marseilles, Paris. 

I" class Fr. 776 - 2-^ class Fr. 581.50 



2" Paris. Modaiie, Milan, Genoa, Pisi, Florence, 
Rome, Naples, Piraeus, Smyrna, Constantinople. Ba- 
touni, Constantinople, Piraeus, Marseille, Lyons. Paris. 



: Fr. 844.50 



2"^ class Fr. 533.60 



5° Marseilles, Valence, Gibraltar, Tangiers, Mcllila t 
Nemours, Oran, Algiers, Kroubs, Turtis, Naples, 
Alexandria, Jaffa, Beyrout, Rhodes, Constantinople, 
Sofia, Constantinople, Smyrna, Piraeus, Marseilles. 

I" class Fr. 1119.15' 2''^ class Fr. 797.60' 

4" Marseilles, Alexandria, Port-Said, Jaffa, Caiffa, 
Beyrout, Rhodes, Smyrna, Constantinople, Constan<ta, 
Vienna, Berlin, Paris, Marseilles, 



N, B. The fares quoted above include food for the 
steamer portion of the journey. 



Validity \2o days, without free allowance of registered baggage on the rail journey 
For particulars, apply to Messrs. RAYMOND & WHITCOMB C*' 
25, Union Square. NEW-YORK. | 



ROUTE N" -1 

VIA CHINA. JAPAN AND CANADA 
via VANCOOVER 

By Rail from London ot Paris lo Marseilles 



From Marseilles to Hong-Kong by steamers of 
the Messageries Maritimes Company, via the Suez Canal, 
Djibouti or Aden, Colombo, Singapore, Saigon. ' 

Fruni Hong-Eong to Sanghai, Kobe (Hiogo) and 
Yokohama, by steamers of the Messageries Maritimes 
Company, or by those of the Camidian-Pacific Company, 
at the choice of passenger. 

. From Tokobama to Vaucouver, by steamers of 
tlie Canadian Pacific Company, and from there by the 
different routes ofl'ered by the Canadian Pacific Railway 
Company to Quebec, Montreal. Halifax, Saint-john 

(N. B.) or New-York. 

From New-York to Liverpool or Southampton, 
by steamers of either the Cnnard Line, IVbile Star Line, 
Americau Line or Nord-drntsclicr Lloyd, thence rail to 
London, and Paris, or vlco-versa, 

FAKE : £ 137 



ROUTE NO 6 

VU AUSTRALIA, TORRES STRAITS, JAPON 
AND SAN-FRANCISCO 



By rail I'n 



. Londou or Paris to Marieilles 



From Marseilles to Sydney by Me<sageries Mari- 
times Company's steamers, via Suez Canal, Djibouti ot 
Aden, Bombay. Colombo, Frcmantle, and Melbourne. 

From Sydney to Hong-Kong by steamers of the 
Eastern and Anshaliim Steamship Company, via Torres 
Straits. 

From Hong-Kong to San-Francisco by steamers 

of the Pacific Mail Occidental and Oriental, or the Tokio 
Kysen Kaisha Company. 

From San-Francisco to New-York by the various 
routes offered by the Soiitbern Paciji^ Company via Chi- 
cago and Ogden, or New Orleans (Sunset Route). 

From New-York to Liverpool or Southampton 
by steamers of either tlie Cnnard Line, Jl'hite Star Line, 
American Line or Norddentscber Uoyd, or from NflW- 
York to Hivre, by steamers of the Compagnie Gini- 
rah Transitilantiqiie, thence by rail to London, or 
vice-versa. 

TARE : £ 170 



SPECIAL TRIPS TROUGH CENTRAL AFRICA 

From LONDON to the VICTORIA NYANZA via MOMBASA 



Single tickets available i 3 months 
cL Rail and steamer £ ^6.12.0 



u ^7.16.0 



Return tickets available 24 mouths 

s" cl. Rail And Steamer s- Si|>lS. 

2"U]. — » 56.10. 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



which, when completed, will connect at Hankow, 
China, thence with the Great Trans-Siberian 
Railway to Europe. Within the French posses- 
sions there are i,ooo miles of telegraph line and 



over 12,000 miles of wire with 300 telegraph 
ofifices ; four urban and four interurban tele- 
phone systems with 1,000 miles of line, leading 
to all parts of the possessions. 



Ann 

FRENCH intervention in the affairs of An- 
nam, which began as early as 1787, was 
terminated by a treaty signed June 6, 1884, 
and ratified at Hue on February 23, 1886, by 
which French protectorate was established over 
Annam. Prince Bun Lam was proclaimed king 
on January 31, 1889, under the title of Than- 
Thai. The ports of Tourane, Qui-nhon and 
Xuan-dai are opened to European commerce, 
and the customs revenue conceded to France. 
French troops occupy part of the citadel of Hue, 
the capital with a population of 50,000. An- 



am 

namite functionaries, under the control of the 
French Government, administer all the internal 
affairs of Annam. The area of the protectorate 
is about 52,100 square miles, with a population 
(1901) of 6,124,000, of which 4,000 were Chi- 
nese, 250 Europeans. The population is An- 
namite in the towns and along the coast, and 
consists of various tribes of Mois in the hilly 
tracts. 420,000 of the inhabitants are Roman 
Catholics. There are five secondary schools, with 
twenty-three teachers and 596 pupils, who are 
in constant attendance. 



Cambodia 



AREA, 37,400 square miles ; population, 
1,500,000, consisting of several indigenous 
races, 40,000 Malays, 250,000 Chinese and 
Annamites, and about 350 Europeans. The 
country is under King Norodom, who recognized 
the French protectorate in 1863, and it is divided 
into fifty-seven provinces. The two chief towns 



are Pnom-Penh (population 50,000), the capital 
of the territory, and Kampot, a seaport, but not 
accessible for sea-going vessels. In 1897 there 
were 193 pupils attending the one elementary 
school in the protectorate. At Pnom-Penh a 
higher school has 276 pupils. The Cambodians 
demonstrate great ability to learn. 



Tonking 



THIS territory, annexed to France in 1884, 
has an area of 46,400 square miles, and is 
divided into fourteen provinces, with 8,000 
villages and a population estimated at over 
7,000,000 natives, 33,000 Chinese and 3,900 
Europeans. There are 400,000 Roman Catho- 
lics. The King of Annam was formerly repre- 
sented in Tonking by a viceroy, but in July, 1897, 
he consented to the suppression of the viceroyalty 
and the creation of a French residency in its 
place. Chief town Hanoi, an agglomeration of 
many villages, with a population of 150,000. 
This town became, on January i, 1902, the 
capital of Indo-China, instead of Saigon. In 
1899 thirty-eight schools had 1,800 pupils. The 



chief crop is rice, exported mostly to Hongkong ; 
the export in 1901 amounted to 150,818 tons. 
Other products are sugar cane, silk, cardamoms, 
cotton, coffee, various fruit trees and tobacco. 
About 500,000 kilograms of raw silk are pro- 
duced annually, of which 300,000 kilograms are 
used in native weaving and the remainder ex- 
ported. At Haiphong is a cotton mill with 16,000 
spindles, employing 600 hands. At Hanoi there 
is another with 10,000 spindles. There are cop- 
per and iron mines of good quality. Coal is 
worked at Hongay, the out-put in 1900 having 
been 194,441 tons; in 1901, 248,622 tons, besides 
60,824 tons of briquettes ; in 1902, 300.000 
tons. 



Bangkok, Siam 



BANGKOK, the capital of Siam, the land of 
the Siamese twins, the white elephant, the 
yellow robe and the land of the free, is 
possibly one of the most strangely interesting 
cities of South Asia. 

Bangkok (city of wild fruit-trees) is situated on 
both banks of the River Menam (mother of 
waters), about twenty miles above its mouth. 



The entrance to this river is like a placid lake, 
draped on both sides with impenetrable jungles 
of tropical growth, whose reflections cast upon 
the water a picture that will linger in your 
memory through a lifetime. Shortly after enter- 
ing the river the eye meets the picturesque island 
temple of Paknam, standing out in bold relief, 
the morning sun reflected upon its gilded dome, 



152 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



making it appear as a pillar of gold. This temple 
represents the ecclesiastical form of architecture 
for which the country is so famous. 

Your steamer passes on between banks richly 
clad with tropical verdure of all kinds. Through 
the boughs of the graceful and feathery bamboo, 
palms and cocoanut trees, all imaginable kinds 
of creepers clamber to the light of heaven above, 
making a stage setting finer and more realistic 
than could ever be painted. Here and there along 
the banks are those peculiar floating huts in 
which reside over a half million of Siam's people. 
Occasionally this panoramic scene is broken, only 
to reveal, through nature's frame, one far more 
beautiful, of the distant, verdant green or golden 
tinted rice-fields, dotted here and there with 
patient people gathering and harvesting their 
crops. Many boats, with strange, wing-like sails, 
pass by, bearing their valuable cargoes of rice 
to some tramp steamer lying at the mouth of the 
river. 

Then again amid this tropical jungle towers 
the dome of a beautiful temple ; and in the fore- 
ground a bronzed figure, naked save for his palm- 
leaf hat, stands in a shell-Hke boat casting with 
marvelous dexterity his circular net that, when 
brought to the surface, reveals many shining 
fish, one of nature's gifts so lavishly bestowed 
upon these people. Parrots and gorgeously- 
plumed birds are discerned flying from tree to 
tree, and the keen-eyed fish hawk, in active com- 
petition with the native fisherman, flits about 
everywhere. Monkeys race through the tree- 
tops, apparently trying to outrun your ship and 
chattering to you in chorus a welcome to this fas- 
cinating land. 

Presently the ship swings around a sharp bend 
in the river; the scene is changed from that 
primeval tropical life to one of a modern age and 
progressiveness, as Bangkok hoves in sight. 
Here the traveler's eye can feast upon much that 
is new. The floating houses, the variety of ship- 
ping, the immense rice mills, the teak-wood yards 
and saw-mills that prepare the world's supply of 
teak, and the elephants piling this valuable article 
of commerce ; the beautiful palaces and buildings, 
and the various scenes of the streets through 
which course the modern electric cars. 

That part of the city adjoining the Royal 
Palace is beautifully laid out in a number of 
parks and fine residences. The temples of the 
city are numerous and gorgeous in the highest 
sense, each being composed of several stories, 
rising, terrace-like, one above the other, the whole 
forming a pyramidal-shaped building, with re- 
splendent pillars richly decorated in gold, and its 
several roofs formed of glazed tiles of the most 
brilliant colorings. 

HOTELS. — There is only one to which I can 
direct the traveler, the "Oriental," which will be 
found as comfortable as any of those visited 



along the coast of Asia. Its representative al- 
ways meets the steamer, rendering all assistance 
necessary in passing your baggage through the 
customs, which process incurs no difficulty what- 
soever. Having procured a comfortable room 
you will naturally want to see the city and what 
it affords worthy of note. There are no licensed 
guides, so it is best to have the hotel management 
procure the services of a reliable native to con- 
duct you about the city. 

PLACES OF INTEREST.— The first and 
most important step is to call upon your Consul 
or Minister, on whom you can depend for much 
valuable information, and the procuring of per- 
mission for you to visit the Royal Palace and its 
surroundings. 

The Royal Palace is the most important feature 
of the city. The outer walls enclose an immense 
area, but the ground devoted to the actual resi- 
dence and garden is comparatively small. With- 
in the walls are various ministries, namely, the 
Foreign Office, the Treasury, the Ministry of the 
Interior, the Ministry of the Household, and, in 
addition, the Royal Library, Legislative Council 
and a magnificent Buddhist temple. 

Within the palace walls the traveler will have 
an opportunity to see the sacred white elephants, 
the emblem of the country, of which he has heard 
so much. They are five in number, each housed 
separately in a building just back of the Depart- 
ment of the Interior edifice. They do not differ 
from the ordinary elephant save that their skin 
is a clear, transparent, cream color, dotted with 
innumerable small black spots ; and two of them 
are of enormous size. It is customary to give 
the attendant a few coppers to feed the elephants 
for you, and you will be amazed at the tremen- 
dous quantity of green grass they manage to 
consume. These white or cream-colored ele- 
phants are sacred not only in Siam but likewise in 
Cambodia, Burma and Ceylon. 

Within the palace grounds is Wat Prakeo, 
which holds a gigantic image of the saint in a 
reclining position, the whole about 140 feet long, 
richly inlaid with mother-of-pearl. Here also is 
the famous Emerald Buddha, a figure about 
eighteen inches in height of jade stone, whose 
head is fashioned from a single emerald, while 
near at hand in cases along the walls are hun- 
dreds of solid gold miniature images, and actually 
double hands full of precious stones representing 
in value millions of dollars. 

Just outside, lying in front of the Royal Palace, 
is the promenade, or recreation ground, where 
polo, gold, cricket and baseball are played by 
the European population ; and, incidentally, that 
is the spot from which the natives fly and fight 
their kites. It is a most remarkable spectacle to 
see two lifeless, yet apparently game birds, fight- 
ing a battle royal in mid-air, with as much dex- 
terity and apparent anxiousness to kill their op- 



153 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



ponent as if they were on terra firma and imbued 
with life. This is great sport among the natives, 
and not quite so innocent as it might appear, for 
in the midst of the enthusiastic crowds gathered 
here and tliere are thousands of ticals heaped 
upon the ground, to be won or lost as a result 
of the fight. 

The Royal Museum, situated close by, is of 
great value to the ethnologist and the anti- 
quarian interested in the past of this section of 
the world. Some of its relics, though badly as- 
sorted, are really beyond price. The museum is 
open to the public free of charge on certain days 
each week, from ii a. m. to 5 p. m. 

Near by, also, are the Artillery and Royal 
Bodyguard barracks and Hall of the Ambassa- 
dores, where distinguished visitors are enter- 
tained during their sojourn at Bangkok. Farther 
along is the Royal Court of Justice, a handsome 
building of Doric design, and fairly well arranged 
within in European design. Here also stands the 
Royal Mint, equipped with the latest and most 
improved machinery. 

Near Wang Na, a few moments' drive from 
the promenade, are the state barges used by the 
king and his officials on festive occasions, and 
particularly during the Thot Kathindr cere- 
monies. Many of these queer boats are extraor- 
dinarily large, affording ample room for two 
hundred rowers. 

Various other Government buildings, especially 
the Naval College, schools and prison, are all 
worthy a visit, particularly to those interested in 
the progress of the East. 

DRIVES. — From the recreation ground to the 
northeast stretches the finest boulevard in Bang- 
kok, leading from the Royal Palace to Dusit , 
Park, a private residence of the king. This 
boulevard consists of three carriage ways, sepa- 
rated one from the other by double lines of trees, 
and boarded by shady footpaths ; and running at 



right angles from it are many subsidiary roads, 
making the total length of carriage roads over 
150 miles. 

The king's private palace is surrounded by or- 
namental gardens, open to the public, the whole 
quarter being laid out as a purely residential dis- 
trict, and the houses occupied by the princes and 
noblemen of the court. 

TEMPLES, or "Wats," as they are called, 
comprise all kinds, styles and sizes, and the prin- 
cipal ones ought to be included on your sight- 
seeing list. Probably the most stately is "Wat 
Cheng," on the west side of the river. Another 
is "Wat Saket," or Po Kau Tawng, i. c., Golden 
Mountain," where in former years the bodies of 
paupers and friendless foreigners were exposed 
to the parish dogs and vultures in the temple 
yard. You will "observe that the limbs and 
branches of the stately trees surrounding the 
court all bend downward from the weight of 
thousands of vultures that constantly waited 
there for bodies. 

Wat Saket is the highest point in Bangkok. It 
stands on the summit of an artificial hill con- 
structed of bricks, pieces of rock, etc., and is 
approached by winding staircases. The summit 
is 400 feet above the sea level, and is officially 
known as Barom Bamblot. A magnificent view 
of the city and surrounding country may be 
gained from the top of this temple. 

Others of note are : Wat Rachabopitr, Wat 
Benchamabopitr and Wat Samplum. At the 
latter is a pond full of crocodiles, daily fed by 
the attendant priests. The handsome roofs of 
colored tiles covering these temples make a strik- 
ing and handsome appearance, while the triple 
gables, a feature peculiar to Siamese Mosaic ar- 
chitecture, in no small degree enhance their at- 
tractiveness. All wats are readily accessible to 
visitors, but it is best to have a guide explain 
their special points of beauty and construction. 



Ayuthia 



THERE are several side trips which the 
traveler can make with great comfort, 
either by rail or boat, to points outside of 
Bangkok. One most recommended would be a 
trip to the ancient capital of Siam, Ayuthia, forty 
miles north of Bangkok. Here were enacted the 
most striking episodes of Siam's history. It was 
made the capital in A. D. 1350, and remained 
such until destroyed by the invading Burmese in 
1767. Near the present village are the ruins of 
ancient Ayuthia, covering an immense area of 
ground. The archaeologist will find enough to 
keep him studying for days and even months and 
years should he wish to remain. Many of the 
greatest relics are covered by tropical vegetation 
so densely as to render access impossible, yet suf- 



ficient can be seen to convey, even in decay, the 
evidence of a culture that typified the ancient 
place. 

At Ayuthia is situated the famous elephant 
stockade, or enclosure, in which wild elephants 
are driven to be captured and domesticated. It 
is a massive structure of teak logs set deep into 
the ground, with a V-shaped passage leading to 
the entrance. At stated intervals, usually in Feb- 
ruary, the king orders an elephant drive, when 
several days are set aside as a holiday, and thou- 
sands of people attend the hunt and capture of 
these, the largest animals in the world. When a 
hunt or drive is to take place, the feeding fields of 
the wild elephants are noted weeks and some- 
times months beforehand, and they are gradually 



IS4 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



surrounded by hundreds of men, mounted upon 
tamed elephants, who for days gather about the 
wild herd, moving them along little by little, 
letting them stop to rest and graze, until at last, 
tired and almost worn out from travel and lack 
of their usual water supply, the wild beasts ap- 
proach the entrance to the kraal. Then there 
ensues a scene utterly impossible to describe as 
the enormous animals find themselves being 
pressed forward by those behind into the massive 
enclosure — a surging and trumpeting herd. 
Once inside, 
thousands upon 
thousands of 
people gather 
about the outside 
of the stockade, 
there being a 
special tribune 
from where the 
king and his reti- 
nue watch the 
sport, as the 
herders on the 
trained elephants 
enter and capture 
by long leg-ropes 
those they wish 
to tame. It is re- 
markable with 
what knowledge 
and cautiousness 
the tame ele- 
phants act in the 

though they really delighted in being thus em- 
ployed. 

During a recent drive there were 380 elephants 
brought from the interior after sixty days' herd- 
ing, but owing to a stampede just before entering 
the kraal only 200 odd were driven into the 
enclosure. On this occasion the elephants became 
frightened and enraged after they were inside, 
killing and trampling to death over twenty of 
their number. As they fell, others piled on top, 
until it, seemed like a mountain forming of thc^e 
giants, and together with the pitiful cries and 




ELEPH.-^NT DRIVE 



capturing, it appearmg as 



trumpeting, created a scene never before wit- 
nessed on earth. 

Imagine, if you can, 380 wild elephants driven 
from the heart of their native jungle for a dis- 
tance of over a hundred miles. A creature which, 
at full stature, stands at twice the height of an 
average man ; which weighs as much as eight 
thousand pounds ; carries tusks, a pair of which 
have been known to exceed 350 pounds ; whose 
feet measure 180 inches in circumference; who 
can shuffle through the forest jungles faster than 

an athlete can 
sprint on a cinder 
track, and who 
has been known 
to swim nine 
hours in one day ; 
that can throw 
down large trees 
oy the mere im- 
pact of its charge, 
and has intelli- 
gence enough to 
score with its 
tusks the boles of 
those that would 
resist ; who can 
toss the huge 
tiger thirty feet 
in the air, or pin 
it helpless to the 
earth by a side- 
ward lunge of the 
tusk; and who, in captivity, often grows sullen 
mad and with one blow kills its keeper ; whose 
ears detect the faintest sounds, and whose eyes, 
though relatively small,- never miss the most 
cautious movement ; .ijvfio never forgets a friend 
or forgives an enemy^a creature like this could 
singly and alone rout a hundred of its herders. 
Yet. yearly vast numbers of them are caught and 
released at this famous capital for the mere 
pleasure and pastime of a king. This novel sport 
causes bull fighting, lion hunting, whale harpoon- 
ing, etc., to sink into secondary significance, 
compared with the King's sport. 



Siam (Sayam or Muang-Thai) 



THE reigning king is named Chulalongkorn 
I (Somdetch Phra Paramindr Maha), born 
September 21, 1853; the eldest son of the 
late King Maha Mongkut and of Queen Ram- 
phiiy (Krom Somdetch Pratape Sirindr) ; suc- 
ceeded to the throne on the death of his father, 
October i, li 



Children of the King. 
I. Princess Walai-alongltom, bom April, 1883. 
II. Princess Sirapomsophon, bom July 9, 1887. 

Children of the Ex-Queen. 
I. Prince Chowfa Maha Vajiravudh, January i, 1880, (pro- 
claimed Crown Prince January 17, 189s). 



II. Prince Chowfa Chakrapongse Poowanarth, March 3, 1881. 
III. Prince Chowfa Asadang Dajarvoot, May, 1889; and others. 

Brother of the King. 

Somdetch Chowfa Bhanurangsi Swangvvongse, bom January 13, 
i860. Title; Krom Pra Bhanupandhwongse Woradej. 

There are also twenty half-brothers of the king. 

The royal dignity is nominally hereditary, but does not descend 
always from the father to the eldest son. each sovereign being in- 
vested with the privilege of nominating his own successor. 



GOVERNMENT,— The executive power is 
exercised by the king, advised by a Cabinet 
(Senabodi) consisting of the heads of the 
various departments of the Government : Foreign 



15s 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



Affairs, Interior, Justice, Finance, Public In- 
struction, Public Works, War, Marine, Police, 
etc. Most of the portfolios are held by the king's 
half-brothers and sons. The law of May 8, 1874, 
constituting a Council of State, has now been 
superseded by the royal decree of January 10, 
1895, creating a Legislative Council. The latter 
is composed of the Ministers of State and others, 
not less than twelve in number, appointed by the 
crown. The total membership is now fifty-one. 

The Siamese Malay States are administered by 
the Rajahs, mostly under the control of Com- 
missioners sent from Bangkok. The State of 
Kelantan is governed by the Rajah, assisted by 
an English Adviser and Assistant Adviser. The 
Laos (Shan) State of Chiengmai, Lakon, Lam- 
poonchi. Nan, Pree and others are similarly ad- 
ministered. 

The trans-Mekong portion of the State of 
Luang Prabang is now under French protection. 
The remainder is still Siamese. 

The Siamese dominions are divided into forty- 
one provinces or districts, each having a Com- 
missioner, deriving authority direct from the 
king, and having under him subordinate gov- 
ernors over various parts of his district. Until 
1895 the administration of the country was di- 
vided between the Ministers of the North, South 
and Foreign Affairs. It was then brought under 
the single authority of Prince Damrong, as 
Minister of the Interior, under whose administra- 
tion great improvements have been already made. 
Official buildings, such as court houses and goals, 
are being erected all over the country, and the 
system of provincial gendarmerie is being ex- 
tended. There is, however, an insufficient supply 
of suitable officials to carry out reforms, and in- 
competence and oppression brought about in 1902 
a rising of the Shan population of the north 
from which the country has not yet recovered. 
Several of the tributary districts are administered 
by their own princes, but of late years centraliza- 
tion has greatly increased. The Malay States 
retain, however, a certain measure of independ- 
ence. Commissioners, chosen by the king, are 
now regularly sent from Bangkok to most of 
these tributary provinces, both to those in the 
north, as Chiengmai, and those in the south, as 
Singora, and others, with very full powers. 

AREA AND POPULATION.— The limits 
of the Kingdom of Siam have varied much at 
different periods of its history, most of the 
border lands being occupied by tribes more or 
less independent. The boundary between Burma 
and Northwest Siam was delimited in 1891 by a 
commission, and, by the treaty of September, 1893, 
the River Mekong was constituted the boundary 
between Siam and the French possessions ; but 
the Siamese were prohibited from keeping troops 
on a strip of territory fifteen miles wide on the 
western bank. In January, 1896, an arrangement 



was agreed to between the British and French 
Governments, by which they guaranteed to Siam 
the integrity of the territory embraced in the 
basins of the Menam, Melong, Petchaburi and 
Bangpakong Rivers, together with the coast from 
Mong Bang Tapan to Mong Pase, including also 
the territory lying to the north of Menam basin, 
between the Anglo-Siamese border, the Mekong 
River and the eastern watershed of the Me Ing. 
To take the place of the unratified treaty of Oc- 
tober 7, 1907, a new treaty was signed by the 
representatives of Siam and France on February 
13, 1904. The frontier between Siam and Cam- 
bodia will now be altered so that a territory of 
8,000 square miles, including the provinces of 
Maluprey and Barsak, will be transferred to 
French rule, and, in addition, the Siamese Gov- 
ernment abandons all claim to the Luang Pra- 
bang territory on the western side of Mekong. 
There are rigid stipulations as to the troops which 
Siam may keep in the Mekong valley, and as to 
the improvement of waterways and construction 
of railways, neither native nor foreign capital 
being permitted in that region without special 
agreement with France, which will hold Chanta- 
bun till the new boundary is delimited. 

The area of Siam is about 220,000 square 
miles, about 60,000 being in the Malay Penin- 
sula. The number of the population is even more 
imperfectly known than the extent of the ter- 
ritory, and the difficulty of any correct result is 
the greater on account of the Oriental custom of 
numbering only the men. The latest foreign esti- 
mates give the population of the Kingdom as 
follows: 1,500,000 Siamese, 600,000 Chinese, 
600,000 Malays, immigrant Burmese, Indians and 
Cambodians, bringing the total up to 5,000,000. 
In 1901, 29,709 Chinese coolies entered Siam, 
and 19,266 departed. Bangkok has a population 
of between 300,000 and 400,000, about 100,000 
being Chinese. 

In recent years the results of Western civiliza- 
tion have, to some extent, been introduced, and, 
with the assistance of a British and American Ad- 
viser to the Ministry of Justice, and one or two 
Belgian Assistant Advisers, some advance has 
been made in the administration of justice in the 
native courts and in the International Court 
which tries suits of foreigners against natives. 

RELIGION AND INSTRUCTION.— The 

prevailing religion is Buddhism, and throughout 
the country education is chiefly in the hands of 
the priests, of whose services the Government in- 
tends to make more effective use. In the whole 
country there are some 5,000 temples, containing 
60,000 priests. Of these priests 3,336 are re- 
corded as being teachers of Siamese, with a 
total of 23,189 pupils. The Siamese language is 
now firmly established as the official language 
over the whole country. The Minister of Public 
Instruction and Ecclesiastical Affairs has also 



1S6 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



under his charge several Government hospitals, 
which have been established by the king, besides 
a public museum, and all the royal monasteries in 
the capital. 

MONEY. — The legal money of Siam is the 
tical, a silver coin weighing 236 grains troy, 910 
fine. Other silver coins from the Siamese mint 
now cvirrent are the salung and the fuang, the 
former being one-fourth, the latter one-eighth of 



a tical. The tical is worth about I4d. (17.46 
ticals^£i), but a scheme has been approved 
placing the tical currency on a gold basis. On 
November 26, 1902, the mint was closed to the 
free coinage of silver, and the exchange value of 
the tical has since risen from 22 to 18^ ticals 
to the pound sterling, the proposed standard being 
17 to the pound sterling. The Siamese tical is 
worth in American money about 30 cents, or 
about 60 cents of the Mexican dollar. 



Information Concerning Singapore 

SINGAPORE, capital of the British Straits Settlements, and the most important commercial 
emporium of Southern Asia, is situated on the Island of Singapore, in latitude 1° 17' N., 
and longitude 103° 50' 47" E. The city was founded by Sir Stamford Raffles in 1819. The 
island was ceded to Great Britain in 1824, and in 1867 became a crown colony of Great Britain. 

POPULATION. — In igoo, 193,089. Of this number 141,865 were Chinese, 26,230 Mcdays, 
15,646 natives of India, 2,748 Europeans and Americans and 3,982 Eurasians. 

HOTELS. — Singapore has many first class hotels, as the "Raffles Hotel," "Hotel de 
L'Europe," "Caledonian Hotel," "Hotel de la Paix," and the "Sea View Hotel," all offering the 
very best accommodations. 



HOW TO REACH THE FOLLOWING PLACES FROM SINGAPORE. 

Fare 
Messageries Maritime S. S. Co.. Every ten days. 

North German Lloyd Every ten days . 

Hongkong ■< British India Co Every ten days. 

Nippon Yusen Kaisha Every ten days . 

Peninsular Oriental S. S. Co. . . Every ten days . 



First class, £8 

> Second class, £6 

Int'm'te, £4 



The same steamer lines run north to Shanghai, Yokohama and way ports. 



■o • r f Dutch Packet line 

Batavia, Java | jjqj.^j^ German Lloyd 

Bangkok, Siam / ^orneo S S. Co. . 

^ I East Asiatic S. S. Co 

Calcutta and Rangoon British India S. N. Co 

Saigon Messageries Maritime S. S. Co. 

f Messageries Maritime S. S. Co. 

Colombo and Europe <^ ^orth German Lloyd . .... 
I Peninsular Oriental S. N. Co. . , 
L Nippon Yusen Kaisha 



Weekly 
Fifteen days 
Weekly 
Weekly 
Weekly 
Twelve days 
Twelve days 
Ten days 
Fifteen days 
Fifteen days 



\ $50 Mexican 

J Various 

\ Various 

/ Various 

Various 
First class, £3 



Singapore 



THE capital of the British Straits Settlements, 
called the "Lion City," lies on an island of 
the same name, on "the southern extremity 
of the Malay Peninsula. By reason of its geo- 
graphical position it is known as the "Cross 
Roads" to the Eastern and Western Hemispheres, 
as all shipping and passenger traffic on the great 
highway around the globe have no other option 
but to pass through the portals of this prosperous 
city. 

The approach from either the east or west into 
Singapore harbor is very interesting. Its shore 



lines all about are fringed by forests of cocoanut 
trees, and the city's handsome buildings standing 
out in bold relief make a favorable impression at 
sight. 

Entering the inner harbor, your ship is at once 
surrounded by a flotilla of little canoes filled with 
dozens of young Malays, who paddle, shriek and 
banter at you to toss coins into the water. These 
amphibious people present a strange appearance, 
their once coal-black hair having become bleached 
by the combined action of the salt water and sun, 
until they resemble more than anything a 



157 



RAFFLES HOTEL 




1888 



'THE SAVOY OF SINGAPORE" 



■The Sphere, London, March i8th, 1905 



1906 



Renowned for its All-round Modern Comforts ^^^.^g the 



HARBOR 



CUISINE: The Best 

This Department is under the immediate supervision of Two European 
Chefs. Accommodation splendid. Every room has its Private Sitting, 
Dressing and Bath Rooms. 

The Largest Marble Dining Hall in the East 

Reading, Writing and Drawing Rooms, Billiard Room 

The only Hotel in the Straits lighted with Electricity. Electric Bells. 

Electric Fans. Spacious Green Lawns. Lawn Tennis 



Guest Nights 



Branches : Eastern and Oriental 
Hotel, Penang, Crag Hotel 
and Sanitarium, Penang Hills; 
Strand Hotel, Rangoon. 

Livery St bles and Laundry in connection 
with the Hotel. Own Rubber-Tired Jin- 
rickishaws. Bicycle and Motor Stands. 
Enquiry Office. 



EVERY SATURDAY 
BAND and SKATING 



Telephone No. 85 

Telegrams : 

** RAFFLES, Singapore" 



Hotel Runners board all in-coming and 
out-going Steamers. Sample Room for 
Commercial Travelers. Baggaie Room — 
No Cnarge. Dark Room for Amateur 
Photographers Free. 



SARKIES BROTHERS, Proprietors 



A FEW OF OUR NOTABLE 
PATRONS 

TheirMajestiestheKingandQueenof Siam. 

H. I. H. Gr^nd Duke Cyril of Russia. 

H. S. H. Prince Adalbert of Germany. 

H. L H. Prince Kan-in of Japan. 

H. R. H. Prince Damrong of Siam. 

H. R. H. Prince Tugala of Siam. 

His Grace the Duke of Newcastle. 

Rt. Hon. the Earl of Dysart. 

Rt. Hon. Earl of Crawford. 

General Baron Oku. 

Sir John Anderson, K.C.M.G. 

Sir Frank Swettenham, K.C.M.G. 

The Late M. Verestchagin. 

Late Admiral Sir Henry Keppel. 

Admiral Sir Cyprian Bridge. 

Admiral Sir Henri' Sevmour. 

Gen. Sir A. R. F. Dorward, K.C.B.. D.S.O. 

General Stoessel. 

H. H. Sultan Ibrahim of Johore. 

H. R. H. Prince Victor Dulup Singh. 

H. \. H. Prince Iwakura of Japan. 

Lord Cecil. 

Maharaja of Gwalior. G. C.S.I. 

Maharaja of Kapurthala. 

Sir Francis Lowell. 

Sir Lionel Cox, Chief Justice. 

Lord Dormer. 

Admiral SkrydlofT, 

General Yamaguchi. 

Admiral Jessen. 

Gen. MacArthur. U.S.A. Army. Etc 



IS8 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



"chemical blonde." They bail with an automatic 
action of the leg, using the hollow of the foot, 
which acts as a dipper and throws the water from 
the canoe with regular strokes, keeping time with 
the dip of the paddle ; and when a coin drops they 
let go of the paddle and shed their canoe without 
the slightest effort. There is a splash, reflections 
of white soles, bubbles and a commotion below, 
and presently the diver emerges from the water, 
the coin in his teeth, and flips naturally into his 
boat, it actually seeming as though he had never 
lost a stroke. 

All along the docks are bronzed figtires sitting 
back of canoes piled high with magnificent sea- 
shells, beautiful coral and sponges, star fish and 



about "What would you rather do, or go a-fish- 
ing?" the answer, undoubtedly, would quickly 
follow, "Go a-fishing." 

Your steamer lands at the Tandjong Pagar 
wharves, some two miles from the city proper, 
which is easily and comfortably reached in a few 
minutes by garrie or rickshaw. At the docks you 
will be greeted by anxious hotel representatives, 
who may be intrusted with your baggage in per- 
fect safety. Singapore is a free port ; no custom 
regulations will detain 3'ou. 

Singapore offers no great points of interest to 
attract the traveler, yet there is enough to occupy 
your time for several days. The town is well 
built, not merely in the European residential 




RAFFLES QUAY, SING.APORE 



strange treasures from the sea. Remember, a 
whole boatload of possibly 300 or more different 
shells may be purchased for $10 Mex., or $5 
U. S. gold; or, if you wish to barter, j^ou can 
get them for even less, and delivered at your hotel 
and packed beautifully for shipment in payment 
of $2. 

The harbor is always active with the loading 
and unloading of cargo and its numerous fishing 
crews. Many different flags are represented on 
the ships that weigh anchor, coming from all 
parts of the globe. The JMalays are great fisher- 
men, in fact, that is about all they can do; and 
should you ask them the time-worn question 



section but also in the native quarters. At the 
rear of the city stands old Fort Canning, erected 
just outside the original settlement, but now sup- 
plemented by modern batteries which command 
the entire harbor. Permission to visit these forts 
is well-nigh impossible to obtain. 

The Governor's Palace is a large, impressive 
structure, situated in the midst of a beautiful 
park at the top of one of the three hills on the 
outskirts of the city. . , 

The most charming spot is the turfed and 
shaded esplanade fronting on the outer harbor, 
where a monument has been erected to Sir Stam- 
ford Raffles, the founder of the city. During the 



159 



HOTEL DE L'EUROPE 

Singapore, Straits Settlements 

THE FINEST HOTEL IN THE EAST 



This hotel building was especially constructed for that purpose in 1906-07, 
and is equipped with all the latest and most modem improvements known in hotel 
furnishings. The building is most conveniently arranged, with broad, spacious 
verandas and halls, especially adapted for comfort in the tropics. 



DINING HALL. — Is one of the most attractive to be found while traveling 
around the world, accommodating 300 persons. It occupies the entire court of the 
building, and with excellent tiled floors, assures constant coolness. The dining 
hall is prettily decorated with cocoanut palms and hanging orchids, making it a 
most charming and ideal place in which to dine. There is constantly in attendance 
an Austrian string band com.posed of ladies, who render most charming selections. 
The tables are all individual tables, which can either be used alone or arranged 
within a few moments to accommodate a party of any size. 



BILLIARD SALOON AND BAR.— The ground floor is devoted principally 
to billiard rooms, reading rooms, writing rooms, bar-room, and private sections 
where conversation may be carried on without interruption. The Bar, conducted 
on American principles, is well stocked with all the leading brands of champagnes. 
Burgundies, Rhine Wines, Beers, Scotch Whiskies, Mineral and Aerated Waters. 



ACCOMMODATIONS. — There are suites of apartments, as well as single and 
double rooms, enabling the guests to choose rooms to suit their means. The rooms 
are very lofty, thus insuring the maximum quantity of fresh air, while special 
attention has been paid to ventilation. 



ROOF GARDEN. — Covering the entire top of the building, is a very charming 
feature of this hotel. It is most artistically decorated with tropical foliage, and 
at night when illuminated with myriads of electric lights, it is a most ideal place 
to spend the evening hours. 



The jaded world's traveler will find this hotel by far the best in the 
Entire East, and one offering every comfort that he may require 

160 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



evening hours this park forms the recreation 

grounds for the entire European population, who 

stroll along its pleasant walks and listen to the 

Military Band. The Botanical Gardens, easily 

accessible at all times, rank with the best in the 

world, and are filled plen- 

teously with all kinds of 

plants, creepers and 

flowers. A zoo connected 

with the garden abounds 

with a great collection of 

animals from the Malay 

Peninsula. 

The City Hall, the Gothic 
Cathedral of Saint An- 
drews, the Roman Catholic 
Cathedral, the Hongkong 
& Shanghai Bank, Raffles 
Museum and Library are 
among the notable build- 
ings. 

Of all sights the street 
life proves the most fas- 
cinating to the W'esterner. 
The great array of turbans 
and sarongs give color to 
every thoroughfare, each 
street being a market filled 
with human models for an 
army of painters to por- 
tray, or sculptors to study; 
an emporium of living 
bronze statues. Japanese. 

Chinese, Siamese, ]\Ialays, Javanese, Burmese, 
Cingalese, Tamils, Sikhs, Parsees, Lascars, ^lala- 
bars, Hindoos and heathens of every cast, 
sprinkled now and then with a white-turbaned 



M.-\NAGER R.\FFLES 



European who has established law and order, 
and reared a thriving cosmopolitan city out of 
once impenetrable jungles. 

CAUTION. — Travelers with cameras, kodaks 
or photograph apparatus 
of any description will 
be astonished to note that 
the taking of pictures is 
strictly forbidden by the 
Government, which im- 
poses heavy fines and even 
imprisonment on anyone 
even seen with the kodak 
on their person. A special 
permit can be procured at 
considerable bother. An}^- 
one who has ever been in 
Singapore will carry away 
with him mental pictures 
sufficient to last him a life- 
time. 

After a pleasant drive in 
the evening, a visit to the 
native section of the city, 
when the twinkling cocoa- 
nut lamps cast a luring 
shadow over the strange 
scene, would be in order. 
A brief call at a Chines^ or 
Malay theatre will prove of 
HOTEL, SINGAPORE s. s. iyterest : then, if you wish 
to see the darker side of 
Oriental life and to gain a true knowledge of 
these strange folk, you should make a tour 
through the under-world, that has no equal aside 
from Bombay and Cairo. 




Johori 



SITUATED fourteen miles from Singapore, 
and reached by rail in less than one hour, is 
the pretty capital city of a semi-independent 
State occupying the southern extremit}' of the 
Malay Peninsula, covering an area of 6,850 
square miles. It is governed by a Sultan, and in 
former times, before the Dutch occupation, pos- 
sessed many of the adjacent islands, including 
Singapore. By a treaty concluded in 1885, the 
foreign affairs of Johore are now controlled by 
Great Britain. 

Johore is separated by a narrow strait from 
Singapore, and connected by ferry, which runs 
every hour to meet the trains from that place. 

The Sultan, who resides at Johore, is a great 
sportsman, engaging frequently in large game 
hunting, and with remarkable success. He main- 



tains a splendid little hotel here just expressly for 
the accommodation of foreign visitors. He owns 
several automobiles, a large racing stable, and 
supports a harem of no mean splendor. He is 
very fond of the pleasures of life and spends con- 
siderable time traveling about the popular resorts 
of Europe, making Paris his headquarters. 

The gambling saloons of Johore form the point 
of attraction for large numbers of Alalays and 
Chinese from all sections of the Malay States. 

By application to the hotel manager permission 
may be obtained to visit the Sultan's Armory, 
filled with beautiful weapons of Eastern and 
European manufacture, and housing the mag- 
nificent crown jewels and insignia, which are of 
unusual beauty. The gardens and fine mosque 
should also be visited. 



161 



HOTEL DE L'EUROPE 

Singapore, Straits Settlements 



ESTABLISHED HALF A CENTURY REBUILT DURING 1906 : SITUATION OVERLOOKING 

THE ESPLANADE : UNRIVALLED FACING THE SEA 




HOTEL DE L'EUROPE 



One Hundred Bedrooms with Bathrooms Attached 



MOST UP-TO-DATE SANITARY ARRANGEMENTS : ELECTRIC FANS IN EACH ROOM 
ELECTRIC LIGHT THROUGHOUT : ELECTRIC LIFTS 

A Telephone in Every Bedroom 

FRENCH CHEFS : FOREIGN LANGUAGES SPOKEN 



UJNDER ENTIRELY NEW MANAGEMENT 



ib2 



HOTEL DE LA PAIX 

3 Coleman Street, Singapore 

Telegraph Address: " Lapaix." Codes used: A. B.C. 4th and 5th Edition 



CLOSE TO TELEGRAPH, POST AND OTHER OFFICES :: RUNNERS MEET ALL STEAMERS 
ENGLISH, GERMAN, FRENCH AND DUTCH SPOKEN 



Lar^e 

Cool Rooms 

Comfortably 

Furnished 





This Hotel is 
Renowned for its 

Excellent 
Food and Wines 



Terms by day, week, or month H. KAHLCKE, Manager 



163 



MEDICAL HALL 

Singapore 
DEUTSCHE APOTHEKE 



opposite;;; THE general post office ■.■ German, french and Italian spoken 

OPEN till nine O'CLOCK EVERY EVENING 
BRANCHfMEDICAL OFFICE : CORNER OF BRASS BASAH ROAD AND NORTH BRIDGE ROAD 



TOILET SOAPS 

AND 
PERFUMERIES 



SHIPS' 

MEDICINE 

CHESTS 

SUPPLIED AND 

REFILLED 



_SUPPLIERS 
TO ""^ 



ESTATES AND 
"TTdSPITALS 




SOLE AGENTS 

FOR 

SERRAVALLO'S 

TONIC 



JAVOL 
HAIR WASH 



RICHTER'S 

ANCHOR 

PREPARATIONS 



LOCHER'S 

ANTINEON 



Prescriptions Carefully Executed 
Patent Medicines : English, French, German and American 

Invalid Requisites :: Surgical Instruments 
Spectacles, Pince=nez in Nickel, Gold and Electro Double 



164 



CALEDONIAN HOTEL 



77 BRAS BASAH ROAD 



NEAR THE ROMAN 
CATHOLIC CHURCH 



SINGAPORE 




THE ONLY BRITISH HOTEL IN SINGAPORE 

RECENTLY RENOVATED. BEAUTIFULLY DECORATED 

FORTY WELL-AIRED AND LOFTY BEDROOMS, WITH 
BATHROOMS attached to each, WITH SHOWER BATHS 

Spacious Billiard Room, with 6 New Tables, and full Equipments 

CUISINE — FIRST CLASS. Electric Bells in every Room 

Choicest Brands of WINES and SPIRITS. Telephone, etc 



TOiVl SARQEANT, Proprietor 



T. M. CONNOLLY, flanager 



165 



PURE WATER 

IS OF FIRST IMPORTANCE IN THE TROPICS 



ERASER & NEAVE'S 




AERATED 
WATERS 



Are ackiiowledged to be the 
best in the Straits Settle- 
ments and second to none 
in the East. 



They are manufactured un- 
der skilled European super- 
vision by the ver37- highest 
class machinery and from 
the best ingredients only. 





^. "■■ .-.-. O..M r 

y^. ' - '■'" •>■•"•.-? 

f "'• ••■'--1 »/ M,>i»*, , J 

^ ^' I»tt-tA »J*,^. I t,. ..*'»..! t^ 

^^ 4->> ► t*r •*-»*r«U ^ 

ry "•- '" •■' i< 




AGENCIES: Telok Anson, Seremban, Malacca, Deli, Bangkok, Kelantan, Saigon, Sandakan, 
Labuan, Kudat, Sarawak, Port Darwin, Western Australia. 

Factory: Head Office: 

Siak Street, Anson Road, Singapore Raffles' Quay, Singapore 

Branches: 
Argyle Street, Penang; Campbell Street, Kuala, Lumpur 



i66 



THE SEA VIEW HOTEL, 



TANJONG KATOIVG 
SIIVGAPORE 



'SINGAPORE'S RmERA" 



, WINES AND SPIRITS OF FIRST-CLASS QUALITY ONLY 

• MAGNIFICENT DINING-HALL ■ READING AND WRITING-ROOMS, ETC. 




WITHIN SOUND OF THE SILVERY SEA 



THE SEA VIEW HOTEL 

For many years there has been a constant call in Singapore 
for some place to which people could resort from the glare and 
bustle of the town, to enjoy a week-end amid the verdant groves 
which skirt our island shore. It is given to few of us to enjoy 
the privilege of having a permanent residence, from the verandas 
of which we can hear the lazy swish of the waves and feel the 
ozone-laden breezes about around us. 

The situation of the Hotel has the advantage of an excellent 
position. It stands on the seashore, in a lovely situation, em- 
bowered in a cocoanut grove, and fanned by the health-giving 
breezes from across the sea. 

The building is constructed with an eye to the provision of 
everything that goes to spell success and comfort in a tropical 
Hotel. All the rooms are open and airy, the verandas are 
spacious, and the general arrangement of the offices, lounges, gar- 
dens and promenades lack nothing for which the heart can wish. 

SINGAPORE'S RIVIERA 

The district of Tanjong and Katong, in which the new Hotel 
is situated, is perhaps the most salubrious on the island of 
Singapore. One fanciful scribe recently dubbed it Singapore's 
Riviera, and, in truth, it is not at all a bad description. This 
part^of the island is covered by a great cocoanut plantation. 
BEER GARDEN 

What a~picture of lazy enjoyment it conjures up — a long easy- 
chair, an|icy^cold, long-sleeved glass of Fass Beer at hand, the 



music of the Band, the moonlight glinting through the palm 
fronds, and the swish of the waves on the seashore, harmonizing 
all. Anon, "a pair of lovers steal away from the assembly to 
wander through the broad grounds and seek out some cozy 
corner, there to exchange sweet nothings to which none but the 
night bird or trees may hearken." 

BATHING=HOUSE 

Two six-roomed bathing-houses, one for ladies and one for 
gentlemen, are erected on the sea front and overhanging the 
water. Each room is supplied with dressing utensils, brush, 
comb, looking glass, etc., and also with fresh water for douching 
purposes when the bather has returned from his or her dip. 
Every room door will have a lock and key, and if the swimmer 
so chooses he or she may carry it into the water, "hung round 
the neck b^' a cord." The sea bathing is one of the chief delights 
of the place. "The bright, sparkling water invites one in for a 
dip and can hardly be resisted." 

SANATORIUM 

As a Sanatorium, the position selected for the new hotel is 
unrivalled in the isle. The air is very good, full of ozone and 
unsoiled. The water is excellent. The soil around and on the 
site is dry, and no mist is ever to be feared. Thirty acres are 
the smallest extent of the premises and this ensures remoteness 
of anything like native huts, etc. And above all, there is quiet 
at night and during the day, when quiet is needed. 



SPECIAL WEEK-END TARIFF : SPECIAL RICKSHA SERVICE : SPECIAL LAUNCH SERVICE : CLOSE TO THE TRAMWAYS 
CUISINE THE BEST : TELEaRA>lS, "SEA VIEW SINGAPORE" : TELEPHONES, BILLIARD=ROOrtlS, ETC. 



167 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



Straits Settlements 



Hk 


M 




h *^^ 


i, 1 1 1 *■ i 


^^^ 


1^— i..; 


rpF|w« 



SINGAPORE 



THE Straits Settlements, a crown colony of 
Great Britain, comprise some of the British 
possessions on the Malay Peninsula and a 
few of the adjacent islands, viz., Singapore, Ma- 



lacca, Bindings, Penang (or Prince of Wales 

Island), the Province of Wellesley, the Keeling 
Islands and Christmas Island. Total area, ex- 
clusive of Christmas Island and the Keeling 
group, is 1,542 square miles. The Governor is 
assisted by an executive council and a legislative 
council, composed of nine official and seven un- 
official members, five of the latter being nom- 
inated by the Crown and two by the chambers of 
commerce at Singapore and Penang, and con- 
firmed by the Crown. The Governor is also High 
Commissioner for the Federal Malay States and 
Borneo. 

The Straits Settlements are noted for their 
great cocoanut plantations, there being at present 
over 115,000 acres, of which more than half are 
in full bearing. 

There is now a great desire to plant rub- 
ber trees instead of the cocoanut, and many 
acres of the magnificent cocoanut trees are be- 
ing ruthlessly cut down to make way for the 
more profitable production of rubber. Rubber 
from the Straits Settlements demands the 
highest market price both in New York and 
London. 



PERHAPS nowhere else on earth, certainly 
not in the possessions of the United States 
or Great Britain, is there another island so 
charming as Java, which forms an important link 
in the chain of islands extending southeast from 
Asia. 

It seems scarcely credible that the Island of 
Java, so appropriately named the "Pearl of the 
Orient," should be so comparatively unknown, 
lying, as it does, within only sixty-two hours" 
travel by boat from Singapore, and the beaten 
track followed around the world. 

To the average American or Continental trav- 
eler the name Java conveys little or no meaning 
beyond that conveyed by the expression so often 
heard, "Oh, yes ; it is in the West Indies," or 
"You mean India, do you not?" Others will ask, 
"Is it not one of the islands of the Philippines?" 

During the past two years a considerable num- 
ber have visited Java, there being a marked in- 
crease of visitors, owing, possibly, to the fact 
that the "Royal Packet Company," operating 
several fine steaiiiers between Singapore and 
Java, has issued a very attractive and authentic 
guide, describing the interesting features of the 
island. 

Java has a most remarkable climate. Because 
of its close proximity to the equator, one would 



Java 

naturally believe that Java were hot and oppres- 
sive, yet such is not the case. Only the towns on 
the sea coast, such as Batavia, Samarang and 
Surabaya, are hot during the summer months. 




JIAL-'iY WOMAN 



168 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



but never oppressive like India and the Straits 
Settlements. The nights are always cool, caused 
by the balmy breezes that constantly sweep over 
the island from the sea. The interior of the 
island is hilly, possessing a cool and pleasant 
climate, and it is most remarkable at what low 
elevation the heat of the plains can be exchanged 
for the cool, refreshing atmosphere of the hills. 

From April to October is the most desirable 
time of the year in Java. During the rainy 
months the weather is rather unsettled, but owing 
to the porous nature of the ground, however, one 
can walk with comfort almost immediately after 
a fall of rain. The island possesses a wonderful 
charm and attraction for the tourist seeking 
perfect quiet and reposeful and dignified sur- 
roundings, tempered with just enough gaiety in 
the form of fishing, 
hunting wild game, 
riding", driving and 
rowing, etc. 

Health conditions are 
unexcelled by any 
other country in the 
same latitude. The 
water supply of the 
entire island is very 
pure^^a. remarkable 
fact for the tropics. 
There being no atmos- 
pheric conditions to 
contaminate the water, 
its purity is absolutely 
assured beyond ques- 
tion. The existing con- 
ditions are a surprise 
and wonder to stu- 
dents of tropical countres, as malaria and fever, 
so prevalent in warm climates, are seldom heard 
of. Every city and native village has stringent 
local laws which ensure perfect sanitation, and 
provide also against the likelihood of disease be- 
ing introduced from abroad. 

Nature has been most kind and exceedingly 
lavish in her gifts to these beautiful islands, 
which must be toured to be fully appreciated. 
Words are totally inadequate to convey to those 
who have never been there the actual charms of 
this enchanted land. 

Traveling by the German j\lail from either 
Europe or Japan, you will be able to transfer 
immediately at Singapore to one of the boats of 
the "Royal Packet Co.," which sail weekly be- 
tween Singapore and Batavia. The tourist will 
find these steamers perfect in every respect, 
having been constructed especially for tropical 




traffic. The cabins are large and airy, the saloon 
is most artistically decorated with carved wains- 
coting, while the sides are arranged with tile 
paintings of Holland scenes. The decks are wide 
and free from obstructions. The entire after deck 
is housed over with a permanent roof, making it 
the most comfortable section of the steamer, with 
its numerous padded lounges and easy chairs 
supplied with abundant cushions. The service 
is most excellent, rendered by native Malay boys, 
who are prompt, quiet and quick to anticipate 
your wants. The food supply is plentiful and 
excellent, a happy characteristic of both the Dutch 
and German passenger steamers. All liquors and 
perishable foods are kept on ice and preserved in 
cold storage. 

This short trip of sixty-two hours from Singa- 
pore insures wonderful 
pleasure, traveling al- 
ways amid the dififer- 
ent islands where the 
weather is never rough. 
On your right is the 
Island of Sumatra, 
clad in emerald verd- 
ure, resting beneath 
the serenest of skies ; 
not an angry wave has 
ever broken upon its 
peaceful shores. Small 
fishing craft, riding 
past on the crystal 
waves, appear as if 
they were hung in the 
air. For two days you 
glide along in sight of 
numerous islands, with 
just wind enough to soften the air into a bland 
and delightful temperature. Under just such 
conditions you will while away the day in lux- 
urious indolence, musing, with half-shut eyes, 
upon the quiet ocean. The nights are usually far 
more beautiful. The rising moon sends quiver- 
ing columns of silver along the undulating sur- 
face of the deep ; and, gradually climbing the 
heavens, illuminates the ship's path with a pale, 
mysterious light. And, as your great vessel 
throbs its way through this dreamy world, you 
recline upon a comfortable couch on deck, where 
you have retired for the night, dreaming a dream 
of perfection with eyes wide open, every part of 
it passing before j^ou in actual reality. Then, 
near the end of the journey, the South Sea Pearl, 
Java, breaks upon the horizon, appearing at first 
like mere summer clouds peering above the quiet 
ocean. 



J.W.ANESE BOYS 



169 



GRAND HOTEL JAVA ^a^.fv'^r.T.™ 



RIJSWIJK 



KONINQSPLEIN 




HOTEL FRONT 



Situated in the highest and healthiest section of the City. In close proximity to the railway stations' 
theatres, clubs, parks, etc. Trams leading to different parts of the City pass the door every ten minutes. 70 
rooms, 40 of which are equipped with private bathrooms. The only hotel in Java with bathrooms attached 
to bedrooms. Individual cottages where guests can enjoy perfect privacy. 




INDIVIDUAL COTTAGES 

A Livery stable with excellent carriages and horses. 

This hotel imports its wines and liquors, and has a most extensive wine cellar in connection. Wines 
from Bordeaux, Cognac, Cadiz. 

French, English, German and Dutch spoken. 

This Hotel was established in 1834, and is frequented by Officials of the Government, Planters, Travelers, 
Tourists and Foreigners. 



170 



From Occident to Orient and Around the Jf^orld 



Information Concerning Batavia, Java 

BATAVIA is the capital and chief city of the Dutch East Indies, situated on the north- 
east coast of the island of Java, in latitude 6° 7' S. and longitude 106° 50' E. It lies south- 
east from Singapore, the distance of 532 miles can be made in two days by excellent 
steamers. 

The first European settlement on the site of the present city was founded by the 
Governor-General, Pieter Both, in 1610. Originally only a factory, it became the chief com- 
mercial center of the East Indies, under the name of Jacatra, during the adminstration of 
the Governor-General, Coen (1618-1623), who removed his seat from the Moluccas to the new 
settlement and ei-ected some fortifications. During 1619 it was attacked by the joint forces 
of the kings of Bantam and Jacatra, assisted by the English, who were defeated after a siege 
of five months, by Governor-General Coen. Since that time the city has been known by its 
present name, and has grown rapidly, until at the present day it is the leading city of the 
Indies. 

CONVEYANCES. — There are two kinds of vehicles: the Victoria, usually drawn by two 
horses ; and the " Dos a dos," with one horse, which takes the place of the jinrikisha, so 
common throughout the East. The drivers are required to carry a printed tariff, but if it 
is not produced the follov^dng charges apply generally : For two persons, 50 cents to 60 cents 
per hour; 30 cents to 35 cents per half hour; 15 cents to 25 cents for fifteen minutes; with 
a minimum of 10 cents for a short distance. 

CURRENCY. — The money of the Dutch East Indies in general use is the guilder of 100 
cents, and is coined in the following denominations: 2.50, i.oo, .50, .25, .10, .05 pieces There 
are also the gold lo-guilder piece, and bank-notes issued by the banks of Java in various de- 
nominations. 

TRANSPORTATION. — A railroad from Batavia leads to many diiferent parts of the is- 
land; one line crossing the entire island to Surabaya. There is a direct mail service every 
fortnight to Amsterdam and Rotterdam via Genoa and Marseilles, with first-class accom- 
modations for passenger traific. 

The "Royal Packet Company " maintains a weekly service between Singapore, Batavia, 
Surabaya, Borneo, Sumatra, etc. 

HOTELS. — The hotels of Batavia are excellent, and include Hotel des Indes, Hotel der 
Nederlanden, The Grand Hotel de Java, the Hotel Wisse. The rates are very cheap and 
uniform all over the island. 

Note. — Tourists who expect to travel through the Dutch East Indies should immediately 
upon arrival at Batavia apply to their Consul for the necessary papers to travel through the 
island, as special permission must be procured. 

PHOTOGRAPHS AND MATERIAL.— The traveler wishing to procure a series of photo- 
graphs of the islands, characteristic of the people and scenery, should visit the studio of Mr. 
Het Centrum, near Hotel des Indies, in the upper town. He carries also an extensive supply 
of all kinds of photographic supplies. 

The illustrations of Java in this Guide were taken by Mr. Het Centrum. 

Several days should be devoted to Batavia to enjoy its places of interest, beautiful drives, 
and natural beauty spots. 



I 



Batavia 

N the harbor of Tandjong-Priok, through many gunboats, make this port their headquar- 
which you enter from the outer roadstead in ters, and their presence greatty adds to the at- 
reaching Batavia, you will notice great num- tractiveness of the harbor and are included among 
bers of ships constantly arriving and departing, your first impressions of the Netherlands, India, 
carrying large cargoes of crude sugar to the re- Your steamer will go alongside a broad, hand- 
fineries of either Hongkong or Europe ; others some stone dock, and as soon as the lines are 
are loading with coffee, teas and spices for made fast and the gang-plank is lowered, repre- 
different parts of the world. The Holland-Asiatic sentatives from the different hotels come on board 
squadron, consisting of several large cruisers and and you are earnestly advised to place your bag- 

171 



HOTEL DER NEDERLANDEN 

BATAVIA. JAVA 



The Hotel der Neder- 
landen is centrally located 
and the most picturesquely 
arranged and constructed 
Hotel in Java. 



Main building fronts Rijs- 
wijk, the principal prome- 
nade of the City, and its 
spacious grounds extend 
across the entire block, to 
Koningsplein, the recreation 
grounds of Batavia. 



Beautiful private drives 
and walks extend through 
the grounds. Also the 




HOTEL OFFICE 




Hotel has many private 
cottages within these 
grounds for use of its 
guests 



Ever)' room within the 
entire structure has all 
modem conveniences, while 
its cuisine is unexcelled. 



All languages spoken, and 
the Manager considers it no 
trouble to answer ques- 
tions which his guests may 
ask. 



PRICES MODERATE 



DINING-ROOM 



Telegraph Address 

"Merten-Weltevreden" 



Proprietor 

A. F. MERTEN 



172 i 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



gage in their hands, which relieves you of the 
Httle details necessary in passing the customs. 
The custom-house is located on the same dock at 
which you land, where the greatest courtesy will 
be shown you, the officers being obliging and 
anxious to accommodate. After clearing the cus- 
toms, which process never requires more than 
twenty minutes, you will be conveyed to your 
hotel in a motor car, or by train, a distance of 
five miles, traversing a road lined on both sides 
by beautiful shade-trees and tropical growth in- 
tercepted by small lakes and running streams. 



with large, well-ventilated rooms, spacious veran- 
das running in front, with comfortable chairs at 
your disposal. The rooms are comfortably fur- 
nished with large beds, surrounded with mos- 
quito nettings and those accessories that go to 
make one feel at home. Shower baths, electric 
lights and telephones are installed throughout. 

In my travels over the greater portion of this 
world it has been my lot on various occasions to 
dine at the table of nobility and partake of the 
delicacies prepared for its epicurean taste. Again, 
I have spent hours over a magnificently arranged 




MAMMOTH BANYAN TREE 
In yard of "Hotel des Indies," Eatavia, Java. 



HOTELS. — Batavia has been most fortunately 
favored, in fact, the entire Dutch East Indies, 
with the most comfortable hotels to be found in 
the Far Eastern country. The prices are very 
reasonable and of uniform scale, ranging from 
5, 6 or 7 guilders- per day, approximately $2, 
$2.40, $2.80 U. S. currency. 

In Batavia you will find three hotels of first 
importance, the "Hotel des Indies," "Hotel der 
Nederlanden" and the "Grand Hotel Java," all 
situated in the centre of the upper city in close 
proximity to banks, railway connections and 
principal places of interest. These hotels possess 
every accommodation and convenience for the 
pleasure of their guests. The buildings are 
specially designed and constructed for the tropics, 



dinner at Sherry's, in New York, and I have 
eaten at Tate's famous Cuisine, in San Francisco; 
but in all my wanderings through the marvelous 
Far East, where luxuries are most valued, I have 
never enjoyed more delicious meals than those 
offered at the hotels of Java. 

Elsewhere there may be a greater show of 
plate, though that item is not lacking here ; while 
whiter linen or more dainty, appetizing dishes 
than those served in these hotels could not be 
foimd in the world's wide range. 

Each one of these hotels mentioned is situated 
on extensive grounds, artistically laid out with 
drives, walks and shady corners, covered the year 
around with the choicest of tropical flowers and 
creepers. A very enjoyable feature of the hotels 



173 



HOTEL DES INDIES 

WELTEVREDEN 

District of Weltevreden, Batavia, Java 



A STRICTLY first-class Hotel in every respect, situated in the center of the upper town, 
Weltevreden. The Hotel is patronized by a class of people who seek the best procurable ; 
its beautiful grounds and buildings occupy a space of ten acres covered with hundreds of 
stately and imposing cocoanut trees, and a profusion of tropical plants and fiowers which unfail- 
ingly charm the weary traveler as he reclines in the cool and quiet surroundings of this veritable 
paradise. On the grounds of this Hotel stands one of the largest Banyan trees to be found in 
Java. 

HOTEL DES INDIES offers tourists and travelers excellent accommodations, it being 
provided with every appointment tending to make its guests comfortable and contented. The 
building is situated well back from the street in the quiet surroundings of its own grounds, a 
modern structure, accessible to the freshest of air from all quarters. Attentive servants trained 
by one who speaks their own language wait at your elbow eager to serve your slightest need. 



The Cuisine of this Hotel has a 
World-wide Reputation for Excellence 



The Hotel grounds are divided into two beautiful parks, in the center of one stands the 
office building, with its large lounging veranda, reading-room, writing-room and spacious dining- 
hall fitted with handsome Mission furniture. The other park contains the hotel annex, an old 
Patrician mansion, which in its day has been the residing place of celebrities from the New and 
Old Worlds. At one time this building was purchased especially for the temporar}^ residence 
of the Arch Duke of Austria; and for H. M., the King of Siam, Chulalongkorn, who occupied 
the building during his sojourn in Java. 

The sanitation of the Hotel is enhanced by the instalment of the most modern appliances, 
including various shower and plunge baths. The entire building is provided with electric lights, 
and electric bells; a telephone station is installed in every block. The Hotel des Indies is the 
largest in the Dutch East Indies, offering tourists at moderate prices the greatest comfort and 
excellence, combined with a perfect table and service. 

Hotel Agents meet all steamers and trains, taking charge of guests' baggage. Motor 'bus 
conveys passengers to and from steamship landings and trains. Motor cars and rubber-tired 
carriages for hire. 



J. M. GANTVOART, Manager 



174 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



are their private cottages, where you may occupy 
individual quarters amid a profusion of tropical 
evergreens, removed just far enough from the 
main building to make the comfort indescribable. 
No servants seem to be in sight — they move with 
bare feet — and everywhere you will find this same 
quiet courtesy, good cheer and loving attention; 
and you will find yourself repeating over and 
over, "Well ! well ! it is good to be here. What a 
beautiful world this is after all !"' 

RIDING AND DRIVING.— The roads 
which lead to all parts of the island are beautiful, 
and kept as smooth as a billiard table. Riding and., 
driving are indulged in to a great extent, and you 
will be able to procure a fine mount, or span to 
drive, from the stables of your hotel. During the 
evening hours there is nothing more charming 
than a spin around the Koning's 
Plein in one of the Batavian 
comfortable carriages, drawn by 
excellent horses. It is a pleasur- 
able experience to anyone, but 
possibly more appreciated b}- the 
tourist from the cold zone, who 
can thoroughly enjoy the balmy 
airs and wondrous charms of a 
tropical moonlight night, when 
the silverv shafts of illumination 
penetrate through the vegeta- 
tion and creepers that drape the 
sides of the driveway. A num- 
ber of motor cars were imported 
during the last year, and they 
are most enjoyable in making 
the tour into outlying districts. 

Batavia also has a thorough 
system of electric cars, and a 
good way to see the city is to 
take the car from your hotel. 
It is possible to encircle the city 
and return from where you 
started in one hour. 

SOCIAL LIFE. — Batavia has two magnifi- 
cent clubs, and the hospitality of their mem- 
bers is a Batavian byword. The "Harmonia," a 
civil club, is situated near the hotels, whose 
membership exceeds one hundred, consisting, 
for the greater part, of the opulent class of 
Europeans. It is a very imposing building with 
white and black marble floors, and the 
enormous marble columns throughout add great- 
ly to its appearance. Splendid billiard tables, 
reading rooms, library and refreshment parlors 
are installed. 

The "Concordia," a military club, situated near 
the "Waterloo Plein," has a very handsome 
building, surrounded by the usual spacious gar- 
den, and, until recently, was exclusively a mili- 
tary club ; but now civilians are admitted, and its 
membership is over the one-thousand mark. 



The social life of Batavia is greatly augmented 
by the presence of Holland officers stationed 
there. At the dances, afternoon teas, lawn fetes 
and public functions, the brilliant uniforms of 
these officers lend an added charm to the eye in 
conjunction with the light summer costumes of 
the women and the more sombre garb of the 
civilian. At the Government House festivities 
and the hotel "hops," the brass-buttoned and at- 
tractive uniforms are in great demand, and the 
feminine heart is indeed hard to soften that is not 
attracted by these well-set and well-groomed rep- 
resentatives of Holland's military forces. It is 
not infrequent for Great Britain's Asiatic squad- 
ron to make Batavia a call during the winter 
months, and the open hospitality of the Hollander 
is so well known that the naval officers are as- 
sured in advance of a thoroughly enjoyable visit. 




NATIVE SILVERSMITHS 
In Workshop of Messrs. Van Arcken S: Co. 

To gain access to either of these clubs it re- 
quires some member to bring about an introduc- 
tion. After that you will be able to spend here 
many enjoyable hours and have a fine opportunity 
of making the acquaintance of the residents, and 
thus learn a great deal of the countrj' that would 
otherwise remain unknown to you. 

The traveler visiting this mid-sea paradise will 
be surprised to note the many modern, up-to-date ' 
and well-stocked stores displaying all kinds of 
wares, housed in spacious buildings, with large 
plate-glass windows. The milliner)^ display is 
most elaborate, and ladies can procure the latest 
fashions only three weeks" removed from Am- 
sterdam and Paris. Large drug stores abound 
where soft drinks are served fully equal to those 
obtainable at home. 

The city boasts of four large banking concerns. 



175 




VAN ARCKEN & COMPANY 

JEWELERS, SILVERSMITHS : s : 
WATCHMAKERS AND ENGRAVERS 

TO THE COURT OF NETHERLANDS SINCE i S s 4 

BATAVIA SOURABAYA 



176 



TrnTTT— rrrsrr- 



r^' 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



INDUSTRIES. — The native silversmiths 
hammer out beautiful designs in silver relief for 
all kinds of ornaments and articles of use, ex- 
hibiting great dexterity and taste, considering the 
crude instruments with which the}' work. A visit 




VOLCANO. BROMO. JAV.A 

to the workshop of Messrs. A'an Arken & Co. 
must not be omitted. Here you can see the 
natives at work with more modern tools than in 
general use, the newer facilities having been in- 
troduced by this well-known firm. This house is 
the "Tiftany" of the East, having executed ex- 
tensive and valuable orders for the Royal House 
of Holland ( their Majesties having acknowledged 
the superior workmanship in the form of 
awards), various sultans, rajahs, kings, etc., of 
the East. They act, since 1861, as court jewelers 
to their Majesties the Emperor of Surakarta, 
Java, and the Sulton of Djokjakarta, Java. Al- 
though the manufacture cannot compete with 
European products, their gold and silverware 
bear a peculiar stamp and excel in beautiful 
finish. The visitor should by all means view the 
unique display in jewelry. 



displayed in France and Ecuador, whence the 
Panama emanates, is not so much in evidence in 
Tava. but no stretch of imagination is required 
for the assertion that it takes an expert to tell 
the diiference between a Java hat and the genuine 
article. The proof of this rests with the Euro- 
pean market, from where many more orders have 
proceeded than can be filled. 

The palm from which these hats are made 
grows freely in low marshy places, no special 
care being necessary in watching their growth. 
The shoots are abundant and reproductive over 
a period of years. After removing several of 
the outer folds from each side of the shoot, and 
generall}' about the same number from the centre, 
the edges of the leaves are separated with a flat 
instrument or large needle. The hard substance 
or bone having been separated, it is cut off as 
refuse. The straws are then placed in a vessel 
of boiling water over a fire, great precaution 
being exercised so as not to push them in indis- 
criminately. The straws are completely covered 
by water and allowed to remain boiling from ten 
to fifteen minutes. Upon being removed the straw 




BOTANTCAL GARDENS, EUITENZORG 



JAVA HATS. — A very important and profit- 
able industry is the manufacture of the Java hat. 
one which in a very short period will be a rival 
in the world's market against the expensive 
Panama. As vet the same degree of daintv skill 



is well shaken and hung up to dry for a short 
time ; then the blades are separated and sus- 
pended for twenty-four hours on a line in the 
open air, so as to dry and curl into strands. 
It should be explained that after the straw has 



177 



Nederlandsch - Indische 
Handelsbank 



(NETHERLANDS-INDIA COMMERCIAL BANK) 



ESTABLISHED 1863 



Paid up Capital f. 10,000,000 Reserve Fund f. 2,000,000 



'T^TLTT^ "D A '^[IT" Buys, sells and receives for collection 
1 ri.lL DrVl^ JV i^-jig Qf exchange on all these places. 

Issues letters of credit on its Branches and correspondents 
in the East, Europe, America, Australia and Africa. 

Discounts promissory-notes, opens loan accounts on ap- 
proved security, and transacts different sorts of Banking 
Business. 



Head Office: Amsterdam Sub-Office : The Ha^ue 

HOLLAND 

Branches: j ^^-^t n'c^ W E ^^^ I ^^VA 

Agencies: sourabaia, samarang, indramajoe, bandoeng, JAVA 

SINGAPORE HONGKONG 

BANKERS: 

LONDON— Williams Deacons Bank, Swiss Bank Yerein 

PARIS — Comptoire National d'Escompte de Paris 

BERLIN— Deutsche Bank NEW YORK— Bank of Montreal 

CALCUTTA— National Bank of India, Ltd. 

^78 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



been properly cured, selections must be made for 
the particular quality of hat required, so that no 
well-made hat contains two quantities or grades 
of straw. During the process of plaiting the 
straw is kept damp to render it more pliable. The 
Panamas, like the finer hats made in the Tablas 
district of the Philippines, are plaited under 
water. When finished the hats are placed on a 
smooth board and manipulated with a smooth 
glass rubber. They are then plunged into clear, 
fresh water, removed, and while wet put on 
blocks for shipping, thence remaining in the sun 
to dry, after which they are ready for export or 
immediate use. To make a common hat it re- 
quires two days, and for a finer quality five or 
six days, while hats have been manufactured that 
required sixty to sevent}- days' labor, weaving 
entirely under water. 

ACROSS THE ISLAND.— From Batavia it 
is possible to traverse the entire island by rail, 
and branch lines lead to all the important coast 
districts. To the traveler who is not rushed for 
time, and not trying to see how much of the 



globe he can cover in the least space of time : who 
has a desire to see as much of the world as 
possible, there is no place which affords a pleas- 
anter or more interesting trip than across the 
Island of Java, spending a few days at each 
point of note. 

A very comfortable way to cross the island is 
by carriage, or on horseback, thus enabling you 
to see much of the beauty that would escape you 
from a car window, such as its rugged moun- 
tains, crystal streams, volcanoes and ancient Hin- 
doo ruins, possibly the most interesting in the 
world. 

The mountains of Java are of volcanic origin, 
as are, in fact, the entire Dutch East Indies ; and 
in crossing Java alone you will see not less than 
one hundred active volcanoes, steaming caverns 
and hot springs, indicating that those primeval 
fires are still smouldering not far beneath your 
feet. Several of the volcanoes can be closely 
visited and even entered, if you are of an ad- 
venturesome spirit, among such being Bromo, in 
the Tengger Mountains, the Papandajan and 
Kawa ^lanoek, near Garoet. 



Buite 



ONLY about one and one-half hours from 
Batavia, Buitenzorg will be your first stop, 
and a few days can easily be spent in visit- 
ing the points surrounding this mountain resort. 
There are several ho- 
tels oft'ering perfect 
comfort. Buitenzorg 
is tlie pride and show- 
place of Java. The 
Governor-Ge n e r a 1' s 
palace, as well as the 
homes of man}- of the 
higher officials, wealthy 
merchants and bankers 
of Batavia, are located 
here. 

The Botanical Gar- 
dens at Buitenzorg are 
conceded to be the best 
scientific tropical gar- 
dens in the world, and 
without a doubt the 
most beautiful. Ad- 
joining the Botanical 
Gardens, which may be 
said to entirely sur- 
round the Governor's 
Palace, is a beautiful 
park where hundreds 
of deer in a semi-wild 
state dart to and fro. 

These wonderful gardens are the horticultural 
study-grounds for the nations of the earth, who 
annually send their representatives there to in- 



nzorg 

crease their knowledge of botany. When enter- 
ing this fairyland you must pass through the 
finest avenue of canary trees in existence, tower- 
ing seventy-five to one hundred feet high with- 
out a branch, then 
forming a green, glist- 
ening arch overhead. 
The s y m m e t r i cally 
straight trunks of these 
trees are covered with 
drooping ferns, creep- 
ers and palm-leafed 
plants, blooming or- 
chids, and, in short, 
every known tropical 
plant with a tendency 
to climb is confined 
within these gardens. 

There is a lake 
covered with lotus and 
Victoria regia, far sur- 
passing anything of 
their kind seen in 
Japan or elsewhere. 
The "morning glory" 
is abundant every- 
where, and its purple 
flowers, two or three 
inches in diameter, 
bloom in profusion the 
entire year. 
One of the most universall}' spread over the 
island seems to be the life plant, which is a great 
curiosity ; every old wall or rocky road margin 




ENTR.-\NCE BOTANICAL GARDENS, BUITENZORG 



179 



NETHERLANDS TRADING 

SOCIETY 



Capital Paia up, F^s^ooo.ooo Reserve Fund, F 5.000,000 



NETHERLAKW CURRENCY 



Grant Drafts and Issue Letters 
of Credit on all their Branches 
and Correspondents in the East, 
on the Continent, Great Britain, 
America and AustraHa, and 
transact banking business of 
every description 




Head Office, AMSTERDAM Factory, BATAVIA 

AGENCIES 

SAMARANG SOURABAYA SINGAPORE HONGKONG SHANGHAI 

Sub-Agencies: RANGOON, PENANG, PADANG, KOTA, RADJA, TELAK, SEMAWE, MEDAN, 
PALEMBANG, BANDJERMASIN, MAKASSER, CHERIBON, TEGAL, PEKALONGAN, 

PASOEROEAN and TJILATJAP 



180 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



is literally covered with its large, fleshy leaves, 
which make the plant conspicuous, and its pendu- 
lous flowers of a greenish purple color, of a 
bladder-like formation, on stalks of from ten to 
twenty inches high, at once attract attention. 
The alligator pear, also called avocado pear, 
grows on a handsome, sturdy tree, attaining a 
height of from twenty to thirty feet, and its 
foliage is very show}'. 

Bamboo is seen here growing in clumps and 
thickets never before witnessed, ranging from 
the fine, feathery-leafed canes, that are really 
only tall grasses, up to towering" giants, whose 
stems are more like great trunks soaring to a 
hundred feet into the air, forming a canopy like 
of ostrich feathers over your head. The visitor 
to these Botanical Gardens will possibly hear of 
the rapid growth of the bamboo, but will hardly 
give credence to the reports in circulation ; but 
the records of the Director's office will relieve 
any doubt, for it has been known that the bamboo 
has lengthened an inch or even more in one hour. 

There is so vast a variety of plants and trees 
too innumerable to give a list of more than a 
few of the more important kinds, as the ban3ran 
tree, fan palm, mahogany, the papaw (or carica 
papaya), which bears that delicious fruit re- 
sembling almost exactly the musk melon, but in- 
stead of on a vine it grows high up on a tree. 
It will be a novel experience for you (especially 
if from Connecticut ) to find nutmegs lying as 
thick as acorns on the ground, and, breaking 
their green outer shell, to see the fine coral veins 



enveloping the dark kernel. It is a deHght to 
see mangosteens and rambutans g-rowing; to 
find bread-, sausage- and candle-like fruit hang- 




ing in plenty from benevolent trees, and other 
fruits and strange flowers springing from a tree 
trunk instead of from its branches. 



Djokjakarta 



Is situated in the section known as Mid Java 
and forms the capital of one of the two re- 
maining semi-independent kingdoms of Java. 
Here native princes still rule and maintain their 
elaborate courts and well-kept grounds, with 
state elephants, all so characteristic of Oriental 
splendor. By special permission from the Euro- 
pean advisor you may be presented to His High- 
ness the Sulton of Djokjakarta. 

The "Kraton," a walled enclosure of more than 
four miles in circumference, is filled with many 
buildings, streets, gardens and lakes, and houses 
some 20,000 people, who all belong to the retinue 
of the court. Entering by a broad opening 
through the north wall you find yourself on the 
great Aloon-Aloon, and have on your left the 
tiger cages, on your right the mosque, the court 
of justice and the royal stables. In order to get 
to the Sultan's residence you pass through two 
gates and enter the gilded pendopp, the spacious 
dining-hall, with accommodation for 600 guests. 
The yellow house, residence of the prince, oppo- 
site to which stands the house of his first lawful 
wife ; the house of the Resident when he stays in 
the Kraton, the dwellings of the concubines and 



181 



of the native soldiers, the stables of the elephants, 
all completely fill this enclosure. A visit should 
be made to the Water Castle, reached in thirty 
minutes by carriage ; fare 3 guilders. 

HINDOO TEMPLES.— Djokjakarta is the 

most convenient base from which to visit Boro- 
boedoer and Prambanan temples, the most re- 
markable of all architectural ruins in the world, 
which date from the time of the Hindoo King- 
dom of Modjopahit. 

Boroboedoer (or Bara-Budur) lies a little to 
the west of the right bank of the Praga, which 
falls into the Indian Ocean. A hill, rising above 
the plain 154 feet, afifords a ready site for the 
structure, and the lava blocks with which the 
ground was strewn supplied abundance of ma- 
terial. The accompanying illustration will con- 
vey some idea of the arrangement and general 
efifect of the temple. A square terrace, each side 
497 feet long, encloses the hill at a height of fifty 
feet ; five feet above this there rises a second ter- 
race, each side-365 feet ; eleven feet higher comes 
a third terrace of similar shape, and then follows 
four other ramparts and four other terraces. The 



ESTABLISHED 1857 



Ncdcrlandscli-Indlsclie Escompto 



Maatschapplj 



HEAD OFFICE, = = BATAVIA 



Bills of Exchange Negociated and Collected 

Telegraphic Transfers 

Letters of Credit and Circular Notes Issued 

Deposits Received 

Account-Currents Opened under Bonification of Interest 

Purchase and Sale of Bonds and Shares Undertaken 

General Banking Business Transacted 



BRANCHES 

Amsterdam 5ourabaya Samarang Weltevreden Bandoeng 
Padang Cheribon Tandjong=Priok Penang 

182 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



whole structure is crowned by a cupola fifty-two 
feet in diameter, surrounded by sixteen smaller 
bell-shaped cupolas. It is suggestive of the rich- 
ness of the style to mention that on the outside 
of the wall of the second enceinte there are 104 
niches, each typifying some part of the life of 
Buddha by an image on a lotus throne, hewn out 
of a single block five feet high, and between the 



On the Dieng Plateau in Bagelen, where may 
be seen the oldest known Javanese inscription, 
there exists a remarkable group of temples. They 
stand 6,500 feet above the sea, and roads and 
stairways lead up from the lowlands of Bagelen 
and Pekalongan. The stairway between Lake 
Mendjer and Lake Tjebong alone consists of 
upwards of 4,700 steps. On this plateau it is 




RUINS OF BORO-BOEDOER, JAVA 



niches are sitting figures, a man and a woman, 
alternately. The inside of the same enceinte is 
even more richly adorned with at least 568 bas- 
reliefs, representing scenes of the Buddha 
legends. Of the chronological date of the temple 
there is no certain knowledge, but in itself there 
exists enough evidence to fix its position in the 
historical movement of the Hindoo creeds. 



thought there formerly stood a holy city — the 
"Benares" of the archipelago. 

Of the minor antiquities found in Java the 
most valuable are the inscriptions on stone and 
copper, though, owing to the variety of char- 
acters employed, the task of deciphering and in- 
terpreting is exceedingly difficult. 



Surabaya or Soerabaja 



THE second city of Java, though the prin- 
cipal one from a mercantile standpoint, is 
the capital of the Residency of the same 
name and headquarters of the military authorities 
of East Java. There are four splendid hotels, 
equal in appointment to any of those you have 
patronized in other cities of the island. 

From here it is possible to take the steamer of 
the Royal Packet Company going along the coast 



of the various islands, and return to Singapore 
via one of the most fascinating routes of your 
itinerary of the tour around the world. 

GOVERNMENT. — "Java and Madura," 
with the surrounding islets included in the same 
administration, is divided into twenty-three resi- 
dencies, under the control of a Governor-General, 
who has great executive and even a certain 



183 



Telegrams- 

"SARKIES," PENANG 



THE HOTEL IS TO UNDERGO 
THOROUGH ALTERATIONS 



For Comfort, Cleanliness and a Health Resort 



IN 



PENANG 



GO TO THE 



EASTERN AND ORIENTAL 

HOTEL 



Absolutely the Best in the Island 



CHARMING SEA VIEW BEAUTIFUL SPOT 

EVERY HOME COMFORT 



GOOD TABLE 



^able Codes for the use of Intended Visitors to Raffles Hotel, E. & 0. Hotel and Strand Hotel . 



BUNCH: Wire if you have any vacant 
rooms and how many 

BUGBEAR: Reserve one single room 
for 

BUGGY: Reserve two single rooms for. . 

BUGLEHORN: Reserve three single 
rooms for 

BUGLER: Reserve four single rooms for 

BUILDING: Reserve five single rooms 

for 

BULBOUS: Reserve six single rooms 

for 

BULGED: Reserve one double room 

for 



BULIMY: Reserve two double rooms 
for 

BULKINESS: Reserve three double 
rooms for 

BULLACE: Reserve four double rooms 
for 

BULLCALF: Reserve five double rooms 
for 

BULLDOG: Reserve six double rooms 
for 

BULLETIN: Reserve a single and a 
double room for 

BULLFINCH: Reserve two double and a 
single room for 



BULLFROG: Reserve three double and 
a single room for 

BULLIRAG: Reserve a double room with 
two beds for. ..... 

BULLOCK: Reserve two double rooms 
adjoining for 

BULLTROUT: Reserve two single rooms 
adjoining for 

BUMPER: Have a single horse and car- 
riage waiting at the wharf 
for 

BUMKIN; Have a carriage and pair wait- 
ing at the wharf for 

BUMPTIOUS: Runner to look after Bag- 
gage. 



SARKIES BROTHERS, Proprietors 



184 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



amount of legislative power. Fie is assisted by a 
council of five, whose functions are legislative 
and advisory. In each province there is also a 
resident, assisted by assistant residents and sub- 
ordinate officers called controllers. Nevertheless, 
the administration, so far as the Javanese see it, 
is carried on through a network of native officials, 
to whom the foreign rulers are "elder brothers." 
There is daily conference between the Dutch and 
native chiefs, and in all matters between them the 
Javanese language is used, Dutch not being al- 
lowed to be spoken. Each resident exercises 
judicial, financial and administrative functions, 
dealing with civil and criminal cases. To each 
assistant resident there is an afdeeling or depart- 
ment. The controller is really the link between 
the native and foreign officers. He makes a 
personal inspection of his districts every month, 
having supervision of everything — observing, ad- 
vising and reporting — but with little executive 
authority. Out of the ancient noble families a 
native regent is appointed, whose rank and right 
of precedence is superior even to that of all 
other European officers except the Resident. He 
is the head of the native officials in his province 
and receives a salary of 2,000 to 3,000 florins ; 
but in one or two cases, e. g., the Sultan of Jokjo 
and the Regent of Bandong, the allowance is 
84,000 florins. 

The residents number twenty-three, assistant 
residents seventy-three, controllers one hundred 
and aspirant controllers forty-eight. The resi- 



dents and controllers are appointed only after a 
searching examination in the Javanese language, 
customs and conditions. 

Returning to Singapore once more )'ou will 




JAV.\XESE GIRL 



transfer at once to the mail steamer of 
"British India Steamship Co." en route 
Penang, Rangoon and Calcutta. 



the 

for 



Island of Penang 



THIS island belongs to the British Straits 
Settlements, with an area of lo^ square 
miles and situated off the west coast of the 
Malay Peninsula, at the northern entrance to 
A'lalacca Straits. The island, though still largelv 
covered with jungle, is of great commercial im- 
portance. Picturesc[ue George Town, the capital 
and principal settlement, is situated at the north- 
east extremity of the island. 



A 



line of electric cars runs throughout the 



settlement, and a cable tram mounts to the sum- 
mit of Penang Hill, at the back of the settlement. 
There is an excellent hotel on the hill, at an ele- 
vation of about 2,000 feet, and a second one in 
course of erection at the terminus of the cable 
tram. 

In the town itself, within a few moments' walk 
from the landing dock, is the Eastern & Oriental 
Hotel. Penang Hill is naturally a favorite resort 
of the coastland residents, who seek there a cooler 
atmosphere ; but to the traveler the island offers 
no great inducement for a prolonged stay. This 
little wav station owes much to its fine harbor. 



It has a population of about 200,000, including 
only about 1,200 Europeans. 

The name "Penang" is derived from the fact 
that the chief product of the place is the betel nut, 
so universally chewed by the natives of the East ; 
and ere this time you will have become very fa- 
miliar with its use and peculiar odor. The annual 
trade of Penang aggregates $120,000,000 Mex., 
and is divided nearly equally between imports 
and exports. The number- of ships that enter 
and clear annually averages about 5,500, with an 
average tonnage of 4,000,000. 

While Penang boasts no particular attractions, 
it afifords a base from which to make visits to the 
surrovmding country, the mainland of the Malay 
Peninsula and the Island of Sumatra. 

A Dutch line of steamers operates between 
Penang along the coast of Sumatra to^Batavia, 
and the Norddeutscher Lloyd keeps up a regular 
communication. 

Penang is the premier tin port, and over two- 
thirds of the world's supply passes through the 
port on its way to the markets. 



INTERNATIONAL HOTEL 



No. 2 Leith Street 



Penan^, Prince of Wales Island 



Telephone No. 287 



This charming little hotel is a first-class establish- 
ment in every respect, offering excellent accommo- 
dation to the tourist and traveler who wish a quiet, 
homelike place. This hotel is entirely under Euro- 
pean management. 

The building is electrically lighted throughout, 
with an electric fan in every bedroom. The dining- 
room, also equipped with ceiling fans, and decorated 
with palms and ferns, is constantly cool and 
pleasant. 




The hTEi^riflTioriRL >/oTel 



ENTRANCE 





There are several private!' dining-rooms, suitable 
for private dinners, banquets^or weddings. 

The choicest wines, beers, mineral and aerated 
waters constantly on hand. 

Each bedroom has its own bath attached. 

CHARGES MODERATE 



LEiTH Sn?EET Me 2 Tejpb Nsas?^ 



i86 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



Information Concerning Rangoon 

IT is the capital of Burma, India. Situated 25 miles from the sea, on the Rangoon River, 
just above its junction with the Pegu River in latitude 16° 42' N., longitude 96° 13' E. 

The city was rebuilt by Alompra in 1755; the British captured it in 1824, but it was 
retaken by the Burmese. The British again took possession in 1852 and have retained con- 
trol ever since. 

Population, in 1901, 234,881. 

HOTELS. — Travelers due to arrive at Rangoon between October and April should wire 
ahead for rooms, otherwise they may not be able to get accommodations. 

The STRAND HOTEL on Strand Road, facing the river, occupies the best position, and 
is usually crowded throughout the season. 

The ROYAL HOTEL on Merchant Street, five minutes from the landing jetties, was built 
in 1905. 

The Allendale and Croton Lodge are boarding-houses recommended to travelers who pre- 
fer to live out of town. The charges are moderate, and the surroundings of both houses are 
healthful and picturesque. 

TRANSPORTATION.— The steamers of the Irrawaddy Flotilla Company run as far 
north as Bhamo, 900 miles from the mouth of the river. The company has launched many 
new steamers during recent years, and are continually improving their passenger serv- 
ices ; these steamers are most comfortable, and afford the best means of seeing the country 
and people. 

The Bibby Line of steamers maintains a fortnightly direct service between England and 
Rangoon, and vice versa. Only saloon passengers are carried. These steamers sail from Liv- 
erpool, and call at Marseilles, Port Said, and Colombo, and have been built specially for the 
Eastern passenger service, furnished throughout with electric light and fans. A qualified doc- 
tor and stewardess are carried. Special tourist rates are granted between Colombo and Ran- 
goon, and vice versa. 

P. Henderson Line maintains a fortnightly service in each direction, sailing outward from 
Liverpool and calling at Port Said. 

Norddeutscher Lloyd Steamship Company quote special through rates to and from Ran- 
goon, via Penang, and via Colombo. 

British India Steam Navigation Company maintain a weekly communication between 
Burma, India, and Singapore. 

Agents for all the above lines at Rangoon are Thomas Cook & Sons. 

PLACES OF INTEREST. 

Cantonment Gardens and Shwe Dagon The Sula and Botataung Pagodas 

Paya Agri-Horticultural Society's Gardens 

Royal Lake and Dalhousie Park Bazaar on Dalhousie Street 

Victoria Lake, Kokine Hirst's Pagoda carving shop on Barr Street 
Timber yards at Ahlone, to see the ele- side, Fytche Square 

phants at work 

RAIL COMMUNICATIONS.— There is a total length of railway in Burma of 1353 miles. 
The traveler can go to Mandalay either by rail or boat. 



Rangoon 



THE capital and chief port of Burma, on the straight streets crossing at right angles, extends 
Rangoon River, the eastern branch of the for over a mile along the river front and three- 
Irrawaddy, about twenty-five miles from quarters of a mile inland, 
the sea, Rangoon, is finely situated for internal The European buildings include the Govern- 
as well as foreign commerce, having a continuous ment house, the court-house, post- and telegraph- 
water communication with the vast region on offices, cathedral, college museum, library and 
the Irrawaddy. The town, well laid out with hospital. Other notable features are the native 

187 



STRAND HOTEL 

RANGOON 



THE PREMIER HOTEL IN BURMA 




Under the patronage of His Honour Sir Hugh Barnes, 
K.C.S.I., K.C.V.O., Lieut. Governor of Burma. 

FACING THE RIVER. :: ALL COMFORTS. 

Cuisine under the supervision of a London Savoy chef. 

Electric lights, bells and fans. :: Latest sanitation. 

BRANCHES: Raffles Hotel, - - - Singapore. 
Crag Hotel Sanitorium, Penang Hills. 
Eastern and Oriental Hotel, Penang. 

TELEGRAMS: "SARKIES," RANGOON. 




SARKIES BROTHERS. Proprietors 



iSS 



From Occident to Orient and Around the IV arid 



bazaars, Dalhousie Park and several lakes in the 
vicinity. Street rail\va3's give access to all the 
principal points. The chief industrial establish- 
ments are the lumber, rice and oil mills, and 
numerous factories for silk and cotton goods, 
fats, pottery, salts and fish paste. The river front 
is lined with wharves, and two-thirds of the value 
of exports of Burma are shipped from, and al- 
most all the imports are received at this port, t\v 
third in importance of British India. 

The principal exports are te'^k and rice : the 
imports include cotton, cutlery, petroleum, harc!- 
ware, liquors, wines, silks and woolens and raw 
silk. 

When the traveler on the trail around the 
world reaches Burma, he is at the starting point 
"On the Road to ]\Iandalay." Burma is political- 
ly a province of India, yet different from it. At 
Rangoon you will be impressed by the cheerful- 
ness of the people in every-day life, and their at- 
tractive dress of so many varied colors. They 
bedeck themselves with a profusion of flowers 
and all kinds of gaudy jewelry, while amusement 
seems to be the chief end of existence to these 
childlike people. 

SHWE DAGON PAYA is the most cele- 
brated shrine of the entire Buddhist world, on 
account of the great sanctity of its relics, and it 
is the largest of the thousands of ])agodas to be 
found throughout the country. Countless pil- 
grims from all parts of the Last visit the pagoda 
every year, all bringing gift«, so that its wealth 
almost equals its sanctity. It is said to have been 
founded 588 B. C, and is undoubtedlj' of great 
antiquity. Raised upon a platform or terrace 
nearly 170 feet high, 900 feet long by 680 feet 
wide, the Shwe Dagon Paya. like most of the 
other numerous pagodas to be found throughout 
Burma, in shape resembles a huge cohmm or 
cone, very wide at the base (no less than 1,350 
feet in circumference ) , tapering rapidly in a 
bell-like figure to a circular column, the entire 
height being 317 feet. This huge structure is 
composed of solid masonry, brick, stone and 
cement, the top being surmounted by an iron 
spire, or ti, bearing a crown of gems estimated to 
be worth at least $250,000. The pagoda is gilded 
from base to spire, and its gigantic yet graceful 
form, towering above all its surroundings, can be 
seen many miles glittering brightly in the sun- 
light ; or, with a paler beauty, shining in the 
silvery moonlight of the tropics. The column is 
bound at frequent intervals by iron bands, from 
each of which are suspended bells of gold, silver 
and bronze. As these bells are swayed by the 
wind, a musical peal is heard below with delight- 
ful effect. 

The great terrace upon which the Shwe Dagon 
Paya stands is reached by flights of stairs, cov- 
ered by handsomely carved teak-wood roofs, 
supported by stone or wooden columns. En- 



trance to the pagoda is gained through four 
arched wings, or chapels of fantastic design, 
adorned by curious and elaborate carvings and 
sculpturings. In each chapel is a colossal sitting 
figure of Buddha and hundreds of smaller 
images. Upon the terrace surrounding the pa- 
goda are many smaller temples and shrines, 
picturesque and quaint structures, beautifully 
carved and decorated. Interspersed among them 
are images of Buddha decked with flowers, flags, 
candles and even dolls, the offerings and gifts of 
devoted pilgrims, thousands of whom throng the 
sacred precincts both day and night, and religious 
processions arrive and depart almost continu- 
ously. At night these throngs, with their torches 
and lighted candles, are a most weird spectacle. 




189 



SHWE DAGON, PAGODA 

By day the crowds are a curious and picturesque 
sight. 

Buddhists from every country in the East, in 
native costume, mingle with the brightly-dressed 
Burmese Buddhist priests in yellow robes and 
shaven heads, and jostle against cripples and in- 
valids brought by pious friends in the hope of 
obtaining relief at this most sacred shrine. Hun- 
dreds of gongs and bells are hung up in front of 
shrines and images and constantly struck by 
worshippers. Upon this wonderful terrace is 
located the thircl largest bell in the world, a 
monster of some forty-two tons weight. At the 
foot of the ascent to the platform are huge figures 




VISITORS to BURMAH 

ARE ADVISED NOT TO LEAVE 
WITHOUT CALLING AT 

J. Whitfield 
Hirst's 




SOOLAY PAGODA 



SHWEDAGOX I'AGODA 



THE PAGODA CARVING SHOP 
No. 6 Barr Street, Fytche Square, Rangoon 



Manufacturer of 
Wood Carvings 
Ivory Carvings 
Art-Silverware 
Burmese Silks 
Hand Painted Silk 
Centerpieces and 

Doyleys 
Gold Lacquer Ware 
Pagan Lacquer 

Ware 
and all other arts 
and manufac- 
tures of 
the province of 

BuRMAH 




A CORNER OF HIRST'S SHOW ROOM 



Dealer in 

Cameras 

Chemicals 

Plates 

Papers, Films and 
other Photo- 
graphic Goods 

Amateurs' work by 
Experienced 
Artists 

Views of Burmah 
Characters, etc. 

Studio 
No, 4VoyleRoad 
Cantonments 



Collector of Ancient 
Ancient Buddhas, etc 
extant. Curios, old 


Weapons, Ancient Manuscripts 

The largest sale collection 

and new. Special Ivory Work 




GOODS SHIPPED TO ALL PARTS OF THE 
WORLD :: PERSONAL ATTENTION BY 

J. Whitfield Hirst 

(The Only British Name in the Trade) 



CANTONMENT GARDENS 



MY WORK IS 
MY PRICES ARE 



THE BEST 
THE LOWEST 




KOKINE PAGODA 



190 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



of strange animals made of plaster-covered brick. 
There are few places on earth that present to 
the visitor a stranger picture than the Shwe 
Dagon Paya. 




BURMESE GIRL 



Once at Rangoon you must not neglect visiting 
the teak yards, where the elephants are engaged 
in piling logs and lumber. Surely this affords 



a great opportunity to study animal life, to see 
the huge beast go on his knees in the mud and 
dig out an enormous log thirty to forty feet in 
length, and, recovering himself, balance it care- 
fully on his tusks, advance carefully over the 
sludge and climb the timber stack. The elephant 
drags the huge logs over the mud, squealing 
loudly with disgust when the weight calls for a 
great effort of strength, for the elephant likes 
work little more than does the lazy Burman. 
They pile logs one on top of the other, dragging 
the heavy baulks by chains held in their twisted 
trunks, squaring the pile with the precision of an 
expert "deal runner." They butt logs along, 
using their weight as cleverly as an athlete. Two 
elephants working together, carrying a huge 
baulk of timber between them, show the trained 
beasts at their best. Some people who have had 
much experience with elephants say they are 
stupid beasts and their intelligence has been very 
much overrated, as direction entirely comes from 
the "mahout" ; but the "mahout" in the timber 
yards does not bestride the animal's neck, where 
a certain amount of leg pressure might be 
brought to play. He sits on a small, padded 
framework on the back, and his only stimuli are 
baby taps with the heel and an occasional prod 
with the ankus. Can an}' animal which translates 
these signals, as does a clever elephant, be re- 
garded as unintelligent? 

A very interesting trip may be made from 
Rangoon to JXIandalay by rail and return by river 
boat, requiring about five days' time. 



THE largest and easternmost province of 
British India, is included within the paral- 
lels of io° and 28° N., and the meridians 
92° and 101° E., and extends from the southern 
borders of Tibet far down into the Malay Penin- 
sula, with a total length of 1,250 miles. The 
eastern boundary of Burma follows a meridian 
approximately the same throughout the whole 
extent from north to south. The mountains on 
the northern boundary separating Burma from 
Tibet reach a height of 15,000 feet. The ranges 
which traverse the country in general diminish 
in height southward, ranging from 8,000 to 
10,000 feet in the north of Burma to 6.000 to 
8,000 feet in the latitude of ^Mandalay. The 
Irrawadd}' and Salwin Rivers rise in Tibet and 
form large streams at their entrance into Burma. 
The climate of Burma ranges from that of the 
eastern Himalayas on the north to that of the 
tropical oceanic region on the south, most of the 
country being in the torrid zone. The monsoons 
have a powerful effect upon the climate ; in 
winter they blow from the north and northeast 
off the land and produce the dry season, and in 
summer they blow from the south and southwest 



Burma 

oft' the sea, causing a heavy rainfall on the coast, 
and moving up the river valleys, they carry a 
heavy precipitation far inland. 




ELEPHANT AT WORK 



GOVERNMENT.— Burma, before it came 
under the rule of Great Britain, was a despotic 
monarchy, though the king, or "Lord of the 



191 




American Baptist Mission Press 

RAINGOON. BURMA 
Publishers, Printers, Stationers 




F. D. PHINNEY, Superintendent 



Agents for 
REMINGTON TYPEWRITERS 



BOOKS AND STATIONERY TO MEET ALL TRAVELERS' NEEDS 
Situated in the very heart of the city, near to all Banks, Cook's Agency and the Steamer Wharves 



ig2 











D. BERN & CO. 

Nos. 43-46 Soolay Pagoda Road 






PROPRIETORS OF 






The Diamond Cold Storage 
and Ice Works 






The Diamond Mineral and 
Water Factory 






The Rangoon Sterilized Milk 
Factory 






The Most Up-to-date Factory 
in Bur m ah 




RANGOON 


Purity, Quality and Satisfaction 

Are the Aims of this Firiii 

Importance and class of our patrons prove this is the leading 
firm of its kind in the provinces. 









IQ.-? 



From Occident to Orient and Around the JVorld 



^'\l^ite Elephant," \¥as assisted b)' a high council 
of four Ministers of State, who gave orders to 
the governors of provinces. The Hindoo Code 
of Manu, translated into Burmese, served- as a 
body of law ; decrees were often issued b}' the 
king, but custom played the most important part 
in the legal system. The insignia of royalty were 
the white elephant and white umbrella. There 
was no hereditary no- 
bility, but rank was 
conferred by office, 
and its various de- 
grees were indicated 
by the different shades 
of garments, furniture 
or utensils, and espe- 
cially by the color of 
umbrellas. The lower 
grades of office, how- 
ever, were and still are 
hereditary. T hi s is 
especially true of the 
headmen, who levy 
the taxes from the 
people. The extortion 
of officials frequently 
drove the villagers to 

assassination ; the common term for "the people" 
was "the poor," and the popular category of 
the five enemies were fire, water, robbers, rulers 
and ill-wishers. The governors and deputies who 
acted as judges heard cases in an open shed 
in a public place, but every cause was pre- 
sented in the first instance at the official's 
house, to which none could come empty-handed. 
The village elders constituted the ultimate 




RANGOON^ BURMA 



tribunal of government, and they were consulted 
by the officers on all matters afl:'ecting the 
people. 

Burma is now under the \'iceroy of India, and 
is governed by a Lieutenant-Governor, assigned 
by a Legislative Council at Rangoon. In each 
of the eight divisions is a commissioner, who is 
chief judicial and executive officer. Each division 

is again subdivided in- 
to districts, townshijjs 
and village communi- 
ties, in which Burman 
magistrates preside. 
The headmen of the 
village still retain lo- 
cal police and revenue 
powers, and each vil- 
lage has its judicial 
commissioner and re- 
corder. The police 
force is made up of 
natives and Indians, 
under the command of 
European officers. 
There are thirty- 
seven districts, about 
500 magistrates tmder 
salar}^ and 125 native honorarv magistrates. 

The chief revenue sources are the tax on land, 
amounting to about 40 per cent of the total ; the 
poll tax (4 rupees per head), customs, forests, 
opium and salt monopolies and income tax. In 
1899 and 1900 the revenues and expenditures of 
Burma were Rupees 70,436,240 ($24,650,000) 
and Rupees 4,57,33,116 ($16,006,600) respec- 
tively. 



Information Concerning Calcutta 

IT is the capital of the province of Bengal and metropolis of British India, situated on the 
left bank of the river Hugli, an arm of the sacred Ganges; in latitude 22° 35' N., and lon- 
gitude 88° 27' E. ; about 100 miles from the Bay of Bengal. It is the headquarters of 
the Governor-General of India. 

Calcutta was founded by Governor Charnock in 1686. In 1707 it was made the seat of 
a presidency. In 1756 it was attacked by the Sepoy rebels and captured. 

RAILWAY CONNECTIONS.— The Bengal-Nangpur Railway maintains a daily service 
across the continent to Bombay, leaving Howrah station at 2.30 each afternoon. Fare, first 
class, about 85 rupees. 

The East India Railway will convey you to any point in North India, departing several 
times each day. 

The Bengal-Nangpur Railroad also runs south to Madras. 

The railroads of India are comfortable, with ample refreshment rooms all along the 
routes. 

Thomas Cook & Sons can arrange a trip for you with stops at all the principal points 
in India, at a much cheaper rate than you can procure yourself. Therefore it is essential that 
the traveler apply to them for tickets, guides, etc. 

BAGGAGE ALLOWED ON INDIAN RAILWAYS.— First class, 120 pounds: second 
class, 60 pounds. Intermediate class, 40 pounds ; excess baggage charge, about two cents, gold, 
per pound. 

194 



From c cidcnt to Orient and Around the U'orld 

CURRENCY. — The rupee is used as currency, and in exchange one rupee amounts to 
about thirty-three cents gold. 

HOTELS. — The Grand Hotel, Continental Hotel, and the Great Eastern are among the 
best hotels. 

PHOTOGRAPHS AND SUPPLIES.— Messrs. Johnson & Hoffman have the finest col- 
lection of Indian views in existence. They have thousands of splendid scenes, characteristic of 
India's people ; also the only collection of the snow^s of the Himalayan Mountains. The trav- 
eler should by all means visit their studio and look over the vast collection. 



CONVEYANCES AND FARES. 



Description of Carriages. 



Every Hour or 
Not Exceeding Part of an Hour 
One Hour. 



FARE BY TIME. - 

For a Whole Day 
For Half a Day Consisting 



Rs. As. 

First Class i o 

Second Class o 12 

Third Class o 6 



Iditional. 


or Five Hours. 


of Nine Hours. 


Annas. 


Rupees. 


Rs. As. 


8 




5 


6 


2 


3 8 


3 


I 


I 8 



STEAMBOAT CONNECTIONS. — British India Steamship Co. runs weekly steamers to 
Singapore, calling at Rangoon, Burma and Penang ; also has a monthly service to England, 
calling at Madras and Colombo. 

Messageries Maritime Steamship Co. sails monthly to Europe, calling at Colombo and 
way ports. 

Peninsular & Oriental Steam Navigation Co. sails to London every month. 



Indi 



THAT great Empire, standing midway in the 
Eastern Hemisphere, with its long arm 
extending down into the Indian Ocean, 
insistently attracts the world-traveler. Yet to 
the most of us what a blurred vision the word 
conjures up in the mind. We know it is one of 
Great Britain's Far Eastern possessions, and that 
is all. Its history and customs, its aims and am- 
bitions, its past hoary with traditions of count- 
less centuries, and its future weighted with 
immense possibilities, are. to the average per- 



la 

son, a sealed book. And somewhere in the 
deep recesses of your mind you tr}- to con- 
ceive what its millions of people are like, but 
that is all. 

An endeavor will here be made to simpl}' give 
a brief description of a trip through India from 
Calcutta to Delhi in the north, thence south to 
Bombay, Madras and Tuticorine, where j'ou leave 
the peninsula and cross over to the island of 
spices, Ceylon, to take your steamer at Colombo 
and continue your journey on to Europe. 



Calcutta 



T 



HE capital of the Province of Bengal and 
metropolis of British India is situated on 
the left bank of the River Hugh, an arm 
of the sacred Ganges, about 100 miles from the 
sea. Calcutta is the headquarters of the Gov- 
ernor-General of India and the seat of the Indian 
Government, also of the supreme courts of jus- 
tice, of the court of appeals and of the United 
States Consulate. The appearance of the city, 
as it is approached by the river, is very striking. 
On the left are the Botanical Gardens and the 
Bishop's College, a handsome Gothic edifice 
erected by the Society for the Propagation of the 
Gospel in Foreign Parts ; on the right is the 
suburb of Garden Reach, with its handsome 
country seats and beautiful gardens : farther on 
are the Government dockyards and the arsenal ; 



beyond these are the Maidan Esplanade, the 
favorite place of resort of the elite of Calcutta 
for their evening drive, the Eden Gardens, with- 
their beautiful tropical trees and plants, and the 
splendid zoological gardens. 

Here, near the river, lies Fort ^^'ilIiam, the 
largest fortress in India, occupying, with the out- 
works, an area of about a mile in diameter. It 
is garrisoned by Europeans and native soldiers, 
motmts 619 guns, and its armor}' contains 80,000 
stands of small arms. Facing the esplanade, 
among other fine buildings, is the Government 
House, a magnificent palace erected bv the 
]\Iarquis of ^^'ellesley. Beyond this, extending 
northward along the river bank, is the Strand, 
two miles in length and 40 feet above low water, 
with various ghats, docks and landing-stages 



British India Steam Navigation Co., Ldi' 

REGULAR MAIL SERVICES 
UNDER CONTRACT WITH THE GOVERNMENT OF INDIA 



STEAMERS ARE DESPATCHED AS FOLLOWS: 



FROM CALCUTTA TO 

RANGOON and MADRAS — Every Sunday. 

RANGOON and MOULMEIN— Every Sunday (or 
Monday from Diamond Harbor if required for 
English Mails) and every Tuesday and Friday. 

RANGOON, PENANG and SINGAPORE— Every 
Friday or Sunday with transhipment at Ran- 
goon. 

CHITTAGONG, AKYAB, KYOUKPHYOO and 
RANGOON— Every Saturday. 

NORTHERN COAST PORTS, MADRAS, CEY- 
LON, MALABAR PORTS and BOMBAY— 
Fortnightly. 

CEYLON, MALABAR PORTS and BOMBAY— 
As inducement offers, weekly. 

SINGAPORE, FREMANTLE, ADELAIDE, MEL- 
BOURNE and SYDNEY— About once in six 
weeks and SINGAPORE and NEW ZEALAND 
Ports — Three times in the 3rear. 

COLOMBO and MAURITIUS (Receiving Cargo for 
NATAL and CAPE PORTS)— Every four 
weeks. 

MADRAS, COLOMBO, ADEN, SUEZ CANAL, 
GENOA, MARSEILLES, LONDON— Fort- 
nightly. 

FROM MADRAS TO 

CALCUTTA (direct) — and via Coast Ports — Every 

fortnight. 
RANGOON — Every Thursday at 5 p. m. and Pon- 

dichery Cuddalore and Negapatam, every 

Thursday. 
NEGAPATAM, PENANG, and SINGAPORE— 

Every alternate Sunday. 
CEYLON, MALABAR PORTS, and BOMBAY— 

Every fortnight. 
COLOMBO, ADEN, SUEZ, GENOA and LONDON 

— Every alternate Monday. 

FROM RANGOON TO 

CALCUTTA (direct) — Every Monday (with Home- 
tmflt ward Mails) Thursday and Saturday. 
AKYAB, CHITTAGONG, and CALCUTTA with 

Aracan Homeward Mails — Every Wednesday. 
MOULMEIN — Every Monday, Wednesday, and 

Friday. 



FROM RANGOON TO 

TAVOY AND MERGUI— Every Wednesday. 
PENANG, SINGAPORE— Every Thursday. 
PENANG, PORT SWETTENHAM, SINGAPORE, 

HONGKONG and AMOY— As inducement 

offers. 
SINGAPORE, MANILA, JAPAN (YOKOHAMA, 

KOBE and MOJI) — As inducement ofTers. 
MADRAS (direct). Every Friday (and usually con- 
necting with the Overland Homeward Mail, via 

Bombav). 
MADRAS, 'PONDICHERY, CUDDALORE and 

NEGAPATAM— Every Wednesday. 
GOPALPORE, BARWAH, CALINGAPATAM, 

BIMLIPATAM, VIZAGAPATAM, COCONA- 

DA, with Coromandel Homeward Mails — Every 

Thursday. 
COLOMBO, MALABAR PORTS, and BOMBAY— 

As inducement offers about weekly. 

FROM ROMBAY TO 

VERAWAL, MANGROLE, KARACHEE and 
PERSIAN GULF— Every Monday. 

KARACHEE, MUSCAT, BUSHIRE, KOWEIT 
and BUSRESH— Every Thursday. 

KARACHEE every Monday via KATHIAWAR 
PORTS and Friday (direct) on arrival of the 
English Mail Steamer. 

MALABAR COAST, CEYLON, COROMANDEL 
PORTS, and CALCUTTA— Fortnightly. 

RANGOON or CALCUTTA (direct) frequently, as 
inducement offers. 

EAST and SOUTH AFRICA and ADEN— Every 
fortnight, connecting at Aden with the Out- 
ward and Homeward Mail Steamers. 

FROM KARACHI 

BOMBAY — Every Saturday and Monday vi-a 
Kathiawar Coast Ports, Thursday with English 
Mail, and Friday via Cutchmandvie. 

GULF PORTS — Subsidiary Steamers leave every 
Friday and Mail Steamers leave every Saturday. 

COLOMBO, MADRAS, CALCUTTA or RANGOON 
Other Coast Ports via Bombay, weekly. 



All particulars in respect to freight and passage may be had on application to the Company's Agents 
at any of the above named ports, or 

MACKINNON, MACKENZIE & CO., Managing Agents 
Calcutta and Bombay 



196 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



for ocean liners. It is adorned with many fine 
buildings, including the custom house, the new 
mint and other Government offices ; and the ap- 
pearance given by these and other edifices has 
gained for Calcutta the appellation of "City of 
Palaces." Among other places of interest men- 
tion may be made of the principal court of jus- 
tice, a fine town hall, the Bengal and United 
Service Clubs, Writers' Building, Bank of Ben- 
gal, Jesuits' College, medical college, university, 
the Indian and the Economic museums, theatres, 
the Y. M. C. A. building, besides various 
churches, mosques, Hindoo temples and pagodas 
and numerous bazaars. 

There are a number of monuments throughout 



In 1852 Calcutta was erected into a munici- 
pality, the proprietors paying assessments and 
electing commissioners to apply the proceeds of 
these assessments in cleansing, improving and 
embellishing the town. The water supply of 
Calcutta is good. Formerly the water was kept 
in large tanks, interspersed throughout the city, 
whence it was borne by water-carriers or bahis- 
ties in large leather bags. Since. the year 1865, 
however, excellent water has been obtained from 
the Hugh, about fifteen miles above Calcutta, 
where it is filtered and sent down by pipes in 
the usual way. The works were further im- 
proved after 1888, and now yield a daily supply 
of 20,000,000 gallons. The result of this and of 




Jolinston .£ Hoffm 



CALCUTTA, INDIA 



the city, the most notable being those erected to 
the Marquis of Wellesley and Sir David Ochter- 
lony. While the European quarter of the town is 
distinguished for its fine public buildings and 
commodious dwelling-houses, the sections occu- 
pied by the natives present a very different as- 
pect, their houses being, in most instances, built 
of mud or bamboo and mats, and the streets 
narrow and unpaved. The cyclone of 1867 and 
that of June, 1870, while very destructive — in the 
first instance destroying 30,000 native houses — 
made room for considerable improvement. New 
streets have been opened throughout crowded 
quarters, and brick houses are replacing the huts. 



a system of underground drainage with an outlet 
in the Salt Lake has been a marked improvement 
in the health of the city, although more is to be 
desired in this direction, one-fourth of the wards 
remaining unsewered. A few progressive wards 
dispose of garbage by modern incinerators. Gas 
and electric lighting have taken the place of the 
oil lamps formerly in general use, and there are 
many miles of street-car lines leading to all 
parts of the city. 

The principal scientific and literary societies of 
Calcutta are the Bengal Asiatic Societ}', founded 
in 1784 by Sir W. Jones, possessing a fine li- 
brary and a valuable and extensive museum; the 



197 



From Occident to Orient and .-I run ml flic World 



Bethuiie Society, for the promotion of inter- 
course between European and native gentlemen ; 
the Dalhousie Institute, for the literary and 
social improvement of all classes of the com- 
munity; the Bengal Social Science Association. 
The University of Calcutta was founded in 1857 
on the same basis as the London University, and 
exercises functions over Bengal, the Northwest 
Provinces, Oudh and the Central Provinces. 
Colleges have been instituted to prepare intend- 
ing students. Other educational institutions are 
numerous in Calcutta. There are an engineering 
college and four Government colleges. The 
principal places for religious instruction are 



cutta has telegraphic connection with the prin- 
cipal towns of India and communications with 
Europe by several lines. Continuous communi- 
cation, greatly facilitated by the Suez Canal, is 
kept up with Great Britain by numerous well- 
appointed steamers. 

One-third of the whole trade of India passes 
through Calcutta. The exports are jute, opium, 
rice, cotton, wheat, sugar, indigo, coffee, tea. 
saltpetre, linseed, shellac, buft'alo horns, hides. 
castor oil, cutch, gunny bags, etc. As a central 
depot for the richest parts of India, Calcutta has 
an extensive inland trade. The principal in- 
dustrial estaljlishmcn.ts include susjar refineries. 




J<,hnslini <4 Huffman. VaUiitfa 



JAIN TEMPLE, C.\LCUTT.\ 



Bishop's College, intended chiefly for the educa- 
tion of missionaries and teachers, and the insti- 
tutions of the Established and Free Churches of 
Scotland for the same purpose. 

The communications of Calcutta afford great 
facilities for its extensive commerce. The entire 
great peninsula is a network of raih'oads leading 
to the most obscure sections. It is directly con- 
nected with Khulna in the delta ; with Goalanda, 
an important centre of steamship traffic on the 
Brahmaputra: with Darjiling in the Himalayas; 
Delhi and Simla farther to the north, and with 
Diamond Harbor and Port Canning. The lines 
to Northwest India and to Bombay start from 
Howrah, on the opposite side of the Hugh. Cal- 



cotton manufactories, flour, saw and oil mills 
and ship building docks. Several newspapers are 
published. There are a number of banks and 
numerous insurance and other companies, with a 
chamber of commerce. Living is comparatively 
cheap, and most of the luxuries of life, as well as 
its necessaries, are to be had as readily as in 
most European towns. The annual fall of rain 
averages 64 inches ; the temperature in the shade 
ranges in ]u\v from 78° to 87°, and in Decemiier 
from 60° to 80°. 

In 1837 the population of the town proper 
amounted to 229,700; it had increased by 1881 
to 612,307; in 1891 to 861,764, with suburbs, 
and in 1901 to 1,121.700. Besides these, thou- 



198 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



sands of the 3,500,000 who sleep at night in the 
surrounding districts of Hugh and the twenty- 
four suburban Parganas flock during the da)^ -to 
Calcutta on foot, by boat or by rail\va_v to their 
daily toil. The inhabitants are mostly Hindoos 
and Mohammedans. The Christians number 
only about 30,000. There is a considerable num- 
ber of Europeans and of Eurasians, and some 
Armenians, Greeks, Jews, Parsees and negroes. 
Calcutta was the birthplace of \^'illiam ]\Iake- 
peace Thackeray. 

Calcutta was founded by Governor Charnoch 
in the year 1686, by the removal hither of the 
factories of the East India Company. In 1700 
three villages surrounding the factories having 
been conferred upoB the company by the Em- 
peror of Delhi, in recognition of a present made 
to Azim, a son of Aurungzebe, they were forth- 
with fortified and received the name of Fort Wil- 
liam in honor of the reigning king ; but the place 
was subsequently termed Calcutta, the name of 
one of the villages. In 1707, Calcutta had ac- 
quired some importance as a town, and was made 
the seat of a presidency. In 1756 it was unex- 
pectedly attacked by Surajah Dowlah, the Nawab 
of Bengal, and compelled to yield after a two 
days' siege ; 146 men fell in the enemy's hands, 
and these were cast at night into the notorious 
'"Black Hole," only twenty-three surviving tiie 
horrors of that night. The city remained in the 
hands of the enemy until eight months afterward, 
when Clive, in conjunction with Admiral Wat- 
son, recaptured the place, and afterwards con- 
cluded peace with the Nawab. Soon after this, 
and subsequent to the decisive victory of Plassey, 
the possessions of the East India Company were 
greatly extended by means of grants made by 
the Emperor of Delhi, and Calcutta once more 
resumecl its career of progress and prosperity. 

OLD FORT WILLIAM is among the prin- 
cipal points of interest. In the history of the 
world there is no more wonderful story than that 
of the creating of the British Empire in India, 
and of the historical part this old fort played in 
the great Sepoy Mutiny of 1857. The fort was 
built in the year 1696 on the site now occupied 
by the General Post Office and Custom House. 

The spot where the historical "Black Hole" 
stood is in the roadway running at the back of 
Dalhousie Square, adjacent to the Post Office. 
The fatal "den" was excavated in 1883, and a 
survey proved that the chamber where the 123 
Europeans met a horrible death was twenty-two 
feet in length and about fourteen feet wide. The 
exact space it formerly covered has been used 
for extending the Post Office, therefore nothing 
marks the spot but a marble slab on which is 
written, "The stone pavement close to this marks 
the position and size of the prison cell in old Fort 
William known in history as the "Black Hole" 
of Calcutta. 



Soon after the battle of Plassey a new fort 
was built south of the spot where the old fort 
stood, and the woi-k of construction extended 
over a period of sixteen years, and cost over 
$9,000,000. The new fort is surrounded by a 
wide ditch which is nearly dry, but which can be 
flooded in a few moments by means of hydraulic 
pumps from the river. This is the largest and 
most formidable fortress in India and covers an 
area of two scpare miles. It is sufficiently large 
to house the entire European population should 
necessity ever require a refuge there. Visitors 
are admitted at almost any time, but only British 
subjects are permitted to view the Arsenal and 
Armory, unless special order is obtained from 
the Military Department. Many interesting and 
historical trophies are to be seen within the walls 
of this fort. 

ROYAL MINT.— The Calcutta Mint is a 
huge luiilding in Grecian Doric style, situated at 
the north end of Strand Road, towards the native 
quarter, the central portico being a copy of the 
temple of Minerva at Athens. The building- 
took six years to construct, and occupies a space 
of i8j/^ acres. The fact that the Calcutta Mint 
is the largest in the world is not generally known. 
It is capable of turning out 800,000 pieces of 
coin in seven hours, and besides Indian coins and 
medals, it supplies copper coins to the Govern- 
ments of Cevlon and Straits Settlements. 

BOTANICAL GARDENS.— The Royal Bo- 
tanical Gardens at Sibpur are one of the chief 
attractions of Calcutta, and are visited by many 
botanists from every quarter of the globe. The 
gardens were severely damaged by a cyclone in 
1864, and three years later another storm played 
terrible havoc and leveled most of the plant 
houses to the ground. Since 1871 the entire 
gardens have been rearranged, and new con- 
servatories have been added ; also a library and 
herbarium. 

Attention is drawn to a few specimens of 
tropical trees seen to advantage in the gardens. 
The foremost of these is perhaps the "Great 
Banyan," over 100 years old, and has now abotit 
250 aerial roots, all of which have spread from 
the main stem and taken root in the ground. 
These auxiliary trunks are from a few inches 
to twelve feet in girth, while the main trunk has 
a circumference of forty-two feet. The crown 
of this extraordinary tree has a circumference 
of over 900 feet, and is still growing. Another 
remarkable tree is that known as the "Bird's Nest 
Fern," which grows in the form of plaintain tree, 
and is one of the largest ferns in existence. The 
aquatic plant known as the sacred lotus, also the 
sacred deodar, and the peepul trees, should not 
escape notice. 

There are two routes to the Botanical Gardens, 



199 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



one via the Pontoon Bridge at Howrah, and the 
other by water to Sibpur; the latter being per- 
haps preferable. 

THE ZOOLOGICAL GARDEN is by far 

the most important of its kind in Asia, and con- 
tains specimens of animals not to be found in 
any other menagerie. There are deer, alligators, 
elk, enormous turtles, the happy-looking rhinoc- 
eros, porcupines and black leopards ; a tremend- 
ous man-eater in the same house with the fore- 
going, of whom it is said he devoured over 200 
human beings before he was captured. There 
are, naturally, many fine specimens of the Royal 
Bengal Tiger, Himalayan Bear, and numerous 
strange animals not seen in other lands. 

In this garden is housed possibly the greatest 
collection of monkeys caged anywhere ; they are 
of all sizes, colors and characters, and many with 
facial expressions 
similar to the various 
nationalities of the 
world, and 3'ou will 
find it exceedingly in- 
teresting" to make a 
study of them. There 
are fine specimens of 
monkeys who will 
perform for you on 
the swinging trapeze. 
Birds and reptiles of 
every known kind are 
housed in their re- 
spective quarters. 

THE INDIAN 
MUSEUM was 
founded by the In- 
dian Government and 
the Asiatic Society of 
Bengal, the latter de- 
voting its attention almost entirely to scientific 
research. The building has a frontage of over 
300 feet and contains some of the most in- 
teresting relics brought to light during the 
archaeological survey of India. One of the 
most noteworthy being a gateway and a 
portion of the Buddhist stupa of Bharut, a 
huge ornamental monument illustrative of Bud- 
dhist legend. The railing and coping bear repre- 
sentations of the people who inhabited Bharut 
two thousand years ago, with inscriptions in an- 
cient Pati, and these deal with the previous births 
of Buddha which number 550. The writings and 
carvings are marvelously clear, and illustrate 
the domestic life of the people of that period, 
besides giving delineations of the dress, war 
implements and buildings. 

THE SIWALIK GALLERY contains the 
most complete and interesting collection of fos- 
sils in the world, including skulls and bones of 




many prehistoric animals and birds. Among 
these are the hyaenarctos or hyena-bear ; the 
dinotherium, animal of close resemblance to an 
elephant ; the amphicyon, a dog'-like animal as 
large as a full-grown polar bear ; the Siwalik cat, 
which was as large as a tiger ; the megaloscelonis, 
a wading-bird about the size of an ostricli, etc. 
The East Gallery is devoted entirely to mammals, 
and probably this portion of the museum is of 
greatest interest to the general public. Many of 
the skeletons in the gallery are from remote parts 
of the Himalayan Mountains, and have never 
been seen alive by Europeans ; the largest being 
that of an Indian elephant, measuring nearly 
twelve feet from the top of the shoulder to the 
ground. The skeleton of two tremendous rhinoc- 
eroses will also attract attention. The ethnolog- 
ical collection includes models from the life of 
every known Indian race, many of them aborig- 

i n a 1 a n d uncivilized. 
With these are their 
respective dresses, war 
implements, household 
goods, musical instru- 
ments, and everything 
to illustrate the cus- 
toms and habits of the 
various tribes. 

THE ECONOMIC 
MUSEUM, occupying 
a large space in the 
new building, is of spe- 
cial interest to mer- 
chants and manufac- 
turers who import and 
export to this section 
of the world. The col- 
lection includes silver 
and lacquered ware, 
brass and copper, em- 
broidery, jewelry, pottery, grass ware, weapons 
of all kinds, and an immense variety of woolen 
goods, carpets and rugs. Among the manu- 
factured products are dyes, drugs, oil seeds, 
cereals, sugar, tea, coflfee, cinchona, etc. There 
is also a large collection of basket work, wood 
and ivory carving and mosaic paneling, and in 
the department devoted to timber, all known 
woods and jungle products are represented. 

MAIDAN, Calcutta's esplanade, extends 
along the river for several miles, and is the pop- 
ular evening parade ground for the city's fash- 
ions. It presents a varied scene, and affords an 
opportunity of study — a moving picture-show, 
multiplied beyond ordinary imagination, both in 
color and variation of its queer objects. You 
may see the Viceroy driving in state, preceded 
by two native lancers, and followed by four 
others. Then the mounted guard of a native 
prince passes in line, bedecked with sufficient 



WRITERS BUILDING, CALCUTTA 



From Occident to Orient and Around the JVorld 



gold lace to make you think him a field marshal 
on dress parade; then comes His Highness, 
\yearing that sleepy-looking dignity so charac- 
teristic of the Orient, in one of those medieval 
English coaches, with 
two men on the box and 
two behind, a kind of 
"prairie schooner pha- 
eton," the only modern 
feature about it being 
its rubber tires. 

\'arious dignitaries 
and world's representa- 
tives pass in this end- 
less chain, and among 
the most conspicuous is 
the Consul-General for 
the United States, who 
dresses his footmen in 
a uniform composed of 
stars and stripes — mak- 
ing him the laughing 
stock of all travelers. 

Natives walk, drive 
and ride bicycles, and 
dodge in and out 
through this moving 
circus parade : then the 
jingle, jingle of bells is 
heard, and there appears 

one of those small canopy-covered bull carts, 
filled with a whole famil}- out for an airing, 
the driver sitting sideways on the shafts, and 
who, at regular intervals gives the bulTs tail an 



unmerciful twist to make him hike a little faster. 

All kinds and varieties of automobiles tear 

along, taking the lead at a terrific speed, ofttimes, 

and with great frequency leaving marks of 











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ON THE MAIDAN. C.\LCUTT.\ 



death behind, but this is considered as nothing, 
since the unfortunates are usually natives, and 
the judge's decision is rendered as "death caused 
bv misadventure." 



Darjeeling (or Darjiling) 



BY those who arrive at Calcutta between Xo- 
vember and February it must be remem- 
bered that the hill stations such as Simla 
and Darjeeling are almost deserted during the 
cold months. The proper time to enjoy these 
lovely spots is from the beginning of April until 
the middle of June, or, after the rains have 
ceased, say from some time in September to the 
end of October. 

Darjeeling is a popular, sanitary station of 
Bengal, British India, capital of a district of the 
same name, in the Sikkim Himalaj^as, about 308 
miles north of Calcutta. It is situated 7,200 feet 
above the sea, on the side of a great hollow basin, 
in which flows the Rangit, a branch of the Teesti. 
It commands a magnificent view of the Hima- 
layas to the north and west, and is crossed by 
the Darjeeling and Himalayan Railroad, a road 
remarkable for its elevation. The station has good 
bazaars, a fine sanitarium, beautiful gardens, two 
Anglican churches, an excellent water supply, 
and is, especially during October, the fashionable 
Indian health resort. Tea-growing is the prin- 
cipal industry of the district. Fifty thousand 



acres are devoted to its cultivation, and as much 
as 8.000.000 pounds have been produced an- 
nually. 

The journey from Calcutta only requires about 
22 hours by rail and steamer, and the trip from 
the lowlands of Bengal up to Darjeeling consti- 
tutes an experience never to be forgotten. At 
every turn along the way new beauties stretch 
out before the traveler. You leave behind you 
the fertile plains of Bengal, bathed in beautiful 
sunlight reflections, with silvery streams thread- 
ing their way down to the sea : before you rise 
the giant, ice-clad peaks, high above the sur- 
rounding range of the Himalayas ; nature's 
cementerial monuments of an age of fire, the 
thick, deep, shaggy forests, climbing to the very 
ice fields ; the glacial streams, like threads of 
silver entering here and there the main streams 
below ; all adding to the incomparable scenery, 
forming a combination from every point of view 
that thrills the heart of living man. As the train 
begins to ascend, the line runs through dense 
jungles of cane and grass, the cane fifty or sixty 
feet high, like carriage whips, while the grass 



From Occident to Orient and Around the IJ'orld 




MOUNT EVEREST 



iDeneath sends up blades fifteen feet, and seed- 
stalks rise twenty or thirty feet from the ground 
with huge, feathery tops. These impenetrable 
wildernesses are the haunts of tigers, rhinoce- 
roses, buffaloes, bears, sarnbur, deer and wild 
bogs. As the train ascends further the jungle 
gives place to forest — oaks, banyans, mimosas, 
acacias, and fig. India-rubber and mulberry trees 
are all plentifully represented up to the eleva- 
tion of 2,000 or 3,000 feet ; and 
these are interspersed with great 
clumps of giant bamboo sixty 
feet high. At 3,700 feet above 
the plains both peach and almond 
trees appear in full blossom in 
January, and at 4,500 feet there 
are fine spreading chestnuts. 500 
feet higher there appear the first 
of those beautiful Himalayan 
tree ferns, fifteen to twenty feet 
high. A little farther on a small 
tea plantation helps to decorate 
this mangificent landscape. 

Two thousand feet below the 
summit the train often enters a 
dense cloud but soon passes over, 
and by the time Darjeeling is 
reached, the weather is clear, 
and the magnificent valley of 
the Rangit, and the snowv 



heights of Kinchinjunga burst u])on the sight in 
all the splendor of the setting sun. From this 
elevation you view the majestic grandeur 
of a region far surpassing the Alpine 
mountains of Switzerland — Miiunt Everest, 
standing out before you at a height of 28.- 
000 feet; 21,000 feet above the level on which 
you stand, and 11,000 feet of its height covered 
with perpetual snows. Overhead the sky is 
merged into a transparency of color, such as vou 
have noticed in the whirring wings of the hum- 
ming bird as it drank at the fountain. From this 
altitude you will look down upon what seems to 
be the whole world — for, spread out below arc 
two great empires, India on one side and China 
on the other — these empires, with their heathen- 
ism, their poverty, their superstitions, their great 
wealth undeveloped, their chattering, crowded 
millions. Far below lies the beautiful sea of 
clouds, glistening like a silvery lake as the sun 
tints them into a more magnificent combination 
of colors than any painter ever dreamed of. All 
this splendor is revealed to you from the greatest 
"grand stand" God ever created, the matchless 
Hmialayas. 

Note. — At Darjeeling there are several hotels, 
the best being the "Grand Hotel,'' managed by 
Europeans, with a competent staff of native 
servants. This hotel is owned and operated by 
j\lrs. Monk, in connection with the Grand Hotel 
at Calcutta ; it is built on one of the highest 
points and commands the best view of the snows 
and mountains of the surrounding country. 




SE.\ OF CLOUDS. D.VR.IEELING 



From Occident to Orient and Around the IVorld 



Benares, the Holy City 



THIS Holy City of the Hindoo has a signifi- 
cance to him compared to that of Mecca to 
the Mohammedan, and greater attraction 
than Jerusalem ever had for the Christian. Be- 
nares is the headquarters and altar of the com- 
plex religion that holds the Hindoo nation to- 
gether, and is the very heart and soul of Hindoo- 
ism. 

The Holy City is situated on the left bank of 
the Ganges, and from the opposite shore presents 
a picturesque appearance, backed by the minarets 
of over 330 mosques, and the pinnacles of over 
2,000 pagodas. In the traditions of the country, 
Benares is believed to have been coeval with- 
creation, and tolerably authentic history assigns 



themslves from all sin in the sacred waters of 
the Ganges. 

No city in the universe can compare with this 
one for attracting a tide of humanity to its 
portals — rich and poor, high caste and low. all 
wend their way to the city. Some travel in state, 
on dignified elephants, or camel caravan : others 
by rail ; while thousands of these devotees plod 
on foot across the great highways of the empire, 
sometimes spending two or three months to make 
the journey, and many of them never reach their 
destination, but perish on the wayside, leaving 
their bones to bleach upon the desert. 

For several miles along the river extends the 
religious section of the citv, and the visitor will 




Johnston it Hoffman, India 



BATHING GHATS, BENARES 



to it a high antiquity, dating back more than 
2,500 years ago. 

Upon entering the city it is disappointing as 
far as your first impression is concerned ; its 
streets, or rather alleys, barely afford a passage 
for the motley throng of human beings, sacred 
bulls, elephants, camels, fakirs, and the bearers 
of dead bodies ; and these thoroughfares, besides 
being shut out from sun and air, are sleek and 
slimy with filth. 

Upon festive occasions Benares is thronged 
with hundreds of thousands of pilgrims, from 
every section of the continent, and especially is 
this so at the sun's eclipse ; as on January 14, 
1907, when 72 per cent, of the sun's disc was ob- 
scured from view, there were estimated to have 
been over 300,000 people at Benares, to cleanse 



find every foot of it filled with mysterious inter- 
est. It is always possible to see a cremation in 
course of progress at the burning ghats, and a 
number of dead bodies placed in the river to be 
cleansed preparatory for cremation. The clatter 
of cymbals is constantly heard, mingled with the 
hideous cries of the mourners, and the angry 
voices of the wood dealers arguing with the de- 
ceased's relatives over the price to be paid for 
sufficient fuel to consume the body. 

Having been sanctified and cleansed by Mother 
Ganges, and the wood deal satisfactorily closed, 
the corpse is removed from the river and placed 
upon a platform : and the chief mourner, lighting 
a handful of dried reeds at the fire, rushes to the 
waiting pyre, runs several times around it, and. 
with the lighted torch in his right hand lights 



204 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



the mass at the head and feet of the corpse. This 
completed, the mourners and relatives retire to a 
shaded spot near by, and in silence watch the 
conflagration. Within an hour all is over, the 
ashes are strewn out upon the surface of the 
Ganges and borne from sight by the current. 

One of the most remarkable scenes in the world 
is that of the pilgrims bathing in the Ganges, 
thus cleansing themselves of unholy thoughts 
and wicked deeds. Thousands surge into the 
water from the stone ghats, moaning and utter- 
ing prayers as they dip deep into the Ganges, 
until the air is filled with a frightening and hid- 
eous moan that makes your blood run cold, and 
a desire creeps over you to rush from the pres- 
ence of these fanatics, yet you are held as if in 
a vise, unable to move or speak : as if overcome 
by a nightmare — a w e - i n - 
spired at this wonderful 
spectacle. 

Benares is the Mecca for 
those numberless strange 
types of religious monstros- 
ities, fakirs, conjurers, 
mendicants, etc., who con- 
gregate to beg, steal, and 
extort money from that one- 
million-stream of humanity 
which annually arrives and 
departs. Many of these 
beings — s o m e of the m 
scarcely seem human 
enough to be referred to as 
men — lead a nomadic ex- 
istence, wandering all over 
India from village to vil- 
lage, temple to temple, de- 
pendant upon c h a r i t }• . 
Usually accompanied by a 
young disciple, who obtains 
subsistence for both by beg- 
ging, they are to be found 
in all parts of the country, 

and are generally regarded with veneration by 
the Hindoos. They go completely naked oft- 
times, their bodies plastered with clay, ashes and 
filth, the plaster frequently put on in stripes like 
those of the zebra ; their hair arranged in all 
manners of uncouth styles. Sometimes their 
faces are painted most hideously ; they are al- 
most always extremely emaciated because of 
their esthetic practices, irregular habits and 
often insufficient food. The only property they 
possess is a loin cloth and a brass bowl, the 
latter used to receive the food handed them by 
the faithful. These fakirs are supposed never 
to beg, and to accept only food ; but man)- of 
them are not averse to gifts of money. 

At Benares the endless crowds of pilgrims and 
devotees offer to them a rich field, and they are 
to be met on every hand. Some sit at the street 
corners and other points of vantage, in silent 



abstraction, their bowed heads covered with 
ashes; others dart among the crowds with the 
fire of madness in their eyes. Many practise 
self-torture of horrible character. You will ob- 
serve them standing with outstretched arms, held 
so long in one position that they have become 
fixed ; there one sits with eyelids removed, gaz- 
ing at the blazing, tropical sun — long since 
blinded ; others wear sandals in which thorns 
have been placed before they were firmly 
strapped on to the feet. Another stands on one 
leg with upraised arm, motionless for days, look- 
ing ridiculously like a stork. Others will sit or 
lie upon couches made of iron spikes, or a bed of 
broken glass. 

That these and other horrible practices, set by 
years of custom, can be regarded by millions 




SACRED BULL OF INDIA 



upon millions of human beings as meritorious 
examples of self-denial and piety seems impos- 
sible. But at Benares one grows accustomed to 
so many inexplicable vagaries as such astound- 
ing aberrations being regarded normal manifes- 
tations of "religion," that your sense of being 
offended at these sights has become dulled, so 
that finally, the presence of thousands of these 
"madmen" excites no special attention other than 
a casual glance. 

Another of the remarkable sights of Benares, 
and one few travelers fail to visit, is the temple 
,of goodness, Durga, more commonly known as 
the Monkey Temple. It is much frequented by 
Hindoo worshippers, as Durga was one of the 
wives of the terrible Siva, the destroyer, of 
whom they stand greatly in dread, and at whose 
shrine many liberal offerings are made. 

The image of Kali within this temple is a 



205 



From Occident to Orient and Around the ll'orld 



black figure with a hideous countenance, whose 
red tongue drops to the waistline. She is 
smeared with blood, and draped with huge rep- 
tiles, and hanging from her neck is a garland of 
human skulls. Kali demands blood, and if not 
drenched dail}', something terrible is expected t<5 
happen. Every town in India has a temple to 
this monster, and each morning sacrifices are 
made to this ogress to quell her insatiable appe- 
tite for blood, bv killing a goat, whose head is 



The special attraction, however, of this temple 
is the large number of loathsome fat monkeys 
that inhabit the place, and throng its halls and 
window ledges. These grotestjue creatures 
swarm over the whole temple, running through 
the corridors, clinging to ]:)inars and arches of 
the roof, and hanging by their tails from the 
carved images ; chattering, screaming and frisk- 



mg about without cessation. 



Benares has man\- strange sights, liut noni. 




J.h'iroit £ ll.y7-ii 1,1. !,■ J t'Ha 



SUN WORSHIPERS, IND].\ 



severed with a sharp knife at one blow, then 
carried to the image of Kali and the blood al- 
lowed to drip over it ; the frightful-looking 
priests smearing their faces with blood, then 
proceed to dance madly about the carcass. Dur- 
ing times of famine buffaloes are sacrificed, and 
ofttimes human beings ; thus babies may be 
found lying at the foot of Kali. But now this is 
a punishable crime under British rule and sel- 
dom occurs. 



more strange than the Monkey Temple, witli its 
thousands of Simian "deities" and their attend- 
ant priests. If there is one thing more astonish- 
ing than the temple and great drove of monkeys, 
it is the groveling stream of pilgrims and wor- 
shippers at this holy city. 

Note. — The traveler will find the "Hotel de 
Paris," and "Clark's Family Hotel," both capable 
of furnishing accommodations for your stay at 
Benares. 



Allahabad 



Is the seat of the government of the Northwest 
Provinces of British India. It occupies the 
fork of the Ganges and Jumna which forms 
the lowest extremity of the extensive region 
'listinguished as the Doab, or the countrv of Two 



Rivers, lying between those natural boundaries. 
Its position at the confluence of the holy rivers, 
which has long made it a center of superstitious 
reverence and worship, and a much frequented 
place of pilgrimage for the purpose of absolution, 



206 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



has also rendered it a natural centre of com- 
merce and civilization. 

• It is on the direct water route between Cal- 
cutta and the Upper Provinces, and is a main 
station on the Grand Trunk Road, and also on 
the East India Railway. Allahabad stands /2 
miles west of Benares; is distant from Calcutta 
by land 496 miles : by water, 808 miles. From 
Delhi it is distant 386 miles, and from Bombay, 
by the Jabalpur branch of the East India Rail- 
way, 840 miles. 

In point of appearance Allahabad is scarcely 
worthy of its character and renown. With the 
exception of a few ancient monuments of costh', 
elaborate and tasteful workmanship, the native 
part of the city consists of mean houses and 
narrow streets. The most noteworthy buildings 
are the Jumma ^lusjid, or the great mosque, and 
the Sultan Khossor's caravansary — a fine clois- 
tered quadrangle. The fort is of red stone, and 
is approached by a ver}' handsome gate ; it con- 
tains the palace or residency, and the famous 
Asoka or Gada Pillar, the club of Bhin Sen, 240 
B. C. Below the fort, built over "the undying- 
banyan tree," is the subterranean Chali Satum 
Temple, which is said to communicate with 
Benares by an underground passage, through 
which flows a third holy river, the Sereswati, 
visible only to the eye of faith, the dropping 
moisture on the rocky walls pointed out as the 
river scarcely justifying the presumption. 

Two boat bridges cross the Ganges, and the 
East India Railway bridge spans the Jumna at 
Allahabad. So many pilgrims throng the city, 
especially at the time of the great annual reli- 
gious fair, that instead of Allahabad, the natives 
call it "Fakirabad" or city of beggars. 

Allahabad was founded by Akbar in 1575, on 
the site of an ancient fort. From 1765 to 1801 
it underwent three changes of rulers, finally 
coming under British domination. The mutiny 
of 1857 brought disaster to the city. On the 6th 



of June of that year, the insurrection, which had 
begun at ]\Ieerut on the loth of May, extended 
to Allahabad. Though the Europeans held the 
fort, the mutineers were for some days undis- 
puted masters of the situation ; and between the 
ravages of the marauders and the fire of the gar- 
rison, the city became little better than a heap of 
blackened ruins. New buildings began to spring 




INDI,\N CHETTY 

up as soon as order had been restored, and most 
of the city has been rebuilt since that date, with 
the exception of a few monuments of ancient 
native architecture. 

There are good waiting rooms at Allahabad, 
with rest or retiring rooms near the station. 
There is also a good hotel, "Lawrie's Great 
Xorthern," at Xo. 2 Oueens Road. 



c, 



. a w n p o r e 

THE name of Cawnpore is associated with tures of 
the events of the Sepoy Mutiny, one of the 
most terrible episodes of which was 
enacted here in July, 1857, the massacre of the 
European women and children by Nana Sahib. 
The city lies on the right bank of the Ganges at 
the junction of the Jumna, 140 miles above 
Allahabad. Cawnpore's modern importance is 
due to its commercial facilities, and partly to 
military and political considerations. Since 1888 
it has been brought into direct communication 
with Bomba)^, through the opening of the rail- 
way to Jahansi, at the junction of four railway 
lines, it is now one of the chief railwaj' stations 
in India. It has extensive trade in grain and 
agricultural products, and important manufac- 

207 



home commodities, such as cotton, 
leather, etc. A visit to the cotton spinning mills 
will be found of great interest. 

The town contains missions, churches, schools, 
colleges, and several good clubs, and owns its 
municipal waterworks. It has belonged to Eng- 
land since 1801, and at present has a population 
of over 200,000 souls. 

The modern origin of Cawnpore deprives it of 
architectural attractions, and it cannot boast of 
such ancient palaces or handsome edifices as 
adorn Agra, Benares, and other historic capitals. 
Its chief interest is derived from its share in 
the disaster of 1857. 

Just outside of iNIemorial Church is a slab in- 
scribed in commemoration of "those who were' 



From Occident to Orient and Around the JForld 



the first to meet their death" (during the Mu- 
tiny). Near the porch is a cross to the memory 
of Major Vibart and some seventy others, who, 




INDIAN WOMAN 



after escaping the massacre, were captured at 
Shivrajpur and murdered on July i, 1857-. The 
old church is about 250 yards to the northeast, 



as is also the Club. Some way to the north is 
the Roman Catholic Church, beyond which are 
various regimental and military offices and of- 
ficers' quarters and the Post Office. 

Massacre Ghat is on the river bank about a 
mile below the railway bridge. Steps lead down 
from a decaying temple to Shiva to the water. 
Through the city runs the Ganges canal, a great 
irrigation and engineering work. Starting from 
Hurdwar, it empties itself after a course of some 
800 miles into the Ganges at Cawnpore. 

Memorial Over the Well is one of the most 
beautiful monuments in existence. It stands in 
a lovely garden, within which so many awful 
scenes were enacted. Over the well is a most 
lovely "Angel of Resurrection" in white marble, 
by ]\'Iarochetti, given by Queen Victoria. Over 
the arch is written, "These are they which came 
out of great tribulation," while, round the wall, 
marking the circle of the well, is a longer in- 
scription detailing the iniquitous massacre by 
Nana Dhundu Pant. Around the well is a 
beautiful Gothic screen designed by the late Sir 
H. Yule. In the garden, to which Europeans 
and the caretakers alone have access, are other 
tombs, including those of women and children, 
and of the 6th Battery Bengal Artillery and the 
32d Foot Infantry. 



HOTELS.— Empress Hotel 
Hotel ; United Service Hotel ; 
and Civil and Military Hotel. 



Lee's Railway 
A'ictoria Hotel : 



Lucknow 



THE capital of the province of Oudh, situated 
on the right bank of the Gumti, is forty-two 
miles northeast of Cawnpore, and 675 miles 
northwest of Calcutta by rail. It ranks fourth in 
size among the large cities of India, being only 
surpassed by Calcutta, Madras and Bombay. The 
river here, spanned by three bridges, one of iron, 
is navigable for several miles above the town, and 
below to the Gang'es. The city is 360 feet above 
the sea. From a distance it has an imposing ap- 
pearance, with its domes, minarets, and pinacles, 
but the impression is diminished on a nearer in- 
spection by the squalor of its numerous narrow 
streets and the mean dwellings of the poorer 
natives. The chief public buildings are the Juma 
Musjid or great mosque, the Kaiser Bagh, Chut- 
ter Munzil and Farhat Baksh palaces, and the 
royal mausolea, including the Imambarah, built 
by Asafudaulah, within the Machchi Bhawan, or 
great fort, the latter noted for its splendid west- 
ern entrance, the Rumi Darwazah or Constan- 
tinople Gate. 

Considerable improvements were effected in 
the sanitary conditions during the latter half of 
the nineteenth century, and the city took control 
of the waterworks. Among- the educational in- 



stitutions is a college for half-caste children, sit- 
uated in the La Martiniere, a picturesque build- 
ing erected by Claude Martin, a French private 
soldier who rose to power and wealth under the 
British and native governments. 

The Canning College, founded in 1864, and 
affiliated to the University of Allahabad, has five 
departments ; there are also an observatory, an 
interesting museum, hospital and dispensary, and 
various European mission churches and schools. 
The manufacture of muslins, lace, gold and sil- 
ver brocade, shawls and velvets is carried on : 
large railway workshops have been established 
here, and Lucknow has an extensive trade in 
grain, raw cotton, timber, iron, and the general 
products of the province. Although Lucknow is 
conspicuous by an absence of antiquities, it is 
understood to be older than any other of the 
great Indian cities, and is said to have been 
founded by Lakshmana, brother of Rama. From 
1775 it was the capital of the Kingdom of Oudh 
until the annexation by the British. During the 
mutiny of 1857 Lucknow surpassed every other 
station in the energy and obstinacy of the de- 
fense by the British garrison against the insur- 
gents. Intrenched in the Residency, now one of 



20S 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



the show places of the city for the traveler, for 
twelve weeks 1,700 men held out against a be- 
sieging force of over 10,000, until re-enforced 
in September by new troops under General Have- 
lock and Outram. The siege, however, was not 
raised, but continued until Sir Campbell reached 
the city two months later and enabled the gar- 
rison to withdraw. The city was regained by 
the British in March of the following year. Pop- 
ulation in 1906, 300,000. 

The places of interest to be visited are the old 
Residency, a beauti- 
ful ruin standing on 
the plateau, with the 
Union Jack flying 
from the tower. Just 
before reaching it is 
a building within 
which is a splendid 
model of the Resi- 
dency as it was just 
before the siege be- 
gan. There is an old 
mutiny veteran, who 
passed through the de- 
fense, and who now 
acts as a guide. It is 
well to engage him if 
it is desired to thor- 
oughly grasp the 
story, as the place is 
so totally altered by 

the destruction of the buildings and growth of 
trees that it is most difficult for the visitor to make 
out the positions. The lines of defense are marked 
out by various pillars and tablets, giving the 
names of the positions. It is useless to g'ive these 
in detail ; but a study of the model before going 
around will describe all. From the top of the 
tower an excellent panorama can be obtained of 
the gardens and surrounding country. 

The Great Imambarah is composed of two fine 
quadrangles, the entrance to the first being on the 




INDIAN SN.VKE CH.VRMER 



left of the road. Passing through the first court 
the visitor mounts a flight of steps and enters, 
under a gateway, into the second court. Straight 
before him stands the great hall, 163 feet by 53 
feet. On the right is a handsome mosque, and 
to the left is picturesque "baoli." Though the 
work is stucco, and somewhat tawdry by day- 
light, the general design is fine, and under the 
light of a full moon the place is most beautiful. 
From the roof of the Imambarah a fine view over 
the city is obtained. 

Leaving the Im- 
ambarah the road con- 
tinues under the Rumi 
Gate, one-half mile to 
the west of which is 
the Jumna Musjid, 
the most handsome 
building in Lucknow. 
This road leads past 
a fine set of gardens, 
with a clock tower, 
tank and various 
buildings, including a 
fine hall, in which are 
portraits of the kings 
of Oudh. 

Not far from the 
Jumna ?\Iusjid is the 
Husainabad I m a m - 
barah, built by Mo- 
hammed Ali Shah in 
1837 as his burial place. It is a somewhat 
fantastic building, and fitted with chandeliers 
and many looking glasses. Here may be seen 
the king's throne of beaten silver, and the 
divan with solid silver supports. 



HOTELS.— Royal Hotel, Imperial Hotel, 
Civil and Military Hotel, and Prince of Wales 
Hotel. 

There are several clubs, banks, drugstores and 
newspapers in Lucknow. 



Agra 



A CITY of the Northwest Provinces, situated 
in the district of the same name on the 
right bank of the Jumna, no miles south- 
east of Delhi and 841 miles by rail northwest of 
Calcutta. As the railway and administrative 
centre of its district and the large '"division" to 
which it gives its name, Agra is a place of great 
importance. It has an extensive trade in cotton, 
tobacco, indigo, salt, sugar and grain, and manu- 
factures of inlaid mosaic work (for which it is 
famous), gold lace and shoes. It also has a con- 
siderable transport trade by Jumna and Agra 
Canal. Agra is fortified and has a garrison ; 
there is a military station in the neighborhood of 
the city. 



The ancient walls of the city embrace an area 
of about eleven square miles, of which about 
one-half is at present occupied. The houses are, 
for the most part, built of the red sandstone from 
the neighboring hills. The principal streets run- 
ning northwest from the fort are very spacious, 
but the rest are generally narrow and irregular, 
though clean. The Strand, a thoroughfare on the 
river bank, is two miles long and eight}' feet wide. 

Some of the public buildings, monuments of 
the House of Timur, are of striking" magnifi- 
cence. Among these are the fine fortress built 
by Akbar, within the walls of which are the pal- 
ace and audience hall of Shah Jehan, and the 
Moti Musjid or "Pearl Mosque," so called from 



2og 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



its surpassing architectural beaut}'. Still more 
celebrated is the Taj Mahal, situated without the 
city about a mile to the east of the fort. 

Of British and other European edifices in and 
near the city, the principal are the buildings of 
the Catholic mission and Episcopal See founded 
in the sixteenth century, the government house, 
the college for the education of natives, the Met- 
calf testimonial, the English Church, and the bar- 
racks. A committee appointed by the Govern- 
ment administers municipal affairs, derives rev- 
enue from real estate and octori, and operates the 
waterworks. This city is held in great venera- 



Taj Mahal is one of the principal sights in 
be seen on a tour around the world, and surely 
the most magnificent monument ever erected as 
a symbol of love and human aflfection, by a man 
for a woman, and as all the world loves a lover, 
you will take great interest in visiting this 
temple. Shah Jehan ruled froui 1628 to 1658, 
and had only ascended the throne when his be- 
loved and clearly adored wife Arjmand died. 
He at once resolved to erect to her memory a 
monument that might measure his love and 
grief. 

The Taj is composed of solid marble and is 




■TolinsCon & Hujfiiian, C'lictttta 



THE TAJ M.'VHAL, AGRA 



tion by the Hindoos as the scene of the incarna- 
tion of Vishnu under the name of Parasu Rama. 
It first rose to importance in the beginning of 
the sixteenth century, and from 1526 to 1658 it 
was the Capital of the Mogul sovereigns. In the 
latter year Aurungzebe removed to Delhi; hence- 
forth Agra declined. It. was taken in 1784 by 
Scindia, and surrendered in 1803 to Lord Lake 
after bombardment of a few hours. During the 
Sepoy mutiny of 1857 Agra was one of the 
places in which the Europeans were shut up. 
They were obliged to abandon the city in June 
and retire to the fort or Residency, to which fugi- 
tives also flocked from all parts of the country. 
Most of the European buildings in the city were 
burned down by the Sepoys. 



said to have occupied twenty-two years in build- 
ing, and its cost is variously stated at from 
twenty to sixty millions of dollars. The building 
is octagonal, with sides 130 feet and a height of 
70 feet. It is surmounted by a dome which rises 
to the height of 120 feet above the roof, and is 
flanked by four minarets, 133 feet high. In the 
central chamber, above the vaults, which contain 
the bodies of the emperor and his wife, are two 
centaphs surrounded b}' a fine marble screen. 

The laborers required to construct this won- 
derful montmient came from every part of the 
world — the chief masons from North India and 
Bagdad, the dome builders from Asiatic Turkey, 
the mosaic artists from Persia, and probably 
Italy. Every section of India and Central Asia 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



was drawn upon for material. The great slabs 
of marble, spotless in purity, were brought from 
Jeypore, 300 miles distant, on the backs of ele- 
phants and camels, or by bull carts. The tur- 
quoise came from Tibet and the Red Sea, the 
sapphires and lapis lazuli from Ce_ylon. coral and 
cornelian from Arabia, onyx and amethysts from 
Persia, and the diamonds from Bundelkhand. 

Words cannot properly portray to those who 
have not seen this temple, a description any way 
near comparing with its grandeur ; therefore 
each must view it for himself with his own eyes, 
in his own feeble way, describe the sight. 

The following hotels are available in Agra, 
under European management : Lawrie's and 



Staten's, Hotel Metropole, and Civil and Alili- 
tary. 

Besides the items of interest noted above, the 
country between Agra and Delhi abounds in 
places of historical associations and monuments 
of architectural beauty. And the opening of the 
Agra-Delhi Chord Line, which runs along the 
west bank of the Jumna, brings these spots of 
interest within convenient reach of all tourists or 
visitors, who; by using the railway now eftect a 
saving of time and expense as the trains drop 
passengers at stations from where it is but a 
short carriage excursion to various sights that 
hitherto could only be reached by long and tedi- 
ous drives into the countrv. 



Capital of the division and the district of 
Delhi in the Punjab. It is situated on the right 
bank of the Jumna, in latitude 28° 39' N., and 
longitude /'y° 17' E., from Calcutta and Bombay. 
It is partially surrounded by strong walls with 
bastions and ramparts. The European quarter 
is separated from the rest of the city by a canal. 
The mogul's palace, once one of the most sump- 
tuous architec- 
tural m o n u - I ■ ' <K^ 
m e n t s i n the 
East, of whicii 
only a few 
buildings arc 
left, still showf 
some traces of 
Oriental splen- 
dor. The Jumna 
AIusiid,theprin- 
cipal mosc[ue, i" 
regarded as on? 
of the n o t e - 
worthy build- 
ings of its kind 
in India, bot'i 
on account of 
i t s dimension:- 
and architec- 
ture. It w a ;. 
c o m m e n c e d 
in the seven- 
teenth century 
by Shah Jehan. 
It has a fine 

gateway, surmounted b}' minarets, and massive 
doors decorated with brass arabesques. Other in- 
teresting mosques are those of Roshanudaulah, 
situated in the centre of the Chandni Chauk, the 
principal thoroughfare of Delhi, and surmounted 
by three gilt domes ; the Fatchpuri Mosque, dat- 
ing from the seventeenth centur}' : and the Kalan 
JMusjid, dating from the fourteenth century. 

The city carries on an extensive trade in grain. 



Delhi 

and its bazaars are w«ll stocked with shawls, 
costly embroidered stuffs, and jewelr}'. Delhi is 
an important railway as well as a financial centre. 
Since the demolition of part of the walls, the city 
has begun to assume a more European aspect, 
and it now has good lighting, a drainage system, 
and a good water-supply. Population, 200,000. 
The city of Indraprastha (ancient Delhi), un- 




J'jlnist n £ Hoffman. Calcutta 



NATIVE C.\RT AT DELHI 



rivaled in its splendor among the cities of India, 
was situated on the opposite bank of the river. 
Its original foundations are supposed to date 
from the fifteenth century, B. C. Its remains 
cover an area of about thirty miles in circum- 
ference. The authentic history of Delhi begins 
in 1 193. when the city was taken by the iNIoham- 
medans. It was the centre of a mighty Moham- 
medan monarchy until it was conquered in 1393 



PYRKE'S APOLLO HOTEL 



APOLLO 



Bombay, India 



BiXDER 




APOLLO HOTEL 

'T^HIS hotel is Bombay's leading hotel in point of Cleanliness, Comfort and 
-*- Excellence. Its rooms are modern in equipment and appointment, offering 
exceptional accommodations to the traveling public. Each room has a splendid 
bath attached. The Dining-Room in this hotel is one of the best to be found in 
India, open and airy, with numerous fans. 



NOTICE TO THE TRAVELING PUBLIC 

The author of this book most earnestly recommends this hotel in preference to 
any other in Bombay, owing to the fact that it is the only hotel in the city under 
English management. Its manager, Mr. E. W. Pyrke, has that happy faculty of 
making his guests feel perfectly at home, and supervises their wants with the greatest 
interest. 



THE FOOD IN THIS HOTEL IS BY FAR THE BEST IN INDIA 



Telegraphic Address: 
'EXCELLENCE," BOMBAY, INDIA 



Charges : 
From Six Rupees per Day upwards 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



by.Timur. In 1526 Delhi was taken by Sultan 
Baber, who removed the capital to Agra, but 
under his son, Delhi regained its former rank. 
In the latter part of the sixteenth century the 
city fell almost into decay, as the capital of the 
state was either at Agra or Lahore. Shah Jehan 
began the building' of the modern city in 1638, 
and some of the first edifices of Delhi belong to 
that period. At the beginning of the eighteenth 
century the decline of the Mogul empire affected 
also the city of Delhi. In 1739 it was captured 
by the Persians, and, as a result of an attack by 
the natives on the invading army, many of the 
inhabitants were massacred and the city de- 
spoiled of some of its finest treasures, including 
the Peacock Throne and the Koh-i-Nur diamond. 
In 1789 Delhi was captured by the Mahrattas, in 
whose possession it remained until 1830, when it 
was taken by Lord Lake, and has since remained 
in the possession of the British. 



The uprising of 1857, and subsequent siege of 
the city, form some of the most stirring events 
in the history of the British occupation of India. 

There are a few good hotels in Delhi, among 
which are Maiden's, in the Civil Station, close 
to Ludlow castle ; and Lawrie's Hotel, outside 
the Mori Gate, and the Hotel Cecil, north of the 
club. There are two small rest houses at the 
Kutab, and a good breakfast or lunch may be 
obtained at either; if it is purposed, however, to 
sleep there, bedding must Ise taken. 

From here we travel southwest across India 
to the city of Bombay. There are several places 
along the line where accommodations can be 
procured, but nothing of any great interest to the 
tourist. In making this journey you will travel 
by the "Great Indian Peninsula Railway." Ar- 
riving at Bombay you vi\\\ be astonished to find a 
city of magnificent buildings, broad and clean 
streets, so dififerent from other cities of India. 



Bombay 



The capital of the province of the same name, 
and situated on the former Island of Bombay, 
now a peninsula artificially connected with 
Trombay, Salsette, and other adjacent islands, 
and with the main land. Bombay Island, Iij4 
miles long, from three to four miles broad, has 
an estimated area of twenty-two square miles, 
and with the city forms an administrative dis- 
trict. The city occupies the entire breadth of the 
south end of the island, and has two water 
fronts, one on the outer Back Bay and the other 



by street railways and lined by fine commercial 
establishments of every description, presents a 
thoroughly European aspect. The buildings most 
worthy of note are the town hall, the library of 
the Asiatic Society, the Mint, cathedral and vari- 
ous churches, the University Library, University 
Hall, Custom House, Post Office, public works 
office, missionary houses, the Elphinstone Insti- 
tution, the Grand Medical College, Sassoon's 
High School, the Jamsetjee Hospital, and the 
Jamsetjee Obstetric Hospital. The city possesses 




P.\NOR.\M..\ OF BOMB.W 



on the splendid inner land-locked harbor which 
has an area available for shiping purposes four- 
teen miles long by five miles broad. Bombay is 
the terminus and departing point for various 
European steamship and mail lines, and of the 
Great Indian Peninsula Railway, and of the 
Bombay Baroda and Central India Railway. It 
possesses one of the finest railway depots in the 
world, extensive docks, basins, graving-docks, 
and ship-building slips. The Government Dock- 
yard covers about 200 acres. The principal por- 
tion of the city, with long, wide streets traversed 



a chamber of commerce, two English theatres 
and a native theatre, besides those especially 
noted, numerous other educational, benevolent 
and charitable institutions. Since 1892 the city 
has owned a modern system of water-works, sup- 
plied from Lake Tansa, sixty-five miles north. 
It is lighted with gas and electricity, and owns 
and maintains abattoirs, markets, public swim- 
ming and other baths, gardens, with weekly band 
concerts, and the esplanade, a favorite prom- 
enade. 

The streets of the native quarters are narrow 



213 



From Occident to Orient and Around tlic World 




COTTON CART, BOMBAY 

and winding, but remarkably clean ; and the well- 
stocked bazaars, temples and curiously painted 
houses, thronged by polyglot Oriental crowds, 
present a most picturesque appearance. Besides 
three native newspapers, there are three pub- 
lished in English. 

Always favorably situated for foreign trade, 
Bombay profited largely by the opening of the 
Suez Canal, as saving more distance in propor- 
tion than any other emporium in the East, and 
also as being on the direct line between Madras 
and Calcutta on one side and Aden on the other. 

When the Civil War in the United States 
caused a sudden cessation of American supplies, 
cotton began to be exported from Bombay in 
vast quantities, as India was the only country 
which could, in any material way, supply the 
deficiency, and as prices rose enormously, mone}- 
poured into the city. It is estimated that, be- 
tween 1 86 1 and 1864, Bombay profited to the 
■extent of 375 millions of dollars by the inflated 
values of cotton. The hardy peasantry were so 
dazed by this sudden accession of wealth that, 
as the only means of disposing of it, they shod 
their bullocks and tired their carts with silver. 
Unfortunately, the easily-gotten wealth eng'end- 
ered a period of frantic speculation, and, when 
the bubble burst with the surrender of Lee at 
Richmond, the crash was unparalleled. 

To-day one of the very interesting sights to the 
traveler are the thousands of bull-carts passing 
in an endless chain, continuously night and day, 
loaded high with huge bales of cotton, being- 
transported from the cars and boats to the weav- 
ing mills or storehouses. 

More than eighty of these great weaving mills 
are in operation now, containing 26,000,000 



.'^pindles, in addition to 
23,000 looms, w h i c h 
e m p 1 o y over 100.000 
]5eople. 

The Portuguese 
visited Bombay in 1509, 
about a }-ear before the 
capture of Coa, and bv 
1530 it had pas.scd into 
their possession. In 
1661 the island w a s 
ceded to Charles II, of 
England, as a part of 
the dowry of liis bride, 
the Infanta Catharine. 

The visitor to Bom- 
bay should not miss an 
opportunity t o w a 1 k 
through one of the 
crowded native streets, 
or to visit the Arab 
stables where m a n v 
beautiful horses may be 
seen. The street scenes 
are remarkably inter- 
esting owing to the numerous races and castes 
of the many different people of the East who 
throng its ways. The Hindus, distinguished bv 
their gaudy colored turbans of all shapes and 
sizes ; the Mohammedans by their harsher fea- 
tures and small white caps, or gold embroidered 
turbans ; and the swaggering gait, hook nose, 
reveals the Pathan from the Northern Frontier. 
Here, too, the flat-nosed Sidi from Africa jostles 




KIPLING S DUNGADEEN 



2T4 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



the' Chinaman ; and the tall, lean, sombre-visaged 
Sike strides along regardless of the throng by 
which he is surrounded. 

The Parsees predominate in a business way ; 




tall, stately, dignified, with quiet piercing gaze 
from their open countenance, and easily dis- 
tinguished b_v their quaint, shining, black tur- 




PARSEE WOMAN 



Tjans. Exiled from Persia centuries ago, these 
enterprising people have obtained a unique 
predominance in India under the British, and 



the}- number to-day in all of the East about 
100,000. 

Another sight which will attract your atten- 
tion, and make you think of centuries ago co- 
equal with Christ's time, are the numerous water 
carriers passing along the streets, or at the hy- 
drants, laden with swollen mussucks, carrying 
water to their abodes. 

MALABAR HILL.— To the sight-seef this 
drive is well worth taking. In an open victoria 
the tourist passes along the beautiful drive skirt- 
ing Back Bay, its waters rippling' over the shin- 
ing sand ; and you climb the hill, with its fine 
bungalows embowered in tropical vegetation. 
At the summit you will reach a beautiful spot 
known as the Hanging Gardens, built over one 
of the water reservoirs, and from here you have 
a magnificent panorama which is not surpassed 
in India. You look down upon a maze of 
houses, myriads of narrow streets, like strips of 
colored ribbon, twisted and turned into endless 
labyrinths. While at your feet, 300 feet below, 
the harbor stretches out in a silvery glow, backed 
and bordered bv the distant hills. 




TOWER OF SILENCE 

TOWER OF SILENCE.— The Parsee rites 
connected with death have remained most indi- 
vidual and striking. As is well known they 
expose the bodies of their dead on Dakhmas, or 
Towers of Silence, to be devoured by vultures. 
Scrupulous care is taken to preserve the ele- 
ments, earth, fire and water from defilement, 
especially from dead matter. 

The Tower of Silence occupies a beautiful spot 
near the Hanging Gardens on Malabar Hill, em- 
bowered with graceful palms and flowers of all 
kinds that constantly fill the air with their fra- 
grance. The towers are five in number, com- 
posed of stone masonry, 275 feet in circumfer- 
ence and 25 feet high. These towers are sur- 
rounded by an outer wall and the area within 
covers 75,000 square feet. 



21S 



Prince of Wales Hotel 



W. H. FORD, Proprietor 



Behind Madras Club, - Royapettah 

Considered by all to be the cleanest and best kept Hotel in Madras. English Cows, assuring 
pure and fresh milk and butter. Entirely under European management. Terms moderate. 
Special terms for permanent boarders. 




HOTEL AND GARDEN 



WKat ttie Guests of the Hotel Have Said 

Thos. Cook & Sons, Bombay. March 7, 1907. 

Gentlemen — 

We have been well pleased with our accommodations at the "Prince of Wales" Hotel. The Hotel is 
particularly clean and well managed. The table is exceptionally good. Our stay has been very pleasant 
and we leave with reluctance. Yours truly. 

Char. W. Roberts Mrs. Collins McArthur 
T. W. Harrow E. G. Williamson 

M. Dauthenday 

Wurburg, Germany 
March 12, 1907. 

I have stayed here since the first of the year and have been very comfortable; both Mr. and 'Mrs. Ford 
have been most obliging and always most keen to promote the comforts of their occupants; it has been a 
case of " ask, and ye shall receive" instead of applying to the Madras Servants with whom we all experience 
great difficulty. I only hope the Prince of Wales Hotel, under Mrs. Ford's management, is ever successful.' 

G. Baugh, Commander Royal Indian, Marine.' 



November 8th, 1906. 

I have stayed for several days in this excellent and perfect Hote 
spects the best recollection of comfort and politeness. 



and I take a.vay with me in all re- 
Count Al. Baillehache. 



216 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 

A't the base of each tower there is an opening the}' are capable of distinguishing a funeral pro- 

on the ground level through which the corpse cession more than a mile away ; and a single cry 

bearers are the only persons allowed to enter the from one of these vultures always brings an 

towers, but there is an excellent model in the enormous number of others to wait with eager 

grounds, which is generally shown to visitors, eyes for the body to arrive. When the corpse is 

The inner portion of the tower has a circular placed inside, and the doors closed, there is a 

masonry platform with three rows of deep mighty whirl of wings and rushing of wind like 

grooves ; the bodies of young children are laid an approaching storm, and in a moment thou- 

in the centre circle, females in the second, and sands are fighting in keen competition over the 

men in the outer. body, which is completely stripped of its flesh 

The walls and neighboring trees are thronged within thirty minutes, when the loathsome birds 

with these sleepy-looking vultures waiting pa- resume their watch from the edge of the tower 

tiently for the approach of the funeral pyre, and for the next bod)'. 

Information Concerning Madras 

THE Portuguese founded Saint Thome in 1504, but Madras dates from a grant of land 
made by the Rajah of Chandragi to a British subject in 1639, and the construction of a for- 
tified factory. 

The Presidency of Madras was established in 1653. In 1746 Madras was captured by the 
French, but was restored two years later under the treaty of Aix-la-Chapelle. In 1749 Saint 
Thome was annexed by the English. Madras was again beseiged, but unsuccessfully, by the 
French in 1758. 

POPULATION in 1901 was over 600,000, of which 79 per cent, were Hindus, 12 per cent. 
Mohammedans and 9 per cent. Christians. 

HOTELS. — There are three very good hotels, where the traveler may find all the com- 
forts necessary for a few days' rest; they are: The Castle Hotel, on Mount Road; The Conne- 
mara, also located on Mount Road, and the Prince of Wales, situated just back of the 
Madras Club. 

CONVEYANCES. — The hackney carriage is used the same as at other places throughout 
India. The cost for a day, from 6 A. M. to 6 P. M., is 4 rupees. For half a day, six hours, 
2 rupees ; or by the mile at the following rate : First-class conveyance, first mile, 8 annas, and 
for every subsequent mile, 4 annas. The traveler should observe this fee, for the drivers will 
in all cases demand more. 

RAILWAY FACILITIES. — Two railways run into the city, and one has its terminal 
there. From Madras south to the end of the peninsula there is excellent accommodation by 
the South India Railroad, which is the most comfortably equipped and liberally managed 
railroad in India. This progressive company has established excellent furnished rooms with 
porcelain bath, etc., at the different points along their line where there are objects of interest, 
enabling the traveler to stop off at these places and have use of these rooms, which are far 
better than those found in the principal hotels of India. The traveler should not miss this 
trip through the southern part of India for it contains some of the most remarkable temples 
in the world. 

RAILWAY STATIONS. — In Madras this company has six stations as follows: Beach 
station, Park, Fort, Egmore, Chetpat and Kodambakam. 

PHOTOGRAPHS AND PHOTOGRAPHIC SUPPLIES.— The traveler interested in 
the scenic or characteristic views of India, or of the temples of Southern India, should by all 
means call upon Messrs. R. Venkiah Brothers, at 161 Mount Road, who have a magnificent 
collection of views. 

OBJECTS OF INTEREST. 

School of Art Gun Carriage Factory 

The People's Park Victoria Public Hall 

Munroe's Statue Napier Park 

Memorial Hall Pachaiyappa's Hall 

High Court and Law College Fort Saint George 

Lord Cromwall's Statue Chepauk Park and Palace 

The Senate House Presidency College 

Government House Government Museum 

Government Observatory Agri-Horticultural Society's Gardens 

217 



THE CASTLE HOTEL 

MOUNT ROAD, MADRAS 



^ This charming httle hotel is most centrally 
situated in a beautifully shaded park, and the 
building is surrounded with a profusion of 
flowers and tropical foliage. 



^ This Hotel is the coolest and quietest of all 
in Madras, and its verandas shaded by stately 
Banyan trees afford the visitor the most ideal 
spot in which to recline and rest. 




TESTIMONIALS 

" We stayed here, Mrs. Stewart, my daughter and self, for a week ; we found everything most 
comfortable and clean, and the Proprietor, Mr. Frost, most attentive and obliging." 

H. S. STEWART, 

Major-Qeneral, I. S. C. 



" I have stayed at the Castle Hotel for the last five months and have had a very good room. 
Everything is very clean at this Hotel. It is, no doubt, better than any other in Madras." 

W. C. CURRY. 



218 



From Occident to Orient and Aronnd the World 



Madras, India 



A SEAPORT city, and capital of the Prov- 
ince of Madras, Britisli India, situated on 
the Coromandel coast of the western shore 
of the Bay of Bengal, 835 miles southwest of 
Bombay. It is the third city in size and impor- 
tance of India, and has railroad and telegraph 
communications by the main systems with the 
principal towns of the Empire, but though much 
has been done to improve its harbor facilities, it 
is no longer a port of call for the principal 
European lines of ocean steamers, owing to the 
insecurity of its harbor. The city and its nine 
suburbs cover an area of twenty-nine square 
miles, extending along the coast for nine miles 
and inland for nearly four. Centrally situated 
on the shore is Fort Saint George, strongly forti- 
fied and garrisoned by European and native 
troops and containing the council house, civil and 
military offices, and Saint Mary's, the oldest 
English church in India, dating from 1678. Ad- 
joining the fort on the north is the commercial 
district of Black Town, a low-lying, poorly built, 
and densely populated quarter, covering an area 
of a square mile, protected from inundation by 
a strong sea wall. Here are situated the mer- 
cantile establishments, the Bank of Madras, the 
post-office and the High Court, now occupied bv 
the customs offices, its tower with a modern in- 
stallation serving as the lighthouse for the harbor 
which extends along the larger portion of the 
water front of Black Town. To the south and 
rear of the fort is the island, formed by the en- 
circling Cooum River, containing barracks and 
forming an extensive military parade and recrea- 
tion ground. It connects by bridge on the north 
with the People's Park, and on the west and 
south with the residential section, where are sit- 
uated the handsome Governmentt House, the 
clubs, marine parade, the Chepauk Park and 
buildings, the Scotch Church of Saint Andrew, 
the fine university buildings, and the native hos- 
pital. 



On the Mount Road, commanding a magnifi- 
cent view of the city and vicinity, is Saint 
George's Cathedral, containing several beautiful 
monuments by Chantry and Flaxman. Other 
noteworthy features are the New Law Court 
building in a Hindu-Saracenic style of architec- 
ture, opened in 1892, the new Law College, the 
Christian College buildings, Pacheappah's Col- 
lege and hall, the memorial hall, the grand ar- 
senal, with an interesting military museum, the 
observatory founded in 1792, which gives stand- 
ard time to all India, and several native mosques 
and temples. 

The southernmost extension of Madras is the 
old Portuguese town of Saint Thome, near the 
Adyar River, with the ancient Roman Cathedral 
of Saint Thome, said to contain the remains of 
Saint Thomas. There are several charitable and 
benevolent institutions, and Madras is noted for 
its educational establishments, which include the 
university, founded in 1857, colleges of agricul- 
ture, of engineering, medicine and law, a teach- 
ers' college, six missionary colleges, Victoria 
Technical Institute, a Government school of arts, 
a valuable museum, libraries, zoological and 
botanical gardens, and literary and scientific in- 
stitutions. 

The city's affairs are administered under a 
charter of 1884, by thirty-two commissioners, 
eight, including a salaried president, being ap- 
pointed by the provincial authorities and twenty- 
four being elected by the rate-payers. Madras 
has undergone much modern improvement ; it has 
a good reservoir water-suppi)', conveyed from a 
distance of seven miles, and a sewage farm dis- 
posal system, and is lighted by gas and electricity. 

[Madras has several excellent drives, and the 
traveler cannot see the city and points to better 
advantage than to procure a carriage and drive 
about the citv. 



Trichinopoly 



THE capital of a district of Madras, on the 
right bank of the Kaveri, below the island 
of Srirangam, fifty-six miles from the sea, 
and 250 miles southwest of Madras, on the South 
India Railway. The old town, now inclosed by 
boulevards, stands at the base and on the rugged 
slope of a gigantic rock 273 feet high, crowned 
by a temple, a much frequented pilgrimage 
shrine. The native town is inhabited by a dense 
population dwelling in low, closely packed huts. 
The chief buildings are the former Nawab's pal- 
ace, now restored and used as Government offices. 



Another very fine building is the headquarters of 
the South India Railway Company's offices. 
There are several Protestant missions and a col- 
lege, and also a Jesuit college. Beyond the 
boulevards is Saint John's Anglican Church, con- 
taining the tomb of Bishop Heber, who died here 
in 1826; to the south near Golden Rock, a hill 
about one hundred feet high, is the central jail, 
one of the largest buildings of its kind in Madras. 
Cheroots are manufactured in large quantities 
from excellent tobacco grown in the vicinity. 
Weaving and the manufacture of hardware, cut- 



219 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



lery, jewelry, gold chains, harness and saddlery 
are extensively carried on. Trichinopoly was 
governed by a line of rajahs that died out in 
1732 when it came under the rule of the Nawab 
of Arcot. It came under British control in 1801 
with the rest of the region. 

Population, in 1891, 90,609; in 1901, 104,690. 

ROAD CONVEYANCES.— At the station 
hackney carriages, jutkas and bullock-carts are 
procurable, the fares being: 



Rs, 

Palaquin carriage j 2 

Broughams | 3 

Victoria, single , 3 

Victoria, double 6 

Jutkas 

Bull carts 




A guide is generally at the station, who will 
show the sights of the town. His charge is 
Rs. 3 per diem. 



RAILWAY FACILITIES.— At the station, 
waiting accommodation is provided for first and 
second-class passengers. There is also a refresh- 
ment room under the management of Messrs. 
Spencer & Co., the butler in charge usually has 
a few copies of the latest papers for sale, as well 
as a small stock of travelers' requisites. On the 
floor of the station building are two rooms fur- 
nished for sleeping, each of which contains two 
beds. The charge for the use of these rooms are : 

Rs. A. p. 

For each person not exceeding 8 hours i o o 

For each person exceeding 8 hours, but not exceed- 
ing 24 hours 2 o o 

For each person for any portion of a day after the 

first 24 hours 3 o o 

Children not exceeding 12 years, half the above 

charges 

Electric punkash for first 8 hours or less 6 o 

Electric punkahs for each subsequent hour i o 

Punkah pullers for 8 hours where there are no elec- 
tric fans 6 o 

Hot water bath o 4 o 

Cold. o 2 o 

OBJECTS OF INTEREST.— There are sev- 
eral of the most remarkable and historical 
temples of South India here. For full descrip- 
tions see "South India Railway Guide." 



Madura 



LATITUDE 9° 55' N., longitude 78° 10' E. 
is situated 440 feet above sea-level and con 
tains 105,984 inhabitants. It is the prin- 
cipal town of a collectorate _ 
of the same name, and from 
time immemorial has been 
the political and religious 
capital of the extreme south 
of India. The ancient Pan- 
dyan kings made it their 
seat of government and it 
remained the metropolis of 
the Empire for many years. 
In the second century 
Vamsa Sekhara estabHshed 
in the city a celebrated col- 
lege which existed until the 
eighth century and made 
Madura the great seat of 
Tamil learning. The town, 
which is situated on the ! 
Vaigai River, was well 
known to the Greeks and 
Romans, being mentioned 
by several classical writers. 
Commercial relations must 
have existed with the West- 
ern markets, as several Ro- 
man copper coins have been 
found in the bed of the 
river. 

The line to Pamban and 
Ramaswaram takes off at 
this station. temple madura 




LOCAL ACCOMMODATION.— Close to 

the station is a traveler's bungalow which is fully 
furnished and can accommodate four persons at 
one time. The butler in 
charge can arrange to sup- 
ply meals, if required, but 
wines or spirits must be 
privately arranged for. 
The charge for the use of 
the bungalow is one rupee 
for each person per diem. 
For natives many choultries 
and hotels exist in differ- 
ent parts of the town. Free 
lodging can be obtained at 
the former ; meals are 
served at from 23^ to 3 
annas each at the latter. 



RAILWAY FACILI- 
TIES. — Waiting accom- 
modations are provided at 
the station for first and 
s e c o n d-glass passengers. 
There is also a refreshment 
room in the station build- 
ing where you can get ex- 
cellent meals. Sleeping ac- 
commodation for European 
passengers is provided in 
the upper story of the sta- 
tion house, the terms be- 
ing the same as at Trichi- 
nopoly. 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



LOCAL MANUFACTURES.— Muslins of 

a very delicate texture, in to which gold lace is 
interwoven, are made, also turbans and pug- 
garees embroidered with gold thread, and silk 
cloth. Madura is also noted for its wood carving 
and brass work. Handsome tables are carved 
in blackwood, and, in adition to the ordinary 
brass work, animals, insects, etc., are made in 
that metal. The goldsmiths and silversmiths also 
do excellent work, and the tourist will find here 
specimens of very fine Indian workmanship. 



ROAD CONVEYANCES.— Hackney car- 
riages, jutkas and bull-carts can be procured at 
the station, but, if a hackney carriage is required, 
previous advice should be sent. The follcrwing is 
the charge : 

Rs. A. p. 

Landau with pair of horses 7 o o per diem 

Landau with pair of horses 4 o o per one-half day 

Brougham with pair of horses 6 o o per diem 

Broufiham with pair of horses 3 8 o per one-half hay 

Phaeton with single horse 3 o o per diem 

Phaeton with single horse 2 o o per one-half day 

Jutkas or bullock-cart o 3 o per mile 

A guide can be procured at the station to show 
the sights of the town. There is one, a very 
bright and intelligent man, whom the traveler 
should ask for. His name is "Paramanandam," 
and may be found at Lala's House, on North 
Masi Street. His charge is 3 rupees per diem. 



FAIRS AND FESTIVALS.— Fairs are held 
every Thursday and Sunday; and festivals are 
frequent at the temple ; the most important being 
the "Chittrai," which is celebrated in April or 
May annually, and the great floating festival is 
held in the month of January or February. 

MISSIONS AND CHURCHES.— Christian- 
ity is making rapid progress in the district of 
Madura. A Jesuit Church was founded about 
the beginning of the seventeenth century, when a 
Portuguese priest ministered to a small congre- 
gation of fishermen, converted by St. Francis 
Xavier in 1606. Robert de Nobilibus came to 
Madura, adopting the life, diet and dress of a 
religious devotee. He founded the flourishing 
mission which is now said to number 70,000 con- 
verts. The American Mission was established 
in 1834, and is at present in a very flourishing 
condition, having two churches, one high school 
and a large hospital in the town of Madura itself, 
besides an important college at Pasumalai, 23^ 
miles from Madura. About three-quarters of a 
mile from the station is a church belonging to 
the Church of England, in which service is held 
once a month by the Chaplain of Trichinopoly. 

OBJECTS OF INTEREST.— See South In- 
dian Railway Guide. 



Tut 



LATITUDE 8° 48' N.; height above sea- 
level, 6 feet ; population, 28,048 ; the termi- 
nus of the branch line of the South Indian 
Railway, is a municipal town in the Ottapidaram 
taluq of the Tinnevelli district, situated on the 
northwest shore of the Gulf of ^Manar and be- 
tween the mouths of the Tambraparni and the 
Veippaar. Tuticorin is the chief port of the dis- 
trict, affording good shelter for small boats ; but, 
owing to the extreme shallowness of the water, 
steamers of even moderate draught have to 
anchor from five to six miles from the shore. 

LOCAL ACCOMMODATION.— The Brit- 
ish India Hotel, immediately opposite the station, 
has accommodation for three first-class and two 
second-class visitors. The charge for board and 
lodging is : 

First class 4. Rupees 8 annas 

Second class 3 Rupees o annas 

ROAD CONVEYANCES.— Carriages and 
jutkas are usually procurable at the station, the 
fares being eight and two annas per mile, re- 
spectively. Bullock-carts can be hired in the 
town, the charge being two annas per mile. 

RAILWAY FACILITIES.— First and sec- 
ond-class carriages are run to and from the pier 



icorin 

in connection with the departure and arrival of 
mail steamers to and from Colombo. Waiting 
accommodation is provided at the station for 
ladies and gentlemen, and there is also a refresh- 
ment room under the management of Messrs. 
Spencer & Co. In case of a late arrival of the 
Colombo steamer, Messrs. Spencer & Co. can 
generally arrange to serve breakfast in the train. 
Ice and aerated waters are carried by all main 
line trains during the journey, and can be pro- 
cured at reasonable prices. 

SHIPPING ARRANGEMENTS.— A Brit- 
ish India Steam Navigation Company's steamer 
leaves daily at 5 P. M. for Colombo, and one 
arrives from Ceylon daily at about 8 A. M., the 
passage occupying about sixteen hours. The 
journey between the pier and steamer is made in 
a steam launch belonging to the British India S. 
N. Company at Tuticorin, and occupies about 
three-quarters of an hour. For further particu- 
lars, in connection with the launch service, the 
South Indian Guide should be consulted. The 
B. I. S. N. Company's coasting steamers between 
Calcutta and Bombay touch at Tuticorin once 
a week. The Asiatic Company's steamers, 
and those of the Japanese line also call at the 
port. 



From Occident to Orient and Aronnd the World 

LOCAL MANUFACTURE AND PROD- fished for in March. April and May under Gov- 

UCTS. — There is a large Government salt ernment management. 

factory about a mile and a half from the station. Historical Tuticorin was originally a Portu- 

with which it is connected by a siding from the guese settlement, founded about 1540. In 1658 

main rail line. In the town are several cotton it was captured by the Dutch, and in 1872 by the 

presses and an important spinning mill. Tuti- English. It was restored to the Dutch in 1785 

corin is the centre of very ancient pearl and and again taken by the English in 1795. Dur- 

conch-shell fisheries, but since the deepening of ing the Poligar war of 1801, it was held for a 

the Pamban channel between India and Ceylon, short time by the Poligar of Panchalamkurishi 

the yield has greatly decreased. The Manar and was ceded to the Dutch in 1818. It was 

pearl, which is not of a good color, is usually finally handed over to the English in 1825. 

Information Concerning Colombo 

IT is the capital and chief seaport of Ceylon, situated on the western coast of the island, in 
latitude 6° 54' N., and longitude 79° 51' E. Colombo is one of the most important coal- 
ing-stations for British and foreign steamers on the Australian and East Asiatic routes, 
and is a port of embarking for India. The city was founded by the Portuguese in 151 7, was 
taken by the Dutch in 1656, and by the British in 1796. 

POPULATION, in 1901, was 158,093, including about 5,000 Europeans, chiefly English- 
men and descendants of the Dutch. 

POINTS OF INTEREST.— There is not much to interest the traveler, aside from its 
beautiful parks, drives, etc. From here you take the train for the mountain resort of Kandy, 
the main point of interest in the island, surrounded with ancient ruins and the buried cities 
of Ceylon. Fare by rail to Kandy, 6 rupees; return ticket, 9 rupees. 

PHOTOGRAPHIC SUPPLIES.— Tourists and travelers wishing films, etc., may procure 
same at F. Skeen & Co.'s studio. This firm has made a specialty of Ceylon scenery, and has the 
finest collection of views and characteristic pictures of the natives to be found in the East. 
They also have a most elaborate set of views showing the m.ethcd of tea culture and rubber 
manufacture and gathering, besides various other industries. 

THOMAS COOK & SONS. — Travelers are earnestly requested to apply at Cook's, if thay 
wish to make any of the trips into the interior, for their arrangements for rates are much 
cheaper than you could procure yourself. 

A TRIP AROUND THE ISLAND via the Ceylon Steamship Com.pany's steamers, 
leaving Colombo every Wednesday, calling at Paumben, Jaffna, and at Trincomalee (until 
recently the headquarters of the ships of the Royal Navy on the East India Station, and one 
of the most magnificent harbors in the world). Batticaloa, Hambantotta, and Galle, occupies 
about nine days. Passage tickets obtainable at Cook's office. Round trip, first class, 125 rupees. 

CAUTION. — The traveler, unless an expert judge, should be very cautious in purchasing 
stones offered by the native venders who constantly throng about your hotel. There is not 
a reliable dealer in the city, and if you wish to make a purchase, you should first consult 
some one who has a knowledge of values. 

GUIDES. — There are guides licensed by the municipal government, and their fee is as 
follows : For the first hour or portion thereof, 50 cents. For every additional hour or portion 
thereof, 25 cents. The regulation uniform of these guides is a blue serge coat with green 
facings, and the badge bearing their license number pinned on their left breast. 

BOAT AND BAGGAGE TARIFF.— Boat from landing jetty to any vessel in the harbor, 
25 cents, or vice versa. From one vessel to another within tha breakwater, 25 cents. BAG- 
GAGE. — Light packages carried by one coolie from jetty to carriage, 4 cents ; jetty to hotel, 
6 cents, jetty to any other place in port, 12 cents. Trunks from jetty, requiring more than one 
coolie, to carriage, 10 cents. Trunks requiring two coolies to any place in port, 25 cents. 

CARRIAGES. — For a first-class carriage drawn by one horse : From 6 A. M. to 7 P. M., 
4.50 rupees; for any six consecutive hours between 6 A. M. and 7 P. M., 2.50 rupees; for half 
an hour, .50 rupee ; for one hour, i rupee ; for every subsequent hour or portion thereof, .50 
rupee. 



From Occident to Orient and Around the IV'orld 

jrNRIKISHAS. — Not exceeding ten minutes, 20 cents ; exceeding ten minutes but not 
exceeding one-half hour, 25 cents ; exceeding one-half hour but not exceeding one hour, 50 
cents; for each subsequent half hour, 10 cents. 

NIGHT FARES. — Between 7 P. M. and 6 A. M. an additional charge of 5 cents in the 
case of hiring not exceeding one-half hour, and 10 cents in case of hiring exceeding an hour, 
over and above the day fares. 

HOTELS. — There are several, but only one which can be recommended to fill the trav- 
eler's wants in the way of comfort and quietness, and by far the coolest hotel in the Far East — 
that is the Galle Face Hotel, situated five minutes by rickshaw from w^here you land, facing 
the sea on Galle Face Promenade. 

CURRENCY. — Rupee of 100 cents. In exchange, i rupee equals about is. 4d., or 33 cents 
United States currency. 

HOW TO GET THERE FROM COLOMBO: 

Bare. 

Calcutta British India S. N. Co Fortnightly Various. 

Calcutta Peninsula & Oriental S. N. Co. . . Fortnightly Various. 

Tuticorin, S. India. British India S. N. Co Daily . . First Class, 20 rupees. 

Bombay, India. . . . Messageries Maritime S. S. Co . . Fortnightly Various. 

Australia North German Lloyd Every 25 days Various. 

Australia Messageries Maritime S. S. Co . . Every 25 days Various. 

Europe Messageries Maritime S. S. Co . . Every 12 days 

Europe Peninsula & Oriental S. N. Co. . . Every 15 days 

Europe North German Lloyd Every 10 days 



DISTANCES FROM COLOMBO TO 



Miles 

Calcutta 1,260 

Port Said 3,488 



Miles 

Bombay 857 

Hongkong 3.096 



From India to Ceylon 



WITH a sigh of relief of having been 
freed from the sound of that word 
Sahib, Sahib, you board the steamer and 
recede from the great continent of India, so 
often referred to as the brightest jewel in Eng- 
land's crown. You will surely enjoy a com- 
fortable night's rest in the refreshing sea atmos- 
phere, in relaxation only,, for through your mind 
will flit visions of the maimed, the halt, thc- 



blind, and those numberless starving creatures 
who constantly accosted you during your travels 
through that appropriately named "Beggars' 
Land'' of India. 

At early dawn you look upon the sun-kissed 
horizon the green-fringed Island of Ceylon, 
spoken of as the "Paradise of Palms, Pearls and 
Perfumery," and within a very short time your 
ship is at anchor in the picturesque harbor of 



Colombo 



THE capital and chief sea-port of Ceylon, 
situated on the western coast of the island, 
on a rocky headland. The European part 
of the city is magnificently laid out, with broad 
avenues shaded by tropical trees and lined by 
modern buildings of fine architecture. The busi- 
ness part of the European city occupies the site 
of an old Dutch fort, and is still known as the 
"Fort." Its chief thoroughfare is Queen Street, 
on which are situated the palace of the governor, 
the chief mercantile houses and banks, and the 
post-office, the finest public building on the island. 
The residential section of the European city 



covers an area of about twenty square miles. 
The part nearest to the water is occupied by 
numerous clubs, with all the accessories of their 
English prototypes, such as golf-links, cricket- 
grounds, race-courses, etc. Farther inland it is 
crossed by beautiful roads bordered with bun- 
galows embosomed in luxuriant gardens. The 
native part of the city, or Pettah, is dirty and 
crowded, with crooked and narrow streets, a'- 
ways thronged with motley crowds of different 
types and nationalities. 

Colombo owes its commercial importance 
chieflv to its artificial breakwater, one of the 



223 



GALLE FACE HOTEL 

Colombo, Ceylon 



A New 

First-class 

House with 

Admirable 

Accomodations 

for 

250 Guests 





Five minutes' drive from 
the landing jetty and rail- 
way terminus. Situated 
beautifully by the sea and 
Galle Face Esplanade at the 
entrance of Cinnamon Gar- 
dens; its position is unri- 
valled, so is its superiority 
in comfort. French cuisine 
and general excellence of 
arrangements. 



Recognized as the cool- 
est hotel in Ceylon. All 
bedrooms with electric 
fans. 



Lift, Telephone. Sea 
water swimming bath on 
the hotel premises. Illu- 
minated garden where a 
military band performs ; 
dancing once a week. 



For terms, apply to CONRAD PETER, Manager 



224 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



largest structures of its kind. It has a length of 
4,000 feet, and shelters a water area of 500 acres. 
Begun in 1875, it is still uncompleted, the north- 
ern arm and the graving dock still being in 
process of construction. The shipping of the 
port of Colombo is very extensive, amounting to 
about 3.500,000 tons annually. 

Colombo is one of the most important coaling 
stations for British and foreign steamers on the 
Austrialian and East Asiatic routes. Almost 
all the staples of the island find their outlet 
through Colombo, which is also the centre of 
cocoanut, tea and several other industries. It 
is connected with Kandy and Pointe-de-Galle by 
railway. It is the seat of a United States Con- 
sulate. The name of Colombo is derived from 
Columbus. Upon the arrival of the Portuguese, 
in 15 17. the native Kalambu merged into Ko- 
lamba. or Columbu, which they henceforth wrote 
Colombo, in honor of Christopher Columbus. 

There is nothing of special interest for the 
tourist or traveler to see in Colombo, aside from 
a few pleasant hours spent in driving' or walk- 
ing about its beautiful parks and palm-fringed 
roadways. Colombo is most conveniently situ- 
ated for passengers who may decide to break a 
sea voyage for the rest a fortnight's stay on 
shore affords : and for the purpose of paying a 
visit to the numerous places throughout the 
island, or to cross over to India and Burma by 
the various available routes. 

A visit to the native city may be found inter- 
esting, for, while the people were originally from 
India, their surroundings and conditions have 
caused them to adopt different customs and 
habits, and different modes of doing things, and 
therefore a study of these people will afford vari - 
'ation. In the native quarters are to be seen 
many different races : Afghans, Parsees, JMalays, 
Portuguese, Dutch, Tamils, IMoors. Singalese 
and half-castes, all attired in strange and gor- 
geous dress and undress. 

This heterogeneous throng of Orientals ply 
their dift'erent trades in the open, their houses 
having no windows or doors to obstruct the in- 
terior view of their houses. The sleepy rice 
merchant sits in the midday sun, with his stock 
in trade heaped in front of him on a pile at the 
edge of the street, and as he surveys his custom- 
ers, numerous naked children play in the rice, 
allowing the white grains to trickle between their 
toes. 

In a portion of this native city you will visit a 
•street so crowded that only with great difficulty 
your carriage passes through. This is the home 
of the Chetties, the Indian Brokers (Wall Street 
of Colombo), and the people are distinguished 
"by their towering figures, ash-marked faces, and 
cocoanut-oil polished bodies, their garment usu- 
ally consisting of a piece of cotton that girdles 
their loins, and the end is thrown loosely over 
the shoulder. You would certainly think that 



these people were numbered among God's unfor- 
tunate, and that they were penniless, but quite 
the contrary, for all of them count their money 
by the hundreds of thousands. The}' are keen 
and never lend money for less than ten per cent, 
per month. 

POINTS OF INTEREST.— The visitor will 
find the following places well worthy a visit: 
The Pettah (Native Town), crowded with great 
varieties of races : the Buddhist Temple Kelani ; 
the Museum in Mctoria Park, to which has 
recently been added small collections of live wild 
Ceylon animals : the Cinnamon Gardens, and 
Mount Lavinia. etc. 

HOTELS. — Colombo has been more fortu- 
nate than the cities of India across the way ; it 
has one hotel which can supply all the require- 




CEYLON GIRL 

ments necessary to complete the comfort of the 
traveler. This is the "Galle Face Hotel." ; 

It is a new first-class house with admirable; 
accommodations for 250 guests. Situated most 
beautifully by the sea and at the south end of 
Galle Face Esplanade, Colombo's favorite con- 
sort, near the entrance to the "Cinnamon Gar- 
dens" : its position is unrivaled, so is its super- 
iority in comfort. 

This hotel is but five minutes' walk or ride 
by rickshaw from your landing jetty and rail- 
way station, and deserves special notice, owing 
to the fact it is among the best in the Orient. 
It is fitted in luxuriant Oriental style as perfect 



From Occident to Orient and Around ihc li'orld 



as can be obtained, and receives the constant 
sweep of the cool refreshing breeze from the sea 
which laves its very base. This hotel is managed 
along modern lines, being equipped with all the 
latest appliances, as lifts, telephones and call 
bells, and each bedroom has an electric fan. One 
of the most enjoyable features of this hotel is the 
large sea water swimming bath on the premises 
where guests can enjoy an early morning plunge. 
The Grand Oriental Hotel, or more familiarly 
known as the G. O. H., is not conducted so liber- 
ally as its rival. The management is exception- 
ally independent, and imbued with the idea that 
the traveling public is under obligations for the 
privilege of remaining under its roof. 



The traveler will find this hotel a very unde- 
sirable place owing to its close proximity to the 
stench and filth of Colombo's water front, which 
draws thousands upon thousands of crows who 
constantly swarm about the hotel, making early 
morning sleep almost impossible. Besides, the 
verandas of the hotel are the rendezvous for In- 
dian fakirs, snake charmers and hordes of un- 
couth-looking natives, who persistently surround 
you in their endeavor to sell you so-called pre- 
cious stones of Ceylon. Rest upon the verandas 
of this hotel is impossible, and as a last resort to 
free yourself from these persistent human para- 
sites you fly to your sweltering room to get a few 
moments' peace. 



PLACES OF INTEREST WITHIN EASY ACCESS OF COLOMBO. 



Kandy. — Kandy, the mountain capital, 74j4 
miles from Colombo, charmingly situated in a 
natural basin, is famous for the exquisite scenery 
of the amphitheatre of hills rising over it. Its 
pretty ornamental lake adds beauty to the town, 
which for natural and artificial adornments can 
hardly be surpassed. 

In the "Oueen's" and Florence Villa Hotel it 



are fully dealt with in Skeen's "Guide to Kandy" 
(which will show the visitor how to employ his 
probably very limited time to the most advant- 
age) and also in a Guide published by Mr. Bur- 
rows of the Civil Service. 

The Valley of Dumbara, celebrated now for 
its magnificent cacao estates, is reached bv cross- 
ing the Kundasale ferry, five miles out of Kandy 




KANDY, CEYLON 



possesses first-rate hotels. The principal attrac- 
tions are the Dalada Maligawa, or Temple of the 
Tooth (in which is enshrined the alleged relic of 
Buddha), a Buddhist Monastery, Hindu De- 
walas, the Tombs of the Kings, the King's Pavil- 
ion (the Governor's Kandy residence), all which 



on the Trincomalee road. Kundasale estate is one 
of the finest estates in the island. "Cocoa," the 
product of the cacao tree, must not be confounded 
with the cocoanut palm, as strangers too often 
do. A most singular phenomena may here be 
recorded : the honey in the district, always plenti- 



226 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



ful, has, owing, it is believed, to the cultivation 
of the Ceara rubber-tree, a decidedly bitter taste ! 

NuwARA Eliya. — The sanitarium of the 
island, situated on a plain 6,000 feet above sea- 
level — reached from Colombo by a railway jour- 
ney of 133 miles has now, not merely in regard 
to low-country residents, but for Anglo-Indians, 
who visit it in considerable numbers, acquired 
an importance which is likely to increase until it 
ranks second only to the capital. Starting from 
the Colombo terminus at 7.30 A. ^I., Nuwara 
Eliya is reached by 5 P. J\l. 

The visitor must indeed be hard to please who 
is not delighted with Nuwara Eliya at any time 
between the months of January and May, when, 
as a rule, fine weather can be depended upon. 
Surrounded, like Kandy, with an amphitheatre 



of hills — chief among which is Pidurutalagala, 
the loftiest summit in Ceylon, 8,295 ^^^t above 
sea-level, well-roaded, with a stream running 
through the centre of the plain into an artificial 
lake, dotted with pretty cottages — on a sunny 
day the station wears a most attractive appear- 
ance. With the temperature running down oc- 
casionally to below freezing point, but averaging 
57 degrees throughout the year, wood fires and 
blankets at night are necessary to ward off the 
cold. It possesses several good hotels — the 
"Grand," the Grand Central, St. Andrew's, 
Claremont, and several boarding houses. There 
is also a Hill Club, largely patronized by plant- 
ers and their friends. A United Club for ladies 
and gentlemen, a racecourse, golf links, cricket 
and croquet grounds, and lawn tennis courts are 
among its numerous social attractions. 



Ceylon 



THE word is significant of tea, and when 
heard we usually associate it with the cup 
that cheers, refreshes and solaces us 
through our daily toils. It was from this island 
the Dutch introduced this beverage into Europe 
during the seventeenth century, though tea was 
used for drinking purposes long before this in 
China. 

The name of Ceylon is derived from its shape, 
so resembling that of a copper leaf. It is an 
island in the Indian Ocean and a crown colony 
of Great Britain, situated southeast of the In- 
dian Peninsula, from which it is separated by 
Palk Strait and the Gulf of Manar. Its loca- 
tion is between latitudes 5° 55' and 9° 51' N.. 
and between longitudes 79° 41' and 81° 54' E. 
It is almost pear-shaped, has a length of about 
266 miles, and a width varying from 32 to 
140 miles with a total area of over 25,300 square 
miles. 

POPULATION. — According to the census 
of 1901, the total number of inhabitants in Cey- 
lon, including all races, was 3.576,990. 

PHYSICAL FEATURES.— In its northern 
part Ceylon is a level country, interspersed here 
and there with low hill chains. The southern 
part, on the contrary, is mountainous in its 
character. The mountain masses of the island 
cover an area of over 4,000 square miles and 
run in various directions with a gradual de- 
cline toward the north. The highest peaks are 
Pidurutalagala, 8,280 feet, and Adam's Peak, 
7,420 feet, a famous place of pilgrimage among 
Oriental nations and especially held in high es- 
teem by the Buddhists. In the mountains the 
temperature is pleasantly cool and not infre- 
quently cold in the night. In the valley of Nu- 
wara-Eliya, situated at an altitude of nearly 



6,000 feet and used for a sanatorium, the tem- 
perature seldom rises above 70° and has an an- 



nual average of about 62°. 



The flora of Ceylon is remarkable for its 
beauty as well as for its variety, and consti- 
tutes one of the principal attractions of the 
island. It is especially rich in palms, of which 




MOORMAN T.-VMBY 

the most prominent specimens are the cocoanut, 
areca, and feathery palms. The elevated por- 
tion of the island is fairly covered with thick 
forests of valuable trees, some of which can- 
not be found elsewhere in the world. Ceylon 
is especially rich in ferns and flowers, of which 
there are endless varieties. 



227 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



The animal kingdom of Ceylon is also re- 
markable for its variety. Chief among the 
quadrupeds is the elephant, which, though 
tuskless, is much valued as a beast of burden, 
and is largely exported from the island. The 
bear, leopard, buffalo, several species of mon- 
keys and the Indian humped ox are also abun- 
dant. The island contains over 3,000 species of 
birds and many varieties of reptiles, the most 
prominent being the crocodile. 

AGRICULTURE is the chief industry of 
Ceylon as well as the main source of its pros- 
perity. Of a total of over 16,000,000 acres, 
about 19 per cent, are under cultivation and 
pasture. Of these, about 750,000 acres are de- 
voted to rice and grain, 19,000 acres to coffee. 




CEYLON MERCH.-\NT 

over 400,000 acres to tea, about 860,000 acres 
to cocoanuts, and 33,000 acres to cocoa. 

The rapid development of the tea industry 
is best shown by the increase in exports of the 
commodity. In 1873 there were exported from 
the island 23 pounds which increased to 100,000 
pounds in 1879, and 2,392,975 pounds in 1884. 
In 1895 the export reached 98,581,060 pounds 
while in 1899 it amounted to nearly 130,000,000 
pounds. 

Under British occupation the commerce of 
Ceylon has made great progress. The value 
of the total commerce for 1899 was about 224,- 
000,000 rupees, divided equally between imports 
and exports, while in 1892 it amounted only to 
about 133,000,000 rupees. The trade is chiefly 
with Great Britain and India. The exports and 
imports of the former to and from Ceylon, for 
1899, amounted to 31,500,000 rupees and 61,- 



000,000, respective!}', while India cxpurted to 
Ceylon about 67,000,000 rupees worth, and 
imported only to the extent of 5,300,000 ru- 
pees. The chief exports are tea, cocoanut 
products, spices and graphite. The imports 
consist chiefly of cotton goods, rice and grains, 
coal and beverages. The tutal direct commerce 
of the United States with CcnIdu, for 1906. 
amounted to a little over $4.rKDo,ooo, of which 
over $4,500,000 represented imports into the 
United States. 

The railway lines of the island have a total 
length of 297 miles and are almost entirely 
owned and operated by the Covernment. 

ADMINISTRATION.— Ceylon has been ad- 
ministered since 1831 by a Governor, assisted 
by an executive council of five members, and a 
legislative council of seventeen members, inclu- 
ding the members of the executive council and 
four other Government officers, while the rest 
represent the native and foreign element of the 
island. For administrative purposes Ceylon is 
divided into nine provinces, each administered 
by a Government agent. The code of the colony 
is a modification of the Roman-Dutch law, while 
criminal law is based on the Indian penal code. 
Justice is administered by a supreme court, po- 
lice and district courts, and courts of request. 

ANTIQUITIES.— The buried cities and ru- 
ins of massive monuments in Ceylon make its 
antiquities a subject of importance to the stu- 
dent of art, archeology and history. These 
vestiges of early civilization are directl}' con- 
nected with Buddhism as the national faith of 
the island. Some of the ruined structures in 
the half-buried cities of the north of the island 
almost rival the pyramids of Egypt, or other 
monuments of antiquit\', in their desolate gran- 
deur. The architectural remains of 2,000 years 
ago, as seen at Anuradhapura, Pollonarua, Dam- 
bulla, Kalwawewa, ]\Iihintale and Sigiri are 
of the greatest interest alike to the traveler and 
the antiquarian. The rock-hewn temple of Gal- 
vihaira at Pollonarua, the capital of ancient Cey- 
lon, is much the same to-day as it was when 
described in the Mahavansa. The massive pile 
of the Rankot Dagoba and the Jetawanarama 
Temple, in the same region, with the colossal 
statues of Buddha here and elsewhere will repay 
a visit after Anuradhapura, with its famous 
"Bo" tree, planted 245 years B. C. 

Among the antiquities of Ceylon the ruined 
tanks must also be mentioned, as they are won- 
derful monuments ; 30 enormous reservoirs, and 
about 700 smaller tanks still exist, though for 
the most part in ruins. The temple of the Tooth, 
at Kandy, contains a tooth of Gautama Buddha 
brought from India to Ceylon about A. D. 300. 
The original relic was destroyed by the Portu- 
sruese manv vears ago. 



228 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



Aden 



AFTER a cruise of five days across the Ara- 
bian Sea, 3'ou will arrive at Aden, a. penin- 
sula and town near the southwestern end of 
Arabia, situated in latitude 12° N. and longitude 
45° 5' E., and connected with the mainland by 
a narrow sandy isthmus. In a broader sense 
the name of Aden is applied to the whole Brit- 
ish territory in that part of Arabia, which in- 
cludes, besides the peninsula and the isthmus, 
also a total area of about 75 square miles. The 
peninsula proper is of volcanic origin and 
reaches, in the peak of Jebel Shan-shan, an alti- 
tude of 1,775 feet above the sea. The climate 
of the region is healthful, but the scarcity of 
rain makes the cultivation of the soil impossible, 
so that all the necessaries of life have to be im- 
ported. Water is obtained partly from wells 
within the crater in which the town of Aden is 
situated, and partly from the hills, where it is 
collected during the rainfall and conducted into 
cisterns. The town of Aden is strongly forti- 
fied. The most populous settlements are 
Steamer Point and Shaikh Othman on the main- 
land. There are two harbors, but only one of 
them, Aden Back Bay, on the western side of 
the peninsula, is of aiiy commercial importance. 
Owing to its favorable location Aden was of 
considerable importance already in Roman times, 
when it was an entry port for the trade between 
the Roman Empire and the East. In the begin- 
ning of the sixteenth century it was taken by 
the Portuguese, who were succeeded by the 
Turks in 1535. From the seventeenth century 
until the British occupation Aden was under the 



rule of the Sultan of Sena and some native 
chiefs. In 1839 it was captured by the British 
as a punishment for the maltreatment to which 
the crew of a shipwrecked British vessel had 
been subjected by the natives in 1837. To- 
gether with the island of Perim, Aden consti- 
tutes a dependency of a Bombay presidency, and 
is now regarded as a very important coaling 
station. The population of Aden, which was 
at one time reduced by internal disorder to 
less than 1,000, is now over 41,000, and the 
import trade amounted to over $16,000,000 in 
1898-1899, while the value of the exports for 
the same year was about $13,000,000. The chief 
articles of export are coflfee, gum, hides, skins, 
horns, ostrich feathers, piece goods and tobacco. 
The administration of the territory is in the hands 
of a political Resident, who is also the military 
commander. An extensive territory in Arabia, 
officially reckoned a British protectorate, the 
Somali Coast, and the island of Sokotra are 
administered from Aden. 

There is nothing of interest to attract the 
traveler, and it is not worth the while to leave 
your steamer, unless it be to avoid the dirt 
of coaling ship, and to get on shore to stretch 
your legs. 

]\Iany native vendors of curios and ostrich 
feathers will surround your ship as soon as 
anchored, and the traveler who makes a purchase 
must bear in mind that any article can be bought 
for one-third the price asked, and in many 
cases for one-fourth. 



Red Sea 



IS an arm of the Indian Ocean separating the 
Arabian peninsula from Northeastern Africa, 
and lying between latitudes 12° 30' and 30° 
N. It extends in a northeast direction from 
the Strait of Bab-el-Mandeb, 20 miles wide, 
through which it communicates with the Gulf 
of Aden, to the Isthmus of Suez, and is 1,380 
miles long. It is narrowly elongated in shape, 
with a breadth between 100 and 200 miles main- 
tained for the greater part of its length. In 
the north the sea divides into two arms, cutting 
off the Sinai Peninsula ; these are the Gulf of 
Suez in the west, 170 miles long and 25 miles 
wide, and the Gulf of Akabali in the east, no 
miles long and 12 miles wide. The Gulf of 
Suez is connected by the Suez Canal, about 100 
miles long, with the Mediterranean. The basin 
of the Red Sea is formed by a line of fracture 
running through the great Archean mass capped 
by the limestone plateaus of Egypt and Arabia. 



The Archean rocks are exposed here and there 
along the coast. A branch fissure with steep 
rocky sides forms the Gulf of Akabah, and runs 
northward as the depression called El-Arabah, 
the deep sink of the Dead Sea, and the valley 
of the Jordan. The shores of the Red Sea are 
bordered on the Arabian side by sandy deserts 
which form a narrow strip back by the limestone 
range. On the Egyptian side are wide plains 
in the north, rising farther south into elevated 
tablelands, and finally into the mountains of 
Abyssinia. Each shore, particularly the eastern, 
is lined with immense coral reefs which in some 
places extend 25 miles or more from the land. 

Owing to the great deserts which border the 
Red Sea its temperature is intense and depress- 
ing. The prevailing winds are north and north- 
west, but in the southern section they change 
to the southeast during winter. From the earli- 
est times the Red Sea has been a great highway 



229 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



of commerce between India and the trading peo- 
ple of the Mediterranean lands, and was used 
successively by the Egyptians and the Phoenicians 
until the discovery of the route around the Cape 



of Good Hope. But since the opening of the 
Suez Canal it has regained its importance as the 
main routh of commerce between Europe and 
the East. 



Port Abrahim and Suez 



ARRIVING at Port Abrahim your ship will 
await its orders regarding the entrance 
of the canal, for ships must take their 
turns regardless of size or importance of cargo. 
Entering the canal two miles above is the town 
of Suez, which is built on a desert peninsula, 
with a few unpretentious-looking houses, and 
nothing to attract the traveler. The European 
quarter, however, is regularly laid out, and con- 
tains the large warehouses of several steamship 
companies. There are also two large hospitals, 
one English and one French. The town is sup- 
plied with water from a long distance through 
a fresh-water canal. To the south a large stone 
causeway, carrying a railway, runs back to 
where you just entered. Suez railroad connec- 
tions with Cairo and Ismailia, but its commerce 



is not very large, as only a small portion of the 
transit trade that passes through the canal ef- 
fects the town. Population in 1897 aggregated 

17457- 

Previous to the discovery of the sea route 
to India around the Cape of Good Hope, Suez 
was a flourishing emporium for the trade be- 
tween Europe and the East. It subsequently 
fell into decay, and before the opening of the 
canal it was a filthy village of only 1,000 in- 
habitants. 

Travelers wishing to reach Cairo, Egypt, will 
find it much more convenient to remain on the 
boat until Port Said is reached, from which 
point it takes only four hours by rail to Cairo, 
and from the latter port, means of transferring 
from steamer to train are much more handy. 



Suez Canal 



You now enter the canal which extends for 
a distance of about 100 miles across the 
Isthmus of Suez, connecting the Red Sea 
with the Mediterranean at Port Said. The 
canal is about 120 feet wide at the bottom, and 
twice that at the surface, and 28 feet deep. 
There are nine sidings, 49 feet wider than the 
average width of the canal, and 2,460 feet long, 
which afford ships an opportunity to pass in 
the canal. The average time occupied in pass- 
ing through the canal is about 17 hours. Ships 
travel by night just as well as during daytime, 
by carrying a powerful reflector on the bow. 



1903 the toll was reduced to 83/2 francs per net 
ton for loaded vessels, 7 francs for empty ships, 
and 10 francs per passenger. The accompany- 
ing table shows the traffic of the canal from 
1869 to 1900 inclusive. 

The history of the construction of the Suez 
Canal reads like a startling romance, in which 
war, ruin, oppression and imprisonment were 
the principals in the promotion, and the star 
actor's death and utter poverty ; besides Eng- 
land's serious opposition to its construction, the 
conservative nation who has been benefited by 
it beyond words to compute. 



Years 



Vessels 



Gross 
Tonnage 



Net 
Tonnage 



Transit 
Receipts 



1869 
1870 
187s 
1880 
18S5 
iSgo 
1895 
1900 



486 
1.494 
2,026 
3.620 
3.387 
3.434 
3.441 



10,558 

654,015 

2,940,708 

4.344.520 

8,985,412 

9.749.129 

11.833.637 

13.699.238 



6,576 
436,609 
2,009,984 
3,057.422 
6.335.753 
6,890,094 
8,448,383 
9,738,157 



Francs. 
54,460 

S. 159,327 
28,886.303 
39,840,484 
62,207.439 
66,984,000 
79.103,718 
90,623,608 



capable of spreading light 400 feet ahead of 
the vessel. 

TRAFFIC AND REVENUE.— The toll 
charged for the passage of the canal was 
10 francs per ton and 10 francs per passenger 
when the canal was first opened. Various 
charges were made in succeeding years, and in 



Greater by far than the leading actors of the 
world's dramas, was Ferdinand de Lesseps, the 
French diplomat and consular representative at 
Cairo, Egypt, who possessed the spirit of ad- 
venture, combined with great organizing pow- 
ers. Recognizing the opportunity of making 
himself prominent in the world's pages and in- 
cidentally to make himself fabulously wealthy. 



■i,?() 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



he resigned the French consul-generalship in 
Egfvpt to promote this glittering scheme. 

In 1854 Ferdinand de Lesseps obtained per- 
mission to construct a waterway from sea to 
sea without locks, and in 1855 an "International 
Consulatative Commission," selected from among 
the most celebrated civil engineers of Europe, 
was appointed to report upon the scheme. The 
final report of this commission was submitted 
to and accepted by the Viceroy in June, 1856. 

Previous to this period Egypt had no debt 
whatever. But when the work was completed 
in 1869, the government of this ancient land 



est owner, and, combined with the general finan- 
cial assistance rendered to Egypt, gave that 
power a direct interest in Egyptian affairs. 
Great Britain at once began to use her influence 
to crush De Lesseps, which resulted in the mon- 
arch of the Nile being deposed and sent into exile, 
and the national treasury at Cairo turned over 
to a commission of British and French adminis- 
trators, the latter resigning shortly from this 
responsibility, the former still retaining control. 
The miserable people of Egypt resented this 
new protector in the form of money lenders, 
and the Arabi rebellion followed, until British 




^^; 







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4- '.^«i^™-"J ,,_ H U N G A R Y_;' ^ / SX 

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^ ^^ ,S P A I N 

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MADEIRA ISLANDS 



ROUTE or THE CRUISE TO MADEIRA, SP.MN. THE MEDITERRANEAN AND THE ORIENT, BY THE S. S. MOLTKE 

Hamburg-American Line. 



was simply tottering under a load of obligations 
to European creditors, for the keen De Lesseps 
had beguiled the easily-influenced Said Pasha, 
and later the Ismail Pasha, who succeeded him 
in the khedivate, into borrowing immense sums 
of money from brokers in Europe at usurious 
rates, the greater portion of which stuck to the 
hands of the promoters. At last, the Egyptian 
Government, unable to raise sufiScient money 
to carry the construction through and to meet 
its subscriptions, consequently had to cash its 
warrants in London to the amount of 176,602 
shares for £4,000,000. This made England, who 
had so persistently opposed the canal, the heavi- 



soldiers and warships took command and re- 
stored order. This has been almost a quarter 
of a century ago; yet British soldiers have re- 
mained, and to all purpose the country had be- 
come a colony of England as payment for mon- 
eys to build this canal. 

The traveler entering Port Said will note a 
bronze statue of Ferdinand de Lesseps at the 
entrance of the jetty, his left hand holding a 
map of the canal, while the right is raised in 
graceful invitation to the maritime world to 
enter. This piece of sculpture is the only ma- 
terial evidence that such a person as Ferdinand 
de Lesseps ever lived. 



?.•?! 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



Port Said 



Is now reached, and there is absohitely nothing 
of particular note unless it be the statue of 
De Lesseps, the promoter of the canal that 
was destinecl to be of such commercial impor- 
tance to the maritime world. There are very 
few buildings of any importance, it being prin- 
cipally a coaling station and tremendous piles 
of coal may be seen decorating the horizon on 
all sides. 

NOTICE.— Those who wish to visit the 
points of historical interest bordering on the 
Mediterranean should leave their steamer here, 



proceeding by rail to Cairo, visiting the Pyra- 
mids, thence to the port of Alexandria from 
which place regular steamboat service is main- 
tained by the Hamburg-American Line to Jaffa. 
Jerusalem, Beyrout, Smyrna, Constantinople on 
the Black Sea : then returning via Athens, Greece ; 
Syracuse, Sicily; Naples and Genoa, Italy; Ville- 
france ; Gibraltar ; Lisbon ; and Dover, England. 
The steamers maintained on this service are 
of the latest construction and afford perfect com- 
fort, at the same time making it possible for you 
to visit the principal historical points in the old 
world. 



Cairo, Egypt 



CAIRO is the capital of Egypt and the 
largest city of Africa. It is situated near 
the right bank of the Nile, about nine 
miles above its bifurcation into the Rosetta and 
Damietta arms, 150 miles southwest of Alexan- 
dria and 80 miles west of Suez. It covers an 




CITADEL AT CAIRO 



area of 11 square miles, divided into separate 
quarters named after the nationality of the in- 
habitants, and is surrounded by low walls. Not- 
withstanding modern improvements, the Arabian 
quarters retain their Oriental character, the 
streets in that part of Cairo being narrow, 



crooked, and but few of them paved. The 
houses are mostly of stone, several stories high, 
and with window lattices of wrought iron. The 
modern portion of Cairo, called Ismailia, ex- 
tending westward, is well laid out with broad 
avenues, fine squares, and a beautiful park on 

the Palace Ezbe- 
k i e h . occupying 
an area of over 
twenty acres and 
containing a num- 
ber of gardens and 
amusement places. 
The PalaceEz- 
bekieh is the center 
of modern Cairo, 
and around it are 
situated the prin- 
cipal theaters, ho- 
tels and c o n s u - 
lates. 

The chief beau- 
ty and interest of 
Cairo lie in its 
numerous mosques, 
(if which some are 
regarded as the 
best specimens of 
Arabic architec- 
ture. The Gami- 
ibu-Tulun. erected 
alDout 879, is the 
finest. It is square 
and surmounted by 
four minarets and 
a dome, having a court with a fountain in the cen- 
ter. The Garni Amra is the oldest in Egypt, but 
only a small portion of it is left. The Gami Sul- 
tan Hassan was begun in 1356, and. in point of 
splendor, stands foremost among the mosques of 
Cairo. It is cruciform in the interior, and con- 



232 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



tains a large number of pillars and beautiful 
hanging lamps. Its inner court has two foun- 
tains of singular beauty, and its dome is flanked 
by two minarets, the southern of which is said 
to be the highest in Egypt. Among other 
mosques may be mentioned that of Mehemet AH, 
a structure of considerable architectviral merit, 
recently built after Turkish models, with high 
minarets of alabaster. The mosque of Kait Bey 
dates from the fifteenth century. Cairo has a 
number of tombs of califs and mamelukes, some 
of which are of great size and finely built. 

The obelisks, once so numerous, have disap- 
peared, and now adorn various European and 
American cities. Among the palaces of Cairo 
is the vice-regal residence situated within the 
citadel ; the beautiful palace of Gesireh in the 
northwestern part of the city, now converted 
into a hotel ; and the palace of Addin in the 
center of the city, frequently occupied by the 
Khedive. The bazaars of Cairo are extensive 
and well stocked, although inferior to those of 
Constantinople or Smyrna. The chief business 
street, jNIuski, has greatly decreased the impor- 
tance. The citadel of Cairo is situated southeast 
of the city, and aft"ords a fine view ; its strategi- 
cal importance is greatly detracted from by 
the fact that it is dominated by the Jebel Mokat- 
tam. 

Cairo is the residence of the Khedive and 
is the seat of administration of Egypt. It has 
also an international court and consular repre- 
sentatives from all important countries. The 
manufactures of Cairo include metal articles. 



textiles, essence of flowers, etc. There is rail- 
way communication with Alexandria, Damietta, 
Suez, El-Merg, Heluan and Upper Egj'pt, which 
will soon be connected throughout, crossing the 
entire continent of Africa. 




THE SPHIN'.X 



Cairo has many excellent hotels, and from No- 
vember to March it is thronged with visitors 
from ever}- part of the world. 



Alexandria 



A CITY founded by Alexander the Great, 
in the winter of 332 B. C. on the site of 
an Egyptian town, Rhacotis. It was situ- 
ated at the mouth of the Xile, on the low ridge 
separating Lake JMareotis from the Mediterra- 
nean, and was laid out by the architect Dinocra- 
tes of Rhodes in the form of a parallelogram, 
with two main streets crossing at right angles. 
Part of the city was filled with magnificent 
buildings, including the museum and the famous 
library that was burned by Amur who believed 
books to oppose the doctrine of the Koran. 
Here also were erected a monument of Alexan- 
der, the graves of the Ptolemis, the temple of 
Poseidon and the Cassareum — afterward a 
church, and once marked by the two obelisks 
known as Cleopatra's Needles, of which one was 



transported to the Thames Embankment in Lon- 
don in 1878, and the other to Central Park, New 
York, in 1881. 

There are also newly discovered catacombs to 
be seen. Lighted by electricity they combine the 
ancient and the modern in a striking manner. 
Modern Alexandria is divided into two parts. 
The peninsula between the eastern and western 
harbors is inhabited chiefly by Mohammedans. 
It has crooked and narrow streets, a large num- 
ber of 'mosques and, with the exception of the 
palaces of the wealthy Turks, few buildings 
worthy of notice. The European quarter is 
situated on the mainland south of the eastern 
harbor. It is well built, and has many of the 
improvements essential to modern cities. 



233 



Prom Occident to Orient and Around the IVorld 



The Pyramids 



WITHIN a few minutes' ride of Cairo are 
the famous Pyramids which were built, 
some venture to say, 6,000 years ago. 
and a day spent among them will be a great 
source of gratification, if nothing more than to 
satisfy your own mind as to their position and 




THE PYRAMIDS 



ascending the throne, began to build a pyramid 
as a tomb and monument for himself. This was 
usually laid out upon a comparatively small 
scale, so that if the builder had but a short 
reign his tomb might be complete. As time 
passed, successive layers were added, and the 

size of the monu- 
ment was thus pro- 
portioned to the 
length of the build- 
e r ' s reign. This 
theory is combated 
by Petri, who be- 
lieves that each 
pyramid was begun 
and carried out up- 
on a definite design 
ofsizeandar- 
rangement. 

The largest of 
the three pyramids 
near Cairo, known 
as the "Great Pyra- 
mid," presents a 
p e r p e n d i c u lar 
height of 451 feet, 
but originally in- 
cluded the nucleus 
of rock at the bot- 
tom and the apex 
which have disap- 
peared, when it 
measured 482 feet, 
or more than 50 
feet higher than 
the Saint Peter's 
a t R o m e . The 
sloping sides, 
which rise at an 
angle of 51.50°, are 
now 568 feet in 
slant height and 
have a length of 
750 at the base. 
The cube contents 
amount to about 
3,057,000 cubic 
yards, representing 
a weight of no 
less than 6,848,000 
tons. According 
to Petri's estimate 
the Pyramids contain about 2,300,000 blocks of 
stone, averaging some 40 cubic feet in size. In 



actual appearance, compared with the version 
you may have pictured of them during your 

school days. its present condition this immense edifice covers 

With regard to the mode of construction of a space of nearly thirteen acres. The material 

the Pyramids of Egypt, there have been two of which it is constructed consists of stone from 

theories advanced, one being that each king, on the Mokattam and Tura hills on the opposite 

234 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



side of the Nile. Traces of the road by which 
the stone was conveyed are still visible. The 
outer casing of this pyramid has long since dis- 
appeared, and the underlying courses of rough- 
hewn stone now form a series of steps. 

Near the second pyramid may be seen the most 
remarkable of all Egyptian sphinxes. It is sculp- 
tured out of native rock, to which masonry has 
been added in certain places to complete the 
form. The body is roughly hewn out, but the 
head was originally executed with great care. 
The entire height of the monument, from the 
crown of the head to the pavement on which the 
forelegs rest, is about 66 feet. In length the 
figure measures 172.5 feet ; the forelegs are 50 



feet long ; and the head is 30 feet long by nearly 
14 feet in breadth. The face was originally 
red, but the coloring has almost entirely disap- 
peared. 

In 1816 the front of the Sphinx was cleared 
of sand by Caviglia, who found close to the 
breast a shrine, or small temple, containing an 
inscription of Thothmes IV. and one of Rameses 
II. Both monarchs had cleared away the sand 
that had accumulated about the monuments. 
From the inscription of Thothmes IV. it is clear 
that the Sphinx was considered to represent 
Harmachis, a special form of the sun-god, and 
its office was to serve as a guardian of the 
necropolis near the Pyramids. 



J 



erusalem 



THE name is of great antiquity, being found 
on several of the Tell-el-Amarans letters 
written by Abdi-hiha, ruler of the city, to 
his master, Amenophis IV. of Egypt, 1400 B. C. 
The modern city is located in latitude 31° 46' 
45" N., longitude 35° 13' 25" E. The city is 
distant thirty-three miles from the ^lediterran- 
e a n and fifteen 
miles from the 
northern end of 
the Dead Sea. The 
city proper is sur- 
rounded by a long 
and tortuous wall, 
built by Solomon 
the ^lagnificent, in 
the first half of the 
sixteenth century, 
and practically co- 
inciding with the 
fortifications of the 
city at the time of 
the Crusades. The 
wall is surmounted 
b y thirty - eight 
towers, and is 
pierced by eight 
gates, of which the 
most important are 
the Jafifa Gate in 
the west, the 
Damascus Gate in 
the northwest, and 
the newly opened 
Gate of Abdul- 
H a m i d , a short 

distance north of the Jaflfa Gate. The inner 
city is divided into four parts. The Moham- 
medans occupy the northeastern and larger por- 
tion adjoining the Haram esh-Sherif ; the Ar- 
menians live in the southwest : the Jews in the 
southeast, and the Christians in the northwest 
adjoining the outer city. 



Jerusalem of the present, with its mercantile 
houses, hotels, stores, various educational and 
philanthropical institutions, has very little sug- 
gesting the city of the past. The historical in- 
terest of the city centres around the Haram esh- 
Sherif. The city is connected by a carriage road 
with Jaffa, Bethlehem, Hebron and Jericho, and 




SOLOMON S TEMPLE. JERUSALEM 

by a narrow-gauge railway line of fifty-four 
miles to Jaffa. 

The chief industry of Jerusalem is the manu- 
facture of articles from olive-wood and mother- 
of-pearl. The trade is chiefly in the hands of the 
Jews. Administratively the city is the capital of 
a sanjak, and has two councils, in which the rec- 

235 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



ognized religious communities are represented. 
A colony of over one hundred Americans has 
been established here engaged in religious work 
for over twenty years. If you are interested in 



religious work, you may be able to find excel- 
lent accommodations in this colony. The perma- 
nent population of Jerusalem is estimated at 
50,000. 



Ath 



ens 



THE capital of the Kingdom of Greece and of 
the home of Attica ; situated in latitude 37° 
59' N., and longitude 23° 41' E., on the 
southwest coast of Attica, less than three miles 
from the Saronac Gulf at the nearest point, and 



Gr 



eece 



on the site of ancient Athens forms the inner 
city, with narrow, crooked streets ; and outside of 
this the Neapolis, or new city, extends in a semi- 
circular arc, which is regularly laid out and 
divided into six districts. It is connected with 




about four and one-half miles from the Harbor of 
Pirffius. 

Athens is principally noted for its ancient 
ruins, and schools and colleges for learning. 
The cluster of houses at the foot of the Acropolis 



the older portion by Hermes and ^olus streets, 
the main business thoroughfares, which intersect 
at Constitution Square, the site of the royal 
palace and gardens. 



Constantinople 



THE capital and largest city of the Ottoman 
Empire, situated in the extreme south- 
eastern part of European Turkey, on the 
shore of the Sea of Marmora, the Bosporus, 
and the Golden Horn, a long narrow inlet, ex- 
tending in a northwestern direction from the 
Bosporus; latitude 41° N., longitude 25° 59' E. 
With its many mosques, kiosks and extensive 
gardens, it presents from the sea a magnificent 
appearance, which is greatly enhanced by the 
imposing picturesqueness of the situation. The 



236 



fortifications surrounding the city have strong 
towers, and are pierced by numerous historic 
gates. The streets are narrow, crooked and 
without sidewalks. There are countless house- 
gardens and many beautiful cemeteries. The 
houses, usually of one story, are mostly built of 
wood, though some portions of the city, since the 
great fires of 1865, 1866 and 1870, have been 
reconstructed in a modern, fireproof style. 

The architectural beauty of Constantinople 
itself lies conspicuously in its mosques, there be- 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



ing in all 379, among which the most magnificent 
is that of Agia Sofia, and should not be missed 
by the traveler. The present edifice, 250 by 235 
feet in size, was begun in 532 by Justinian, and 
was completed in five years. While its outward 
appearance is not in keeping with the grandeur 
and charm of its interior, it is regarded as one 
of the most magnificent of ecclesiastical edifices. 
The dome in the centre rises 180 feet high and 



is 108 feet in diameter. It is supported by four 
arches. Within the mosque are 107 pillars of 
gigantic proportions — forty on the ground floor 
and sixty-seven above. 

Pera, the foreign quarter and the most modern 
part of Constantinople, lies beyond Galata. Here 
are the foreign embassies and the residences of 
the Europeans. Here also is the Grand Rue, 
lined with fashionable shops and hotels. 



The Far East 



THERE is much remaining to be said of the 
Far East which it is impossible to cover in 
this small scope, but it is hoped that the 
perusal hereof may be an incentive to the study 
of its wonderful countries. Whatever the trav- 
eler may have seen of the Orient, it is certain 
that he will wish to learn more by study and re- 
search, of its history, past and present, of its 
opportunities and advantages from a residential 
and business standpoint, for it is surely the com- 
ing trade mart of the world. There is one 
peculiar feature of life in the East. Give a man 
all the home ties in his native land. He will leave 
the Orient, vowing never to return, but there is 
that peculiar fascination which nine times out 
of ten draws you back, you "Hear the East a- 
Calling." 

As Kipling says, "Place me somewhere east 
of Suez where the best is like the xvorst, and 
there are no ten commandments, and a man can 
create a thirst." 

The struggle for existence, the competition in 
business, the anxieties and cares attendant upon 
a multiplicity of business affairs are not nearly 
so pressing or important in any way in the Orient 



as they are in the mother country. The wife is 
relieved of a large part of her household duties 
by servants whose monthly wages would cause 
"Biddy" at home to break into derisive laughter. 
The business man seldom appears at the office 
before 10 A. M., and leaves at 4 P. M., with 
about two hours rest at noon. His work is inter- 
spersed with numerous Bank Holidays, especially 
in the English Colonies. On Saturday afternoon 
no one is to be found in his place of business. 
Life is taken in real earnest, and is comparably 
sweeter and more enjoyable in the East than to 
the toiler in any business or profession in Europe 
or America. 

Add to the above advantage the undisputed 
fact that all of the Orient is still virgin territory 
to the Occidental ; that the general territory com- 
prised in the Chinese Empire, for instance, has 
scarcely been scratched by foreign hands ; that 
the mineral wealth of gold, silver, copper, iron, 
coal and petroleum has never been developed, 
and it will be evident to even the most super- 
ficial observer that the East is a place of wonder- 
ful possibilities, awaiting strong, energetic men 
to develop it. 



Napl 



THE far-famed sitviation of the city on the 
sea, amid its amphitheatre of hills, can be 
compared perhaps only with that of Con- 
stantinople. Across the bay to the south is vis- 
ible the historic island of Capri ; on the eastern 
shore are villas, vineyards and orange groves 
grouped around tiny cities, while over all towers 
Vesuvius with ominous grandeur. The environs 
in general are unsurpassed for loveliness and the 
great variety of interest they present. Sorrento, 
Capri, Ischia and the Phlegrasan district are lo- 
calities that delight the sightseer. Other strik- 
ing attractions are the former monastery of the 
Camaldolites, and the hill of Posilipo with its 
multitudinous associations and its fine streets of- 
fering magnificent views. 

The modern portion of the city, where nearly 
all the hotels are situated, is bordered along the 
bay in a curved course of three miles. Here the 
Villa Nazionale stretches away — a splendid park 



apies 

dating from 1780. It is embellished with lordly 
allees, statues, and miniature temples. It con- 
tains the well-known aquarium of Naples, which 
is filled with a great variety of extraordinary 
fish — frutti di mare. It is, in fact, a school 
established for the scientific investigation of the 
aquatic fauna and flora of the Mediterranean. 
The public squares, or larghi, of Naples are 
adorned with fountains and obelisks ; and within 
the precincts of the city are several highly-prized 
springs of fresh mineral water. 

The handsome Renaissance Porta Capuana is 
justly celebrated. The castles are numerous. 
Among the principal ones are the Castle Nuovo, 
called the Bastile of Naples, somewhat similar 
to the Tower of London, and adorned with a fine 
triumphal arch erected in honor of Alfonso of 
Aragon ; the Castello Sant Elmo, commanding a 
magnificent view from the ramparts ; and the 
historic egg-shaped Castello dell' Ovo. The last 



237 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



was begun in 1154. It is situated on an islet 
connecting with the mainland, and is one of the 
conspicuous features of Naples. Near it is the 
street Santa Lucia — the centre of the noisy Nea- 
politan life, particularly of the lower classes. 
Women engag'ed in domestic duties, naked chil- 
dren, and pedlers of all kinds present a unique 
spectacle, here in a city characterized by festivals 
and processions and bustling traffic. The neigh- 
boring royal palace is of modern construction. 
It has an irrtposing fagade decorated with rich 
statues. The interior is uninteresting. 

Of nearly four hundred churches none is very 
striking. The cathedral, dedicated to Saint Jan- 
uarius, contains the celebrated vials in which the 
liquefaction of the saint's blood is alleged to take 
place on the three annual festivals. The church 
also contains the tombs of Charles of Anjou and 



cules, the mosaic of the Battle of Alexander, the 
Pompeiian frescoes, and a valuable collection of 
bronzes and vases. The traveler should by no 
means leave Naples until he has visited this 
museum. 

Naples is especially renowned for its magnifi- 
cent opera houses, San Carlos, adjoining the 
Royal Palace, being the largest and most famous 
in Europe, aside from the Scala of Alilan and 
the new opera house at Paris. 

Directly opposite San Carlos is the Galleria 
Umberto I., a very handsome arcade which was 
erected in 1890 and intended to surpass any- 
thing of its kind in Italy. The ground floor is 
occupied by the leading stores of Naples, while 
in the basement is a small theatre used as a cafe. 
The show given nightly is of the variety type, 
and it is here you will be afforded an oppor- 











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NAPLES AND VESUVIUS 



Pope Innocent IV., besides numerous fine paint- 
ings and statues. San Martin is an interesting 
religious precinct, with its belvedere, cloisters 
and museum. In the monastery attached to the 
Church of Santi Severino e Sosio are deposited 
the valuable archives of the former Neapolitan 
Kingdom, consisting of some 40,000 manu- 
scripts, the earliest dating from 703. 

Naples is far richer in archaeological than in 
architectural features of interest. The National 
Museum contains an immense and unsurpassed 
collection of frescoes, paintings, mosaics, sculp- 
tures, antiquities, coins, medals and inscriptions, 
including objects excavated at Herculaneum and 
Pompeii. Among its rarest, most celebrated pos- 
sessions are the Farnese Bull, the Farnese Her- 



tunity to study the light-hearted and cheerful 
people in their modes of amusement. 

At the head of the educational system is the 
university. There are also an engineering school, 
an Oriental institute, an astronomical observa- 
tory, a botanical garden, several unions for the 
study and diffusion of many leading branches of 
knowledge, a marine school, and a royal con- 
servatory of music. The charitable institutions 
are numerous, on an extensive scale, and richly 
endowed. Besides that of the university there is 
the National Librar}', with over 350,000 volumes, 
200,000 pamphlets and about 8,000 manuscripts. 
Naples is one of the most important manufac- 
turing centres in Italy. Ships, locomotives and 
cars, and stationary engines are built ; and glass, 



238 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



cotton, wood, gloves, perfumery, linen and silk 
products are manufactured. Copies of ancient 
vases and bronzes, lava articles and coral and tor- 
toise-shell goods are also largely dealt in. The 
tourist or traveler should not buy these articles 




FABER LINE 
Xew York — .Naples — Marseilles 

from the many street pedlers, but make your 
purchases from reliable firms. 

Half of the population of Naples, including 
the countless lazzaroni and trovatori, were hud- 
dled together in the slums in ancient, unsanitary 
buildings that crowded narrow, crooked streets, 
until the cholera epidemic of 1884 aroused the 
whole country. In 1885 the Italian Parliament 
voted $20,000,000 toward a systematic renova- 
tion which, when entirely complete, will cost the 
city and nation not less than $100,000,000. A 
new water-supply was at once introduced from 
the mountains near Avellino, fifty miles away, 
and plans were elaborated for a new sewer 
system, for new streets, new squares, and new 
buildings. Of 271 old streets 144 were to be 
abolished and 127 widened ; the habitations of 
90,000 persons were to be destroyed, and the 
density of the population reduced from 645 to 
280 per acre. The work so far has been done on 
contract by private companies, and the resale of 
street frontage on the new business streets has 
to some extent reimbursed the Government. 

OBJECTS OF INTEREST NEAR 
NAPLES. — Within easy reach of Naples are 
many points of unusual interest, and to best see 
them one should apply to Cook's, Galleria Vic- 
toria, or to "Naples Tours," at 37 Santa Lucia 
II. These tourist agencies will supply you with 
a competent guide, and can arrange the trips at 
much less expense than if you attempted to do it 
yourself. 

Objects of interest are, Pompeii, Herculaneum, 
Vesuvius (the world's greatest volcano), Capri, 
near which is the famous Blue Grotto, Sorrento, 
Cave and Postano. 

Pompeii was founded as early as the sixth 
century, B. C, by Oscans, who were later con- 
quered b}' Samnites. The city fell under the 
power of Rome during the Samnite wars B. C. 
342-290, but retained autonomy in a measure. 
Under Sulla B. C. 80, it became a Roman colony, 
and later a favorite resort for wealthy Romans, 



many of whom, including Cicero and the Em- 
peror Claudius, had villas in the suburbs. Its 
population must have been about 20,000. The 
city was much damaged by an earthquake which 
recurred on February 5, A. D. 63. In 79 oc- 
curred that terrific eruption of Vesuvius which, 
in one day, overwhelmed in irremediable ruin 
the towns of Pompeii, Herculaneum and Stabise. 
Vesuvius was seen to send up a column of 
black smoke, spreading itself out over the entire 
city, and with terrific roars the crater emitted 
streams of ashes, pumice and red-hot stones ; 
rain fell in torrents from time to time, and the 
whole cit)' was convulsed by successive, violent 
earthquakes. The dense' clouds of ashes fell 
thick and fast, completely covering the city. The 
catastrophe must have been sudden and unex- 
pected, for during excavations there have been 
found bread in the ovens, meat upon the fire, a 
sucking pig in a pan ready for the day's dinner, 
and every sign of active life in the houses of a 
resident population. The skeletons of soldiers 
in the stocks of the guard room, the dog tied to 
the kennel, the lady flying with her jewels in 
her hand, the household gods standing in the 
buildings, all fKsint in the same direction, and 
justify the assumption that the busy life of that 
fashionable city was suddenly brought to a close. 
Over six hundred skeletoris and fragments of 
human bodies have been discovered in the exca- 
vations, the remains, no doubt, of the sick and 
aged who could not escape, some of them, per- 
haps, of obstinate citizens who believed the 
calamity to be transitory and expected to find 
safety beneath the vaulted roofs of the stronger 
dwellings. The traveler will be able to see many 




bodies in these ruins, lying just as they were dis- 
covered in the buried city. 

The steamers of the German-Mediterranean- 
Levant-Line sail weekly, departing alternately 
from Marseilles and from Genoa, calling at 



239 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



Naples, Piraeus (Athens), Smyrna and Constan- 
tinople, and proceeding alternately to Odessa and 
Nicolajeff or Batoum on the Black Sea. The re- 
turning steamers sail from Constantinople week- 



ly, calling at Smyrna, Piraeus (Athens) and 
Naples and proceeding alternately to Genoa or 
Marseilles. These steamers are luxuriant in 
appointments and the service is perfect. 



THERE is no other city in the world that has 
the irresistible charm which distinguishes 
Paris, the true Capital of the World — and 
none other with a like fascination to draw people 
from the four corners of the earth. Even the 
squalid, poverty-stricken quarter, with its sordid 
features of life, inseparable from every great 
city notwithstanding, possesses a characteristic 
air of Parisian life that appeals to the new and 
the old-comer. 

Paris is so rich in historical remembrances and 
associations of its brilliant past, its picturesque 
life of gaiety, art, learning and high advance- 
ment, as to make it everlastingly interesting to 
young and old alike. 

The many boulevards, extending in an irreg- 
ular, circular line on both sides of the Seine, gen- 
•erally on the sight of the ancient ramparts, be- 
tween the nucleus of the city and its surrounding 
quarters, present the most striking feature of 
Parisian life. In the better parts of the city they 
are lined with trees, benches and little towers 
called Vespasiennes, covered with advertise- 
ments ; and restaurants, cafes, shops and various 
places of amusement succeed one another for 
miles, varying in character from the height of 
luxury and elegance in the Boulevard des Italiens 
and the Boulevard Haussmann, to the domestic 
simplicity of the Boulevards Bon Marche and 
Saint-Denis. 

Among the public squares, of which there are 
over 130, mostly owned by the municipality, the 
most noteworthy is the Place de la Concorde, 
which connects the gardens of the Tuileries with 
the Champs Elysees, and embraces a magnificent 
view of some of the finest buildings and gardens 
of Paris. In the centre is the famous obelisk of 
Luxor, brought from Eg'ypt to France in 1836, 
and covered over its entire height of seventy-six 
feet with hieroglyphics. On the site of this 
obelisk stood the Revolutionary guillotine, at 
which perished Louis XVI., Marie Antoinette, 



aris 

Philippe Egalite, Danton, Robespierre, and a 
host of other victims. 

Of other squares the following are some of the 
handsomest : the Place du Carrousel, west of the 
Louvre, with the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel, 
erected by Napoleon I., in commemoration of his 
victories in the campaigns of 1805-06; the Place 
de la Republique, with a fine bronze statue of the 
Republic; the Place de I'Opera; the Place Ven- 
dome, with Napoleon's column of victory ; the 
Place de la Bastile, where once stood that famous 
prison and fortress ; the Place de la Nation, for- 
merly Place du Throne, with its fine fountain and 
monumental group typifying the Triumph of the 
Republic ; the Place de THotel de Ville, formerly 
Place de la Greve, for many ages the scene of 
public execution, and the spot where some of the 
bloodiest deeds of the Revolution were perpe- 
trated. 

Paris has many theatres and places of amuse- 
ment, suited to the tastes and means of every 
class. The leading houses, as the Opera, Theatre 
Francais — chiefly devoted to classical French 
drama, Odeon, Theatre Italien, etc., receive a 
subvention from the Government, and all are 
under strict police supervision. The new opera 
house, completed in 1875, is a magnificent build- 
ing, costing, exclusive of the site, $5,600,000. 
It is at present the largest theatre in the world, 
occupying an area of nearly three acres ; its most 
striking features are the magnificent Grand 
Staircase and the admirably decorated foyer. 
Cheap concerts, equestrian performances and 
public balls, held in the open air in summer, sup- 
ply a constant round of gaiety to the burgher 
and working classes at a moderate cost, and form 
a characteristic feature of Parisian life. 

Travelers visiting Paris are advised to 
purchase "Baedeker's Paris," a small hand 
guide, furnishing all the information desired 
regarding hotels, means of transportation, 
places of amusement, etc. 



Information Concerning London 

ALBERT'S MEMORIAL, standing on the south side of Kensington Gardens, was erected 
as a joint memorial between her late Majesty and the nation, of the late Prince Consort, 
of whom a gilt statue occupies the center. The base is surrounded by four marble 
groups, representing Europe, Asia, Africa and America, and will be recognized at once by 
those who visited the American Centennial Exhibition of 1876. 

BANK of ENGLAND on Threadneedle Street. — Its wonderful vaults, bank-note machin- 
ery, and bullion can be seen only on the order of the governor of the bank. 

240 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 

BATTERSEA PARK, across the Thames and offering a fine promenade almost upon its 
banks, has a fine semi-tropical garden and is preeminently the " happy hunting ground " of 
the London cyclists of both sexes. 

BRITISH MUSEUM, Great Russel Street, W. C— Open lo A. M. till 4 P. M. Sundays 
during summer, 2 to 6 P. M. Admission free. 

CHELSEA. — A historic spot. The home of the world-wide-known Thomas Carlyle, " the 
Chelsea philosopher." Here is the Chelsea Hospital, an asylum for old soldiers, and the Duke 
of York School for soldiers' children. 

CRYSTAL PALACE, Sydenham.— By rail from Victoria Station, or London Bridge Sta- 
tion, of the London and Brighton Railway, 35 minutes. 

EARLE'S COURT EXHIBITION is another permanent affair, though changing its lead- 
ing features each year. The Great Wheel, 300 feet high, is one of the standing — or, rather, 
whirling — attractions of Earle's Court. 

GEOLOGICAL MUSEUM, Jermyn Street.— Daily except Friday, free, 10 to 4. Mondays 
and Saturdays, 10 to 10. On Sundays during summer, 2 to 6 P. M. 

GREEN PARK, past York House, the town residence of H. R. H. the Duke of York. The 
Green Park, with Buckingham Palace and its gardens on the left, and the fine range of an- 
cestral houses of England's nobility, imposing club facades, and private residences, leads you 
to Hyde Park Corner. 

GUILDHALL, Cheapside, contains a library, museum and a fine collection of pictures. 
Open daily, free, on application to the hallkeeper. 

HORSE GUARDS, Whitehall, Military Offices and Headquarters of the Commander-in- 
Chief. The guard mounts every morning at 11 and presents an interesting sight. 

HOUSE OF PARLIAMENT, Westminster.— The largest Gothic edifice in the world, con- 
taining 1,000 rooms. The Lords and Commons usually sit in session from Februsiry to August. 
To hear the debates, tickets for the Strangers' Gallery may be obtained from a member of 
Parliament, or through the American Embassy. 

HYDE PARK, the finest park in London, measuring about 800 acres. The carriage- 
drive and promenade of the fashionable world. Rotten Row, is here. Bands play several eve- 
nings weekly in the summer. , 

IMPERIAL INSTITUTE, South Kensington.— Exhibits of produce, etc., from the British 
colonies. Open daily, free. 

THE WALLACE COLLECTION, at Hertford House, Manchester Square, is one of the 
finest collections in Europe of paintings, ancient and modern, sculptures, objects de vertu, 
china, arms and armor, and valuable curiosities. A considerable portion of these exhibits were 
collected by the fourth Marquis of Hertford, who bequeathed it to his son. Sir Richard Wal- 
lace, who greatly added to it. In 1897 Sir Richard's widow left it to the nation. It is estimated 
to be worth at least six million pounds $30,000,000. 

TOWER BRIDGE. — A wonderful piece of engineering skill, to the eye a fairy fabric, but 
colossal in all its detail. The two bascules which form the main roadway, on a level with the 
street, can be lifted in one and a half minutes by hydraulic power, to allow large vessels to 
pass through. The genius of the engineer of this great work is markedly shown by the suc- 
cessful manner in which he has preserved the uniformity in appearance of this — the latest of 
London's triumphs — with the old fortress already referred to of the early eleventh century. 

TOWER OF LONDON. — Fortress, Palace, and Prison, one of the oldest landmarks of 
London. Here the crown jewels are kept, and a fine collection of small arms may be seen in 
the armory. The attendants in and around the precincts still wear the quaint uniform of the 
time of Henry VIII. Open from 10 till 4 on Mondays and Saturdays, free; other days, 6d. 
to the Jewel House, and 6d. to the Armory. Same route as the Monument. 

UNITED SERVICE INSTITUTION, Whitehall (The banqueting-hall of the old White- 
hall Palace). — From one of the windows here Charles I. stepped out to his execution. Many 
naval and military relics. Open daily, 6d. 

241 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 

WINDSOR CASTLE. — Tickets for admission to be had free at the entrance to the castle 
only. By rail from Paddington, or Waterloo, one hour and fifteen minutes. 

ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS, Regent's Park. — These gardens, commonly known as Ihe 
" Zoo," contain one of the most extensive collections of animals to be found anywhere. 

LONDON BRIDGE. — Adjacent to the monument. The traffic across this bridge is sim- 
ply stupendous, and must be seen to be realized. 

MONUMENT. — Near London Biidge, raised to commemorate the Great Fire of London 
in 1666. The view of London from the gallery at the top is excellent, and visitors are ad- 
mitted at a price of 3d. each. 

NATIONAL GALLERY, Trafalgar Square. — Free Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday and 
Saturday, 10 till 4. Open on Sundays during summer, free, from 2 to 6 P. M. 

OLD CURIOSITY SHOP. — Immortalized by Charles Dickens, 13 and 14 Portsmouth 
Street, Lincoln's Inn Fields. Curiosities, Dickens' pictures, souvenirs, etc., for sale. 

ROYAL ACADEMY, Piccadilly. — The Annual Exhibition of Pictures is held here from 
the beginning of May to the beginning of August. A private view can only be obtained 
by invitation. Admission from 2s. 6d. to is. 

ST. JAMES'S PALACE. — The oldest royal residence, but only used for functions of an 
official character. Here the Household Troops "mount guard" every morning at 11 o'clock. 

ROUTES FROM LONDON TO THE CONTINENT.— For Paris there are trains and 
boats leaving every three hours via several different routes. Fares averaging : First class, los. 
5d., or about $2.50 United States money ; second class, 8s. 5d. Time occupied one and a half 
hours. 

FOR ROTTERDAM AND HOLLAND, every eight or nine hours. Fare, i8s. 



London 



LONDON occupies both banks of the Thames 
River about 50 miles above its estuary, the 
river, spanned by numerous fine bridges, 
flowing through the most southern part of the 
city with sluggish current and in long, winding 
reaches, its breadth being from 600 to 900 feet. 
Many factors have contributed to the greatness 
of London and its supremacy in the trade of 
the world. In the course of recent centuries, 
and particularly of the last, the Thames was 
deepened and provided with adequate dockage, 
so that the port of London was made available 
for the largest shipping of the world. From its 
docks extends an unsurpassed waterway by river 
and sea to all the coasts of northwest and west 
Europe. 

London County, and those widespread accre- 
tions on all sides of it, form Greater London. 
This area, accurately defined by the boundaries 
embracing the Metropolitan and City of London 
police district, covers an area of 693 square 
miles, and had a population in 1891 of 5,633,806, 
and in 1901 of 6,580,816. It includes all the 
territory within a radius of about 14 miles from 
Trafalgar Square — the County of London, the 
whole of Middlesex and parts of Surrey, Kent, 
Essex and Hertfordshire. 

There is no point of vantage in London where 
the whole city may be seen even on the clearest 



day. The view from the top of the Fire Monu- 
ment, centrally located, still reveals the roofs 
of numberless houses on the horizon. London 
has grown, not like most great cities around a 
center, but as the outcome of the merging to- 
gether of many towns and villages, each retain- 
ing its distinctive characteristics, and each dis- 
trict replete with historical associations. 

London is a giant among cities, but in beauti- 
ful, attractive aspect it is far inferior to many 
others, and in appearance is harsh to the eye. 
It has many fine buildings, but in its larger 
feature it is positively ugly when compared with 
Paris, for example ; which, particularly under 
the regime of Napoleon III., waxed not only in 
size and importance, but also esthetically and 
artistically. Love for the practical and useful 
predominated over love for the beautiful in the 
making of London. The prevailing cloud, mist 
and fog in the atmosphere of England, due to 
the neighboring seas, are intensified in this 
enormous aggregation of houses and inhabit- 
ants, and the exclusive use of bituminous coal 
both for domestic and industrial purposes fills 
the air with smoke, smirching the house walls, 
and giving the whole city a dingy look. 

BUILDINGS. — The greatest recent innova- 
tions in the building enterprise of London are 



242 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



the multiplication of very large and handsome 
hotels : the increased number of theaters, far 
surpassing the old structures in architecture and 
in safety, convenience and beauty of their in- 
terior arrangements and fittings ; and the erec- 
tion of apartment houses and flats, formerly un- 
known in London. All parts of London are 
alike in the fact that most of the houses are 
built of brick, and all are blackened by the 
smoke-laden fogs, though the West End suffers 
least from this discomfort. 

The most striking edifices in the City of Lon- 
don proper, which embraces only 673 acres, are 
banks, exchanges, warehouses and offices, among 
which still stand a number of buildings formerly 
the palaces of the nobility before commerce 
drove them farther west. During the day more 
than one million beings work within the narrow 
limits of the old city. 

Two of the royal palaces, once in the heart 
of the fashionable quarter, are now considerably 
east of the aristocratic part of London. These 
are Saint James's Palace, lying directly eastward 
of Belgravia, the most fashionable section of 
London ; and Buckingham Palace, isolated by 
the parks in front of it, and the royal private 
gardens in the rear, but within sound of the 
roar of commercial Victoria Street. Other nota- 
ble palaces are Marlborough House, the resi- 
dence of the Prince of Wales; Kensington Pal- 
ace, on the west of Kensington Gardens ; Lam- 
beth Palace, the archiepiscopal resic^gnce of the 
primates of England; and Whitehall, the ancient 
palace of the archbishops of York, replete with 
historic associations, and now used for public 
offices. There are many other famous buildings, 
but in this small space it is impossible to give 
them mention. 

MUSEUMS AND LIBRARIES.— London 

is especially rich in museums. They are among 
the finest in the world ; and some of them, de- 
voted to specialties, are particularly notable. Per- 
haps the most famous of modern collections are 
those of the British jMuseum, a vast edifice filled 
with countless treasures of art and nature. 
Many of its galleries are crowded with sculp- 
tures. The genius of Greece may be better 
studied in London than in Athens, since Lord 
Elgin brought his famous collection of marbles 
to London in 1816. 

The most interesting and admirable exam- 
ples of the sculptural arts of Egypt, Assyria and 
other parts of the ancient world may be seen in 
these galleries. The library contains about 
2,000,000 volumes. Since the museum was 
founded in 1753, the British nation has expended 
about $40,000,000 collecting, housing and caring 



for these treasures. The National Gallery in 
Trafalgar Square includes more than 1,500 
paintings, the old masters being well presented. 
The gallery has large funds at its disposal, and 
is thus enabled to secure many of the choicest 
specimens of European art. 

The Victoria and Albert Museum, formerly 
the South Kensington Museum, has a great va- 
riety of the choicest art products. It is not only 
a museum, but also the most important school 
of art and industrial science in Great Britain. 

COMMUNICATIONS.— Such immense mul- 
titudes as throng the leading thoroughfares of 
London during business hours are seen in few 
other streets of the world. From the spacious 
stations of the Metropolitan and other railroads 
about 1,000,000 persons are emptied into the 
streets every morning. Every day over 100,- 
000 foot passengers and over 20,000 vehicles 
cross London Bridge, the chief means of com- 
munication between the north and south banks 
of the Thames. Such thoroughfares as the 
Strand, Cheapside, Ludgate Hill, Cannon and 
Lombard streets on week-days are filled with 
a mass of omnibuses, cabs, carriages, truck- 
wagons and pedestrians. The omnibuses, though 
comparatively slow, carried 265,500,000 passen- 
gers in 1900. Thousands of cabs and carriages 
are largely patronized, for fares are cheap. A 
whistle blown on any door step in London is 
likely to bring a cab immediately. 

The more rapid means of transit are afforded 
by the underground railways 'which place all 
quarters of the town in communication with one 
another, and connect London with the great 
trunk lines that send trains to every part of the 
kingdom. The underground railroads have 
numerous stations scattered throughout the larger 
part of London and carry over 160,000,000 pas- 
sengers a year. 

The trunk lines have the most of their sta- 
tions, some of them palatial structures, not on 
the outskirts, but in the very heart of the city. 
The chief of these are Waterloo, Charing Cross, 
Victoria, London Bridge, Paddington, Euston 
Square, Saint Pancras, King's Cross, Broad 
Street, Liverpool Street, Bishopsgate and Fen- 
church Street. 

COMMERCE.— The value of the total for- 
eign trade of London has amounted for years 
past to considerably over $1,000,000,000 a year. 
The average annual tonnage of oversea shipping 
amounts to more than $16,000,000 a year. The 
tonnage of the oversea vessels that entered and 
cleared in 1900 was 16,700,727. 



243 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



Homeward Bound 



FROM London you have the choice of num- 
erous passenger steamers saihng regularly 
for New York. The steamers engaged in 
this run are the finest in the world, for nowhere 
has the march of progress been so noticeable as 
in the increased luxuriant facilities for passen- 
ger accommodation on the Atlantic Ocean. 

On your journey across the Atlantic your trav- 
eling companions are of a different class from 
those you met on the Pacific route. Now your 
comrades at sea are traveling westward to view, 
and to locate amid, the grandeurs of the West. 

Now that your circuit of the globe is about 
complete, you will feel that you have not spent 
your time without reward. If you have been 



physically broken down when you started, you 
will return invigorated and refreshed. If you 
have been in quest of information, you will 
return with increased knowledge of new lands 
and strange people. While on the other hand, 
if you have been on pleasure bent, your utmost 
wish in that direction will have been gratified. 
It is impossible for any one to return from so 
grand a voyage without having been benefited 
physically, mentally and morally ; and, as your 
ship draws near the Statue of Liberty, you can 
only feel that you have had a most enjoyable 
time, the recollection of which will linger with 
you through life, and give you great pleasure 
in after years as reference. 




KAISER WILHELM DER GROSSE 
German Mail, Atlantic Service 



Statue of Liberty 



WHEN approaching New York City from 
the sea you will be impressed with the 
symbol so typical of the country, a 
magnificent bronze statue of Liberty, presented 
to the people of the United States by the people 
of France. This statue is the largest in the 
world, and stands on Bedloe's Island in New 
York Harbor. The gift was designed to com- 
memorate the hundredth anniversary of Amer- 
ican independence. 

The statue represents a female figure in a 
standing position, holding a torch aloft to the 



heavens, measuring 112 feet in height, and to 
the extremity of the torch 152 feet. From the 
water to the extreme tip of the torch is a dis- 
tance of 306 feet. The head of the statue is 
sufficiently large to enable 40 people or more 
to stand inside at one time, to which there is 
access by a staircase on the inside, and also a 
branch staircase leading into the extended arms. 
The torch of the statue is equipped with electric 
lights vying at night in brillianc}' with the stars 
in heaven above, illuminating the entire har- 
bor about. 



New York City 



THE metropolis of the United States, the 
commercial center of the Western Hemi- 
sphere, and in many respects the first city 
of the world, is situated at the mouth of the Hud- 



son River, on New York Bay, near where it en- 
ters the Atlantic Ocean. This city is distant 205 
miles in a direct line northeast of A\"ashington, 
D. C. ; 715 miles east and a little south of Chi- 



244 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



cago; 190 miles southeast .of Boston; and its 
latitude is 40° 42' N. ; longitude, 74° W. 

New York City is by far the most progressive 
and modern city in known existence in the way 
of transportation, commerce, shipping facilities, 
railwaj' communication, and means of handling 
any line of business or the manufacturing of any 
article for the world's markets. 

The city as seen for the first time from the 
bay presents a most extraordinary maze of tow- 
ering office buildings, varying from ten to forty- 
one stories in height, and all huddled together 
in an apparent confusion and disorder upon 



is that of the Produce Exchange, a modern 
structure of steel, brick and terra cotta, with an 
imposing tower 225 feet high. Opposite the 
Exchange, on a plot of ground known as Bowl- 
ing Green, stands the new Custom-House, where 
at one time stood the official residence of the city 
and home of General Washington, the first Pres- 
ident of the United States. 

From Bowling Green north along Broadway, 
New York's principal thoroughfare, there are 
immense business structures, towering story 
after story heavenward, until they almost shut 
out the light of day — each edifice costing over 




EMPRESS OF IRELAND 
Canadian Pacific Steamship Company's Atlantic Steamer 



a Strip of land less than a mile wide. The 
modem "skyscraper" has been described as a 
"revolt against the laws of economics, striving 
to make a profit on little bits of land in spite 
of their enormous cost, and by the very struggle 
increasing their value." Owing to the scarcity 
of space and the tremendous value of land on 
Manhattan Island, it has become necessary to 
carry the buildings to such unusual heights, and 
to-day New York possesses many of the most 
remarkable structures on earth. 

Beginning at the Battery, at the foot of Man- 
hattan Island, the first building of importance 



a million dollars. Housed in these remarkable 
buildings is the home of some great corporation, 
as the Standard Oil Company, the Manhattan 
Life Insurance Company, the Commercial Cable 
Company, the Union Trust Company, and the 
Singer Sewing Machine Company besides hun- 
dreds of others. 

Nothing in the building world has caused so 
much discussion and such general interest as the 
Singer Building at Broadway and Liberty 
Street, the home and executive offices of the 
Singer Sewing Machine Company. This won- 
derful skyscraper is one of the most remarkable 



24s 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



buildings in the world and dominates all others 
in New York City. 

It is constructed upon bedrock 90 feet below 
the street surface, on a base 65 feet square. The 
tower portion of the building rises 62 feet 11 
inches above the main building, and its grace- 
ful lines pierce the clouds. The height of the 
main building from sidewalk to roof is 192 
feet. The ground area is about 24,000 square 
feet, while the total flooring of the building 
constitutes something over 411,333 square feet, 
or nearly ten acres. Its tower is 60 feet taller 
than the Philadelphia City Hall, 80 feet taller 
than the spires of the Cologne Cathedral. 
There are 39 stories above the curb, two below 
it, two in the roof and six in the lantern, mak- 
ing 49 stories in all. Installed in the building 
are 16 specially designed Otis elevators of the 
traction type. 

A wonderful feature of this building is that 



a caiion more than a city street. The name 
of Wall Street has come to be synonymous with 
the world's financial district; its securities listed 
on the stock exchange in 1906 amounted to 
$1,039, 422, 050. The banks of this district 
represent a total capital of $173,339,700, while 
the savings bank deposits last year were $2,935,- 
204,845. 

In Cedar Street, a few doors from Broadway, 
is the Clearing-House, maintained by the asso- 
ciated banks of New York, a beautiful structure 
of white marble. Liberty Street claims the pa- 
latial home of the Chamber of Commerce. At 
the junction of Broadway and Park Row stands 
the Post-office, a large and imposing composite 
structure, or Doric and Renaissance, upon a tri- 
angular plot. Opposite the post-office is Saint 
Paul's Chapel, where Washington's pew is 
shown to visitors. Across the way is the old 
Astor House, a granite hotel which fifty years 




THE NEW SINGER BUILDING IN ITS RELATION TO THE SKY-LINE OF NEW YORK 



there is not a cubic inch of wood in the entire 
constructing material, even the sashes and doors 
are of metal, and the floors of marble and ce- 
ment, making it absolutely fireproof, and the 
only possible means of fire starting would be 
caused by the desks and papers in the rooms. 
This building stands as a monument of thrift 
and enterprise, and of the development into 
the greatest sewing machine manufacturing 
company in the world. In the year 185 1 Isaac 
M. Singer, of the little village of Oswego, New 
York, patented a sewing machine which was 
destined to become the leading machine in every 
home here and abroad. 

From Trinity Church, running east to the 
river, is Wall Street, a narrow thoroughfare 
so completely lined on both sides with buildings 
from twenty to thirty-five stories high, used by 
banks and financial institutions, as to resemble 



ago was considered the most luxurious estab- 
lishment of its kind in the country. Near by 
are the entrance to the Brooklyn Bridge, the 
great buildings of the World, Tribune and 
Times on the east, and the lofty structures of 
the Postal Telegraph Building and Home In- 
surance Company on the west. 

At Twenty-third Street and Broadway stands 
another very remarkable structure known as 
the Flatiron Building, so named because its 
shape resembles the base of a flatiron. It stands 
upon a triangle 87 by 190 feet, and towers 
heavenward for twenty stories, presenting a 
striking appearance in contrast with its sur- 
roundings. 

At the junction of Broadway and Forty-sec- 
ond Street stands the Times Building, resem- 
bling somewhat the Flatiron. This building is 
the home of the New York Times, and is re- 



246 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



markable for the fact that while New York's 
great subway passes through the structure 
obHquely, a story and a half underground, no 
part of the subway construction touches the 
building at any point. 

The building has a pumping station 6i feet 
below the street, an elevator rise of 326 feet, 
a smokestack 389 feet high, a newspaper work- 
shop located under the subway track, with an 
area of 16,000 square feet, holding presses that 
are able to print, fold and count 432,000 16- 
page papers per hour. It is completely installed 
with electricity, of which it is the show place 
on Manhattan Island, electricity being put to 
more use here than in any other building in 
America. No steam is used except to heat the 
building in winter. There are 109 motors with 
1,175 horse-power capacity. The immense 
presses, paper-hoists, shavers, blowers, jig-saws, 
drills, lathes and all other machinery of an up- 
to-date newspaper plant are run by electricity. 

The Church Street terminal station, now near- 
ing completion, of the New York & New Jersey 
Railroad is the largest in the world. The struc- 
tural steel necessary to hold up the edifice will 
alone weigh over 24,000 tons, and the whole 
building, when completed, will have a theoretical 
living and dead load of 200,000 tons. Some 16,- 
300,000 bricks will be necessary to build the 
structure above the curb line ; enough, if laid 
end to end, to reach over 2,000 miles. There 
will be 1,100,000 cubic feet of concrete used 
in erecting the floor arches. In the whole build- 
ing there will be over 75,000,000 pounds of 
concrete. The exterior will require over 4,500 
tons of architectural terra cotta for its adorn- 
ment. There will be 5,000 doors and 5,000 win- 
dows in the building. The area of the glass 
in these windows will be 120,000 square feet, 
enough, if laid flat upon the ground, to cover 
three square city blocks. There will be 520,000 
square yards of plastering, and of plumbing 
pipe 88,000 feet, or over 15 miles. The con- 
duit in lineal feet measures 500,000, or nearly 
95 miles. There will be over 113 miles of 
wiring. The lighting of the building will re- 
quire 30,000 incandescent lamps attached to 
13,000 fixtures. 

There will be thirty-nine elevators to be op- 
erated electrically, the lineal foot run of which 
will be altogether over two miles, so that if they 
all made a complete round trip at the same time 
the total distance traveled would be over four 
miles. These 39 elevators, expected to handle 
over 30,000 persons daily, are capable of trav- 
eling at the rate of 500 feet a minute, and repre- 
sent the largest number ever installed in an 
office building. Twenty-two will be express 
cars rising without a stop to the eleventh floor; 
the remaining seventeen will be for local use, 
stopping at every floor up to the eleventh. 

More people will pass through this terminal 



than through any other building in the world. 
It is estimated that over one thousand persons 
a minute will pass through its corridors and 
the station beneath, or at least six hundred thou- 
sand persons in the course of a day. Aside from 
the floating population, the building will have 
as permanent occupants at least ten thousand 
persons — exceeding the population of many 
small towns. 



CHURCHES.— New York 
hundred of all denominations. 



has over eight 




SINGER BUILDING 

SCHOOLS. — The number within the city is 
over 500. Of corporate schools, orphan asylums 
and industrial schools there are about 50, with 
an average attendence of 18,000. 

LIBRARIES. — The city is abundantly sup- 
plied with libraries. The Public Library is a 
vast structure of white marble, 366 feet long 
and 246 feet wide, located at Fifth Avenue, be- 
tween Fortieth and Forty-second Streets. Its 



247 



INTERNATIONAL 
BANKING CORPORATION 



60 WALL STREET 
NEW YORK 



Capital, 
Surplus, 



$3,2^0,000.00 
J,2^0,000.0O 



THOMAS H. HUBBARD 

PRESIDENT 

JAMES S. FEARON 

VICE-PRESIDENT 




Depository for the 
Funds of the Government 
of the PhiHppine Islands 



LONDON 
BOMBAY 
CALCUTTA 
SINGAPORE 



PENANG 

HONGKONG 

CANTON 



BRAIVCHES 

MANILA 

CEBU 

SHANGHAI 



Correspondents 

in all parts 

of the World 



YOKOHAMA 

KOBE 

SAN FRANCISCO 



CITY OF MEXICO 
WASHINGTON 
PANAMA 
COLON 



248 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



estimated cost is about $5,000,000. It has suf- 
ficient shelving space to hold 1,250,000 volumes. 
The first circulating library dates from 1880, 
and at present there are sixteen circulating li- 
braries and reading-rooms, which form a part 
of the general system, including the New York 
Library, the New York Free Circulating Library 
and others. 

THEATERS.— Within the City of New York 
there are forty theaters and almost as many 
more variety and concert halls. The largest 
of the theaters is the Metropolitan Opera House, 
opened in 1883 and occupies a block bounded 
by Broadway, Seventh Avenue, Thirty-ninth and 
Fortieth Streets. Its seating capacity will ac- 
commodate 3,200. The largest and most luxuri- 
ous of the city's theaters are generally located 
on Broadway, or at least near by. The total 
seating capacity of New York's places of amuse- 
ments has been estimated at nearly one hundred 
thousand. 

The New York Hippodrome is the greatest 
indoor amusement enterprise in the world. It 
is the largest play-house ever erected; is fire- 
proof in construction, handsome in architecture 
and fittings, and as it stands to-day, represents 
an outlay of $3,000,000. It is the home of pro- 
ductions which find no parallel, even remotely, 
on any other stage in the theatrical history of 
the past or present — productions of a magnitude, 
magnificence and grandeur which have made 
the Hippodrome known throughout the world. 
Records show that it has been visited by 3,500,- 
000 persons since its opening night in April, 
1905, less than eighteen months ago. So vast 
an audience would fill any other theater in Amer- 
ica for three years, with a performance every 
day. 

The idea of the Hippodrome was conceived 
because of the great popularity of such institu- 
tions in London and Paris. But the buildings 
of the foreign capitals could be easily housed 
in the New York Hippodrome. 

The building occupies an entire city block, 
with a frontage of 200 feet; it has a depth of 
240 feet and is no feet high. It will seat com- 
fortably 5,022 persons, and in hot weather its 
atmosphere is tempered and cooled by a refrig- 
erating plant, installed at a cost of $50,000. 
This plant operates an elaborate system of fans 
and ventilators, making the air dry and cool 
at all times. There are two immense balconies, 
each with a seating capacity of more than two 
thousand, overlooking orchestra stalls sufficient 
to accommodate the full complement of the 
average theater. Smoking is permitted in the 
balconies only at the evening performances. 

The lighting facilities are on a scale hitherto 
unheard of in theaters and moved Thomas A. 
Edison to say, after he had witnessed a per- 
formance, that it was one of the most wonderful 



features of the building. From the operating 
board on the stage alone, 25,000 electric lights 
are handled by one man. Of this number 9,000 
are used to illuminate the 100 dressing-rooms 
wherein are accommodations for seven hundred 
persons. 

The cost of this great playhouse was some- 
thing over two and one-half millions of dollars, 
and it is so constructed with thirty-five emer- 
gency exits as to enable the crowded house to 
be emptied in less than five minutes. There are 




TIMES BUILDING 

two performances daily, and are made up of 
opera, drama, circus, spectacular and musical 
comedy. 

HOTELS.— New York has over three hun- 
dred hotels, among which about forty may be 
enumerated as strictly first class. The three 
largest and best-known are the "Waldorf-As- 
toria,"' the "Astor" and "Knickerbocker." The 
"Waldorf-Astoria" is built upon a site of the 
family mansions in which lived for many years 
John Jacob Astor and William Astor, his 
brother. This great structure covers the block 
between Thirty-third and Thirty-fourth Streets, 
bordering Fifth Avenue, and having a depth of 
500 feet. It is 16 stories in height and contains- 



249 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



over i,ooo rooms for guests, a large ballroom, 
a number of smaller apartments used for public 
dinners, concerts, etc. The "Buckingham," at 
Fifth Avenue and Thirtieth Street; the Murray 
Hill, at Park Avenue and Forty-first Street; the 
Manhattan, at Madison Avenue and Forty-sec- 
ond Street; the Netherland and the Savoy, at 
Fifth Avenue and Fifty-ninth Street, are large 
and luxurious hostelries, which accommodate 
from 800 to 2,000 guests. 

Farther down-town are a number of Broad- 
way hotels, such as the "Fifth Avenue," at 
Twenty-third Street; the "Hoffman House," at 
Twenty-fifth Street; and the "Imperial," at 
Thirty-second Street — all equally popular with 
the traveling public. Several immense hotels, 
among which may be mentioned the "Plaza," 
at Fifty-ninth Street and Fifth Avenue, and the 
"Majestic," at Seventy-second Street and Central 
Park West, are known as family hotels of the 
best type. The most luxuriant restaurants in 
the city are Delmonico's at Forty-fourth Street 
and Fifth Avenue, and Sherry's almost opposite. 

NEWSPAPERS.— There are forty-eight 
daily newspapers published in the City of New 
York, with ninety-five weekly papers and seven- 
ty-two monthly publications, not including the 
trade journals and religious organs. 

CITY TRANSPORTATION.— The prob- 
lem of passenger transportation within the limits 
of New York has offered some peculiar difficul- 
ties, owing to the different commercial districts 
and the narrowness of Manhattan Island. The 
wholesale and financial section of the city is situ- 
ated at the lower end of the island, the shopping 
district in the middle, while the dwelling districts 
are at the upper end, and across the waterways 
and surrounding regions. The crowding throngs 
and discomfort experienced on the various car 
and ferry lines during the rush hours surpass 
anything of the kind known in any other city 
in the world. 

There are car lines on almost all the thorough- 
fares leading north from the business district, 
and the limit of surface transportation has long 
since been reached. There is an extensive ele- 
vated electric system extending from the Battery 
to all parts of the Island of Manhattan and 
across the Harlem River into northern suburban 
districts. 

New York City has the greatest underground 
railway system in the world, extending from one 
end of Manhattan to the other, with four tracks, 
express trains running on the two middle lines, 
and locals on the outer ones. This great tunnel 
route carries annually over 200,000,000 passen- 
gers, upon trains composed of ten and twelve 
cars, which glide almost noiselessly and with sur- 
prising speed from one end of the island to the 
other. The express trains are due every three 



minutes and make the run from the City Hall 
station to Forty-second Street, Grand Central 
station, in six minutes, and between other points 
in correspondingly short time. The local trains 
run every five minutes, but during the rush hours 
the local and express trains are placed on a 
schedule of every three minutes. 

The cost of building this underground system 
was $5,000,000, and the constructors were 
granted the right to operate the road for fifty 
years. 

The ever increasing demand for more rapid 
means of transportation has caused the under- 
taking of one of the most gigantic engineering 
enterprises of the century, and that is tunneling 
under the Hudson River. In itself the scheme is 
so vast as to challenge ordinary mastery, until its 
main features are singly enumerated and its 
object and scope measured by figures. Even 
then, though ignorant of the colossal difficulties 
that face the engineers, and the novel features 
and problems that had to be solved for the first 
time in history, it is hardly possible to grasp the 
magnitude of the work that within another year 
will be a finished, practical reality. Operation 
was begun in 1892, and since then 3,500 men 
have been working night and day, three shifts, 
with an exclusive staff of 200 experts, officials 
and engineers in charge. The estimate cost of 
the enterprise is $60,000,000, exclusive of the 
$8,000,000 terminal station now complete at 
Courtland and Church Street, Manhattan. About 
300 cars will be maintained for a constant suc- 
cession of trains through the tunnels on a head- 
way of one and one-half minutes apart. The 
passage will be directly under the river from the 
present Pennsylvania station in Jersey City to 
the terminal at Church and Courtland Street and 
will take three minutes to make the run ; from 
Newark, fifteen minutes; from the Hoboken 
station of the tunnel to Thirty-third Street, New 
York, the run will be one of nineteen minutes ; 
from Newark to Thirty-third Street, New York, 
one of twenty-nine minutes. 

For the improvement and extension of facili- 
ties for railroad transportation in New York 
City, in the neighborhood of $200,000,000 are 
now being expended. Part of these millions are 
going into the construction of a new Grand Cen- 
tral station, the terminal in the heart of the city, 
of the lines of the New York Central and Hudson 
River Railroad. It will require seven years in 
all to complete this structure, which will cover 
six city blocks and contain within itself a 
"double-decked" railroad yard — one yard at the 
street level, the other twenty-five or thirty feet 
below. Need for this great structure is found 
in the fact that the railroad must handle half a 
million persons a day in its inward bound and 
outward going trains. This is the daily average. 
In holiday times or on the occasion of great con- 
ventions the number is augmented a hundred 



250 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



thousand or so. At least half of the passengers 
are "commuters," persons living in towns and 
cities within forty miles of New York, who come 
to business in the city in the morning and return 
to their homes in the afternoon and early evening. 
This vast industrial and commercial army must 
be transported one way or the other within three 
hours, most of it within two. To express this 
in more concrete form, it means that between the 
hours of 7 and 9 o'clock in the morning every in- 
habitant of a city of 125,000 population walks — 
man, woman and child — out of the doors of the 
Grand Central station, and that between the 
hours of half-past 4 and half-past 6 o'clock in 
the evening this same horde trudges back through 
the same doors, to be whirled away in trains as 
fast as they arrive. This is why this great 
station is being built to handle the great throng, 
and to prepare for that greater throng indicated 



level, containing some eighteen tracks, it will in 
future be divided between fifty tracks and two 
levels ; through passengers arriving and departing 
from the upper floors and suburban passengers 
using the yard underground. 

The present Grand Central station is one of 
the finest in the world. Its rotundas are entered 
through large lobbies and vestibules on all four 
sides. Separate windows are placed at the side 
for the convenience of ladies securing tickets, 
drawing-room or sleeping-car accommodations ; 
and this is just one evidence of the studied ef- 
forts that have been made all through the station 
for the benefit of ladies traveling alone. There 
is a sitting-room exclusively for ladies, situated 
in the southwest corner of the building. Easy 
chairs, attendant maids, the fresh and dainty 
toilet rooms where the stains of travel may be 
removed, and the tea room just at hand, provide 




RAILWAY STATION, NEW YORK CENTRAL RAILROAD 



by the rapid growth of New York City and its 
suburbs. 

Work on the terminal was begun three years 
ago, and incessantly since that time gangs of 
laborers have been excavating for the double- 
decked railroad yard. With them have worked 
electricians running wires for lighting, firemen 
and engineers running stationary engines to 
drive drills into the rock for blasts, and track- 
men moving and relaying rails that the great 
traffic of a city may not be stopped, for this 
Herculean labor must be performed without in- 
terference with the everyday business of the 
road. Nothing has been done yet toward actual 
construction of the gigantic building which shall 
cover this huge cellarway of traffic, but four 
years remain for the completion of the whole. 

While the present station is one block wide and 
two blocks long, the new one will be two blocks 
wide and three blocks long, its width extending 
from Vanderbilt to Lexington Avenues and its 
length from Forty-second Street to Forty-fifth 
Street. Where all traffic is now handled on one 



means of refreshment so grateful to the weary 
traveler. 

Among the many other conveniences are 
found parcel rooms, telephone booths, telegraph 
and cable offices, messenger service, flower and 
fruit stands. On the east side of the rotunda 
masculine humanity reigns. Luxurious privacy 
is found in the smoking room and the cigar and 
news stands are close by. Toilet-rooms, barber 
and bootblack are all at hand. 

The bureau of information is just opposite the 
main entrance. Here information is given in 
regard to hotels, theaters, clubs and resorts, or 
other railway lines, steamships or ferries. It 
is here you will gaze in wonder upon the maze 
of tracks and multitude of cars going and com- 
ing in an endless throng without the least ap- 
parent confusion, and hear the throbbing of the 
mighty engines, seemingly restless to be on the 
move hurling passengers out over the great 
stretches of the Union. It is while looking at 
this great scene that you realize to what ex- 
tent the means of transportation has developed. 



251 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



Personal Memoranda of the Owner 
of this Book 



Name 

Profession - 

Residence and address 

In event of accident whom to notify.. 

Departed from what port , 

Destination ..._ , 

Disposition of body in event of death. 

My will may be found, at 

My lawyers are ......... 

Member of fraternal order;.; 



Life insurance number is .........Company 

Size of my glove. ..Hat Collars ...Shoes. 



PLACES VISITED ON TOUR AROUND THE WORLD 



PLACE 


DATE OF ARRIVAL 


DATE OF DEPARTURE 































































252 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



General Information for the Traveler 

THE rapid increase in ocean transportation, and the keen competition by the different 
steamship companies has placed trips around the world within the reach of almost every 
one with ordinary means. 
The advantage of a " World Tour " is obvious, needing but little emphasis. Apart from 
such a comprehensive journey, and the store of vastly interesting objects that constantly 
confronts one in strange lands, amid strange scenes, among strange people, their govern- 
ment, their lives and habits, make the trip indispensable as an educator and as yielding in- 
tensely valuable and interesting memories through life. 

At present it is possible to procure a ticket, traveling first class, completely around the 
world, at an approximate cost of $500. 

TICKETS. — For those intending to make a tour around the world it is far more satisfac- 
tory to purchase tickets from port to port. In traveling westward from New York a ticket 
may be bought through direct to Yokohama, but from there it is far more convenient to pur- 
chase your ticket to different points along your route, for there are many side trips which you 
are sure to make, and were you traveling on a round-trip ticket it would be impossible for 
you to side-step the route, except at additional expense. 

To those possessing limited means and wishing to see all that is possible for the least 
expense, it is advantageous to purchase tickets from place to place. After reaching Asia, 
where the French, German, and English mail routes maintain a regular service to Europe, 
one can 'travel in perfect comfort second class. 

As a rule, the American people are seriously prejudiced against traveling second class, but 
this is due entirely to ignorance regarding the accommodations for second class passage on 
those ships. The second class is patronized by a large majority of the best European people, 
and it is often repeated that only "fools and Americans travel first class." 

In event of traveling with your wife or family, and not compelled to economize, then, 
of course, first class is better, but, when alone, second class will offer every comfort you re- 
quire. 

LETTERS OF CREDIT. — Letters of credit are the most convenient form in which to 
carry funds for the trip, as they can be converted into ready money at any bank or by any 
banking correspondent in all parts of the world, and at the same time serve as a sort of general 
letter of introduction when arriving in a strange city. They also save loss that might otherwise 
be incurred by changing money at a money-changer's office and when not familiar with the 
rates of exchange. 

The banks of Asia and money-changers are not in business for their health, as you will 
discover if you have any money to convert, they make the most of their profit from exchange, 
and the traveling public is frequently imposed upon. 

BAGGAGE. — When traveling one should carry as small amount of baggage as possible, 
for the care of baggage is one of the constant worries and sources of expense while traveling. 
Your equipment should consist of a steamer trunk not to exceed three and a half feet long, 
by fourteen inches high. This size will be found most convenient to place under your 
cabin berth on all steamers. You should also have a larger trunk for placing articles which 
you do not require for immediate use, as when traveling in a warm climate you will store 
your heavy clothing away, or vice versa. A dress-suit case will be found very convenient, 
and a small hand-bag for placing toilet articles, etc.; also, a canvas bag is very essential for 
soiled clothing. 

Your baggage should be of the best quality, for the handling by different railways and 
steamship employes is far from careful. Then again in traveling one is often judged by the 
baggage he carries. 

Travel with the least number of pieces possible. 

Baggage allowed on Trans-Pacific steamers : 350 pounds for each first-cabin passenger ; 
250 pounds for each servant or intermediate passenger; 175 pounds for each steerage pas- 
senger. 

Excess baggage via the Trans-Pacific steamship lines is 3 cents per pound. 

253 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 

Amount of Baggage Allowed on Lines to Asia from Europe. 

North German Lloyd Steamship Company 40 cubic feet. 

Messageries Maritime Steamship Company 40 cubic feet. 

Nippon Yusen Kaisha Steamship Company 40 cubic feet. 

Shaw Saville & Albion Company 40 cubic feet. 

Peninsular & Oriental Steam Navigation Company . . 336 pounds. 

China Navigation Company 350 pounds. 

Eastern & Australia Steamship Company 350 pounds. 

Orient Royal Mail Line 40 cubic feet. 

On all Trans-Atlantic lines the allowance is 20 cubic feet for each first-, second-, and third- 
cabin passenger. 

Baggage allowance on railway trains: 

Indian Railways 112 pounds. 

English Railways 112 pounds. 

French Railways 60 pounds. 

German Railways 60 pounds. 

Italian Railways No allowance. 

Switzerland, no free baggage is allowed except on Messrs. Cook & Sons' circular tickets. 
By all means when traveling in Europe procure a receipt for all baggage. 

CLOTHING. — For Japan and China, clothes the same as used in America are suitable ; for 
Philippines, Siam, Straits Settlements, Java, India, and Ceylon one should carry a light cash- 
mere suit, or linen, with canvas shoes, but by all means avoid white clothing in the tropics, 
at least when traveling. When arriving at Singapore, the traveler should provide himself with 
a "solar topee" or sun hat, made of pith. Underclothing should be procured for above 
countries. 

LAUNDRY. — In the Far Eastern country one must not expect to have washing done 
with the same neatness as in America, for the means of caring for clothing is very poor, and 
always done by natives. 

It is advisable to not send any valuable clothing to the laundry, for it is almost certain to 
be ruined. 

PURCHASE OF CURIOS.— The Americaa traveler must bear in mind that he is a mark 
the world over, and dealers in curios and fancy articles have become imbued with the impres- 
sion that an American has money to burn, consequently prices asked are in many cases ten 
times their actual selling price. It is very essential that you ascertain from some reliable 
person the average selling price of goods before you make any great amount of purchases. 

In the 1908 issue of this guide will appear a list of different articles usuedly purchased by 
the traveler, with their approximate cost, and from it the traveler can gain an accurate knowl- 
edge of the values. 

Each port visited while traveling around the world is noted for some certain specialty, as 
Yokohama for fancy embroideries and ladies' fancy wearing apparel; Kobe for Satsuma ware; 
Nagasaki for tortoise-shell work ; Shanghai for Chinese silk and embroidered linens ; Hongkong 
for Canton linen ; Singapore for various articles ; Colombo, Ceylon, for precious stones, etc. 

PASSPORTS FOR AMERICAN CITIZENS.— Passports authorizing the bearer to travel 
in foreign countries can be procured either from the State Department at Washington, when 
residing in the United States, or from the United States Ministers upon proper proof of being 
a native or naturalized American citizen. Passports may be procured at the following places 
in foreign lands : Tokyo, Japan ; Peking, China ; Hongkong ; Manila, Philippines ; Paris, France, 
and London, England. 

Travelers in France, Belgium, Holland, Denmark, Germany, Austria, Switzerland, Italy, 
and Spain are rarely asked to produce passports. They however serve as a means of identifica- 
tion and for procuring registered letters addressed to the traveler at post-offices. 

It is always well, too, to have a passport when traveling in the provinces of France. In 
Austria persons unprovided vdth a passport are subject to arrest, while in Germany and 
Switzerland persons staying more than six weeks in one town are required to produce a pass- 
port. 

Passports are indispensable to travelers in Russia and Turkey. These passports must 
also have the vise of the Russian or Turkish consul-general at Washington, or the place 
from where it was issued. 

254 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 

RAILWAY TRAVEL IN INDIA.— As a general rule the Indian Railway cars are of the 
Bogie type and divided into four compartments, two first-class and two second-class. Each 
first-class compartment contains four sleeping berths or sofas, which run lengthwise of the 
train. Two of these berths are "lower" and two "upper." 

Each second-class compartment contains five berths, three "lower" and two "upper." A 
single ticket entitles the passenger to one of the berths in the first-class compartment, but 
the railways do not guarantee lying-down accommodations, i.e., a whole berth, to a second- 
class passenger. 

During the cool season in India, November to February, the trains are usually filled, so 
it would be advisable to engage your compartment in advance. 

Baggage required on your journey should be taken in the compartment with you, and 
other baggage shipped on to the farthest point your ticket calls for. More baggage is carried 
in the Indian trains than in American cars. 

REFRESHMENTS. — The mail trains of India have no dining-car attached, but the 
trains stop three times a day for about twenty minutes for meals. The guard of the train 
generally asks passengers whether they require meals and will telegraph ahead to the refresh- 
ment rooms at the station the number of meals required. The refreshment rooms are, as a 
general rule, excellent, and the traveler need not carry food. 

SERVANTS. — Every person traveling in India should have a servant, for without one 
he will find himself badly off, as the hotel proprietors in India are not contented with robbing 
you in way of charges, but they do not furnish servants to await upon their guests except in 
very small numbers. 

A good English-speaking servant can be procured for 20 to 40 rupees per month, owing; 
to the number in your party. 

BEDDING. — Every traveler in India must take his own bedding with him. For the 
hotels throughout India live back in the medieval ages, and none of them supply bedding, 
only in extreme cases. The traveler should take his own towels and soap. 

A roll of bedding usually consists of a pair of sheets, a pillow and pillow-case, a warm 
rug or blanket, and a quilt. These latter are stuffed with cotton, and can be procured at 
any European store. 

Your bedding will be found necessary on the railway trains, and when traveling in North- 
em India a good heavy blanket should be carried. Blanket rolls with a heavy canvas cover 
will be found the best for traveling purposes. 

RAILROAD TRAVEL IN ITALY. — Travelers are strongly advised to take the quick 
trains, which run between all centers, and a first-class ticket is more necessary than in all 
other countries. 

All luggage, if not securely locked, will be rejected by the railway or corded by them 
at some expense of time and a small extra tariff. No valuables should be included in your 
baggage not with you personally, as theft is frequent. 

RAILWAY TRAVEL IN GERMANY.— Practically all German railways are Govern- 
ment lines and exceedingly well managed. The second-class carriages will compare with 
the first-class in the United States, and every one travels second-class. 

The special trains between Cologne, Berlin, Dresden, Frankfort, Munich, etc., have num- 
bered seats and small tables even in the second class, as well as a side promenade corridor lead- 
ing through the whole train to the restaurant car, whence refreshments can also be ordered 
to one's own compartment. Two marks above ordinary express fare is demanded for these 
trains whether the journey be long or short and it is well worth paying the additional 
amount. 

There are numbers of porters at every station who are distinguished by the metal badge 
on their breast, who will take charge of your baggage and give all 'information regarding 
transferring from one train to another. Their charge is 10 pf. each package, but an additional 
tip is expected, and he will be found a very affable personage. 

Custom-house formalities are lenient. 

RAILROAD TRAVEL IN FRANCE.— All French railways are monopolies of large 
companies who, being free from competition, to a great extent ignore the comforts of the 
traveler. 

The second class is not comfortable. 

2.1s 



Stations 

$10.00 


Drawing Room 
$18.00 


5.00 
23.00 
28.00 


9.00 
44.00 
71.00 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 

Custom house rules are severe, and the officials have a very important air, and a raised 
hat to them ofttimes works miracles. 

The railroad restaurants are first class, and before ordering you should demand the price, 
and examine your change carefully, as there are many obsolete coins in circulation in France. 

TIPS AT HOTELS IN EUROPE. — Porters at hotels are rarely, if ever, paid, and should 
therefore always be tipped. Where " Service " is charged on the bill no tip is necessary to 
any other servant except the head waiter, if obliging; but extra service given should always 
be paid for. 

The American traveler is almost always too generous in his tips. A franc a day (20 
cents United States currency) is sufficient for all ordinary service. 

TIPS IN INDIA. — India has been called the beggars' land, and it well deserves the 
name. The natives on all sides are asking for money, and if one simply looks at one, he extends 
his hand for money. 

Where you have your own servant it is not necessary to give many tips, but in all cases 
a few coppers will suffice. 

SLEEPING-CAR RATES ACROSS THE UNITED STATES. 

Berths 

Between New York and Chicago $5.00 

Between Chicago and Missouri River 2.50 

Between Missouri River and San Francisco 11.50 

Between New York and San Francisco 19.00 

UNITED STATES CUSTOMS LAWS RELATIVE TO PERSONAL EFFECTS.— All 
persons on their arrival in the United States are required to make a declaration under oath of 
all dutiable articles obtained by them abroad. 

The declaration will be verified by a careful examination of the contents of the package. In 
order to expedite the inspection and to facilitate your departure, you are requested to answer 
fully the questions of the acting deputy collector at the time of taking your declaration. A 
failure to frankly answer is likely to arouse suspicion and to cause a minute scrutiny of your 
baggage and consequent delay. 

The senior member of a family may include all the members thereof in his or her declara- 
tion. 

State the exact number of pieces of baggage in which your effects are contained. 

Give the cost or foreign value of each dutiable article. 

As far as practicable, keep your original receipted bills for all purchases of any import- 
ance during your stay abroad. 

When packing your baggage for your return trip it would be well to prepare a list of 
articles so purchased, with the prices paid for each. 

If these articles are so placed in your trunks that you can easily find and exhibit them for 
appraisement, much time and inconvenience will be saved. 

Each person is entitled to bring 50 cigars and 300 cigarettes for his own use. All cigars 
and cigarettes in excess of this number and less than 3,000 are liable to seizure, but in meri- 
torious cases may be released by the payment of a fine equal to the duty and the internal 
revenue tax. 

Duties will be assessed at the foreign market value at the time of exportation, ynth. due 
allowance for wear or depreciation. A failure to declare dutiable articles in your possession 
will render the same liable to seizure and confiscation, and you to criminal prosecution. 

In case passengers are dissatisfied with the values placed upon dutiable articles, they have 
the privilege to demand a re-examination, but application therefor should be immediately 
made to the deputy collector at the pier. If, for any reason, this is impracticable, the pack- 
ages containing the articles should be left in customs custody and application for reap- 
praisement made to the Collector of the Custom House, in writing, within two days after the 
original appraisement. 

No request for reappraisement can be entertained after the articles have been removed 
from customs custody. 

Baggage intended for delivery at another port may be forwarded thereto upon applica- 
tion, without the assessment of duty at the port of arrival. 

Any baggage or personal effects in transit through the United States to any foreign 
country may, on application, be forwarded to the port of departure. 

256 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 

The officer taking your declaration will advise you on this point. 

Representatives of various railroads and express companies will be found on the pier 
and will take charge of your baggage and forward it to destination, if desired. 

RESIDENTS OF THE UNITED STATES.— A resident of the United States returning 
thereto is entitled to bring with him, free of duty, personal effects taken abroad by him 
as baggage, provided they have not been remodeled or improved abroad so as to increase 
their value, and in addition thereto, articles purchased or otherwise obtained abroad, of a 
total value not exceeding one hundred dollars. Such articles may be for the use of the person 
bringing them or for others, but not for sale. 

To prevent the use of the foregoing provision as a cloak for smuggling, customs officials 
are instructed to inquire into the bona fides of the journey and the actual ownership of the 
goods. Either the presence of an unusual amount of any class of highly dutiable merchan- 
dise, or frequent and hasty journeys, is sufficient to raise the presumption of bad faith. 
Such cases will be subject to most careful scrutiny and prosecution. 

Articles obtained abroad, whether exempt from duty or otherwise, should be declared, 
and an allowance of one hundred dollars for articles obtained abroad will be made by the 
deputy collector upon the pier. 

NON-RESIDENTS OF THE UNITED STATES are entitled to bring with them as 
baggage, free of duty, all wearing apparel, articles of personal adornment, toilet articles, and 
similar personal effects in actual use and necessary and appropriate for the wear and use of 
such persons and their present comfort and convenience, not intended for other persons or 
for sale. 

Non-residents, for the purpose of customs administration, are divided into three classes: 

(i) Actual residents of other countries. 

(2) Persons who have been abroad for the purpose of study, restoration of health, or for 
other specific objects, and have had a fixed foreign abode for one year or more. 

(3) Persons who have been abroad for two years or more for any purpose whatsoever, 
and have had during that time a fixed place of abode for one year or more. 

HOUSEHOLD EFFECTS of persons or families from foreign countries will be ad- 
mitted free of duty if actually used abroad by them not less than one year, and not intended 
for any other person or for sale. 



SEALSKIN GARMENTS.— The law expressly forbids the importation into the United 
States of garments made in whole or in part of the skins of prohibited fur seals, and unless 
the owner is able to establish by competent evidence, and to the satisfaction of the collector, 
either that the garment was purchased prior to December 29, 1897, or that the animal from 
which the skin was taken was captured elsewhere than in prohibited waters, entry will not be 
allowed. 

Residents who desire to take sealskin garments abroad may have them registered with 
the collector. 

DIFFERENCES OF TIME 

Between London and Some of the Principal Cities Visited in a Tour Around the World. 



H. M. 

Aden 3 

Alexandria i 

Bombay 4 

Brindisi i 

Calcutta 5 

Geneva o 

Gibraltar o 

Madras 5 

Malta o 

Melbourne 9 43 






earlier 


so 


earlier 


.S1/2 


earlier 


12 


earlier 


,S4 


earlier 


243/2 


earlier 


21 


later 


21 


later 


58 


later 


4^ 


later 



H. M. 

New York 4 56 later 

Paris o gyi earlier 

Rome o 50 earlier 



8 10 later 
33% earlier 



San Francisco . . . 

Shanghai 8 

Singapore 6 55^/2 earlier 

Suez 2 10 earlier 

Sydney 10 5 earlier 

Washington 5 8 later 

Yokohama 9 183^ earlier 



257 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



Hotel Directory 



THE hotels throughout the United States are, as a rule, very well appointed and main- 
tained, either on the "American plan," at which the prices range from $3 a day upward, 
including board and lodging, or on the "European plan" costing from $1 per day up- 
ward (according to the location of the room selected) providing for lodging only. 

In the large cities the principal hotels are run on the European plan, but first-class res- 
taurants are maintained in each hotel where the guests may procure whatever they choose in 
the way of food. 

NEW YORK HOTELS. 



NAME 



Hotel Astor 

Hotel Belmont 

Knickerbocker 

Waldorf-Astoria 

The Majestic 

Dunlop 

Hoffman House .... 

Holland House 

Fifth Avenue Hotel. 

Hotel Victoria 

The Broztell 

The Lucerne 

Hotel Webster 

The Breslin 

Hotel Marlborough. . 

Hotel Empire 

Herald Square Hotel 

Hotel Navarre 

Hotel Marseilles .... 
Hotel Woodstock . . . 

Hotel St. Denis 

The Martinique 

Gerard Hotel 

The Lucerne 

New Grand Hotel . . 

Hotel Markwell 

Astor House 

Aberdeen 

Gilsey House 

Herald Square Hotel 

Hotel Albert 

Ashland Hotel 

Broadway Central . . 

Hotel Longacre 

Hotel Cadillac 



COST OF ROOM 



50 
50 
50 
■50 
50 
50 
.00 
.00 
.00 
.00 
.00 
.00 
.00 
•SO 
•50 
•50 
50 
50 
50 
50 
50 
50 
■50 
■50 
5° 
■ 50 
.00 
00 
00 
.00 
.00 
.00 
00 
00 
00 



per day 
per day 
per day 
per day 
per day 
per day 
per day 
per day 
per day 
per day 
per day 
per day 
per day 
per day 
per day 
per day 
per day 
per day 
per day 
per day 
per day 
per day 
per day 
per day 
per day 
per day 
per day 
per day 
per day 
per day 
per day 
per day 
per day 
per day 
per day 



and up, 
and up, 
and up, 
and up, 
and up, 
and up, 
and up, 
and up, 
and up, 
and up, 
and up, 
and up, 
and up, 
and up, 
and up, 
and up, 
and up, 
and up, 
and up, 
and up, 
and up, 
and up, 
and up, 
and up, 
and up, 
and up, 
and up, 
and up, 
and up, 
and up, 
and up, 
and up, 
and up, 
and up, 
and up. 



European 
European 
European 
European 
European 
European 
European 
European 
European 
European 
European 
European 
European 
European 
European 
European 
European 
European 
European 
European 
European 
European 
European 
European 
European 
European 
European 
European 
European 
European 
European 
European 
European 
European 
European 



Plan. 

Plan 

Plan 

Plan 

Plan. 

Plan. 

Plan. 

Plan, 

Plan 

Plan 

Plan 

Plan 

Plan 

Plan 

Plan 

Plan 

Plan 

Plan 

Plan 

Plan 

Plan 

Plan 

Plan 

Plan 

Plan 

Plan 

Plan 

Plan 

Plan 

Plan 

Plan, 

Plan 

Plan, 

Plan. 

Plan. 



ADDRESS 



Times (Long Acre) Square. 

Forty-second Street and Park Avenue. 

Forty-second Street and Broadway. 

Fifth Avenue, 33d and 34th Streets. 

Central Park West, 71st and 72d Sts. 

149 West 44th Street. 

Broadway and" 25th Street. 

Fifth Avenue and 30th Street. 

Madison Square. 

Fifth Avenue and Broadway. 

Fifth Avenue and 27th Street. 

201 West 79th Street. 

40 West 45th Street. 

Broadway and 29th Street. 

Broadway, 36th and 37th Sts. 

Broadway and 63d Street. 

34th Street, just west of Broadway. 

38th Street and Seventh Avenue. 

Broadway, 66th to 67th Streets. 

127-135 West 43d Street. 

Cor. nth Street and Broadway. 

Broadway and 33d Street. 

123 West 44th Street. 

201 West 79th Street. 

Broadway and 31st Street. 

220 West 49th Street. 

Broadway and Vesey. 

32d Street and Fifth Avenue. 

Broadway and 29th Street. 

34th Street and Broadway. 

nth Street and University Place. 

Fourth Avenue and 24th Street. 

673 Broadway. 

157 West 47th Street. 

Broadway and 43d Street. 



PHILADELPHIA HOTELS. 



NAME 


COST OF ROOM 


ADDRESS 


The St. James 


$2.00 per day and up 

Si. 50 per day and up 

Si.oo per day and up 


Cor. Walnut and 13th Street. 
Cor. Walnut and 13th Street. 
107-109 S. 13th Street. 


The Edouard . . . 


Garrick Hotel 







CHICAGO HOTELS. 



NAME 


COST OF ROOM 


ADDRESS 


The Auditorium 


$1.00 per day and up 

$1.00 per day and up 

$2.00 per day and up 

$1.50 per day and up . . 


Wabash Avenue. 


Great Northern . 


Dearborn Street. 


Wellington 

Virginia 

Briggs House 


Rush and Ohio Streets. 




Cor. Randolph Street and Fifth Avenue 





258 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



WASHINGTON, D. C, HOTELS. 



NAME 


COST OF ROOM 


ADDRESS 


Ebbitt House 


$2.50 per day and up 




The New Willard 


Select Hotel 


Pennsylvania Avenue, 14th Street. 


Thp Shnrpham 


High Class 


Riggs' House 

The Grafton 

The St. James 


$1.1^0 per day and up 


Near Treasury Building. 

Connecticut Avenue. 

Cor. Pennsylvania Avenue and 6th Street. 


$3.00 per day, board and room 

Si.oo per day and up 





LOS ANGELES HOTELS. 



NAME 


COST OF ROOM 


ADDRESS 

J 


The Angelus Hotel 

HoUenbeck 

Hotel Rosslyn 


Amerir.an and K^iroppjin Plan 


4th and Spring Street. 1 
Cor. Spring and 2d Street. 1 
Main Street. | 


European Plan Only 

So. 75 up 


Hotel Alexandria 

Hotel Lexington 


European Plan 

Si.oo per day and up 


Sth Street. 


Bellevue Terrace 


$2. so per day and up 












SAN FRANCISCO HOTELS. 



NAME 

St. Francis 

Majestic 

The Fairmount . . . 



COST OF ROOM 



$2.00 per day and up. 
Si .50 per day and up. 
S3 .00 per day and up. 



ADDRESS 



Union Square. 
Sutter & Gough. 
Nob Hill. 



PORTLAND' HOTELS. 



NAME 


COST OF ROOM 


ADDRESS 


The Portland 


Si.oo per day and up, European land 

Ampriran P'an 




Hotel Perkins . ... 


$1.00 per day and up 




Imperial Hotel 

The Hobart Curtis 


Si.oo per day and up 




S2.50 per day, Amer can Plan 


14th and Jefferson Streets. 



SEATTLE HOTELS. 



NAME 


COST OF ROOM 


ADDRESS 


Hotel Buttler 


Si.oo to S5.00 per day 

American Plan, S3. European, Si . . . . 
Si. 50 per day and up 






4th and Madison. 






Hotel Seattle 


Si.oo per day and up 









HONOLULU HOTELS. 



NAME 


COST ROOM 


ADDRESS 


Alexander Young 

Royal Hawaiian Hotel 

Moana Hotel . 


Board and room about S3 per day 

Board and room about S3 per day 

Board and room about S3 per day 


Centrally located. 
Centrally located. 
Centrally located. 







KOBE, JAPAN, HOTELS. 



NAME 


COST BOARD AND ROOM 


ADDRESS 


The Oriental 


From Yen. 6 per day and up 

From Yen. 4 per day and up 


Kobe's Bund, 




Near Landing. 





259 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 
YOKOHAMA, JAPAN, HOTELS. 



NAME 


COST BOARD AND ROOM 


ADDRESS 


The Grand Hotel 


From Yen. 5 per day and up . ... 


Yokohama Bund. 


The Oriental Palace 

The Club Hotel 


From Yen. 6 per day and up 

From Yen. 4 per day and up 


Yokohama Bund. 
Yokohama Bund. 


The Phoenix Hotel 


An Excellent Family Hotel 


On Main Street. 



SHANGHAI, CHINA, HOTELS. 



NAME 


COST OF ROOM AND BOARD 


ADDRESS 


The Astor House 


From 6 Dollars Mexican up 

From 6 Dollars Mexican up 

From 4 Dollars Mexican up 

From 4 Dollars Mexican up 

First-Class resort. Meals 


Whangpoo Road. 

Cor. Bund and Nanking Road. 

Bubbling Well Road. 

French Settlement. 

End of Bubbling Well Road. 


The Palace Hotel 


Hotel Metropole 

The Hotel des Colonies 

The St. George's Hotel 



HONGKONG HOTELS. 



NAME 


COST BOARD AND ROOM 


ADDRESS 


The King Edward 

The Connaught 

The Peak Hotel 

The Carlton Hotels 


From 6 Mexican Dollars up 

From 4 Mexican Dollars up 

From 6 Mexican Dollars up 

From 3 Mexican Dollars up 


De Voex Road. 
Queens Road Central. 
Victoria Gap Peak. 
Ice House Street. 



SINGAPORE, STRAITS SETTLEMENTS. HOTELS. 



NAME 


COST, BOARD AND ROOM 


ADDRESS 


Raffle's Hotel 


From 6 Mexican Dollars up 

From 6 Mexican Dollars up 

From 4 Mexican Dollars up 

From 4 Mexican Dollars up 

From 4 Mexican Dollars up 


Facing the Harbor. 
Facing the Promenade. 
Runners at Steamers. 
77 Bras Basah Road. 
Tanjong Katong. 


Hotel de Europe 


Hotel de la Paix 

Caledonian Hotel 

The Sea View Hotel 



BATAVIA, ISLAND OF JAVA, HOTELS. 



NAME 


COST, BOARD AND ROOM 


ADDRESS 


Hotel des Indies 

Hotel der Nederlanden 

Grand Hotel de Java 


6 to 10 Guilders per day 

6 to 10 Guilders per day 

6 to 10 Guilders per day 


Weltevreden. 
Weltevreden. 
Weltevreden. 



INDIA HOTELS. 



CITY 


NAME 


COST, ROOM AND BOARD 


ADDRESS 


Rangoon 


Strand Hotel 

Royal Hotel 

Great Eastern 

Continental 

The Grand 

The Apollo 

Taj Mahal 

Galle Face 

The Bristol 




Facing the River. 
Centrally located. 
Facing Government House. 
Facing Maidan 
Facing Maidan. 
Centrally located. 
Facing the Sea. 
Facing the Sea. 
Near the landing. 


Rangoon 


8 Rupees per day 


Calcutta 


8 Rupees per day and up 

8 Rupees per day and up 

8 Rupees per day and up 

7 Rupees per day and up 


Calcutta 

Calcutta 

Bombay 


Bombay 


Colombo 


10 Rupees per day 


Colombo 









260 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



PENANG, ISLAND OF PENANG, HOTELS. 



NAME 


COST, BOARD AND ROOM 


ADDRESS 


Eastern and Oriental 

The International 


6 Mexican Dollars, up 

6 Mexican Dollars, up 


Facing the Sea. 
No. 2 Leith Street. 



CAIRO, EGYPT, HOTELS. 



NAME 


COST, ROOM AND BOARD 


ADDRESS 


Shepherd's Hotel 

Ghezireh Palace 


40 Piastres per day and up 

40 Piastres per day and up 

40 Piastres per day and up 


Sharia Kamel Street. 
Centrally located. 


Continental 


Centrally located. 



EUROPEAN HOTELS. 



CITY 


NAME 


COST ROOM 


ADDRESS 


Naples 

Naples 

Naples 

Naples 

Naples 

Paris 


Grand Hotel Vesuve 

Parker's Hotel 

Hotel Continental . 
The Grand Hotel . . 
Santa Lucia Hotel . 
Grand Hotel. ...... 

Mirabeau 

Hotel du Louvre. . . 
Hotel Terminus. . . 

Palais d'Orsay 

Hotel de Bade 

Elysee Palace 

Hotel Montana. . . . 


6 Francs per day, up 


Facing the Gulf. 




On the Bluff. 


4 Francs per day, up 

4 Francs per day, up 

4 Francs per day and up 

6 Francs per day and up 

6 Francs per day and up 

6 Francs per day and up 

6 Francs per day and up 

6 Francs per day and up 

6 Francs per day and up 

6 Francs per day and up 

6 Francs per day and up 


Quai Partenope. 
Centrally located. 
Facing the Sea. 
Boulevard des Capucincs. 
Place de I'Opera. 
Avenue de L'Opera. 
Gare St. Lazare. 
Quai d'Orsay. 
32 Boulevard des Italiens. 
Champs Elysees. 
II Rue de I'Echelie. 


Paris 

Paris 

Paris 

Paris 

Paris 

Paris 

Paris 



LONDON, ENGLAND, HOTELS. 



NAME 


COST FOR ROOM 


ADDRESS 


Hotel Cecil 




On the Strand. 


The Grand Hotel 




Trafalgar Square, W. C. 
Trafalgar Square, W. C. 


Hotel Metropole . . 


6 Shillings up 


Hotel Victoria 




Charing Cross Hotel 

Hotel Great Central 


6 Shillings up 


On the Strand. 




Centrally located. 







DISTANCES AND MAIL TIME TO FOREIGN CITIES FROM THE CITY OF NEW 

YORK. 



By Postal Route to — 



Adelaide, via San Francicso 

Alexandria, via London 

Amsterdam, via London 

Antwerp, viu London 

Athens, via London 

Bahia, Brazil 

Bangkok, Siam, via San Francisco 

Bangkok, Siam, via London 

Batavia, Java, via London 

Berlin 

Bombay, via London 

Bremen 

Buenos Ayres 

Calcutta, via London 

Cape Town, via London 

Constantinople, via London 

Florence, via London 

Glasgow 

Grevtown, via New Orleans 

Halifax. N. S 

Hamburg 



MUes 


Days 


12.84s 


34 


6,150 


13 


3.98s 


9 


4,000 


9 


5,655 


12 


5.870 


21 


12,990 


43 


13,125 


41 


12,800 


34 


4.385 


9 


9.765 


24 


4.235 


8 


8,045 


29 


IT, 120 


26 


II. 24s 


27 


5.810 


II 


4,800 


10 


3.375 


10 


2,810 


7 


64s 


2 


4.820 


9 



By Postal Route to- 



Havana 

Hong Kong, via San Francisco 
Honolulu, z'ia San Francisco. . , 

Liverpool 

London 

Madrid, via London 

Melbourne, via San Francisco, 

Mexico City (railroad) 

Panama 

Paris 

Rio de Janeiro 

Rome, via London 

Rotterdam, via London 

St. Petersburg, via London. . . 
Shanghai, z'ia San Francisco. . 

Shanghai, via London 

Stockholm, via London 

Sydney, via San Francisco .... 

Valparaiso, via Panama 

Vienna 

Yokohama, via San Francisco . 



1.366 

10,590 
5.645 
3.540 
3.740 
4.925 

12,265 
3.750 
2.355 
4,020 
6,204 
5.030 
3.035 
S.370 
9,920 

14.745 
4.975 

11.750 
5. 910 
4.740 
7.348 



Days 



3 
25 
13 



32 

5 
7 
8 
23 
9 
9 



26 

37 



261 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



DISTANCES BETWEEN EUROPEAN CITIES. 



Liverpool 


vONDON 
202 


Paris 


480 


2S7 


Ml 


IDRID 
415 
IIIQ 


908 
.323 

21 I 


1397 


1 195 


Li 


SBON 


181 


1610 


TRAVELINGJDISTANCES Ant 


WERP 


■S30 


472 


207 


BETWEEN THE Hamburg 


412 


1804 


1495 


587 


859 


657 


PRINCIPAL CITIES IN EUROPE, Bi 


;rlin 


178 


497 


1889 


1582 


674 


948 


746 


IN MILES, B 


ERNE 


611 

837 


678 


460 


1602 


1 183 


359 

Soo 
849 
582 
907 
863 


848 

989 

1182 

970 

1397 

1352 


646 


T 


URIN 


297 


839 


719 


1506 


1073 


787 


Vi 


ENNA 


720 


355 


427 


605 


727 


2157 


1668 


980 


Ml 


NICH 


266 


470 


29s 


401 
1048 


579 
1 180 


522 
1033 


1897 
1746 


1477 

1223 


768 


I 


^OME 


647 


840 
370 


414 


639 


1 195 


Trieste 

1 


510 


487 


391 


533 


888 


1066 1009 


1828 I416 


1 150 


Wa 


ISAW 


806 


1276 


702 


436 


1156 


1021 


398| 576] 89s 


2S93;i92S 


1067 


1557 


135s 


CoNSTANTIN 


OPLF. 


1205 


1725 


2138 


1564 


1298 


2018 


1883 


1699J1903J202S 


334512718 


1899 


2232 


2030 


Odessa 


363I 842 


1330 


iSoo 1226 


960 


1680 


1545 


i24o'i4i8|l737 
1209I13871 1706 
1091 1269 1588 
6S5I s8o| 993 


3117,2625 
34T4 2904 
3286'2874 
2384^1972 


1760 
1843 
1699 


2119 

2117 
1976 


I9I7 


Mo 


5COw| 950 
406 1356 
836 1510 


1339 


811 


1617 


2087I1513 


1247 


1967 


1832 


I9IS 


St. Petersburg 


1733 


693 


1769 2239 


1395 


3 99 


2119 


1714 


1774 


Stockholm 430 


2408 


io82'll7l,T73r 


1084 


IIIO 

697 


1337 


1176 


1219 


14. I 


1289 


COPSNHAGE.V 416 846 


12521510 


I51O 


668 


1067 


13 18 


671 


1047 


885 


270 


208 


620 


2012 


j6oo 


812 


J181 


079 



CABLE RATES IN SHANGHAI AFTER APRIL i, 1907, VIA EASTERN. 



TO 


Via Eastern. 


TO 


Via AtlanticjVia Pacific 




S cts. 


S cts. 


S cts. 


EUROPE 

All Countries via Suez 

Russia in Europe and Caucasus 

via Teheran. . 


■ 2 20 

I 75 
I 90 

I 30 

I 05 
1 15 

I GO 

I 35 
I 55 
I 20 
I 30 

1 25 

2 00 
I 70 
75 

95 

1 95 
I "5 
I 95 
I 20 
I 25 
I 80 

1 30 

2 40 
2 10 


AMERICA 
North 

California Sanfrancisco. . 

California, Other Places 


3 55 
3 55 
3 40 
3 45 
3 30 

3 30 
3 40 
3 30 
3 55 
3 40 

2 30 

3 55 

4 90 

5 70 
4 30 


2 20 
2 30 
2 45 
2 40 
2 45 

2 45 
2 45 
2 55 
2 30 
2 45 
2 55 
2 30 


ASIA 

Annam via Cape St. James 

British North Borneo — Labuan 

British North Borneo — Other Places 

Cochina China 

Dutch Indies — Java 

Dutch Indies — Other Places 

India — India 

India — Burmah 


Illinois 

Massachusetts 

Newyork, Newyork City, Brooklyn, 

Yonkers, etc 

Newyork, Other Places 

Ontario 

Oregon 

Pennsylvania 

Quebec 




South 

Arj^entine, Paraguay, and Uruguay. . . 








4 30 
4 80 
3 95 




Philippines — Other Islands (Visavas) 




Russia, 1st Region, via Teheran 




Russia, 2d Region, via Teheran 




Straits Settlements 

Siam, via Cape St. James 

Siam, via Moulmein 

Tonquin, via Cape St. James 

Turkey in Asia via Suez 

Turkey in Asia via Fao 


In telegrams to America, which the send 
"via Pacific," the insertion of the route i 
grams will be sent by that route, unless spec 


;r desires to b 
unnecessar\ 
'ally marked 


e forwarded 
, as all tele- 
jia Atlantic. 



POPULATION OF THE EARTH BY CONTINENTS. 



Continental Divisions. 


Area in Square Miles. 


Number of Inhabitants. 


Number per Square Mile. 


Africa 


11,514,000 


127,000,000 


11.00 


North America 


6,446,000 


89,250.000 


13.80 


South America 


6,837,000 


36,420,000 


5.30 


Asia 


14,710,000 


850,000,000 


57.00 


Australasia 


3,288.000 


4.730.000 


r.40 






380,000,000 


106.90 


Polar ReRion 


4,888.800 


300,000 


0.07 



262 



From ccident to Orient and Around the World 
VALUE OF FOREIGN COINS IN UNITED STATES MONEY. 



Country. 



Standard 



Monetary Unit. 



Value in 

U. S. Gold 

Dollar. 



Coins. 



Argent. R. . . 

Austria-H. . . 
Belgium . . . 
Bolivia . . . 
Brazil .... 
Canada . . . 
Cent. Am . . 
Chile 

China. . . . 

Colombia . . 
Costa Rica . . 

Denmark . . 
Ecuador . . . 

Egypt. . . . 

France. . . . 
Germany.. . . 
Great Britain. 

Greece 

Hayti 

India 

Italy .... 
Japan .... 
Mexico . . . 

Netherlands . . 
Newfoundland 
Norway. . . . 
Panama . . . 

Peru .... 
Portugal. . . 
Russia 

Spain 

Sweden. . . . 
Switzerland. . 
Turkey . . . . 
Uruguay. . . 
Venezuela. . . . 



Gold. . 

Gold. . 
Gold. . 
Silver.. 
Gold. . 
Gold. . 
Silver.. 
Gold. . 



Silver. 

Gold. 
Gold. 

Gold. 
Gold. 
Gold. 

Gold. 
Gold. 
Gold. 
Gold. 
Gold. 
Gold. 
Gold. 
Gold. 
Gold. 

Gold. 
Gold. 
Gold. 
Gold. 

Gold. 
Gold. 
Gold. 

Gold. 
Gold. 
Gold. 
Gold. 
Gold. 
Gold. 



Peso $0.96,5 



Crown. . . 
Franc . . 
Boliviano 
Milreis.. . 
Dollar. . 
Pesof.. . 
Peso. . . 



Tael.. 

Dollar. 
Colon. 



f Shanghai. 
\ Haikwan. 
[ Canton . 



Crown 

Sucre 

Pound ( 1 00 piasters) 

Franc 

Mark 

Pound sterling. . . 

Drachma 

Gourde 

Pound sterling§. . 

Lira 

Yen 

Peso^ 



Florin . 
Dollar. 
Crown. 
Balboa. 



Libra. . 
Milreis. 
Ruble . 



Peseta. , 
Crown. . . 
Franc . 
Piaster. . 
Peso. . 
Bolivar . . 



I 



.20,3 
■ 19,3 
■48,5 
•54,6 
1. 00 
■48,5 
•36,5 

.72,6 

||.8o,8 

•79,2 
1. 00 

•46,5 

.26,8 

•48,7 

4^94,3 

• 19,3 
.23,8 

4.86,61. 

•19,3 

•96,5 
4.86,6 1 . 

• 19,3 
•49,8 
•49,8 

.40,2 
1.01,4 

.26,8 
1.00,0 

4.86,61. 
1.08 

•51,5 

•19,3 
.26,8 

• 19,3 

.04,4 

1-03,4 
•19,3 



Gold: argentine ($4.82,4) and i^ argentine. Silver: 

peso and divisions. 
Gold: 10 and 20 crowns. Silver: i and 5 crowns. 
Gold: 10 and 20 francs. Silver: 5 francs. 
Silver : boliviano and divisions. 
Gold: 5, 10, and 20 milreis. Silver: lo, i and 2 milreis. 

Silver: peso and divisions. 

Gold: escudo ($1.82,5), doubloon ($3.65), and condor 
($7.30). Silver : peso and divisions. 



Gold : condor ($9.64,7) and double-condor. Silver : peso 
Gold: 2, 5, 10 and 20 colons ($9.30,7). Silver: 5, 10, 25 

and 50 centimos. 
Gold: 10 and 20 crowns. 

Gold: 10 sucres ($4.86,65). Silver: sucre and divisions. 
Gold: pound (100 piasters), 5, 10, 20 and 50 piasters. 

Silver: i, 2, 5, 10 and 20 piasters. 
Gold: 5, 10, 20, 50 and 100 frs. Silver 5 frs. 
Gold: 5, 10 and 20 marks. 

Gold: sovereign (pound sterling) and i^ sovereign. 
Gold: 5, 10, 20, 50 and 100 drachmas. Silver: 5 drachmas. 
Gold: I, 2,5andio gourdes. Silver: gourde and divisions. 
Gold: sov. ($4.86,65). Silver: rupee and divisions. 
Gold: 5, 10, 20, 50 and 100 lire. Silver: 5 lire. 
Gold: I, 2, 5, 10 and 20 yen. Silver: 10, 20 and 50 sen. 
Gold: 5 and 10 pesos. Silver: dollar (or peso)** and 

divisions. 
Gold: 10 florins. Silver: I2, i and 2)2 florins. 
Gold: 2 dollars ($2.02,7). 
Gold: 10 and 20 crowns. 
Gold: I, 2I0, 5, 10 and 20 balboas. Silver: peso and 

divisions. 
Gold : 1 2 and i libra. Silver : sol and divisions. 
Gold: I, 2, 5 and 10 milreis. 
Gold: 5, 7I0, ID and 15 rubles. Silver: 5, 10, 15, 20, 25, 

50 and 100 copeks. 
Gold : 25 pesetas. Silver : 5 pesetas. 
Gold: 10 and 20 crowns. 

Gold: 5, 10, 20, 50 and 100 francs. Silver: 5 francs. 
Gold: 25, 50, 100, 250 and 500 piasters. 
Gold: peso. Silver: peso and divisions. 
Gold: 5, 10, 20, 50 and 100 bolivars. Silver: 5 bolivars. 



TABLE SHOWING THE VALUE OF FOREIGN COINS IN AMERICAN MONEY. 





British £ 


German 


French Franc, 


Cliinese Tael 


Dutch 


Jap. Yen, 


Russian 


Austrian 




Sterling. 


Mark. 


Italian Lira. 


(Haikwan.) 


Florin. 


Mex. Peso. 


Gold Ruble. 


Crown. 


I 


$4.86,61., 


$0.23,8 


$0.19,3 


$0.80,8 


$0.40,2 


$0.49,8 


$0.51,5 


$0.20,3 


2 


9^73,3 


0.47,6 


0.38,6 


1.61,6 


0.80,4 


0.99,6 


1-03 


0.40,6 


3 


I4^59,9i2 


0.71,4 


0-57,9 


2.42,4 


1.20,6 


1.49,4 


1-54,5 


0.60,9 


4 


19.46,6 


0.95,2 


0-77,2 


3-23,2 


J. 60,8 


1-99,2 


2.06 


0.81,2 


5 


24^33,2 12 


1. 19 


0.96,5 


4.04,0 


2.01 


2-49 


2-57,5 


1.01,5 


6 


29.19,9 


1.42,8 


1.15,8 


4.84,8 


2.41,2 


2.98,8 


3-09 


1.21,8 


7 


34^06,51 2 


1.66,6 


1-35,1 


5-65,6 


2.81,4 


3-48,6 


3-60,5 


1.42,1 


8 


38.93,2 


1.90,4 


1-54,4 


6.46,4 


3.2r,6 


3-98,4 


4.12 


1.62,4 


9 


43-79,812 


2.14,2 


1-73,7 


7.27,2 


3-61,8 


4.48,2 


4-63,5 


1.82,7 


10 


48.66,5 


2.38I 


1-931 


8.08,0 


4.02 


4.98,0 


5-15 


2.03 


20 


97^33 


4-76) 


3-86 


16.16,0 


8.04 


9.96,0 


10.30 


4.06 


30 


145-99,5 


7.14 


5-79 


24.24,0 


12.06 


14.94,0 


15-45 


6.09 


40 


194.66 


9-52' 
11.90, 


7.72 


32.32,0 


16.08 


19.92,0 


20,60 


8.12 


50 


243-32,5 


9-65 


40.40,0 


20.10 


24.90,0 


25-75 


10.15 


100 


486.65 


23.80 


19.30. 


80.80,0 


40.20 


49.80,0 


51-50 


20.30 



263 



From Occident to Orient and Around the World 



POPULATION OF LARGEST CITIES OF THE EARTH 



Cities. 



London* 

New York 

Paris 

Berlin 

Tokio, Japan 

Chicago 

Vienna 

Canton 

Peking- 

St. Petersburg 

Philadelphia 

Calcuttat 

Constantinople 

Moscow 

Buenos Ayres 

Osaka 

Hamburg. -. 

Bombay 

Warsaw , 

Rio de Janeiro 

Glasgow 

Buda-Pesth 

Liverpool . . 

Bangkok 

Brusselsf 

Boston 

St. Louis 

Cairo. Egypt 

Naples 

Amsterdam 

Manchester, England. 

Madrid 

Barcelona 

Birmingham, England, 

Madras 

Baltimore 

Munich 

Melbournef 

Milan 

Marseilles 

Sydneyt 

Copenhagent 

Rome 

Lyons 

Leipzig 

Odessa 

Haidrabadt 

Leeds 

Breslau 

Dresden 

Cleveland 

Sheffield 

Kioto 

Shanghai 

Buffalo 

Cologne 

Rotterdam 

Lisbon 

Lodz 

Belfast 

Mexico City 

San Francisco 

Turin 

Santiago, Chile 

Bristol, England 

Yokohama 

Cincinnati 

Pittsburgh 

Alexandria 

Kiev 

Stockholm 

Edinburgh 

Palermo 

Antwerp 

Dublin 

Frankfort-on-Main. . . . 

Nagoya 

New Orleans 

Detroit 

Milwaukee 

Kobe, Japan 

Hong Kong 

Newark 



Cen- 
sus 
Year. 



1 90 1 
1905 
190 r 
1905 
1003 
I poo 
1901 
est. 
est. 
1897 
1900 
190 1 
est. 
1897 
1905 
1903 
1905 
igoi 
1897 
1900 
1901 
1 90 1 
1901 
est. 
1905 
1905 
1900 
1897 
1901 
1905 
1901 
1900 
1900 
1901 
1901 
1900 
1900 
1901 
1901 
1901 
1901 
1901 
1901 
1901 
1900 
1897 
1901 
1901 
1900 
1900 
1900 
1901 
1903 
est. 
1905 
1900 
1905 
1900 
1897 
1901 
1900 
1900 
1901 
1904 
1901 
1903 
1900 
1900 
1897 
1897 
1905 
igoi 
1901 
1905 
1901 

IQOO 
1903 
1900 
1900 

igoo 
1903 
1901 
1905 



Popula 
tion. 



4.536,541 
4,014,304 
2,714,068 
2,033.900 
1,318.855 
1.698,575 
1,674,957 
1,600,000 
1,600,000 
1.373.390 
1,293,697 
1,125,400 
1,125.000 
1,092,360 
1.000,250 
995.945 
872.028I 
776,006 
756.426 
750.000 
735.906 
732,322 
684,947 
600,000 
598,599 
595.083 
575.238 
570,062 
563.541 
551.415 
543.969 
539.83s 
533.090 
522,082 
509,346 
50S.957 
499.932 
496,079 
491,460 
491,161 
481,830 
476,806 
462.783 
459.099 
456.142 
449,675 
448,466 
628,953 
422.709 
396,146 
381,768 
380.717 
380.568 
380,000 
376.618 
372.529 
370,390 
356,009 
351.570 
349,180 
344.721 
342.782 
335.656 
334.538 
328,842 
326,035 
325,902 
321,616 
319,766 
3 19,000 
317.694 
316,479 
309,604 
291.949 
290,638 
288,989 
288,639 
287,104 
285,704 
285,315 
285,002 
283,90s 
2S3.2S9 



Cities. 



Teheran 

Bradford , 

i Washington 

Bucharest 

Montevideo 

'Havana 

Montreal 

I West Ham, England. . . . 

Lucknow 

Nuremburg 

Bordeaux 

Riga 

iTunis 

Hull 

Nottingham 

Hanover 

Rangoon 

Genoa 

The Hague 

Jersey City 

Magdeburg 

Christiania 

Damascus 

Salford 

Manila 

Newcastle . 

Dusseldorf 

Valencia 

Leicester 

Stettin 

Lille 

Benares 

Delhi 

Toronto 

Chemnitz 

Florence 

Louisville 

Lahore 

Minneapolis 

Prague 

Smyrna 

Providence 

Kharkov 

Cawnpore 

Seoul, Korea 

Konigsberg 

Charlottenburg, Prussia. 
Portsmouth, England. . . 

Agra 

Ahmadabad 

Mandelay 

Rochester 

Tabriz 

Stuttgart 

Zurich 

Bahia 

Allahabad 

Indianapolis 

Liege 

Bolton 

Oporto 

Cardiff 

Kansas City, Mo 

Adelaidef. 

Bremen 

St. Paul 

Vilna 

Ghent 

A.mritsar 

Altona, Germany 

Dundee 

Jaipur . . . 

Lemberg 

Bangalore 

Johannesburg 

Colombo, Ceylon 

Howrah 

Elberfeld 

Halle-on-Salle 

Poona 

Nagasaki 

Bologna 

Venice 



Cen- 
sus 
Year. 



est. 
1901 
1900 
I goo 
1902 
1902 
190 1 
1 90 1 
1901 
1900 
1901 
1897 
est. 
igoi 
1901 
1900 
1901 
rgor 
1905 
1905 
1900 
igoo 
est. 
1901 
1904 
igoi 
igoo 
1900 
1901 
1900 
1901 
1901 
igoi 
igoi 
rgoo 
igoi 
1900 
1901 
1900 
igoi 
est. 
1905 
i8g7 
igoi 
igo2 
1900 
1900 
1901 
igoi 
igoi 
1901 
1905 



1900 
1904 
i8go 
igoi 
igoo 
1905 
igoi 
1900 
1901 
igoo 
igoi 
igoo 
igoo 
i8g7 
1905 
igoi 
igoo 
1901 
1901 
1901 
igoi 
1904 
1901 
1901 
1900 
1900 
1901 
1903 
igoi 
1901 



Popula 
tion. 



Cities. 



280,000 
279,809 
278,718 
276,178 
276,084 
275,000 
267.730 
267,308 
264,049 
261,081 
257.638 
256,197 
250,000 
240,618 
239.753 
235.649 
234.881 
234.710 
234.459 
232, 6gg 
229,667 
227,626 
225,000 
220,956 
219,928 
214,803 
213,711 
213.530 
211.574 
210.702 
210,696 
209,331 
208.575 
208,040' 
206,913] 
205,589; 
204,731 
202,964 

202,7lSj 

201,5891 
201,0001 

198,635! 
197.4051 
I97.170I 

196,646! 

189,483 
189,305 

189,160 

188,022 
185.889 

i83,8i6j 
181,612! 
180,000 
176.699 
175.033 
174.412 
172.032 
169,164 
16S.532 
168,205 
167.955 
164.420I 
163.752! 
163,430! 
163,297, 
163,065' 
162,633; 
162,4821 
162, 42g 
16 1, 50 1 1 
160,871' 
160.167 
159. S77! 
150.046, 
158.580I 
158,228 
157.594, 
156,9661 
156,609; 
153.320! 
153.295; 
152,009! 
151,840 



Strasburg 

Toulouse 

Messina 

Catania 

Seville 

Soerabaya, Java. .. 

Sunderland 

St. Etienne 

Bagdad 

Valparaiso 

Aberdeen 

Kazan 

Saratvo 

Dortmund 

Roubaix 

Barmen 

Manheim 

Dantzig 

Fez, Morocco 

Algierst 

Gratz 

Oldham. England. . 
Yekaterinoslav .... 

Aachen 

Patna 

Trieste 

Croydon. England. , 

Denver 

Goteborg 

Nantes 

Toledo. Ohio 

Bareilly 

Lima 

Havre 

Malaga 

Allegheny 

Brunswick 

Worcester, Mass . . . 

Nagpur 

Blackburn 

Aleppo 

Kishinev 

Columbus 

Basle 

Brighton, England . 

Srinagar 

Rosario. Argentina. 

Astrakhan 

Heroshima 

Bogota 

Rostov-on-Don. . . . 

Surat 

Essen, Germany . . . 

Beirut 

Meerut 

Syracuse 

Posen 

Rouen 

Karachi 

Batavia 

Preston 

Utrecht , 

Geneva 

Norwich, England. . 

Pernambuco 

Murcia, Spain , 

Paterson, N. J 

Athens 

Birkenhead , 

Gateshead 

Tula 

Brunn 

Reims 

New Haven 

Kiel, Germany 

Ph'mouth 

Krefeld 

Helsingfors 

Kassel. Germany. . . 

Madura 

Derby 

Fall River, Mass . . . , 
Nice. France , 



Cen- 
sus 


Popula- 
tion. 


Year. 




1900 


IS'.04I 


190 1 


I4Q.84I 


1901 


149.778 


IQOI 


140,295 


igoo 


148.3 IS 


IQOO 


146,944 


lOOI 


145.56.'! 


igoi 


146,550 


est. 


i4<;.ooo 


1904 


143.769 


1901 


143.722 


1897 


143.707 


1897 


143.431 


1900 


162.733 


1901 


142.36s 


IQOO 


141,944 


1900 


141, "3' 


1900 


140,363 


est. 


140,000 


1901 


138.709 


190 1 


138.080 


1901 


137.238 


1897 


135.532 


1900 


135.245 


1901 


134.785 


190 1 


134. '43 


190 1 


133.88s 


IQOO 


133.859 


IQ02 


133.625 


I9OI 


132.990 


1900 


131.822 


1901 


131,208 


1903 


130.233 


IQOI 


130.196 


IQOO 


130.109 


1900 


129,896 


1900 


128,226 


1 90s 


128.135 


1901 


127,734 


190 I 


127,527 


est. 


127,150 


i8q7 


125.787 


IQOO 


125,560 


IQO4 


124.392 


IQOI 


123.478 


1901 


122,618 


1903 


122.156 


1897 


121,580 


IQO3 


121,196 


1886 


120,000 


i8q7 


119,889 


IQOI 


119,306 


IQOO 


118,862 


est. 


118,800 


IQOI 


ll8,I2Q 


1905 


117,498 


1900 


117,033 


190 I 


116,316 


I9OI 


116,163 


1900 


115,887 


I9OI 


112,982 


1905 


112,796 


IQO4 


112,736 


IQOI 


111,728 


i8qo 


111,556 


IQOO 


111,539 


I9OS 


111.529 


1896 


111,486 


I9OI 


110,926 


I9OI 


109,887 


1897 


109,352 


I9OI 


109,346 


I9OI 


108,385 


1900 


108,027 


1900 


107,97 7 


I9OI 


107,309 


1900 


106.893 


1903 


106,055 


1900 


106,034 


1901 


105,984 


I9OI 


105,785 


IQOS 


105,762 


1901 


105,109 



* Population of Greater London (metropolitan and city police districts), 6,581,372. t With suburbs. 

Note. — The population of Chinese cities other than Canton, Peking and Shanghai is omitted, because reports respecting it are utterly 
untrustworthy. There are forty or more Chinese cities whose inhabitants are numbered by rvimor at from 200.000 to i. 000. 000 each, but no 
official censuses have ever been taken ; and setting aside consideration of the Oriental tendency to exaggeration, there is reason to believe that 
the estimates of population in many instances covered districts of country bearing the same names as the cities, instead of definite municipali- 
ties. 



264 



^^ 




^^j^ 






^ 


Vl\ 


fW 




^ 


»^^^-<\^^ 


^H-jS-, 


^•: 1^-©-^^^^^^^ 


^.^^L^^-a 


COOKS imm 


AROUND THE 


WORLD 



140 Oftices in All Parts of the World 

COOK'S TOURS 

ESTABLISHED 1841 

TOURS AROUND THE WORLD have been 
arranged annually since 1872 by Thos. Cook & Son, for 
limited select parties of tourists, in addition to planning 
and managing tours for thousands of individual travellers. 
These long-existing and extensive business relations in the 
East, the standing and wide experience so obtained, and 
our numerous offices, enable us to offer superior service and 
advantages to our patrons. 

THE ROUTES of these tours embrace all the places 
and sights of real interest, having been developed and ex- 
tended with the growth of facilities for comfortable and 
safe travel in the East. Six months leisurelv travel de luxe 

is devoted to visiting Honolulu, Japan, China, the Straits Settlements, Ceylon and Southern 
India, Burma, India an J Egypt. Some parties travel eastward, covering this route in the 
reverse direction. Extensions can be arranged to Java, Siam and other places of interest 
where desired. The Arrangements are of the highest possible class throughout, carried out 
with the utmost liberahty, privacy, and regard for the individual tastes of the members. 

EGYPT AND HOLY LAND. 

Thos. Cook & Sox own a large fleet of 
commodious and luxurious passenger 
steamers on the Nile, making sailings 
every few days during the season from 
Cairo to the First and Second Cataract; 
also a number of small steamers for 
charter to families and private parties, 
many specially built Dahabeahs, etc. 
In the Holy Land many offices and an 
immense equipment are maintained. 
Associated parties are arranged annual- 
ly from November to February. 

EUROPE. Tourist Parties are 
arranged all the year round for visiting 
Europe, covering itineraries appropri- 
ate to the season. Tickets for individ- 
wiTH ■■COOK" IN INDIA ual travel everywhere. 




SOUTH AMERICA, THE WEST INDIES. BERMUDA and ALL SEASON RESORTS. Special facilities 
for associated and independent travel are ofEered \>y THOS. COOK & SON. 

THOS. COOK ^ SON 



NEW YORK 



BOSTON 



Athens. Place de la Constitution 
Beyrout, near Hotel d'Orient 
Bombay, 13 Esplanade Road 
Calcutta, g Old Court House Street 



PHILADELPHIA 

ORtENTAI. OFFICES 



Colombo. Victoria Arcade. York Street 
CoxsTAN'TLN'OPLE, 12 Rue Cabristan 
Haifa, near Hotel Carmel 
Hong Kong. i6 Desvceux Road 



CHICAGO 



CHIEF OFFICE, LUDGATE CIRCUS, LONDON 



SAN FRANCISCO 



Jaffa, German Colony 
Jerusalem. David Street 
Rangoon. Phayre Street 
Yokohama, 14 Waier Street 



COOK'S TRAVET.ER'S CHECKS ARE GOOD ALL OVER THE WORLD. THE OLDEST, SAFEST AND BEST 



(AWAY- FROM -THE -USUAL) 
FOR 

JAPAN. TRANS-SIBERIA 
SOUTH AMERICA 

ROUND THE WORLD 



The Collver Idea 

Is as different from "the usual" as are Collver Routes from those generalh^ taken, as bv a 
consideration of minute details in improving on the usual conditions of Travel Under 
Escort all objectionable features of such travel have been eliminated with the result that 
our guests are assured 

An Exclusive Environment and an Atmosphere of Privacy 

^ Our Routes are as strikingly away from the usual as are our methods. This past year 
we added SIAM, NEW ZEALAND and AUSTRALIA to our Round-t he-World 
"repertoire," and in previous vears we were the first to announce tours including 
SOUTH INDIA, BURMA, JAVA, NORTH CHINA AND KOREA. This season we 
open up still other countries to our Round-the-World travelers, including MANCHURIA 
and SIBERIA— being the first in that field. Of course we include EGYPT, CEYLON, 
NORTH INDIA, SOUTH CHINA and JAPAN also. We have World Tours of 
from four months to a year in duration. 

^ Our charges are higher than all others simply because the difference in value is 
included — as we appeal to the discriminating traveler, who is accustomed to the best. 

In Japan 

^ We have our own office at 34 Water Street m Yokohama. The Publisher of this 
book was last in Japan in February, Nineteen Hundred Six, and Mr. Leon Collver 
established our Yokohama office in April of that year; hence this information is 
supplemental to that given on pages ^^ and 36. 

^ This office was the first Foreign Tourist Bureau in Japan. 

Ask about our original idea of Personal Escort For Independent Travelers in Japan. 

THE COLLVER TOURS COMPANY, Ltd. 

368 Boylston Street, Boston, (J. S. A. 
34 Water Street, Yokohama, Japan 

And Agencies All Around the World 



RAYMOND Sl WHITCOMB 

COMPANY 

TOURS AND TICKETS EVERYWHERE 

Authorized Agents of the Principal Railway and 

Steamship Lines, Travelers' Checks, Letters of 

Credit, Drafts, Foreign Money 

^ Personally Conducted Tours to all parts of the world 
including every traveling and hotel expense, first class 
accommodations, leisurely travel with stop-over privileges, 
the services of experienced and competent representatives, 
relieving the traveler of all details and annoyances. 

^ Special Vestibuled Trains consisting of sleeping, dining, 
library and observation cars, cross the continent without 
change and afford every facility for comfortable travel. 

^ Private Cars, adapted for families, conventions, hunting 
parties and other uses, equipped with private apartments 
with wide beds and separate toilet arrangements, kitchens 
with experienced cooks' and waiters, and embodying every 
comfort and luxury, furnished on short notice. 

^ Railroad and Steamship Tickets to all parts of the world. 
Rates quoted on application. 



RAYMOND ^ WHITCOMB COMPANY 

NEW YORK, 25 Union Square BOSTON, 306 Washington Street 

PHILADELPHIA, 1005 Chestnut Street CHICAGO, 133 East Jackson Boulevard 

PITTSBURGH. 522 Smithfield Street SAN FRANCISCO. Monadnock Building 

LONDON. S. W., 20 Cockspur Street PARIS, 3 Place de I'Opera 

Etc., Etc. 



CLARK'S TOURS 



ROUND THE WORLD 




A GIRL OF CEYLurj ^ 



A series of four exceptional tours, 
under escort, leaving New York 
annually between October and 
January, traveling either Eastward 
or Westward 

Membership limited to 12 persons 



MEDITERRANEAN AND 
THE ORIENT 



A Cruise annually in February 
by specially chartered Atlantic 
liner, visiting SPAIN, AL- 
GIERS, GREECE, TURKEY, 
THE HOLY LAND, EGYPT, 
ITALY, Etc., Etc. Duration 
seventy days 

Tours to Europe, The North 

Cape and other points at 

seasonable times 




CAIRO 



FRANK C. CLARK 

TIMES BUILDING :: :: :: :: 



NEW YORK 




AT SINGER STORES 
ALL OVER THE WORLD 



Headley 6i Farmer Co. 



NEWARK, N. J.. U. S. A. 



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MANUFACTURERS OF 



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Export Trade a Specialty Write for Our Catalogue 











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C. B. PERKINS, Traveling Representative 




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is 

OVER 
73.000,000 









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DEC 3 190'/ 



